^^^^^
this

go wilson or go home!!!

No video DJ...you're slacking...we need some hogersaults...come on.

i'm terribly embarrassed to post this vid. i was trying to tell my bud to wait for the second one to come in on the right. all of a sudden he started shooting. oh well... if it was easy, anybody could do it. notice my last shot hit a metal fence post

Judd - thanks for feedback and confirming my concern. Giraud sells blank inserts ($25ish) that allow you to ream it out to whatever caliber you need. This might be the easiest path OR if you don't want/need the 300BO insert then convert it to 300HAM'R. Most of material is already removed so I think it would be a simple task of running a 300 HAM'R reamer through it to clean it up. Find a gunsmith with a 300 HAM'R reamer and you are set.

I use Lee Quick Trim deluxe with power adapter and 300Ham'r die (https://leeprecision.com/300-HAMR-custom-overrun-qt-die-clone.html).
It's not ideal but I am pretty happy since it is done in one step.
I tried WCT (cheaper version of WFT) and it is slow, scratches the cases and requires additional steps of chamfaring and deburring.

If you experiencing slow trimming with QT, try to use fresh trimming head and/or play with bearing ball.
Also keep the die clean of shavings (I empty the shavings after ~20 cases) and plenty lubed (preferably dry lube).

From my experience, the blades sometimes dull only after 500 rounds and the head itself after 1000.
I was frustrated until I realized that cutting head is a wear item.
Now I just keep spare heads on hand and swap them at the first sign of slow/inconsistent trimming.
The ball that pushes the springs inside the trimming head is not required for all calibers. Some people have luck with installing smaller balls.
If you cut-off 223 cases to 1.606 you will have to trim less than 10 thou which is close to trimming required for fired cases and is done very quickly and relatively consistently.

In the future I might try Frankford Arsenal Universal trimmer (https://www.frankfordarsenal.com/ca...rsal-precision-case-trimmer/1092514.html).

DJ - those videos just show your not immortal Thanks for sharing...cool vid regardless.

SP - I've got a lathe and could do it myself but really didn't want to pay for a 300Hamr reamer when I figured Doug would need to be able to do one anyway...and honestly, I think running a boring bar in it to straighten out the case wall piece of the pilot was all that was needed and had Doug not wanted to know the details on the Hamr is exactly what I would've tried before I bought or rented a reamer. You're right though, pretty simple job if you have a reamer.

I had same thought and sent an email to Doug this morning giving him a hard pitch / suggestion that he might consider creating a 300 HAM'R insert. Hopefully, he come around on this. I am going to order the bench top trimmer.

The cartridge is relatively new, and past 2 years of market disruption doesn't count. There may not be many 300 HAM'R reamers floating around, yet. I just checked 4DRental and they have a 300HAM'R reamer in their inventory for rental. 4D Reamer Rental - 300HAM'R Reamer

For what it is worth, I have been using Giraud's insert for the 7.62x40WT to trim for the 300 HAM'R without a problem. I sent him cases for the 7.62x40 about 8-9 years ago and it is still going strong.
I have been a bad influence on my hunting partners. We all have a few thousand 7.62x40's put back and we recently surpassed 10,000 300 HAM'R cases trimmed with the Giraud trimmer.

I have at least 2,000 factory cases but like everything else connected to reloading, I enjoy the process of converting LC 5.56 to the HAM'R. It may sound excessive, but our HAM'Rs are our favorite hunting rifles AND our favorite defensive weapons. None of us shoot suppressed so the 300 BO is a non-factor, and the 5.56 may be fine for coyotes or general practice, but the 300 HAM'R is King of the Mountain. (Chestnut Mountain)

I'll also add that the Giraud trimmer is the way to go if you are looking to trim in bulk. You only have to pay for it once and over the years it has proven it worth.

One thing we do has really helped the process. About every other week or so the "boys" come over to the Proving Grounds (my wife won't let call the property "The Compound.") and we go through the case forming process as a group. One will use the chop saw, one will remove any burrs as the third does the final sizing to form. Then it is a quick final trim and we are set to go. The upside is we have good conversations and solve the World's problems.

Update on Giraud Trimmer:

This morning I received an email from Doug. Giraud already has/offers a 300 HAM'R Cartridge Insert. I suggested that he update the product listing on website. Apparently, he has cartridge insets for almost 300 different cartridge... the list is too long to include on the website. You just have to ask for it when placing an order with Giraud.

