Some of the 243 case I have been loading get marks on them like in the picture. Also the bolt is hard to close on some rds so I left them unfired to check oal, everything is the same except these marks. Also does it with just brass. Can anyone explain whag might be goin on.

Are FL sizing or neck? My guess is you aren't fl sizing them enough.

Fl sizing ill adjust it a bif and see what happens

How are you setting the die up?

Touching shell holder then 1 full turn out, im not sure if this is the problem I sized every piece the same and its not happening to it all

A turn out or in towards the ram? It still might explain the problem some brass doesn't expand the same or blew out as much. Another thing to check is to make sure your chamber is clean and smooth.

Have you checked your die for a bur? Its weird that those marks are in the exact same spot

Is this coming out of a bolt action?

Yes it is

You are not sizing your brass properly. I can see on the bottom of the neck where the sizing die does not go all the way down to the shoulder. When you screw your die down to touch the shell holder, lower the ram and screw your die about 1 turn deeper, or towards the ram, to get a true full length resizing. This will solve your chamber issue.

I need to come up with a name for this. It is a common sizing mistake made by new reloaders.

Agree, but also check for burr or some other issue in die and chamber, that mark is not a normal issue with did adjustment IMO

So this has been buggin me all day so I started some more investigation work all of the brass that was doing this was off of old reloads my grandad had given me. They wernt resizing at all so im figuring they had hardened, no telling how many times they had been loaded. The issue with the mark has gone away. For some reason it would only show up on that brass. Thanks everyone for the input.

Also idk what the hell happend with the die set up I had it set up like chad said, I know I wrote it backards earlier. Might have been my roomate hes been using my stuff and never thought to check it before.

I have seen that mark when the brass is not pushed all the way into the shellholder. When it is run up into the sizing die, it "binds" on the side. The more it binds, the more it marks until it self-corrects and releases from bind (pushes itself all the way back into the shellholder.) This is why you see the mark taper and then stop abruptly.

Mark wasnt from the die it was from the rifle

Couple of points I'd like to mention. IMO the chamber of the brass that you got the brass from was a touch longer. You will need to FL size then fire form to your rifle chamber then you can/should be able to just neck size. If you look at the heights of the shoulder you can take a guesstimate of telling. If your brass doesn't have a bright ring showing near the top of the web then the brass should be fine. You could always check the inside of the brass with something like a sharpened point paint can opener and put in in the brass and feel for a ring of indent at the web area also. Something looked like it was in the chamber to me but possibly the die. Another thing is the dies that were being used before could of had slightly different dimensions or somebody might have change the dimensions slightly by possibly trying to clean the die with something like scotchbrite and valve grinding compound if it got a bit rusted (notice the rounded shoulder on the left). Basically if there is no head separation, cracks, enlarged primer pockets, or neck splits the brass should be fine to reload, though if it doesn't fit the chamber then you should FL and fireform to the chamber your using or if the brass is to be used on a number of different weapons, then FL size if you are in doubt of the chamber in which the brass will be used. The dents could have also been created in the last chamber and really only showing up with your lube and dies or the gas seepage out of your chamber now.

What action have these been fired in? Have you checked chambers for tooling mark?

This exactly.

It was my first observation as well. Your neck/shoulder angles are wrong and it's why it's tough to close the bolt, or sticking.