Got the barrel swapped finally this weekend on the Ruger American Ranch rifle. Shot two final strings at 100 yds off a sand bag after I zeroed the scope; 110 CC and 150 gr Hamr Hot Core factory loads. Very pleased with the result and it will make a nice addition to the Hamr fleet.

Big thanks to Mr. Wilson for supplying the barrel kit.

16”. 11.3”
110 Vmax 2652fps 2472fps
110 Leh CC 2623fps 2446fps
125 TNT 2493fps 2224fps
135 FTX 2376fps 2123fps


The TNT, 110 controlled chaos, and TNT are the only loads that are actually refined for accuracy & uniform standard deviation/ extreme spread

I had worked on 125gn ProHunters and 150gn Speer BTSP #2022 but lost those when I switched phones. They followed similar velocity loss patterns as the list above.

Since Dzhitshard had about all of them but the 130 HotCor and that's all I've shot from mine...here are those numbers

130HC 16" - 2450 11.3 - 2319

Both of these likely have a few more rounds to get through that time where they likely speed up.

Well that was fast, thank you for the quick replies!

As a FYI we will have a few of the 300 HAM'R factory loads 10% off for our big Labor Day sale and a lot of other stuff 20% off, sale starts Sept 1st

I'm waiting for some nickel 110 Controlled Chaos. Any plans?

Adding another 16” to 11.3” comparison

Speer #2022 150gr BTSP
16” 2251fps 11.3” 2123fps

Thank you

We have the components in stock so no reason we can't run some, we'll load 10k and see how well they sell. Allow 2 weeks for availability

You're awesome!!! I'm in for 200 for sure.

Just placed an order for a barrel, gas block and tube yesterday, and just read and saw the sale going on. Wonder if there is any way to get the sale price?

Difficult if the order was processed prior to the prices in our system being changed, especially with 20% of my CS staff out due to the damn China Virus

Got everything for a complete 300 HAMR 16" build plus a 223 Wylde 18" build. That sale helped out.

Now I have to figure out what to build with these WC15 and WC10 billet lowers.

Just an update. Sent an email and asked if possible to get sale price. Incredibly nice staff made it happen. We all know this company is great, but they just proved it. Thanks Bill for great guns and awesome customer service.

No doubt! One of the best companies I have dealt with!

I have a question about converting brass.
By now, I've converted quite a few cases and experiencing zero issues with the procedure or resulting cases.

But, it is bugging mr why converting to 300hamr requires fireforming while converting to 300blk seemingly does not.
The process is identical and can't see any apparent difference in SAAMI drawings.
Is there something about 300hamr case geometry that causes incomplete sizing? Is it the shoulder angle?
Or fireforming is also required for 300blk and people just ignore that requirement?

Look at the base to shoulder measurement, it is longer in the 300hamr than in the 223 Remington and it is also a different shoulder angle. You headspace off that shoulder and that would be wrong is what I am seeing just by looking at the drawings.

I got some time on the range this weekend. I hunt with the 135 FTX and 150 SST ammo so I didn’t use any of that. I did have several boxes of the 130 HHC. Been a while since I had shot some and it did t disappoint.

Thanks for your reply but I can't find the measurement you've mentioned.

But, looking at the drawings again, I do see that the taper of the 300hamr case is slightly different and the case is wider at the shoulder base then .223 at the same location.
I guess, the dies just cannot "expand" the case wall and shoulder base, leaving the task to fireforming.

Unfortunately, with fireforming being a hard requirement and current cost of reloading supplies, brass conversion is no longer a cost effective option.

What is the final case trim length?
Will be cutting down 223 brass but can’t find the trim to length

I cut off un-sized 5.56 (I use only LC19 and newer) cases to 1.606, size them and then trim to 1.5935 (length of factory brass).
Initial forming does not change the case length while consequent sizing grows the case +.005.

There is slightly less body taper to the .300 Ham'r than there is with the .223 Remington, and the Ham'r has a sharper shoulder angle, hence the need to fireform. I went back to review my notes and I measured a .2 grains of water difference between new Starline brass and converted, un-fireformed Lake City brass. There's a difference but is it enough to make a difference? I did a fireforming load development wherein I loaded several rounds of converted, un-fireformed Lake City brass beginning with a starting charge, then increasing the charge by .2 grains looking for pressure signs as you go along. I was able to get great velocity out of the fireforming loads and, as Bill had stated previously, no appreciable loss in accuracy between a fireforming load and a fireformed load.

I have a bunch of fireforming loads to put together with 125 TNT's for my 11.3" .300 Ham'r. Later on down the road, if I go to reload the fireformed brass, I'll either do a load work up to match the velocity of the fireforming loads so that I can use them in conjuction with fireforming loads, use the fireformed brass to experiment with other bullet combinations, or use the fireformed cases for hunting loads should I run out of Starline cases. This is one of the nice things about the .300 Ham'r, you can load perfectly usable rounds for target or hunting use as you fireform, then squeeze just a bit more out of them should you choose to.

Got me some Nickel cased Controlled Chaos. Thanks Bill!!!

ShadowFast1 is correct about the taper. BUT I still use the same load if my brass is, or is not, fire-formed. Plus, I have never really seen much difference in performance between the two.

https://battlehawkarmory.com/produc...125-gr-jacketed-hollow-point-jhp-500-box

Speer 125gr .308 TNT's $179.75/1,000 shipped.