I've got a nearly new one owner Marlin MR 7 SS 270 that has suddenly started not completely ejecting a spent round a couple times. The rifle has fired about 35-40 rounds downrange in factory ammo - both couple year old WW & Federal 130 gr'ers. It shoots better than I had expected for accuracy regardless of the brand ammo used so far, and when the spent round is popped out using a cleaning rod, it only takes a couple of light sharp taps to clear it. The spent brass has a light ring of medium gray wavy traces of spent powder around the mouth of the round on the outside, and the round is not disfigured anywhere.

I've used a bore brush to scrub the chamber with Hoppe's and get the usual amount of fired powder ash on the cleaning patch's with no dents, dings or scratch's anywhere on the spent brass. Makes it dang difficult for a quick follow up shot for sure, as it does not have a drop floor plate magazine. Do I need to clean the chamber some how more better than just using a bore brush? or find a smaller diameter chamber brush?

I plan on using up the remaining factory ammo later this spring for range practice, then I'll switch over to working up handloads for next season, then I'll need to get more reliable brass ejection's from used & prepped brass.

The way the rifle is now, if I had taken a shot on the 3 WT Does I passed on day before yesterday at SLRSP, I could have been able to only taken 1 critter, instead of having an opportunity at several of them, with the the escape route they took.

So....What say ya'll Reloading Guru's is the problem?
Ron

How well does it extract a loaded round?

^^This

I am wondering if this is an extractor problem.

It extracts a loaded round perfectly, regardless of brand & bullet weight and shape. The very 1st time this sticky extraction happened, I discovered a small corrosion patch midway down the body of the really old ammo of the fired round. Thats when I scrubbed out the chamber. The extraction of any loaded ammo has always been satisfactory so far. After clearing a spent round the rest of the ammo in the magazine is ejected as normal.

Been a long time since I've owned a rifle without a floor plate or drop box magazine.
Ron

So this was just the one corroded round that stuck?

If so, I think you did good by cleaning the chamber afterwards. If it's not clean enough, shotgun mop is an option. Compressed air is handy to plow out any lint from the mop.

No, the corroded one was shot at the range last week..and was cleared with a cleaning rod & trashed . The last one was using a 2 year old fresh clean & bright Federal 130 gr'er fired when I killed the hog that morning and could not eject the clean spent round, and should have changed rifles before I left camp, after getting the hog taken care of at camp during lunch, and then caught trying to decide whether or not to take one of the 3 Big Does as it got later that afternoon.

I had another rifle in the truck ready to go, but finally decided against taking a doe that late in the day, and not knowing if the Host was available to help me get the deer back to camp, but knowing I was leaving for home the following morning at 4:30/5am ish to avoid the storm. SLRSP is 8+ hours from my house in Palestine..and I also got caught in a Hour + wait to cross the Trinity River Bridge on Hwy 79 south of Palestine....must been 40/ 50 18 wheelers south bound and one of 'em had a real problem. I lost count of 'em at 43.
I'd been trying to decide to pullout early when the WT does showed up. 30/45 minutes of watching them & I pulled out and headed for the Motel to pack, rather than sneak back to the truck to get the loaded M70 FWT 7x57. No regrets on not taking a big doe, with 5-6 fawns hanging back waiting on the 3 mama's. I called it a day when the girls & little ones boogied. Sure enough the Host was providing help to get another hunter's critter down from the ridge up north of camp.
Ron

I had a similar problem with a .300 WM a few years back. Although the chamber looked clean and shiny, it finally occurred to me that the previous owner may have over-lubed the chamber and that something was baked on to the chamber wall and gets sticky when it is suddenly heated up. I spun a small patch of fine emery cloth attached to a thin wooden dowel, turned by an electric drill, throughout the chamber, then cleaned again. Problem solved.

I think I’d try what papa45 did. Real fine grit would be my choice - maybe 600 grit.

I might try acetone or degreaser before an abrasive.

I would try a cotton product and just a dab some lapping compound paste before Emory cloth.

I fixed a tight AR chamber with an old cleaning rod I soldered a fired case to, some automotive valve lapping compound, and a cordless drill.

It's a last resort.

This is a brand new rifle with about 40+ rounds fired thru it, probably too fast and got the chamber over heated when I was burning up some left over really old factory ammo. I'll try the liquid cleaner idea 1st on a wad of cloth strips and see if it is enough.. but my Hunting Season is over and I can take the time to figure it out. Thanks all for the ideas.
Ron

I have done similar.

Except I tapped the primer pocket, and made a male shaft to screw into it. Chuck that up in the hand-held drill.

Was it cleaned prior to the first outing?

Me too...until the threaded end of the cleaning rod broke off so I rethreaded it AND soldered it (after this pic).

Was it cleaned before shooting the 1st time?...Yes and only started being sticky after the 1 bad round was fired during the initial Zeroing process in Prep for the SLRSP Hunt I just got back from...I got 8/9 month's to get it squared away now days... This is gonna be my All Weather paddle the pirogue shooter to take to the Neches's Big Woods to hunt hogs with.
Ron

You could try wrapping your cleaning brush with a patch covered with any mild metal polishing compound.

I talked to an old time retired Gunsmith from Houston this morning about how to do & what to do to clean the chamber out. He thought about it a bit and said...Back when we were rebuilding WW II German Mauser's into sporting rifles for a living at the shop in Houston we used plain Ammonia to get the metal work clean. It will get all the dirt and grime off the inside and outside of whatever it is applied to. Just be sure to get it cleaned off with something like Hoppe's. Sometimes on particularly heavy deposits inside the barrels we'd plug one end of the barrel and fill the barrel full with ammonia and let it sit that way for a couple days.

