Some of you may remember a post I made about three weeks ago (“88 years young…”) about a 1934 vintage Winchester Model 67 .22 rimfire single shot that I acquired from my 96-year-old aunt. Apparently, these low-cost, utilitarian rifles retailed for a whopping $5.50 at the time! As she didn’t foresee using the rifle, she sent it home with us and I took some time and effort to clean it up a bit and see what the old sister was capable of. To my surprise, the little rifle shot remarkably straight (pics below).

Against the better judgement of some of the more rational voices in my head, I began considering what kind of resurrection project might be done with this old piece. Oh, I could leave it in its original state…but a part of me wanted to do something with the rifle to honor my aunt. Heck, racking up 96 birthdays isn’t something to sneeze at! Since (after all) the rifle was hers, I asked for and received her permission to make some changes. “Do whatever you want”, she told me, “I’m sure that whatever you do will be an improvement!”. Ah, the blind faith of the naïve…

As I intended to “begin with the end in mind”, I had to decide what was going to be done (and by who). Now, I’m reasonably handy but (as Dirty Harry observed) “a man’s gotta know his limitations”…and trust me, I’m well aware of mine!

The barrel and action need refinishing, as the original bluing has turned to a uniform plum brow and a sprinkling of light rust pits and a couple of scratches are evident. My traditionalist values lean toward old school rust bluing, but that’s fast becoming a lost art…and priced accordingly. Thankfully, a nearby outfit does CeraKote application and that seems a more practical alternative. Stripping the action to get this done won’t be much of a chore, as this rifle has only slightly more moving parts than a brick.

Stock work, on the other hand, is all gonna be by yours-truly. Honestly, I can’t muck this up too badly as the original stock came from a plank of plain, straight-grained walnut…solid and serviceable but lacking anything approaching handwork from the factory. Remember that these were made to be inexpensive, and shaping, sanding and “prettying up” a stock takes time…and time costs money. Even in 1934.

I’d take the original stock and shape it into something a bit more aesthetically pleasing and a good bit more shootable. The point of the comb extends too far forward, making the wrist too short and too full for the shooter to get a comfortable grip. I’d cut the nose of the comb back about ¾”, flute the nose (thinning the wrist in the process). I’d sculpt the base of the grip as well…for looks, certainly, but also to allow the heel of the shooting hand better access. I’d also source and add a vintage grip cap…

I’ll glass bed the barrel and “action” (there isn’t one, per se…the bolt rides in a rearward extension of the barrel) into the stock. This will be done more to keep things secure as the rifle is held together only by one take-down screw, and experience has shown that this has a tendency to try to work loose a bit.

Things are starting to take shape. I keep tapping my own brakes; I know me...I get impatient really quickly. I'll share more as things get further along...

The Model 67 in original condition


The late Col. Townsend Whelen might have found this rifle "interesting"


The original stock shape (stripped and sanded)


Comb nose dubbed, fluting and initial shaping in progress


A different angle on the wrist definition


Grip cap installed and about 85% fitted

Looks great! Can’t wait to watch this one progress

Looking great, like the new contours to the stock

You got some talent nice work.
Can't wait for finished product.

Very kind words...many thanks.

In truth, I'm a glorified termite when it comes to gunstock work. I wouldn't be allowed to even sweep up after a master like young Aaron Little (posting as TDK here on THF).

Very nice sir

Oh no, I’d welcome a motivated sweeper. I don’t pay well though.
My first stock is in hiding, the second one was a vast improvement. I bet there’s wood yet to remove on that stock!

Oh, lad...you have no idea. The fore-end is an absolute pick-handle, but its 03-A3 finger grooves may not leave me many options. Good to hear from you, my friend!

Grip cap at maybe 95%...lots of tedious work today with needle files.

You do excellent work.

Dropped off the barrel, sights and trigger guard yesterday to be CeraKoted. I didn't take any pics of me cleaning up the metalwork as I figured that looking at them would be about as exhilarating as watching paint dry. I'm pretty sure that I nodded off a time or two while doing the actual work...

While I'm waiting on the metal to get finished, I'm starting the prep to glass bed it into the stock. As the barrel is only held in place with the single takedown screw, I've been concerned that it has occasionally worked itself loose and proper bedding would stop that. When I really looked hard at the recoil lug recess this morning, the problem became pretty evident. Over the years, the recoil lug has developed a sort of shoulder in the wood at the rear of the lug recess. As a result, the lug wouldn't always "settle in" to the same spot in the stock each time and if the lug was resting on the "lip" of the shoulder it was simply waiting an opportunity to slip off and create the intermittent looseness I was feeling.

To remedy this situation, I removed the "shoulder" from the lug recess, providing ample space for bedding compound to form a rock-solid, repeatable "home" for the recoil lug.

The original lug recess:




The area where I'd remove wood prior to glass bedding:


Removing material (along with the "shoulder":

That stock looks fantastic!

The Model 67 Face Lift project took a big step forward late last week when I picked up the barrel and various other bits from Abilene Powder Coating where they had been for CeraKoting.

Before and after photos:









Now to finish the bedding and get busy finishing the stock!

How did creatcoat make the stamped writing sharper?
Anyway I like it.

Mighty fine question...and one that I don't have the answer to!

"Normal" re-blues fade sharp edges on stampings and engravings; I was expecting similar with CeraKote. It might not be traditional, but I'm impressed so far!

Mark

Finally got to spend a bit of time beginning the stock finishing process for the Model 67. As a tribute to the age of the rifle, this will be done "old school"...

With the stock sanded down and ready, I applied two separate coats of alkanet root oil. As this is a deep burgundy colored liquid, care has to be taken not to overdo the "red", but this IS a Winchester gun after all...and the Big Red "W" always had a penchant for redder stocks than some of their competition. Two coats gave me the color change I wanted without it getting garish...

With the alkanet dry, I've begun the process of applying multiple coats slackum oil (sanded in between coats). I'll finish with multiple rubbed-in coats of boiled linseed oil, burnishing with rottenstone. Time will tell.

The original stock (stripped of the original finish but prior to any shaping)



The re-shaped stock stained with alkanet root oil and with the very first coat of slackum oil.

Can't wait to see it completed.

Am I crazy or does the barrel stamping say “Winchester pepeating arms” instead of “Winchester repeating arms”?

You're not crazy...you're just a victim of 1) a feeble original stamping job and 2) my less than exemplary photographic skills.

In person and in good light, you can faintly make out the "leg" of the first "R" in "Repeating Arms". I noticed the same thing in the photos and had to go check for myself after it came back from CeraKoting!

Mark

Hand-rubbed oil finishes aren't for quitters. While they do yield a wonderfully warm, tactile finish, there's a reason that you seldom see them these days. They are a LOT of work (especially on lower grade wood with pores big enough to lose small children in!). Still, I felt that this old Model 67 deserved the effort.

So at present the stock has seen six coats of slackum oil, sanding between coats. I've now begun the next phase: light coats of slackum followed by rubbing with linseed and then burnished with powdered rottenstone. Dusting a tacky oil finish with rottenstone really makes you answer the question "How brave am I?". Trust me, true believer...the burnishing process in worth the work and worry!

Dusted with rottenstone



After a burnishing coat

Keep em coming want to see finished project.