What would you have done differently? What would/will you do on the next build?

I’ve been putting my notes together through the season as I sit in my stands (that I didn’t build) and figured everybody who’s ever built anything always has some changes they’d make on the next go round. Curious what y’all think

Make it slightly wider. 5' currently. A bit cramped with the crossbow for me in some instances.

No rectangular for me. Square, round, octagon, hexagon.

5x6 or 5/7 vs 4x6 would be my preference. Bad knees need room to stretch out.

The only blind I've ever built was out of brush. I'm pitiful with a square and skillsaw. I have observed from other blinds - either make it so tight a millipede couldn't get in, or else leave it open windows. I've been amazed by some steel frame blinds and open windows and how clean they stay. Now, if owls, caracaras, or packrats move in, just burn it. I think tower blinds are more susceptible to raptors moving in and I have packrats in one that's up on 4X4s. It has half-@#$ windows. The previous owner tried spray foam to keep packrats out. I think they eat it for added roughage.

6X6 minimum, wide skinny tinted windows, window rain guards, single pitch roof, window curtains, 150 watt solar panel on the roof, int lights and plugs for electrical needs, 6 foot minimum off the ground, insulated, heater shelf, shelves above windows, cup holders, and the list goes on. I’m starting on ours in January

Ol Thumper's got a good list going. I would add a good door to that. I used a mobile home door I got from Deerview. You'll also want some kind of pad on the floor. I used an exercise pad I picked up at Academy for cheap. It helps with chair noise if you need to roll around a little.

I would make it pentagon shaped. Here is a calculator for angles etc. https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/geometry-plane/polygon.php 4 walls with shooting windows, 5th wall for door and small window. Using 4 foot wide walls is 27 square feet and about a 5.5 foot circle on the inside

I would also build it out of 3/4 or 1" building foam and then use poor man's fiberglass as the finish. Scarf in wood for mounting windows and door.

You can also get some ideas out of this link. https://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=543143

I used some really nice windows I got at McCoys in Brownwood. They are standard size, about like the Deerview and some others. Problem is, I've found I really don't like a 10.5-12" opening. I most enjoy hunting from tripods so when I next build a box, the windows will be at least 15" tall so I don't feel like I'm sitting in a coffin.

I like full openings. I've built a few stands and this one has everything I wish all the others did. With the exception of a 12" corner the windows (deer view) go all the way around. That corner is for concealment. I can still hunt and shoot 360°. It's 5' x 5'. From one chair in the center you can shoot in any direction. If my wife happens to be along, there's still room for both of us, but 99% of the time, it's just me. Stands that are too big are difficult to see out of, and shoot from IMO.

I like a 4” shelf that is directly under or level with the bottom of the window and I will not purposely ever buy a blind that has the spring loaded window clasps…they always are popping when you don’t want them to. If you don’t know what I’m talking about, it’s a variation of the screen door window release. I also don’t like maintenance, so prefer a metal skin over something that needs painting.

I’m thinking about upgrading my my blind this off season and I’ve started looking and even considering building exactly what I want…add mine and Thumpers list and that’s pretty close to where I’m looking (less power and lights, I don’t want maintenance and that stuff eventually requires it). I want a 10-12 foot tower though with stairs, ladders are too dangerous in my mind. The lighter the better and you cannot insulate it enough in my mind.

I have too many quirks about what I like in a blind to go into at this time. I will comment on Judds shelf though. Ive seen shelves that were right at window ledge height or slightly below and I never understood that. I love shelves but to me they need to be below the window ledge about 6" or so. Two main reasons. I use shelves to rest my right elbow and side on(for a steady shot) and they need to be a little lower to make that work(for me.) Also, assuming you put anything on the shelf then it would stick up over the window ledge if it was same height. Am I missing something on the shelf height? I also like shelves up high for stuff you dont need to get to readily.
I'll edit and add on a little about blind design and shelves to be used for a steady rest. Many have used boards in various ways to help acquire a solid rest. If the blind is round, square, hex or octagon then its much easier to do this. You can run a board(2x4) from shelf to shelf to rest not only your right elbow/side on but you can pretty much lay over the board with your chest to steady your body and also have a place to support the butt of the rifle. Ill try to get a pic if anyone interested. I pull out all stops to insure an accurate shot.

We’re on the same page other than the height and mines going to be aluminum framed if I can source all the tubing I need which I have ordered but who knows how that’s going to go. If not I’ll be using 14g 1 1/2” steel

The boss likes the lights and charging options for her computer so what mama wants mama gets.