So as soon as I can have the time I'll start with ammonia soaked swab's and go from there.
Ron

We are going to Tyler & mebbe Lindale too and see if the gunshop up there will have an interest in putting my Parazzi stock on consignment today, chasing our antique bidnizz efforts & I'm hoping to find the cleaning swabs, brush's and fresh Hoppe's kinda stuff to get this project over with at Academy. Not planning on filling the barrel full of ammonia ..yet. ...and back on the road again.
Ron

I wasn’t gonna say anything, but I’d be very hesitant to fill the barrel with ammonia and let it sit for any length of time.

I’d probably try that JB Bore paste first.

According to the old retired gunsmith, filling the barrel with ammonia and leaving it for an unspecified amount of time was a last ditch kinda thing...and they were trying to clean up badly stored super dirty Mauser's from WW II that had not been cleaned in 30-40+ years after the War. I'm looking at leaving the ammonia that had been swabbed in the barrel for 1-2 days at most. ...and repeat as necessary.

I am determined to get this rifle back into functional condition though. I live about 20+minutes from the HQ turnoff on Hwy 79 to the Neches NWR and hope to use that close access to whatever it will bring...using this SS & composite stocked 270...cause my nice pretty wood blue guns will get beat up in a heart beat, like they did when I lived in Jax Florida in the '70's and hunted similar properties on the Georgia/Florida line back when my todays old fart's health was not an issue and I could go hard all day every day in my late 20's. FWIW I'll never forget being treed by a sounder of 25-30+ hogs at sundown the 1st time I hunted there...they were trying to climb the pine tree I had shinnied up....and left muddy spots 6' off the ground on the tree trunks.

Thanks for the name of JB Bore Paste, I'd forgotten it, and it's probably not available at Academy and only available as an On Line product from one of the big guys.
Ron

Ammonia was used to neutralize the corrosive ammo that was shot. It is still used today by a lot of people shooting full auto with OLD surplus ammo. I have used a lot of ammonia based Windex to clean AK's, 1919's etc. I never left it on for more that 10-20 minutes while cleaning and did a good flush with fresh water after. This really wasn't really a clean, just to neutralize the corrosive salts from old ammo. Then you have to deal with the water on the gun/parts. Texas sun works well but you must lube after pretty quick.
There is still a lot of AK ammo being sold that is corrosive that will ruin a barrel if not dealt with in a few days. I have seen AK's that were completely rusted shut if left unattended. It took a boot on the charging handle to get it unlocked.

The BH and I took a trip yesterday, 1st stop was the Entry road of a 1/2 mile dirt road to the iron gate of Neches NWR on the way to Jacksonville. God help you if you get caught in a heavy rainstorm back there...the place looked like scenes from the monster movie from the 50's, Monster from the Black Lagoon, had been filmed there... and it's been dry now for a couple days so the dirt road in was in good shape. This place is what the SS Marlin 270 was bought for.

Attwoods in Jacksonville had a pretty good selection of chamber sized swabs & brushes yadda yadda...and I ignored what the little bit of ammo in mostly pistol calibers and a whole bunch of long guns in the rack. Next stop for me was Academy in Tyler, Bought some more cleaning supplies and a 500 pack of swabs for cheap...they also had some ammo in mostly 308 and some pistol calibers. The BH shopped for stuff for the Antique Shop Bidnizz we are in at home.

Then we headed north up Hwy 69 to Lindale to see what the Guns & Guitars store was all about. I could not tempt them into swapping the high dollar Perazza shotgun stock I'd found in a auction house in Highland Park for anything... but what a great looking gun shop & friendly honest sounding guys. From I-20 go north on Hwy 69 and into the town center buildup about 10 miles north of I- 20. The gun shop is part of the 5-6 adjacent buildings built in gotta be the 1920's and restored for current use, on the west side of the Hwy. The gun shop is in the 1st building and has a corner entry covered in a couple wrought iron gates, park on the side street to the left and don't fight the traffic to find a parking space. Long day but got the stuff I need to work on the SS Marlin 270 with.
Ron

Yesterday I spent a couple hours cleaning the barrel's bore and receiver of Marlin SS 270. Scrubbed the chamber out until I go no dirty patch's. Then just for chits & giggles I loaded the magazine with clean live ammo and tried to cycle the bolt...fed a live round and a spent round a couple times each into the chamber and closed the bolt. The bolt was stiffer than normal on closing, and would not eject the live round from the chamber. The chamber was slick, as it only took a small nudge with the cleaning rod to clear the live round or the spent round....totally different feeling than when I needed a couple light taps with a hammer on the cleaning rod to get the fired or unfired ammo to clear the chamber. You could gently push on the rod to start the chamber clearing on either a live round or a spent round.

SO it looks like I've got a problem with the bolt not "grabbing" the cartridges rim and why it is not pulling either a spent or live round out of the chamber, looks like IS the Big Issue. I don't see any chipping or feel any roughness on the bolt's claw either. One other thing I noticed was that the firing pin tip was not barely protruding from the bolt face....broken spring??

Tomorrow I'll try and find the factory box and paperwork and go from there to see if there is any warranty available.

FWIW the "fat" soft brass bristle chamber brush & cleaner I bought at Attwoods worked much better than the old Hoppes and small diameter brass brush I've always used....but that brush is still GTG when used only on the barrel's bore.
Ron

Claw?

Is this a controlled round feed bolt?

If so, are you feeding from the magazine or trying to top load it?