For those who built their deer stands…

What would you have done differently? What would/will you do on the next build?

I’ve been putting my notes together through the season as I sit in my stands (that I didn’t build) and figured everybody who’s ever built anything always has some changes they’d make on the next go round. Curious what y’all think

Make it slightly wider. 5' currently. A bit cramped with the crossbow for me in some instances.

No rectangular for me. Square, round, octagon, hexagon.

5x6 or 5/7 vs 4x6 would be my preference. Bad knees need room to stretch out.

The only blind I've ever built was out of brush. I'm pitiful with a square and skillsaw. I have observed from other blinds - either make it so tight a millipede couldn't get in, or else leave it open windows. I've been amazed by some steel frame blinds and open windows and how clean they stay. Now, if owls, caracaras, or packrats move in, just burn it. I think tower blinds are more susceptible to raptors moving in and I have packrats in one that's up on 4X4s. It has half-@#$ windows. The previous owner tried spray foam to keep packrats out. I think they eat it for added roughage.

6X6 minimum, wide skinny tinted windows, window rain guards, single pitch roof, window curtains, 150 watt solar panel on the roof, int lights and plugs for electrical needs, 6 foot minimum off the ground, insulated, heater shelf, shelves above windows, cup holders, and the list goes on. I’m starting on ours in January

Ol Thumper's got a good list going. I would add a good door to that. I used a mobile home door I got from Deerview. You'll also want some kind of pad on the floor. I used an exercise pad I picked up at Academy for cheap. It helps with chair noise if you need to roll around a little.

I would make it pentagon shaped. Here is a calculator for angles etc. https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/geometry-plane/polygon.php 4 walls with shooting windows, 5th wall for door and small window. Using 4 foot wide walls is 27 square feet and about a 5.5 foot circle on the inside

I would also build it out of 3/4 or 1" building foam and then use poor man's fiberglass as the finish. Scarf in wood for mounting windows and door.

You can also get some ideas out of this link. https://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=543143

I used some really nice windows I got at McCoys in Brownwood. They are standard size, about like the Deerview and some others. Problem is, I've found I really don't like a 10.5-12" opening. I most enjoy hunting from tripods so when I next build a box, the windows will be at least 15" tall so I don't feel like I'm sitting in a coffin.

I like full openings. I've built a few stands and this one has everything I wish all the others did. With the exception of a 12" corner the windows (deer view) go all the way around. That corner is for concealment. I can still hunt and shoot 360°. It's 5' x 5'. From one chair in the center you can shoot in any direction. If my wife happens to be along, there's still room for both of us, but 99% of the time, it's just me. Stands that are too big are difficult to see out of, and shoot from IMO.

I like a 4” shelf that is directly under or level with the bottom of the window and I will not purposely ever buy a blind that has the spring loaded window clasps…they always are popping when you don’t want them to. If you don’t know what I’m talking about, it’s a variation of the screen door window release. I also don’t like maintenance, so prefer a metal skin over something that needs painting.

I’m thinking about upgrading my my blind this off season and I’ve started looking and even considering building exactly what I want…add mine and Thumpers list and that’s pretty close to where I’m looking (less power and lights, I don’t want maintenance and that stuff eventually requires it). I want a 10-12 foot tower though with stairs, ladders are too dangerous in my mind. The lighter the better and you cannot insulate it enough in my mind.

I have too many quirks about what I like in a blind to go into at this time. I will comment on Judds shelf though. Ive seen shelves that were right at window ledge height or slightly below and I never understood that. I love shelves but to me they need to be below the window ledge about 6" or so. Two main reasons. I use shelves to rest my right elbow and side on(for a steady shot) and they need to be a little lower to make that work(for me.) Also, assuming you put anything on the shelf then it would stick up over the window ledge if it was same height. Am I missing something on the shelf height? I also like shelves up high for stuff you dont need to get to readily.
I'll edit and add on a little about blind design and shelves to be used for a steady rest. Many have used boards in various ways to help acquire a solid rest. If the blind is round, square, hex or octagon then its much easier to do this. You can run a board(2x4) from shelf to shelf to rest not only your right elbow/side on but you can pretty much lay over the board with your chest to steady your body and also have a place to support the butt of the rifle. Ill try to get a pic if anyone interested. I pull out all stops to insure an accurate shot.

