I know I've missed some steps, but hopefully this will at least help a few guys with their own builds.
If you have question, post them in the build posts and I'll try to answer them.

I already posted some plexiglass window pics, but I'll add a few of the process here.

A few other things I do:
I paint the inside above the windows to give it a little bit of a blackout affect. It makes it tougher for the deer to see you in the blind.
Add carpet on the bottom edges of each window "after" the edges have been painted good.
I paint a primer coat and a couple of good exterior latex coats.
I caulk everything I can find after the primer coat...caulk is cheap. a couple of tubes makes a huge difference.
After everything is done and I move the stand out of my shop, I put tin on the roof.

That's basically it! I hope this helps some of you with your future projects!

Eric
Click here for start of project and pictures

Click here for details on hindges

Plexiglass Interior Windows

Nice

I don't know what to drool over the blind or the shop you have to work in.

Man you rock. that thing should last forever

You might have already said but would you sell one of these blinds they are awesome!

Yes, I sell them. Shoot me a PM.

This is one of the most helpful posts. The pictures are great. You mentioned the fact you painted the inside of the blind to give a blackout effect. I have a blind I built and I painted the interior OD green.... I have been thinking though, how to reduce the silloutte when the windows are open that I'll give that the deer can see. I came up with two options, what do you think?
1) I have wooden, flip open windows, not plexi or glass. I am thinking to paint the flip up windows on the exterior a light color (hay/grass colored) and PAINT A HUMAN silloute in each window. When the doors are actually OPEN the deer think less about it. Painting the windows on the outside light colored would contrast to the rest of the blind's OD green. I'm trying to simulate the windows always being open. Maybe adding the human sillouette is overkill or crazy, but I figure if it sits out there all year they will get used to it.
2) forget about painting the windows, just open them up during the hunt and use camo netting to hide me. (simplest solution).

Thoughts, comments or ideas anyone?

I do both...

When I paint my blinds, I always paint a dark area over the closed windows that gives the appearance of a hunter in the blind. I'm not sure that it helps, but it gives me confidence to think it does. I know when I stand back at 100+ yards, it looks to me like there's someone in there.

I also use camo netting to help hide movement.

I paint the inside black. From the deer's perspective, the inside of any blind is basically a dark shaded area. Black is the way to go. That's what the pop up blind manufacturers are going to also. I paint only from the window up, because with any elevation thats all they see. You can get 3 cans of the cheapest flat black paint you can find and do that easy.

I did something else to my blinds that helps. I've moved the side windows slightly forward. The 24" side windows are only 8" from the front and 16" from the back. That gives you some room in the back portion of the stand to sort of hide in the shadows. I also have only one small 16" window in the back. I seldom use it, but I like having the ability to "take a peek" behind me every once in a while.

Hope that helps!

What a great series texasspazzman! I have used the same basic concept but your ideas go the extra mile I have been looking for.

Good looking blind! I had the same type hinges on my windows, but after three panels got broken, I decided replace with a nut/bolt attachment instead of the rivets. Lot easier to replace, when/if one breaks again.

We had a tornado hit our lease few years back, my blind was moved 30 yards from its original spot....but still intact!

Looks great. Not sure if you mentioned this in another post, but how much is this costing you in materials on average?

THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO....

Basic build with no legs and no plexi windows...material cost for me is about:
4x4 = $200
4x6 = $250
4x8 = $325
Keep in mind, that's just basic materials. That's assuming you have all the tools, nails, screws, glue, etc.
If you detailed out all that other stuff if would add up to more.
I charge about $25/hour for my labor on em, so final cost is usually about $400-500 for 4x4 / $600-700 for a 4x6 / $800-900 for 4x8 / other sizes are figured individually.
Usually folks want legs, plexiglass windows, and other "stuff" added too, so the final cost can be a lot higher.

One question on the outside window coverings, how exactly do you attach your hinges? Just to the plywood? With the overhang that you do can you reach all the way to the 2x2?

Yes, you can hit the 2x2 with the screws, but just barely. I usually drop it down just a hair. I screw the hinge flush to the outside of the stand, and to the inside of the window. It leaves like a 1/16" space across the top, but I've never had issues with that. I simply grind off the points sticking out on the hinge screws, where they come thru the window piece.
Haven't come up with a better design...yet.

Why are you such a "stickler" on glueing everything? Does it help with creeking noises later? Great looking blind!

Good wood glue is a MUST for any woodworking. It will hold long after the wood shrinks and the staples/nails/screws no longer hold. A good wood glue will basically make the two pieces of wood hold together as one. Just try it, and be liberal with it. You won't regret it, I assure you!

I am not real good with wood work but did you cut the windows out with the router or another saw then run the router over them

Router

I build my blinds amost the same way. some basic differences are that use one 2x2 in each corner of front, sides, and back. this way you can make each seperate and screw it all togather in the field. I build mine on 10' towers and stand the base first then pass each panel up and anchor them down one at a time. I use 3\4 plywood on the floor and build the outer band of the floor out of 2x6's cut on a 45x10 compound angle so i will have the right pitch on my legs when i bolt them to the band. The top of the 2x6's are ripped on a 10 degree cut so the plywood will lay flat for the flooring. Nice job I love the design.

How come you guys don't use OSB for walls and roof? It's cheaper and more moisture resistance than plywood.

Not sure where you ever got the idea that OSB is moisture resistant. Quite the opposite...if ANY water permeates OSB, it's toast! With a decent plywood, I can give it a quick pass with the sander before I paint it, and the surface is smooth and sealed...much less likely to be penetrated by water.
Show me a 20yr old stand made of OSB that's still in good shape...never seen one.
I can show you some of my stands that are 20yrs old, and they're in better shape than most 5yr old stands...proof is in the puddin!

Great build and thanks for all the tips!

Love the design, but am not sold on using plywood or any wood for the skin of the blind. Sheets of tin have worked great for me using a very similar frame design. Paints well and lasts for 20 years or more. I am very sceptical of any blind lasting more than 5 years that has any type of wood skin without needing major repairs. The tin skin also makes it much lighter to move around and you can screw everything together with weather proof washers.

I hinged my exterior windows way they can be opened and closed from the inside. I used small diameter coated stainless wire instead of the twine.

I also use may of the same basic construction except I like to have the flexibilty to break it down and move on a trailer if i need to travel long distance. I basically build it more like a modular design.

great build and some fine carpentry!!!