What are the pros and cons to neck sizing or full length sizing dies? If you only size the neck, do you have to do the full length? What is the difference between the roll crimp and factory crimp die (LEE)? I am narrowing down my purchase and am tryng to find the best route to go. Thanks,TOM

I cant tell you much about crimp as I have never used a crimp die. Full length vs neck size only is exactly what it sounds like the neck sizer only sizes the neck so a new bullet will be tight when pushed in it, the rest of the case is not changed after firing. This works well for a few times and then the head spacing will tighten up and you have to push the sholder back or your bolt handle will get stiff. Each time you fire the brass the sholder tryes and does to some extent move forward the full length sizer will push it back allowing you to set your headspacing. This helps to not over work the brass because you can limit the movement. If you want to neck size only just back your full length die out one turn and it will act like a neck only.Man I bet that is as clear as mud if I have confused you just call me and I will probly get you more confused. The lee RGB dies have worked well for me and they are pretty cheap

I found some pretty good info out there, and was able to read up a little on the full vs neck sizing part. Since I have a lever action, I should probably full size. In the long run, it may shorten case life. Based on the mechanics of a lever action vs bolt, the chamber as well as other factors full size looks like what I need to do. I am looking at the Pacesetter dies by LEE since they come with a factory crimper. I also think I need to crimp due to pressure and simply because of the tubular magazine on the 30-30, I don't want one run pushing the other into the case. Comments??

Yes, in a tube feed rifle, you want to crimp your rounds. We always use a bullet with a canalure (sp?) and crimp into the groove. Same with autofeeders.

On bolts, single shots and such, bdotson is dead on about neck sizing. I neck size whenever possible, and bump the shoulders every five firings or when I start getting sticky bolts on closing. I also anneal my cases when I bump the shoulders back. Neck sizing and annealing ever so often makes the brass last much longer, and seems to helps with accuracy when trying to chase those last few tenths.


Jay

My bad since I shoot bolt guns I assume everyone else does too. With a lever action I would say crimp is mandatory. I think you need to resize to factory specs on the brass so it will run through the magazine.

I full length resize all of my stuff, always have.

One thing I don't try to do is extend the life of brass too long. This is just a personal thing on my part, but I figure after 5 or 6 loadings of any case, unless or until something happens, brass is still fairly cheap for most of the normal calibers, and once fired factory brass can be picked at an even cheaper price.

JMO here, but with a lever action 30-30, I really don't figure that Bronco is going to be running a hundred rounds or so a month thru it, or I would not figure he would be.

Yes you are correct Crazyhorse. I will be putting rounds down range in an effort to work up a nice accurate hunting load that I am proficient with, but it will not be 100s a month. My older bro says, "why reload when 30-30 is so cheap?". I say, why not? It is quite the novelty to load your own hunting rounds to your specs and quality. Looks like crimping and full length sizing. Thanks.

That is why I like handloading/reloading, it puts me closer to the game.

Others like it so that they can shoot more and more often.

Both are good.

It is just a special feeling for most handloaders/reloaders, when they kill an animal or shoot a small group with a round that they put together themself.

Neck-sizing fire-formed brass is great for bolt actions and single shots. It basically takes the slop out. The brass lasts longer and ammo is more accurate. Also less trimming involved. I neck-size all the bolt action ammo I make with Lee collet die or RCBS X-die.

No luck with neck sizing for an AR with my Lee die.

Working the metal as little as possible carries over in a lot of metal working disciplines.

I roll crimp magnum pistol cartridges and some rifle. I taper crimp my 45ACP with Lee FCD and would taper crimp any semi-auto pistol loads, especially with lead bullets.

There's lot of commercial ammo with no roll crimp, even when there is a cannelured bullet.

Some dies can roll crimp even when there is no cannelure. It basically crushes the bullet.

I'm not positive that a roll crimp can solve sealing issue when the neck tension is not adequate. If you are using bushing dies, make sure you have adequate neck tension. My highly-scientific testing of neck tension involves Robo Grip pliers.