I’d probably went a touch lighter

A full height door.
The 1/2 doors are great for banging your barrel on when getting in & out.

Glass windows that fold inward and outside plywood windows that open outwards (and stay closed during the off season) is how I make mine.

Myself. I build a 4" shooting rest all the way around the window openings. Scroll up and look at the Deerview style of windows I used. No mechanical latch, they just swing up (or down if that works best) and there's a catch they provide to hold them open. Just build with about 10-12" of clearance above them so you'll room for them to nest when open. I'm certain my windows cost as much as the balance of the materials on my build but it's exactly how I wanted it. Two windows were standard, two were custom to my dimensions. Think hard about the insulation, IMO it isn't necessary and adds to the cost and makes take down and assembly difficult. I've never got cold in my blind. I just dress for it, close the window that's catching the wind. For me, I want to be able to shoot in any direction, take it down and assemble myself if I have to. This whole stand is six pieces; four walls, deck and roof that all screws together in a few minutes. It has sat on this panhandle hill in 60 mph winds.

If i could go back and change the one i built, i'd make it a little bigger. I went 4x6 and wish i would have gone to a 5x7 or even 6x8. The 4x6 works decent for two people, but when you put all your gear and a heater in it, it gets a bit cramped. Now that my 5 year old hunts with me a little more, the tight space is a little more noticeable. I have a shelf in the front and half of the back of the blind, with a sliding shelf that just sets on top of the front and back. It helps a lot for the longer shots, but is only on the right side of the blind. I'd also make the windows a little lower. I can't remember the bottom height i built it to, but it was comfortable for me. My boy on the other hand is a lot shorter and hope to get his first deer next year.

I built a tower blind a couple of years ago with 10' legs. 6' x 4' with a 2' "porch" on the door side. I mad a couple of mistakes - decided to just use plexi windows riding in a frame of corner molding. They work okay, but if I did again, I would get shop built windows of some kind. Plus, I made the window cutouts to the size of the plexi, so they are the right height from the floor, but a little short at top so I find myself having to crouch in my seat to see any distance.

By the time I bought all of the materials, I found that I could by a fabbed blind on a base for about the same money, so the last blind I built came from Krivoman. This is probably even more true now that the price of lumber has gone up.

Hopefully I can get the aluminum tubing I need but if not I have thousands of feet of the 1 1/2” 14g left over from a job this summer so I’ll use what’s free.

See onlys&w's post...that is why I want the shelves under the windows...makes for a lot more stable rifle. I also use the curtains where the deer can't see thru the blind and silhouette me, that's the easiest way to get busted where I hunt. But the curtains play that role plus the role of giving me some usable shelf space where I can put a drink or something that I can reach and grab without being seen. I also like a high shelf to put heater, extra propane bottles, piss jug, etc.

Those windows onlys&w used are nice but I prefer sliders...because you can use like a vent where those windows are either open or closed no tuning for my vent. I also like the insulation more for the heat than the cold...if it's in the 80's with sun, blinds feel like a sauna to me and the insulation helps there...I agree it adds weight but I would lighten the frame and walls before giving up the insulation.

Regardless...nice blind onlys&w, it looks good.

I sit back in the corner, no silhouette . Above all, I want to be able to shoot in any direction, with a steady rest, quickly if I have to.

I will only use treated wood siding and never plywood again. My last deer blind was built with this siding back in 2011 and has absolutely no rot or warp to it. I also have a 1/2 plywood blind that was built in 2010 that has been caulked and painted 3 different times and it may last another season before that siding is rotten beyond repair.
All my blinds have 8' treated posts as legs with a wooden stair case and hand rail. NO MORE LADDERS TO CLIMB. I'm getting older now.
And definitely, doors which are big enough without having to bend down to enter and exit!

Put in enough shelves and hooks/hangers.

Full width windows. Little bitty windows in a blind is a major peeve of mine. Who wants to be moving around constantly in a stand because you have a huge blind spot off each front corner due to small windows? The only thing that obstructs vision in my stands are a vertical 2x4 in each corner.

Overhang the roof at least 6" all the way around, and use roll-roofing on top. The overhang keeps rain off the exterior walls almost completely, that and the roofing material insure a blind will last many years with minimal painting and upkeep required.

Shelves and hooks to store gear are also mandatory.

Judd and S&W, I still dont get the shelf at window ledge height. Cant you put a sandbag on the window ledge just as easy as the shelf. Actually the shelf on the shooting window is ok but what if that window becomes the one your right side is on. Isnt it better to rest your right elbow a few inches below the window ledge???