I recently bought some Nosler brass and it says it is ready to load. Chamfered and deburred case mouths and primer pockets. I am used to doing all this myself.

Do I need to do anything other than prime it?

There's nothing you need to do to Nosler brass other than load and shoot. I rate it up there with Norma and Lapua.

I procured some Nosler 7mm-08 last month. I measure case lengths and found a variance, but not enough to concern me, and I did not trim them. The loads worked out fine. My plan is to fire it twice then trim to the longest length I can get all of them to be (so the shortest measurement of the lot). Never having used Norma or Lapua; Nosler is the nicest brass I've ever used.

Just prime your new brass and shoot it.

Nosler is very good brass. I use it for all my 300 Win Mag ammo, plus others cases. Just load it and shoot it.

On a side note, the Nosler brass in the typical 308 sized cases (260 Rem, 308 win, 243 Win, etc), some have worn out the primer pockets quicker than most when running a max load. So, if you are running this size case, keep that in mind.

My understanding is Nosler Brass is made by Norma Then Re worked to Nosler standards.

It could be that more than one company makes Nosler brass for them. I think I read that Federal makes it. That didn't thrill me, since I'm not a huge fan of Federal brass (though I'm sure it's as good as the rest of them). If Norma does make it for them, that's a good thing in my book. Regardless of who makes it, it's good brass. I've used a lot of it. I didn't notice a problem with the primer pockets, but some of the 223 brass I had developed split necks a bit earlier in their life than I had expected. Same with some 308 brass that was necked down to 260.

In my 'old' 260, when I loaded and shot with new Nosler brass, I got the best groups I'd ever had with that rifle. Subsequent reloads did not shoot as well, no matter what I did. I put it down to the rifle, not the brass, and replaced the rifle with a ChadTRG/Tony Tikka that shoots so darn good that I don't think it even matters whose brass I use.

Good stuff

I never take anyone else's word for what has been done to brass. Check it thoroughly to be sure! I would resize a couple of cases to make sure that they have been sized properly. You should be able to visually inspect the inside/outside chamfer of the case mouth.

It's much easier to check it now, than have to disassemble and rework later!

I bought some Remington new, primed brass in .22-250 years ago that I loaded right out of the box. It had not been sized properly and I had to tear it all down. I always resize before loading now.

Just my $0.02

Rem brass aint Nosler brass.

I FL size all Rem and Win brass. I also trim, chamfer, debur, and flash hole debur them. It's clearly not necessary with Nosler brass.

I had 12 out of last 100 nosler custom that weren't right they all need to sized to be sure.

Sucks to find out later bolt won't close pisses me off when I found the first couple in the field.

No manufacturer is perfect and you never know until it's too late. That's why I resize EVERYTHING! YMMV

On the 308 Win brass necked down to 260, did you neck turn the brass down to normal 260 Rem neck thickness (about .013")? I don't know about the 223 brass why the necks would split (other than it being a small neck already). But the necks on the 308 brass necked to 260 would be very thick after necking down. If you didn't neck turn them to normal thickness, the brass will work harden much faster than normal. The work hardening will make the brass brittle and stiff, and when forced to size will break. To prevent this, you have to anneal the necks. I would anneal my 260 Rem brass every 2-3 firings with factory Rem brass. Some may brass need it more often. I annealed my Nosler 300 WM brass about every other firing. Annealing keeps the necks pliable and consistent, and will last much longer. I use a standard Home Depot propane torch and put the neck/shoulder junction in the light blue flame for 6 to 7 seconds, and dump in a bucket of water. I can anneal a case every 8-10 seconds on the tail gate of my truck.

I agree

What caliber and what chamber (or reamer) was used to chamber the rifle? I've personally had this same issue with certain match reamers (with customer's rifles and mine). My last 260 Rem build a "match" reamer was used. A match reamer generally uses minimum spec and creates a tight chamber. My 260 Rem was tight at the case web area (the area about 1/8" above the rim on the side wall). I was up late loading ammo for a match I was leaving for the next day. I used my normal FL 260 Rem size die and chamber checked the brass. It would not go into the rifle's chamber. I went into full panic mode. I tried both my 260 Rem FL size dies, and I could not get it to chamber and it was hitting at the case web. I pulled the expander ball on on my 7mm-08 die to try and size the web more, no dice. I have 2- 308 Win FL dies, and pull the expander ball and sized it. The second 308 die gave enough "squeeze" at the case web area I was able to chamber the brass. So, I FL sized using my 260 Rem die, then used the 308 Win die to squeeze the case web area down. This worked and I was able to load and shoot the ammo. (Since the 260 Rem is based on the 308 Win case, the 7mm-08 and 308 Win FL dies will size the body and shoulder the same amount as a 260 Rem will.) For this reason, I'm not a big fan of the "match" reamer, unless you reload and plan to work through the match reamer issues. A normal chamber will provide the same accuracy with good ammo.

I will check with Kampfeld it is my .300WM

Chad, regarding the split necks on the necked down Nosler 308 cases (to 260), the necks were turned. Probably the brass just needed annealing. Same with the 223 brass that had split necks. They had been shot and reloaded quite a bit. Still, as much as I like Nosler brass, I do think I get more split necks and sooner than with Norma or Lapua. I had some Norma cases for my 220 and I literally shot them for years with no annealing, and I don't remember a split neck. I finally chunked them when the neck wall thickness got so thin that I couldn't neck size and hold a bullet.

When I was using a lot of Remington and WW brass, I was weighing and sorting them into groups and then prepping and using them. There was always a small percentage of cases that were either too heavy or light to fit into the sorted groups, so I'd toss them. With Nosler, Norma and Lapua I was weighing them for a time, but finally quit. I wasn't finding cases that were above or below the weight range enough that I wouldn't want them in the main group. Get a 100 of those three makers' cases and I was using 100. Get a 100 of Remington or WW and I was using 96 % or so and would have two groups of cases of each - the heavy group and the light group.

I did get one Nosler case in a batch of 260 brass that had a sort of torn case mouth. I don't remember if I just trimmed it a bit more or chunked it.

All that said, every maker's brass works just fine, though the Rem and WW need some prepping. Right now I'm shooting WW in the 220 and I have nothing at all to complain about. Got Lapua in the 223, now that I finally wore out the Nosler, and I forget what I presently have in the 260. I think I have Rem in the 270 right now. It all works. I tend to buy Nosler, Norma and Lapua these days only because they don't need any prep. I'm lazy.