I asked previously but I can’t find the thread however I’m in need of someone to cut the the slots in a butcher block counter top for T Tracks as soon as possible. I can build pretty much anything out of metal but I’m out on running a router. I’m following Bills advice and finding “The Man” for the job. I’ll gladly travel a ways if someone can help a brother out on this project. I’m located in Paris but let me know where your located and I’ll see if I can make it happen.

If nobody pops up, I would call a local cabinet shop. .

There's a cabinet shop in Savoy!

Jason’s going to try and hook me up, I said the heck with it one one 8’ bench but I have to have them on at least one bench the way I set it all up. I’ve ruined one $325 top already that I tossed in the dumpster and I’m not doing it again.

Good luck...sounds like you and I learn very similarly

Yea it was a painful lesson lol

If Garvey can't do it let me know. I have a really long strait edge we can put on it and run two passes and done. I think I even still have the T Track router bit set to the right depth in my router from when I put mine in.


Are you just wanting one long continuous t track or a grid?

Just 2 straight tracks, nothing special at all. The tracks I had were .80” wide and required 2 passes to get them wide enough for the tracks to be installed and that’s where I screwed it up I have new tracks that will be here on Thursday that are .75” making one pass wide enough. Live and learn,,

Ahhh yea I made damn sure I bought the exact size router bit for the size of T track I had. I was referring to two passes on the depth. I found it much easier to do 1 pass with the bit lowered just enough to really break the top of the wood and then lowered it to the correct depth for the second pass to finish it out instead of hogging out all the wood in one single pass.

Yea I know what you meant, the first set required 2 passes to get it wide enough since they don’t make a bit .80” wide plus they were 3/4 of an inch deep verses the new ones only being 3/8” deep and exactly 3/4” of an inch wide. I really preferred the first set since their a lot beefier and you can install the t track bolts in various places without having to go all the way to the end but that’s a minor inconvenience I can live with.. All I know for certain is I’m not cutting anything else with a router

Routers have what I call a high “screw up factor”. One slip and you’re screwed. To be safe, use a double fence clamped securely. Have a fence on both sides of your router base, perfectly positioned. This will keep the router from getting away from you. Do a trial run with no bit to be sure there’s no binding or sloppiness. Take small bites, 1/4” max. If you do this, it’s hard to screw up.
Festool makes a great system with a router and fence track that works great. But it’s crazy expensive. But definitely use two fences. You can also make a custom router base out of wood (say a 1 x 6 x 12”) to replace the factory base. This longer base is more stable and more easily controlled for doing the task you describe, with less wobble.

^^Double fence, and two passes was my plan.

And I forgot, if you add material at the beginning and finish of your slot the same thickness and put that under the fence also, then the router base will be supported 360 degrees when it reaches your actual work. This also prevents tear out or chipping as the router bit exits your work. This allows better control once the bit reaches your actual workpiece and if the router tips a little at the start and finish, it’s the scrap piece that’s sloppy, not the workpiece.