Anyone out there still use a Side by Side for duck hunting? I'm thinking about breaking one out for this next season. I figure if I can't hit em with 2 I ain't gonna do it with 3.

I got a 1955 WInchester Model 24 in 20 ga. that was given to me from a friend. It's got some rust on it, but I got a guy that's gonna clean it up for me. I may try to tag some dove with it next season. Not too sure about putting steel through it though.

I have a Stevens Model 311E 12ga. I have been reading up on it and seems like it will be fine to shoot steel through it, but am still trying to figure it out or not.

One of these days I will get one for all my hunting work, just because. There is nothing classier or more nalstalgic than an old SxS. And I would highly doubt it is safe to shoot steel out of an old SxS shotgun.

I think it really depends on the chokes. I called Remington just a couple of weeks ago to see if my son can shoot steel through a 1958 Sportsman. I can't say that for all guns, but their answer was that MOD and down was OK, anything tighter wouldn't work.

Call the manufacturer to make sure - assuming they're still around. I was surprised how quick I got an answer.

Its not only choke. It really depends on the steel used in the gun, the minimum barrel wall thickness, condition of metal, proofing, choke at the muzzle and choke just in front of the chamber(forcing cone), etc...

I am surprised Remington would tell you it is acceptable to shoot steel in an old gun, but then again they like being sued.

What may apply to one gun probably will not apply to another. Take what you read on the internet with a grain of salt, it is either foolishness or ignorance to assume.

This is what I have been reading on the Stevens 311 models. Do Not shoot steel if it is full choke, but Mod and down was fine.

I'm going to give Savage a call on Monday and see what they say.

I think the only good thing the older American guns have going for them is they have very thick barrel walls, proofed to different standards, and generally over-built clunkers. Whereas most of the European guns at the time were thinner, proofed to a certain load, well balanced, and elegant.

Once again though this is just a general albeit factual observation. I once ran into a Fox Sterlingworth(American produced) with a minimum wall thickness of .025". Thats a little thin...

Another consideration is the chance that the barrels are not in the original condition that they left the factory. Some older guns have been backbored to remove pitting, therefor making them thinner and more plausible candidate for "oops" moments. And all this time people thought backboring was something done for improved patterns and recoil reduction.

Lastly, older guns typically have tighter bores than modern guns. They were designed in a time where plastic wads didnt exist, and needed the tighter bores to allow for a good seal. So combine that with the fact that steel does not compress as easily as lead and you run into another reason why it is not recommended to shoot steel in old guns.

I have given thought to this as well but in the O/U form. I watched one of the Mojo Outdoor episodes they filmed in Canada and Mike Morgan was using an O/U double and doing pretty well.....I think I'd try to find an all weather style gun if I did this....

In addition to that, using shot larger than #3 is NOT recommended.

Exactly Cappy. A box of # 4's, 5's, or 6's isn't going to destroy a SxS. Shooting steel all season at ducks now thats a different story.

This is what I shoot through my pre'64 model 12 at teal and stock tank decoying ducks. It seems to work very good in my limited testing this year.
http://www.hevishot.com/index.php?page=s...t&Itemid=73
I believe error on the side of cation is the best choice when dealing with older guns. It would be a crime to ruin an old classic when a viable option is available.