T-bar, I don't think your question was weird or odd. I've been shooting for 35 years and I don't think I've ever thought about breaking in a rifle. Also would wager that only 10% of the rifles I've ever owned have been new. Agree with Ten-year --You break it in as you're sighting it in just by sending rounds downrange. You also break it in as you're developing a load because well, you're sending rounds downrange.

I've broken in engines I have built or assembled... definitely a procedure there.

Do you not follow the wet patch with a bunch of dry ones?

Yes. My apologizes for not being descriptive enough. Interestingly, I had carbon come out of the LaRue I just installed last night to replace my shot-out Rainier. I guess they already started the break-in process for me.

Every "band new" barrel I have cleaned has shown dirty patches. Be it, oil from machining and/or shipping, or carbon. Lots of barrels were fired at the factory they came out of. Save barrel blanks of course.

Never forget when shooting groups to factor in human error. We're not perfect. I don't like sleds, Bipods and bags is what I prefer with the rifle against my shoulder, how I intend on shooting it. I've broke new barrels in long drawn out procedures and don't think it makes one bit of difference. Just shoot em a good bit then run a patch down them.

You only shoot around 9ish rounds to break in the barrel? I’m currently breaking in my CA Ridgeline and I just finished shooting singles and switched to 3 shot groups.

I shoot 9 rounds to foul it it. Work up a load, zero the best load at 100 uards, then run it out to 800 yards. I won't clean it unless it needs it. Some will go hundreds of rounds and not need a cleaning. Some will tell me to clean them 20 rounds in. If they get cleaned 20 rounds in, they will need to be fouled again, before I can move on.

The clean, shoot, clean, shoot barrel break-in procedure is nonsense.

And the Christensen Arms Ridgeline is one that I have in the shop right now, in .300 Win Mag. Did this same procedure last week. Waited on good weather, and ran it out to 800 yards on Sunday. It hasn't been cleaned again since the first cleaning.

I bought 2 boxes of crap Fed ammo just to break in the barrel and now I’ve been told by 2 people that breaking in a barrel is not needed. I can’t say anything because I have only bought a handful of new guns.

Button rifle or cut rifle they both have oil and one has chips. I cleaned the hell out of mine and it will shoot. I fouled it with cheap stuff too.

If you still have a box left, sell it.

Clean the barrel and go to the ammo you are going to use. And it'll take a few rounds of that ammo to settle in as well.

This is a good thread. I knew Tikka barrels were cold hammered forged and stress relieved, but I didn't know that 100% of their completed rifles were shot 3, some 5 rounds. I've bought three brand new Tikkas over the last 7 years, one just a month or two ago. The way this last one (7mm Rem Mag) shot validated their claims to me. Their promo video of their factory tour that had a heavy focus on barrel making and this thread really paints a clear picture of how different barrel making processes drive a different break in by the buyer. IMO, a Tikka barrel doesn't need a "break in", but I'll verify that at the range regardless sighting in and getting to know how it shoots.

Sounds like you got two boxes of hog/varmint ammo to me

I proved once again how break-in is a myth during my load testing for the new LaRue barrel. Yes, that's really a .0 moa group with a gasser. I know, I need to shoot a 100 round group, and then someone will say I need to shoot 150 etc....