i am new to reloading and have a couple questions that i just need to make sure on. i have a mec 600 jr the old kind. i got it for free from a friend that didn't need it. it is missing a few parts i have got most of them already but i still need the grommets so my first question is do i need to get both the brass and rubber grommets or can i use just one. and my other question is if i find a recipe could i change it a little such as a wad or the amount of shot charge. i'm pretty sure i need to stay with the recipe and not change it but was just wondering. these questions are probably common sense but i figured i should ask instead of just do it. thanks

I think mine has both washers. Also, I am one not to deviate from the recipes unless I want to split a couple recipes. But if I do that I do not change components only amount of powder. That is all I feel comfortable with and I am pretty fond of my sight and body parts

mine has both, go to the powder manuf. web sites there you will find all kinds of loads using different wads, primers, ect.

thanks guys. i have noticed there ain't many people that seem to reload shotgun shells. one more thing. what is the main difference between different kinds of primers..does one fire quicker than the other or something and what effect would that have on the load.

There are some different and some you can sub, I didn't think about that when I posted originally. I use Win/Fio/Nobel Sport (I think you could add Cheddite but they had piercing problems and I have stayed clear of them) all on the same recipe. Fed/Win/Rem are completely different "hotness" so I won't sub.

Good point.

Got a ? about the grommet. Are you talking about the grommet under the powder and shot bottle where it seals against the bar? I have never seen a brass one?... Is it for shot side only? I am missing one and had to use an oring at that time to get by. I need to replace it with OEM.

yes i am talking about under the bottles. mine didn't have either one so i was using it without them but powder was leaking a little so i found a washer and trimmed it down and made it work for now but it still leaks when i take the bottles off so i was wondering if i need to get both. i will just buy both so it is right. have yall ever had a charge bar that don't throw the right charge for shot. or how far off is it supposed to be or can be? thanks

The bar is probably calibrate for certain size shot (say #6)??. I have checked the bar using #7-1/2 and 1-1/8oz was putting out about 1-1/16oz.
If you can't find a grommet, try an auto parts store for a oring.

i tried a oring and it doesn't work as good

funny. i had the same problem.

ended up buying some brass washers and cutting the id to .55" the od to .73" and the over all height to .15" and now the powder drops are alot more consistent. you want the inside edges sharp. make sure not to put a chamfer on the thru hole. being a cnc machinist has its perks at times.

but before i had done this i did find you can buy those hard rubber washers at the mec web site, and just replacing the old ones help it drop a more accurate powder drop.
http://www.mecreloaders.com


the other thing i found at bpi is a powder baffle http://www.ballisticproducts.com/All-Metal-Powder-Baffle-for-MEC-Loaders/productinfo/2100005/. this helps a great deal also.

o-ring not going to work because it doesn't shear the top off of the powder bushing like it needs to be. new rubber ring makes a difference but the brass has been working real well for me.

Thanks for the great info. I used the Orings as a get by and you are correct in they won't shear powder. Think I will order some of the hard grommet washer you talking about.

i saw something about the powder baffles on a different forum i thing it was shotgun world or something like that. they were saying the red is better than i guess its grey..idk though. how would it help? wouldn't it raise the bottles up more

Powder bushings for mec change the weight of the charge. The shot bars that come oem from mec are all red, but they are listed by weight of the shot thrown, 1/2, 5/8,3/4, 7/8, 1, 1-1/8 ect. all the powder bushings are sold seperately by number.. The number can then be crossed throught your prefered powder man, for weight in grains by the exact powder you choose.

Keep in mind not all "shotgun" powders throw the same weight in the same bushing as they have very different densities!!

yes that is right. i have a 7/8 charge bar and plenty of bushings and the powder is coming out right but it seems that i'm not getting a full 7/8 ounce of shot.

diffence in red or grey is the grey one is made of steel and the red ones are plastic

ok, we are not talking about powder bushings here. we are talking about a powder baffle. what that in effect does is condition and or arrange if you will the powder to go into the powder bushing..
basically what it does is lay powder down in such a way it flows through the bushing better. remembering now all powder
is shaped different.


some are flat disc shape and some are round drum shaped

oh i got it now lol i'm slow. so which one would you prefer the red or grey?

oh and if anyone is planning on buying one of those baffles i would look around more online i saw them on midway for about $7

you are right, the plastic ones are 6 or 7 dollars, the metal ones are twice that.


just trying to help.

The brass washer and the grommet go in the threaded flange where the bottles screw into the top of the sleeve where the charge bar slide. You will need the washer and grommet even if you use the powder baffle. I have purchased them before online. The shipping was more than the washer/grommet. I have also seen them in stores--Gander Mountain most recently.

And as said above, you will need the red baffle. It is well worth the money in my opinion.

Also, I would not alter recipes at all if I were you and just starting. I would also get a balance beam scale and weigh every fourth or fifth powder drop for a while until you get a good hang of it. Just changing how quickly you pull down the handle will alter your drop by a tenth of a gram or so. Not a huge deal unless you are loading really hot shells. You need to be very consistent in all your actions.

All this to say, do everything you do in reloading with safety being priority number 1. I'll be glad to help if I can. I have rebuilt and sold multiple MECs and I load LOTS of shotgun shells on MECs. And yes, I still use the 600 Jr. because I don't always trust progressive presses.

thanks squib thats good information and personally i don't know if i will ever get a progressive it just seems better to do it step by step. so far i like the mec they seem good

The only mec's I have now are for 28 & 410, my 20ga and 12ga are Hornady 366 progressives. But I never noticed powder stacking or incosistant shot weights.. Both progessives have built in powder and shot baffles.. Once my 12yr old son starting shoting 4-5k rounds a year I had to move to progressive..

wow what does your son do? is he in a sporting clay club or something?

4h and NSCA we travel all over the state plus a whole lot of practice!! O and good news for my reloading tab, my 8yr old will be starting this year...

sweet! that sounds awesome and a whole lot of fun