We’re on the same page other than the height and mines going to be aluminum framed if I can source all the tubing I need which I have ordered but who knows how that’s going to go. If not I’ll be using 14g 1 1/2” steel

The boss likes the lights and charging options for her computer so what mama wants mama gets.

I’d probably went a touch lighter

A full height door.
The 1/2 doors are great for banging your barrel on when getting in & out.

Glass windows that fold inward and outside plywood windows that open outwards (and stay closed during the off season) is how I make mine.

Myself. I build a 4" shooting rest all the way around the window openings. Scroll up and look at the Deerview style of windows I used. No mechanical latch, they just swing up (or down if that works best) and there's a catch they provide to hold them open. Just build with about 10-12" of clearance above them so you'll room for them to nest when open. I'm certain my windows cost as much as the balance of the materials on my build but it's exactly how I wanted it. Two windows were standard, two were custom to my dimensions. Think hard about the insulation, IMO it isn't necessary and adds to the cost and makes take down and assembly difficult. I've never got cold in my blind. I just dress for it, close the window that's catching the wind. For me, I want to be able to shoot in any direction, take it down and assemble myself if I have to. This whole stand is six pieces; four walls, deck and roof that all screws together in a few minutes. It has sat on this panhandle hill in 60 mph winds.

If i could go back and change the one i built, i'd make it a little bigger. I went 4x6 and wish i would have gone to a 5x7 or even 6x8. The 4x6 works decent for two people, but when you put all your gear and a heater in it, it gets a bit cramped. Now that my 5 year old hunts with me a little more, the tight space is a little more noticeable. I have a shelf in the front and half of the back of the blind, with a sliding shelf that just sets on top of the front and back. It helps a lot for the longer shots, but is only on the right side of the blind. I'd also make the windows a little lower. I can't remember the bottom height i built it to, but it was comfortable for me. My boy on the other hand is a lot shorter and hope to get his first deer next year.

I built a tower blind a couple of years ago with 10' legs. 6' x 4' with a 2' "porch" on the door side. I mad a couple of mistakes - decided to just use plexi windows riding in a frame of corner molding. They work okay, but if I did again, I would get shop built windows of some kind. Plus, I made the window cutouts to the size of the plexi, so they are the right height from the floor, but a little short at top so I find myself having to crouch in my seat to see any distance.

By the time I bought all of the materials, I found that I could by a fabbed blind on a base for about the same money, so the last blind I built came from Krivoman. This is probably even more true now that the price of lumber has gone up.

Hopefully I can get the aluminum tubing I need but if not I have thousands of feet of the 1 1/2” 14g left over from a job this summer so I’ll use what’s free.

See onlys&w's post...that is why I want the shelves under the windows...makes for a lot more stable rifle. I also use the curtains where the deer can't see thru the blind and silhouette me, that's the easiest way to get busted where I hunt. But the curtains play that role plus the role of giving me some usable shelf space where I can put a drink or something that I can reach and grab without being seen. I also like a high shelf to put heater, extra propane bottles, piss jug, etc.

Those windows onlys&w used are nice but I prefer sliders...because you can use like a vent where those windows are either open or closed no tuning for my vent. I also like the insulation more for the heat than the cold...if it's in the 80's with sun, blinds feel like a sauna to me and the insulation helps there...I agree it adds weight but I would lighten the frame and walls before giving up the insulation.

Regardless...nice blind onlys&w, it looks good.

I sit back in the corner, no silhouette . Above all, I want to be able to shoot in any direction, with a steady rest, quickly if I have to.