Graycard - thank you on the 7.62x40.... mentally I was locked into searching for key term "300 HAM'R" that I totally looked right past this. It is possible that this was what Doug was referring to in response. If that is the case and it fits the job then he just needs to add the cartridge tittle "7.62x40WT / 300 HAM'R" similar to their description for "300 Blackout / 300 Whisper" ... so we cavemen won't have to use our brains

With help of a buddy, I did 10K-15K of 300BO. Used a higher volume cutoff sled run through the bandsaw (metal blade) and then ran them through a WFT on a mini lathe to square-up case mouths and final case length. Dropped the freshly trimmed cases back into the wet tumbler for 45 minutes to knock of the burrs along case mouth (inside and outside). Maybe hand chamfer or Lee Trimmer for select cases. The tradeoff for speed with bandsaw was that the cut was not at smooth as compared to a circular saw blade. Might consider doing something similar with a table saw and an older/less expensive blade.




My reloading/case prep process has been refined over past 15 years so looking for a higher quality product from the get go. I am going to upgrade/consolidate to dedicated Giraud trimmer unit, and sell off my Giraud Tri-way trimmers.

Again this thread pops up with another little pocket of gold.

I appreciate the capability but I have been extremely reticent to get into fire forming my own modified HAMR brass with WC being available regularly.

The entry cost of acquiring the equipment is a hurdle but what was the biggest factor is the primer availability and replacement cost for burning up what I have. Last night I found a few Dillon tubes of SPP that were full and got put in a box that hasn't been stored in a climate controlled environment. Some had spilt into a box at some point in one of my last 4 moves. I won't load them in for anything else so it looks like I may be dabbling in the process now & getting ready for the coming days when factory brass won't be available.

Thanks boys

Im really thinking about getting one of these but not really into gas guns although i have 3 of them including an SBR in 300blk.

I'm testing a new Lehigh Defense 125gr Controlled Chaos we're designing specifically for the 300 HAM'R that so far is looking VERY promising in all regards. I'm getting 2425fps from a 16" barrel with only 24.8gr of CEFBLK lot #8 with excellent accuracy and terminal performance. I don't have any pressure test data yet so I don't know what the safe upper limit is for velocity, the 2425fps load shows NO pressure signs at all so I'm guessing 2450fps+.
First kill with the bullet was this big ole burly boar. He was in a fairly open woods area so I intentionally shot him on the shoulder instead of the neck shot I normally would have taken to see how far he would run. To my surprise, he dropped in his tracks DRT, autopsy revealed MASSIVE bone and tissue damage in the chest cavity. Shot distance was 40yds..

For any of you that don't fully understand how the Controlled Chaos bullet design works, here's the basics. The bullet is pre weakened during CNC lathe manufacture so the front 2/3 of the bullet will peel back like a banana into 4 peddles and once fully peeled back the peddles will break off of the base. Due to the spin of the bullet the 4 peddles will fly off from the base in four different paths while the base continues forward for deep straight line penetration. The initial activation of the peddle expansion is caused by contact with fluid (wet tissue) so the bullet doesn't begin expansion until it's already inside the body cavity. In gel or water (bullet performance seems to be the same to me) the peddles normally penetrate 7"-9" and the base 20"-22". I used this boar for additional testing and shot him 3 times on the shoulder area from 200yds. The peddles were recovered just under the shield on the far side and the base was stuck in the far side heavy shield. Based on shooting over 20 of them into gel, water and hog cadavers has proven to me that they perform EXACTLY the same every time.

I want some! They look like they will work fantastic! Daniel

OK guys, I understand the Texas deer season is about to start. Are you (and your 300 HAM'Rs) set to go?
As you're about to pull the trigger think of me. Living in Western NC, our rifle season doesn't start until the week of Thanksgiving. But be assured, my HAM'Rs are already sighted-in and set to go.
However, the bright spot is the extra time might give Lehigh the chance is get this new 125 gr. bullet into production.

I have a question about the 30 cal 130 gr Speer FN HC bullet and the Wilson variant. So far as the hogs may be concerned, are they the same bullet? I get that the WC variant has a round nose instead of a flat nose and that the cannelure has been moved to favor the 300 Ham'r. But are they otherwise the same bullet? I ask from a reloaders perspective on top of game taking ability.

Thank you

Shot test loads this weekend. 18" fluted hunter barrel with 110 Lehigh CC over 29 grains CFEBLK and a CCI #41. Averaged 2606 FPS(Magnetospeed) with extreme spread of 20. I have backordered 500 count 130 grain HotCor hoping they will be better fit in my hunting applications.

So after lots of thinking i have decided to just pass on this for now. I wantd to shoot some 125-130 grains at higher velocity than my blackout (2200fps). Since Im in the process of developing a load for my 13inch .308 so ill just load some and shoot them out of that for now. All it would cost me is Large primers and a bit more powder.

