Looking for some ideas on how to anchor down our blind. It's a 4x8 wood blind on top of a 6' steel stand. So what do you fellas think?

i know its been on here before but i think its a good one. if in west or south texas just cut the top of a mesquite out so that the base is there and a little bit of the fork too and attach the blind to the trunk.. better than any anchor you can put in the ground

I put a 4x4 post in concrete under mine secured it with a chain to bottom of blind.

mine is similar but i used a earth anchor from tractor supply. i put eye bolts with fender washers up high on the leg of the stand and ran a cable diagonally from one leg down to the eye in the earth anchor and then back up to the other leg. i then ran a second cable between the other two legs and the earth anchor. (criss-cross pattern) i put a turnbuckle on each cable so i can tight with ground settle. the stand survived a funnel cloud that sucked the lid off my feeder 70 yards away.



it is also going to depend on the terrain. in rocking ground, i have seen similar with a big basket of rock under the stand with cables.

Here is how we anchored ours where we had not much to tie to and the ground too hard to dig in. Made the basket out of one hog panel and cable clamps.

So you only used one earth anchor? How far do they go down?

I just love this idea...

one four foot anchor in the middle and it is three feet in the ground.

One guy on here cut a tree down and left 2 foot sticking out and then used a come a long to secure the sand to the root system of the tree. I believe he used a Mesquite tree. That seems pretty practical to me...

put ibolts at all four points of the frame...then run a wire through the adjacent two throug a buckel hook....take a trailor house anchor and twist into the ground directly below the middle of the stand and run a wire from it to the bottom of the buckle.... the main thing you want is for the buckel to be about halfway from the bottom of the stand to the anchor so you have plenty of room to tighten it down

We used to do the Mesquite tree thing. Find one with about a 5-6 inch dia. cut off just enough to get the stand over it then loop cables from each opposing leg and then tie to that with a good heavy cable and use a come a long and suck her down. You can pull it tight enough that the stand will quiver, but it will not move unless it is a direct hit by a tornado. I lost one twice and then never again after doing the above.

This

x2 for the trailer house anchor. I didnt have any cable handy so used ratchet straps. It has lasted so far. Only bad thing is in high wind the straps get to makin noise, regardless of how tight they are.

When your using rachet straps give them a twist and that will stop the vibration from the wind.

screw in dead man anchor if the ground will allow it

We just use t-posts and wire.

I think the rock basket is an interesting idea, the same end can be reached so much cheaper and easier... the rock basket is a good conversation piece tho.

That lease was so rocky you couldn't drive a 16 penny nail into the ground. What is your solution for such rocky ground that would be cheaper than a $20 hog panel?
But you are right about one thing, it is a good conversation piece.

The grass and fence says otherwise.

I'll take you to a spot that has grass belt high and you won't get a T-post in the ground more than 6-8" due to loose flint rock. Jack hammer or pneumatic drill is what built that fence is my guess.

You are right about that stxranchman. At camp on that lease I was trying to drive a 5/8" steel rod into the ground in my fire put to hang a cook grate on and it took my at least 20-25 tries before I could get it more than 6" into the ground. We gave up on one spot we were going to put a feeder because we could not drive t-posts to build a fence around it to keep the cows out.

One of the fence posts redchevy is talking about is an 8" well pipe. They didn't drive that into the ground with a t-post banger.

Here's an easy solution if you're setting up on solid rock. About 15 years ago, I decided I wanted a 14' tower blind on a site that was solid hardpan rock. Using my 18v drill and a big masonry bit, I drilled a hole straight down into the solid rock about 6" deep (you may need an extra battery, but I didn't). I believe the bit was 3/4" with a 1/2" shank. Then I dropped a 5/8" lead anchor into the hole and screwed a 1/2" eyebolt with lag threads into the anchor. Then I secured the stand using the tradtional cable and turnbuckle method. Despite the wind and storms typical of the Big Country, the blind has never toppled.

My brother did something quite similar with a 16' tower. He used the masonry bit to drill into the rock. Then he filled the hole with JB Weld Epoxy and shoved an eyebolt into the glue and gave the eyebolt a couple twists to mix the glue with the rock powder (which he called "aggregate"). By the time we ran the cable properly, the glue had hardened. The stand has never moved.

The least expensive and time effective method I have usde in the past is to simply drive 4 metal fencing posts at an angle at each leg and simply tie or wire the leg to the post. Most trucks wont pull up a t post and it can be done it 15 minutes or so. I hope this helps.

I drive tposts at an angle by each leg. Then wire it down.

That might work IF you can drive the t-posts into the ground.

By doing this you can have your stand up and anchored in less than 15 minutes.
What’s needed?
Chainsaw (cut tree to desired height)
Cordless Drill
1/4 inch drill bit (drill pilot hole in center of cut tree)
3/8 self-tapping eyebolt
Screw driver (screw in 3/8 self-tapping eyebolt using screw driver)
Still cable
Turn buckle (connect one end of turn buckle to eyebolt. Run still cable between turn buckle bottom center of deer stand)