I will only use treated wood siding and never plywood again. My last deer blind was built with this siding back in 2011 and has absolutely no rot or warp to it. I also have a 1/2 plywood blind that was built in 2010 that has been caulked and painted 3 different times and it may last another season before that siding is rotten beyond repair.
All my blinds have 8' treated posts as legs with a wooden stair case and hand rail. NO MORE LADDERS TO CLIMB. I'm getting older now.
And definitely, doors which are big enough without having to bend down to enter and exit!

Put in enough shelves and hooks/hangers.

Full width windows. Little bitty windows in a blind is a major peeve of mine. Who wants to be moving around constantly in a stand because you have a huge blind spot off each front corner due to small windows? The only thing that obstructs vision in my stands are a vertical 2x4 in each corner.

Overhang the roof at least 6" all the way around, and use roll-roofing on top. The overhang keeps rain off the exterior walls almost completely, that and the roofing material insure a blind will last many years with minimal painting and upkeep required.

Shelves and hooks to store gear are also mandatory.

Judd and S&W, I still dont get the shelf at window ledge height. Cant you put a sandbag on the window ledge just as easy as the shelf. Actually the shelf on the shooting window is ok but what if that window becomes the one your right side is on. Isnt it better to rest your right elbow a few inches below the window ledge???

Not answering for S&W but for me…the way his gun is in the picture, mine will balance just like that without me touching or holding it. It’s a lot more stable than a window ledge…they will teeter on a window ledge. Because the gun is so stable I don’t need my elbow rested on a ledge or shelf but the way I’m setup, my right elbow normally will sit on the ledge too.

I'm sure you've shot prone, or from a bench/table. Everything is on the same plane, flat. My stand is no different than sitting in a chair at the range, shooting from the bench. I can use a rear bag under my forearm if I want. Most of the time my right arm is resting on the window opening. Having the shooting rest at window level, all the way around the stand with full window openings opens up just about any shooting position you need to get into, quickly. I can also use my bipod with a rear bag and sometimes do. I build my stands around the idea of being able to shoot from it, in any direction at any moment. For concealment, you only need about 12" on two mating walls to make a solid corner.

Put enough shelves and hooks/hangers.

I put a lot of thought into the blinds that I have built, and I wouldn't change much.
I did insulate the roof and that made the difference that I wanted. But insulating the walls and the floor would be a nice improvement.

I may have to copy this one when I build one this spring. Did you use some sort of metal sockets for the 4x4 posts to attach to the floor?
Also how do you get up in that thing?

Im not making any progress explaining my concept so Ill wait till I can get pics.

Yes, they are called elevator brackets. A lot of companies make these, just google deer stand elevator brackets. I have a very solid blocked, glued and screwed ladder that's about 52" tall. Walk right up, and into a your chair.

make legs out od steel NOT WOOD.

On floor lay a piece of unattached carpet. if owls or coons move in, pull out that carpet and throw it away, put in another one.

Arrange windows so that deer cannot see through blind. Arrange windoows offset, so that deer cannot see through blind. Better to conceal you.

Most of my blinds were made by me. Since I hunted by myself, I went with 4’x4’, but should have done 4’x5’. All treated wood construction, with normal framing and T-111 siding. Floors are 3/4” treated plywood. Carpeted floors. Full width Plexiglass windows that I made, where the plexiglass can be open, closed or partly open. Just slide them with a finger. All with tin roofs. Doors are 2’ wide and full height. No insulation, but all have heaters. All blinds have shelving. All cracks and crevices are foamed on the inside and siliconed on the outside. All but one stand are 4’ or 5’ elevated, using 4by4 treated posts.

Things I would change: 4’x4’ is just a bit too small. Works Ok, but 5’ by 5’ would be better, and square beats rectangular unless you hunt with another person.