This round is ideally what i wanted and but i dont feel like searching for more powders, new brass ect at the moment.

Ill get one eventually

Both bullets are basically the same other than the nose shape and the location of the cannelure. Most of the initial load development for the cartridge was done with the FN HC and it works fine.

Thanks Bill. I appreciate that you choose to improve the factory bullets. I await your resupply of them but will be shooting the standard Speer bullet until then.

I compared my converted LC brass to factory unfired Starline brass and volume was identical which pleasantly surprised me. After firing both again both gained same amount on average. So it doesn't matter if you use factory brass or make your own it after the 1st firing you'll gain some volume I noticed the body expands. Prior to firing I can put it in to L.E. Wilson trimmer 300 blackout case holder and the case sticks out a little more on the neck side where as after first firing and sizing the neck barely sticks out from the holder. This is noticeably different from 300 blackout where the body stays the same after fire forming so this is why and it appears to me that because Starline is using 223 parent case to make 300 HAM'R brass the body gets blown out all the same. I don't think its a big deal.

Ok here's some numbers.
LC freshly converted cases avg H2O volume 29.895gr avg of 5.
Starline unfired 29.92gr sample of 3.
LC fired 1x and FL sized with Lee die avg. 30.344gr.
Starline 1x fired and FL sized with same die avg 30.376gr.

I used WC case gauge to setup FL die so that case head fits between 2 ridges since I am not sure I can measure ogive with Hornady tools, although I should try and machine a bushing that fits closely on the tiny shoulder.

I just realized the post above was actually my first even though I communicated with Bill Wilson behind the scenes (PM) to purchase one of his 20" 300 HAM'R barrels. I found this forum when a friend of mine sent me a link. I read all the pages and I learned A LOT! I got to know Bill Wilson and was indeed impressed with Bill's dedication to shooting community to answer all the questions and provide so much useful info, I am surprised he has time for all of this, but it really makes you feel good about this company.

I jumped at opportunity to purchase one of Bill's personal 20" barrels and consider myself a very lucky owner of such fine barrel. Thank you Bill, you're awesome. I was hesitant to jump on 300 HAMR bandwagon originally when it came out since I already had 7.62x40WT and it shot great, I heard that you couldn't use 223 converted brass initially with 300 HAM'R so that kept me back until I learned here that this is not the case For me the biggest improvement I saw was that I was able to shoot my lead cast bullets with it and accuracy and velocity was impressive, much better what I could do with 300 blackout. After the black Friday sale last year I picked up 16" barrel and than secured 20". I have the 20" finally installed in new upper this summer and its amazing. I shot sub moa groups with NOE lead 150gr bullets with IMR 4198 as well as 135gr bullets with Accurate 1680 and Hodgdon CFE BLK. The velocity is around 2350 fps, the bullets are Hi-Tech coated so no leading. I cast and coast myself. I've tried for years to chase that kind of accuracy with 300 blackout with no luck. Little did I understand is that you need slower twist rate and when I first got 7.62x40WT I immediately saw results and 300 HAM'R is even better with slower twist.

I also experimented with Zinc cast bullets (drops 84gr out of 135gr lead mold) and they shot around 1 MOA and I was pushing 2800+ fps with 1680 but I got some primers pierced so I tried CCI 450 primers and primers are fine now. I finally understood the benefit of these magnum primers. With CFE BLK I am not able to fit so much powder, I noticed that at 26.5gr my bullets are actually seating higher than before because of compressed powder, I have to adjust my seating die to seat deeper to get COAL I need. I heard you can fit more if you use drop tube but how do you load it on progressive? Might need to stick with 1680.

Converting brass: I had a theory that if I setup 300 blackout trim die on the Dillon just right, I can make 300 HAM'R brass and IT WORKED!!! I was able to pump out brass quickly and there was no issues! Here's short youtube video clip: Converting 223 brass to 300 HAM'R short clip

This is why I love this cartridge so much, its accurate and its cheap. I can reload with lead bullets for 11 cents a round and shoot a lot. Brass is free - range pickup. (old prices when I paid $26 for 1000 primers and $20 per lb of 1680 powder). Lead is 0.70/lb, Zinc is free (wheel weights), 24gr of powder is economical.

These were shot at 50 yards.

DIMA! I Have to say it again, those are Damn fine Cast groups! I finally ordered a bullet seating gauge.. and a RCBS Die set. I have always wanted to compare the LEE to the RCBS.. Here are some numbers, I know you've seen the fired case capacities..

As for anyone else that might find some of the these numbers useful or have some of their own to compare with/to. I keep all of my brass long 1.603", "Junction" measurement is just below the shoulder. Same load, same chamber for this small sample size..

