How does this affect the fact that it works in day mode but not night? Electronics us not my forte. Btw I'm using a brand new Anker 79AN7902.

Fred I don't think it should. Yours is set to put out max USB voltage which is 5 volts the same as the one I had. Mine worked day and night with .236. I no longer have the x-sight so I can't test the newer versions.

v

Fr3db3ar can you power it up if its already in night mode. I looked at the specs and it should be fine the only issue I can think of with that is the smartcharging feature built in. And rememder that night mode probably draws a little more power.

Here is the one I used and that worked with no problem. I had 8 hours on the x-sight during a test and 1.5 hours was taking video on and off....it also was set to night time mode for awhile. When I stopped testing at 8 hours there were stil 2 bars left.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MG9VVW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You guys are still going to have to work out how to keep the elements out. I have a few thoughts on that but need to do some research first. Can one of you get an accurate measurement of the OD threaded portion of the screw in metal cap and post it for me.

You could use a rubber grommet and poke a hole just big enough that you can push the usb plug through. The kind I'm talking about are like the ones used in cars between the fire wall and interior of a car. I sent my sight back in exchange for one compatible with sun shade do I can not give any measurements.

That's an excellent idea.

Exactly what I was thinking...I have a vendor that I bought a lot of rubber plugs from when I was anodizing and was going to look there once I had the size...

I got the .248 firmware installed in my 5x18 today. I first deleted the existing firmware on the SD card... Dang...while in the card I found some videos of my hunting trip back in Febuary that I didn't know I recorded, That's off topic..... Upon installation I got the locking screeen that was mentioned earlier by others. Removed the batteries. Reinstalled the batteries and started the scope up and download of the firmware began, at the end of the downoad/ installation the screen went blank for about 15 seconds then it said it was configuring the wifi and hesitated again for about 15 seconds.....I was thinking that I would have to take the batteries back out when the screen went blank but it flickered back on and I got the new ATN logo/screen and 5 seconds later download complete. I like that the reticle is now on the video, I took a video looking down into the neighborhood, and the reticle appears to stay zeroed. Went to full magnification and stayed center. I only had the scope on and running for about fifteen minutes with new baterries but saw NO flickering in any of the settings of the screen brightness (in Day Mode)will try night vision tonight. Any of you notice or look at the ballistic compensator/ experimental???? I am intrigued by this. A little blue line shows up on the reticle...Honey doo's today so haven't done more with the scope than described. Maybe tomorrow I will will try to bore sight it. Dang I wish I didn't live in the city limits!!!!!

Bill from Raleigh, NC

Bill
The BDC is still experimental and you can turn it off in the menus. There isn't enough info that you can input to make it function at this time anyway.
Ha, I live in the country and shoot at will after a good reloading session.

Bill I don't believe you will notice any flickering during the day..if you do it will be first time I have heard it. Most are experiencing it at night in low lite setting. Medium isn't flicking for many and high has a lag updating the screen.

You won't notice any movement with the reticle until you have done your zero on your rifle. Then it will probably only move once during zoom in and once during zoom out. They seem to have the reticle going off screen solved.

Agreed Shadow.....Still thought it was interesting and was and am curious. Been trying to get the wife to move to the country, no luck thus far......

For those of you using the external batteries like the one I posted earlier , you will get a very limited amount of time with the usb side and also 5v. If you go to the 12 volt side and use either a LM317 linear regulator or a 2watt 20ohm resistor (which I don't like but it will work) and make your own micro usb cable you will get upwards of 100 hrs on the battery pack with 6 volts . I have 103 hrs on mine now and still have 2 bars left.
If there's enough interest someone can start another thread on this and we can go into it further as this isn't really related to the firmware.

I'm interested in the external battery setup. Let's start a thread about it.

I ran external again today and was able to change into night mode without the scope dying. I don't know what the difference was last night but it may just be a few hard boots to fix things. I tried it again tonight when I got home and it did work taking the batteries out, although once they were out for a few seconds the scope rebooted and showed the ATN logo, but it did come back on without putting the batteries back in. So far it seems that everything they say should work, does.

Up early this morning and messing with the scope, I see what you mean in the NV. The flickering was minimal in the low setting, none in medium and wow...the lag in the high setting. Going to have to look for a different IR illuminator I think. In the medium setting with the IR on I could see out clearly 50 or 60 yards, the high setting I could see out to about 120 yards which is the distance to my neighbors house across the street but not bright enough to where I believe I would take a shot at anything.

Yea that sounds about right for supplied illuminator. There are many options for another illuminator. I am using a T20 it has 3 levels and adjustable beam.

its 23.25mm

You guys will come out better by getting the one that has the 12v jump start plugin. A little more money but IMO worth it.

Loaded new FW and went out yesterday to re-zero and wait on pigs. My flicker problem was gone last night. I did have a hard time acquiring a new zero, running about thirty rounds through my trusty crusty AR-10. With the previous version It took about ten rounds to get sub MOA three round groups. I never got that back yesterday. I did whack a medium sized boar about 9:30 PM after the deer bedded about thirty yards from me jerked a gaze the same direction, giving away the approaching pigs stealth. The half moon was enough light to see using bino's. I'm fairly certain my zero challenge is related to the excessive shimming I had to do. I'll revisit that next time I get an afternoon out in the stix. What was interesting, eight or nine deer bedded in the field, two very close, never flinched at the shot. Also, time to pack skeeter repellent. They arrived in squadrons just after dark.

Which firmware were you using before you updated to 248? I'm on the 246 beta and don't want to have to re-zero after updating to 248 if I can help it.

I upgraded from 246 to 248 and was less than an inch from where I was 0n 246.

Reference - I have one of the original 5X scopes that didn't have a serial number.

I upgraded from .200 to .248. I had to remove the batteries to reboot as needed through the upgrade (no problem for me). All went well as far as I can see.

I checked and set all settings.

Zero - I lost my previous zero information. When I set the X and Y values back to the previous .200 setting, I found zero was maybe 3 inches lower. Adjusted to previous spot on my inside the house target at 25' but my Y jumped from 84 to almost 200 to get back to the previous point. However, the reticle is centered on the screen. I didn't shim the scope rear yet as I was waiting to see what .248 did.

I'll be going to the range to zero then will decide if I shim the scope or not.

Question - if my zero is good, does it matter that the Y = 200+?

Thanks!

No it doesn't . My Y is -232

Thanks Beaubien!