Finally broke down, and now I think I am almost ready to roll my own. Picked up the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme kit today along with dies and shell plates and a Nosler reloading manual it also came with a Speer. I know there are a few other pieces I will need but not sure if I may be missing something so any help would be greatly appreciated.

I know I will need
-Calipers-What brand are good
-Tumbler-Again what brand. I read good reviews on a Cabelas tumbler.

Any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance.

Case trimmer.

Forster case trimmer.
Cae mouth deburring/ chamfering tool
Flash hole deburring tool
Head space gauge (Hornady)
Bullet comparator (Hornady)

I like my Starrett calipers (non- digital)

Thumlers or Dillon for Tumbler I know are good.

For calipers, Starret is good. Dillion is good.

Others are good too, these are just the ones I have used.

What scale are you using?

I just have the RCBS scale that came with the kit, but I would like to pick up a digital scale. And thanks so far with all your help fellas.

primer pocket cleaner if
you don't already have one.

I use a Lyman 1200 tumbler and have thousands of rounds tumbled through it without a hitch. I also use a Lyman dial caliper and have been very happy with it.

On digital scales - Dillon or RCBS. I have a Dillon and I like it. I think I will eventually switch to RCBS though, because, with the RCBS you can add their Chargemaster later on, which automatically throws powder charges to your dialed in weight.

Spend money wisely.

Case trimmer - used the Lyman manual one with all the caliber collets for years
Tumbler - used the Lyman Turbo 1200 with drain pan/sifter
Powder scale - recently purchased the RCBS 1500 Chargemaster Combo. Great unit and am now considering it a must have!
Calipers - good stainless model. I have Cabelas model and it's fine
Primer pocket swagger - if you collect or shoot military grade brass. To remove primer crimp. RCBS model
Containers for storage - Folgers coffee containers to put processed brass. Ziploc too.
Tools - dedicated tools to stay at your reloading bench. Allen head wrenches, small regular screwdrivers, pliers, cleaning picks, etc.
Documentation - good electronic method to preserve your load data. I went they fire and lost all my data for over 30 years. I now use a cloud based app. Back up your load data offsite!!!!!! Ammo Tracker on ITunes Store, free. Email to yourself for backup to the email server.

Mitutoyo is another good brand of calipers. I've got a couple pair of cheaper calipers, but always trust the Mitutoyo's more with critical measurements.

Are there some common powders I should try and keep on hand? I will be loading .243 and 7mm Rem Mag. I plan to start trying 90gr Nosler Accubonds for the .243 and 160gr Accubonds for the 7mm. Also would like to load Barnes Triple Shocks. Also what primers do you recommend? Sorry if I am asking to many questions. It is all new to me and I just want to get it right. I have been reading the Nosler manual and picked up some IMR4831. Now to find bullets and primers.

My 6mm with 95 gr Ballistic Tips loves IMR4350. Dime size groups are the norm. A good investment is a Timney trigger. Will improve overall accuracy. Set about 2.5-3 pounds.

Triggers in both my rifles are good. Both are set at 2.5#.

For primers, any name brand will be good - CCI, Fed, Rem, Win

For bullets - try the accubonds first. If your rifles like them, just stick with it. At least, that is my sentiment.

For powder - I don't shoot either of those calibers, so I won't be too much help there. I use H4831 in my 300 WM, though, with great results.

Almost an exact checklist of what I use.

Powder-wise (depending on what you are loading for) I make sure I am never without my IMR's:
4064
4350
3031
4895
I load for rifle calibers ranging from .243 though 8mm (I do use other brands but I just like IMR). DO NOT limit yourself to just one brand of powder, try them all but make sure you are using published data for any you try. Don't lock yourself into using only one manufacturer's equipment as there is a LOT of outstanding stuff out there. Be willing to learn as well. You can always learn something new, I do all the time on this forum and I've been loading for a LONG time.

All here is good info.

I hate trimming cases. Get a Lee cutter and then a trim set for each caliber and keep them in the die case.

I use IMR powders for most rifle loading. .243 with 100 gr Nosler Partitions as well as .30-06 with 150 Nosler Partitions get IMR4895.

Had a fine tuned revolver (main spring force was really lightened to facilitate double action shooting)that wouldn't set off CCI primers regularly. Jim Clark of Clark Custom Guns did the tuning and recommended Win primers and away we went. Still use mostly WW primers from that experience tho I'm still shooting up some old stock.

Most loading info is on the web but I still look thru the 8-10 loading manuals I've accumulated over 40+ years to get a feel for what should work.

My main suggestion is not to load MAX. In my experience max loads are seldom as accurate and the additional velocity is not worth it. Better accuracy and cases don't need to be trimmed as often (see first paragraph). If I need a .30 bullet to go faster than a mild .30-06 load I'll get a .300 instead of jacking up the .30-06. Also, I have no need for a hunting bullet that has over 3,000 or 3,100 fps muzzle velocity - again in my experience it just ruins meat on the closer shots. Varmit loads excepted!

Get a place you can load with NO distractions and can leave stuff like you want. A bench on casters with a good cover and a file cabinet will work just fine.

Good luck and if it ain't in 3+ manuals, there could be a misprint, don't load it.

TC