Our soil is pretty sandy, and my feeder legs end up sinking. Do they make "feet" for feeders? Any recommendations?

Thanks

Yes, Moultrie makes some that work but may still sink(only about 3”across)in your situation. Many other feeder manufacturers make them also. Or have someone build you a few.

I have fixed several by just digging down a few inches and placing a flat rock under the leg.

Id just put a T post on each leg and wire very securely. This will help it to not sink and keep hogs from knocking it over or trying to.

I have a bunch of reclaimed ceramic tiles that are 12” square. A stack of two under each leg does the trick.

Put a tin can (bean, corn, or otherwise) on the bottom of the legs.

Red River County is famous for this where I hunt. I use 2 different things. On smaller feeders I use plastic "T" plumbing joints. Use the size that will go over your feeder legs at the bottom. They work great, they may sink an inch or so but then stop. Only problem is make sure you anchor the bottom of the legs down with a pipe or post. Because on dry ground, the legs will slide easily or can be pushed easily by hogs causing possibly a leg to fail so you have to tie it down. On my heavy feeders, I do the same thing but actually use scrap iron pipe that I make a "T" out of. I used to use wood and rock under legs but the hogs would just push legs off of them and the leg would sink causing leg to fail.

For soft soil and for hogs I use rebar. Softer the soil, the longer the rebar. I drive the rebar into the ground at each leg parrallel alongside and right up against each feeder leg. I leave two to three feet of rebar above ground. Then using a cordless screwgun or drill I tighten three heater hose clamps around each feeder leg/rebar combo. One at the top of the rebar, one about midway, one near the bottom. Your basically extending the feeder legs deep into the ground. The picture below there is probably 4 ft of rebar into the ground below each leg. I have a feeder without a feed pen on soft ground that has been in place this way for almost twenty years in a creek bottom on my lease.

I have seen some people use T posts, but drive them straight up vertical just touching each feeder leg at the base or at some other point along the feeder leg. Then wire the feeder leg to the T post at that point. Be aware that presents a dangerous situation in that if you are filling your feeder and fall, you have a good chance of impailing yourself on one of those T posts. Better to drive them parallel to the leg as I do with the rebar.

We always just welded some flat plate on the bottom of the feeder, but I really like the rebar in line with the legs idea...simple and fast.

Good stuff! Thanks guys!

Big yes on driving Tposts touching legs, at same angle as legs. Very easy to slide Tpost driver over post while it is at the angle of legs and slamming it down on post. Rather than hose clamps, I use wire, almost same gauge as bailing wire and do a very tight wrap in three places. Tpost goes about 3' in ground. This keeps feeder from being tipped over and makes legs very rigid. Hogs learn pretty quick that if they bump the legs corn will drop as it shakes the feeder. Wiring the legs to tposts that are driven into the ground prevents the feeder from moving and dumping corn.

I’ll put whatever I have under my feeder legs. Piece of an old fence board, those dollar a piece cement blocks from Lowe’s. I have landscaping rocks under one of my gravity feeders. I use whatever I have handy.

We put 1' square concrete pavers under the legs. Speeds the weight out and doesn't sink.

Try small metal coffee cans fill half way with concrete then drill holes around the area on top of where concrete stops to drain any water then set the can under the feeder leg then bend top of can with a hammer to fit the legs that stops any sinking. worked on mine great just a quick fix.

I cut old lawnmower blades into thirds then weld 2-3" of1/2" rebar to the center of each piece. Slip the rebar into the leg and you have a flat plate foot that will not slip or sink.

Roost work good

yep, I used metal cans from the warehouse. The bigger the better. Maybe paint cans.

concrete squares from Home Depot under each leg.

A treated 2x6 works well also.