I built mine 15 years ago and it either about to be trashed or remodeled

The bottom is 7 ft so my head as I sit is about 10-11 ft

1. I had made it taller, prob 12-15 bottom w head in the 18-20 ft range
2. I’d have made a ledge to shoot from
3. I’d have insulated it

And if I wanted to spend the extra, I’d built it off a trailer so it’s easy to move the other changes is pennies

Thanks for all the input, gents! Most of these things I have in the stand already, but love hearing the additional ideas. The stand I hunt out of was designed by my wife’s grandpa who was a lifelong hunter, so there was a lot of wisdom put into it. 6x8 with shelves, rifle rests, dedicated leaning spots, sealed really well, etc. Main thing I wanted to do differently to it was shorter and wider windows (I’ve been spotted in it before, but have better covering now) and am adding some shadow boxes to the outside of the windows…just to give a bit more shade when the sun is out. It does have a full size door and plenty of standing room, which works for me at 6’5. Her grandpa was around the same height. It’s got solar on it powering a couple large car batteries and inverters running AC power for the switches and lights, but I’ve swapped those out for more efficient DC powered red LED strips

Doesnt seem like you need much advice. I think its good to ask though. Can you elaborate (or pics) on the "rifle rests" and "dedicated leaning spots"?

I’m hunting out of a good one but it is aged and will need rebuilding this next season and I’ve yet to build one on my own before, so figured it was worth asking!

Let me see if I can dig through for some pics. The window shelves are 10” deep, great for resting bags on to rest the rifle and plenty of elbow room for me to lean on and get steady. The shelves have a rubber mat on them that’s probably 5/8” thick or so as well, just to offer some smooth sound dampening when setting things down on the shelves (but not on the storage shelves)

The leaning spots are notches in each corner, the shelf is notched with I’d say a 2x2” square inset. Probably a bit larger than that and the rubber is notched about that size, to let the rifle lean against the rubber and not knock it over. It’s nice to have when getting settled in. Example being when I walk into the stand, I set the butt on the floor and lean the rifle barrel into that little inset so as I’m setting down my bags or taking layers off/putting them on and bump the rifle, it doesn’t fall over

Has anyone come up with a good door design similar to the kind that Deerview sells that just fit in a cut out?

Find an old trashed out camper trailer and get the door off of it.

Two pics - one I circled the gun leaning cut out. On this side the rubber overhangs the shelf. The opposite corner of the stand has another where the shelf is cut in a little more than the rubber so the barrel only touches the rubber. Second pic shows how the rifle rests on the shelf and a better look at the thickness of the rubber

We used the same windows from McCoys and haven't had any issues so far with them, would use them again in a heart beat. The elevator brackets have also worked out well along with the LP smart siding. Wish I would have used a wider window in the front but it still does the job. Blind has only been out there since 2019.

Always slope roof away from entry. Steel wool in cracks or corrugations. Small fold up table in corner if there's room, good for gear bag or backpack. (can use as a seat for those youngans too). Carpeted gun rests ( I like indoor/outdoor). Adjustable office chair helps with window height, and comfort, and naps.

nice stand

put shingles on. A limb fell and damaged the roof over the summer. Now I have a leak and 2 sheets of plywood rotting.

I should have added side view windows and painted inside black. Still can just haven’t messed with it yet

Here is mine that me and my son built. He can weld so thats why we went this way. I wish its lighter but then this thing is a beast! As you can see it survived a tornado. We jacked it up bit by bit then once high enough pulled it on up with a rope. I built a wood sled and moved it. 1.5 inch sq tubing is the frame. Plywood all around with the floor 3/4". Inside has plywood walls up to the shooting windows. Being in the metal roofing business I put camo metal panels all around and fished the 3 sides. Only the roof bottom panels got bent on the fall....I just pulled it out by hand....its fine. 5x7 .....I guess I could have made the shooting windows a little wider on the long sides but its fine for my applications. Legs and ladder are all metal. Door is a self made wooden door with the camo metal on the outside. Flashing above all windows are bent out to keep MOST water out. The wooden walls inside allow a shelf and places to hang things. Windows are plexiglass Home Depot cut for me. The legs will come out of the larger sq tubing welded to the bottom of stand

I have steel cables attached to t post now on all for sides....lesson learned