BOTH DIES WERE SETUP ON A LYMAN TURRET PRESS ONE HOLE APART, SAME SHELL HOLDER, SAME FULL (HEAVY) CAM OVER. I size, rotate 45°, and run again..

FIRED/UN-SIZED BRASS

All Winchester 5.56 Converted Brass 4X Firing
16.2" Ranger 1-13T (Fall 2020 Production) I have 2 of them, both with ~2k rounds through them, gotta keep the wear even

Length: 1.603,1.603,1.601,1.602,1.602,1.601,1.603,1.603,1.601,1.602
Base: .374,.375,.374,.374,.374,.374,.375,.375,.375,.374
Junction: .367,.367,.367,.367,.367,.367,.367,.367,.367,.367
Hornady B350 Gauge: 1.352,1.351,1.351,1.352,1.352,1.352,1.351,1.351,1.351,1.352 AVG 1.3515"
Internal Volume:
30.8,30.4,30.4,30.4,30.8,30.8,30.7,30.7,30.6,30.7
HI 30.8 LO 30.4 ES .4gr SD .17029gr AVG 30.63gr USING "Ballistic Tools" PLUG
31,30.7,30.5,30.8,30.8,31,30.7,30.9,30.8,31
HI 31 LO 30.5 ES .5gr AVG 30.82gr USING FIRED PRIMERS

LEE FL
Concentricity: 1/2,1/4,3/4,1,1/4 (Thousandth's)
Length: 1.606,1.606,1.604,1.604,1.604,1.602
Base: .375,.375.374,.3745,.3745
Junction: .364,.364,.364,.364,.364,
Hornady B350 Gauge: 1.342,1.341,1.3415,1.342,1.341 AVG 1.3415"
Internal Volume: 30.39,30.19,30.29,30.04,30.19
AVG: 30.22 gr USING FIRED PRIMERS

RCBS FL
Concentricity: 2,1,1/2,3/4,1 (Thousandth's)
Length: 1.604,1.604,1.605,1.604,1.605
Base: .375,.374,.374,.375,.375
Junction: .364,.364,.363,.364,.364
Hornady B350 Gauge: 1.347,1.349,1.347,1.348,1.348 AVG 1.3478"
Internal Volume: 30.39,30.31,30.25,30.10,30.29
AVG: 30.268 gr USING FIRED PRIMERS

This is a brand new RCBS die (Cleaned), but a few things I have noticed right away.. The LEE seems to do a hair better on Concentricity (Sinclair Gauge), However the RCBS sets the shoulder a bit further out, gaining .048gr in internal capacity. Again this just a small sample size.

I had previously measured the shoulders on fired cases and just recently started setting my LEE die to bump to 1.348".. Not one Failure to Chamber, it has seemed to have the slightest improvement on SD's.. But nothing like you'd gain from a True bottle necked cartridge, concerning capacity, SD, and potential accuracy improvements. I'm looking forward to trying the RCBS Seater, I Love LEE products! However their "Dead Length" bullet seating dies don't always agree with some of the bullets I load.

I just got done checking & sizing 2,400 boolets, finally got HI-Tek, when I get those coated, loaded, and shoot some groups.. I'll try and get around to doing a full write up on my Accurate Molds 142B Design. However I'm very pleased with all of tests so far. I also got some Super Hard from Roto Metals, Pure Tin, and a new Massive Cast Iron to cook up hundreds of pounds of alloy at once. I looking to make some harder, more consistent, and honestly more well suited RIFLE Alloys.

Bill, I'm not sure if shooting cast loads was ever even a consideration when developing this cartridge.. or if you or any of your team has ever tried to see what kind of lead the HAM'R can sling.. But in my opinion it really is an ALL AMERICAN design! AR Platform, Highly efficient, Highly Versatile, and Highly Effective! Thank you again for all of your time, dedication, and knowledge! Also, a big thanks to your incredible company! I ordered Tue. morning, received it Thur. afternoon!

We've finally got the Ruger Ranch rifle 300 HAM'R conversion stuff up on the web site

The barrel kit (Barrel 16" 1-15 twist with black ArmorTuff finish, barrel nut, wrench and headspacing gage) is $249.95 order # BR-300HRACK

The kit and installation which includes black ArmorTuff finish on the receiver is $400. order #RUG-300HAMR-C

.223/5.56, .300BLK (best choice due to magazine compatibility) or .350 Legend guns can be converted

For anyone wanting a bolt action 300 HAM'R the Wilson Combat/Ruger conversion is the way to go. Mine is a 1/2-3/4" MOA tack-driver and has already proven itself to be an ideal deer rifle.

Congrats! Looks Great!
Might be my next project!