He isn't. Shaw doesn't have a damn thing "locked up."

http://www.kampfeldcustom.com/index_035.htm

They got $150 of my money to spiral flute a light palma.

OK gang the engineer in me keeps asking a question on spiral fluted barrels. While on a hunting rifle I don't see this as a problem but on a rifle where it will see extended shooting and heat building up I do. A round bar of steel when heated will expand in width and legth but a spring when heated expands in width and legth but in the process of the length expansion it also twists. I'm curious if a spiral twist barrel would show the same reaction after heating up and how would that effect accuracy?

The steel fabricator/ blacksmith in me says you're not getting anywhere close to the type of heat that would cause your suggested reaction. I think it would have to start approaching the thousand degee mark before that could start happening which would require forge or torch heat. Full auto fire could get one there, maybe, but certainly not bolt action.

This is an interesting physics discussion!

I have fluted barrels to cut down on weight, and that's all.

Steel expands and contract at minimal temperature ranges far below the temp your suggesting, many thermostats rely on a simple coil spring to determine temperatures. String a fence up tight in August and watch what happens to it in January while your fixing breaks in the fence or just the opposite, string it tight in january and watch it sag in August.

I understand, fully, the expansion and contraction of steel I use it to my benefit on a daily basis, but I won't go into the many ways. You would have to measure my fencing experience in miles, I did it full time for 14 years, but now focus on fabrication more. I've customers ask m why their top rail on their fence looks different in places. And explain that what you are seeing is an expansion joint I installed every 150', because in July and August the toprail will get longer and in the winter it will get shorter. If I didn't install the expansion joint this nice straight pipe fram will be as crooked as a dog's hind leg in a year. I've even installed tubing around sucker rod to allow it to expand and contract, weld it to one side and let the other float same as the toprail.

You are absolutely correct that very little heat will cause the change, but the coil spring you speak of is much less robust that the amount of steel in a rifle barrel. It is a ratio that I'm reffering to. The thickness of the barrel will require far more heat to cause the drastic change in size. Its no different than when I've bent 3/4" x 2" solid bar vs. 3/16" thick spring steel to make a knife out of. I need to heat the heavy bar much more to manipulate it than I do the 3/16" thick spring steel.

I am betting you are shooting sniper comps.

Yep not the same. A shot at a steel gong, versus a shot at 1400 yards at paper for group.

Everything counts at distance.

And if your rifle isn't a sub 1/3rd of an inch rifle in F-Class you might as well throw the barrel away and start again.

I shoot deer and yotes in the face

Hart barreled 7mm. The main action and barrel work including flutes and bead blasting is to reduce glare. But it will shot several groups that were MOA at distances more than 450 yards.

I have a couple I want to get done for weight savings, not sure how much I will gain

Makes them look great as well

I wonder if anyone has calculated what the weight savings is

It depends on the contour of the barrel. If you don't know your contour, look it up. You can call Kampfield tell them your contour and they can estimate the amount of weight reduction. The heavier the barrel, the more weight reduction from fluting. Could be up to a pound off the barrel if the barrel is thick enough.