Sounds too good to be true, but for the price, I am gonna try this Sony ExView board mount. Comes with an aluminum housing and the 4mm lens will have to be swapped out but worth a shot.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-EXview-DN-C...=item3cd82b4a7f

Ask first is it has the enhanced effio-e chip. You need the OSD (On Screen Display) that includes privacy zones in order to create the crosshairs. Some of the Effio chips do not include privacy zones and will not work. Also, that is a 24v camera. I would stick with a 12v system and if you look hard enough you might find one with rca plugs.

I was going to do Rolaids NV1.0 style build with a day time scope and a QD mount to remove the cam from the rifle when not in use.
Just have to figure out the lens measurement vs. distance from scope.

Will upgrade the parts as testing deems necessary. Just got his $20/free ship 5" monitor as well.

Just found a Swan SW211 camera in my parts box with a couple of lenses for day time (rated @ >3 LUX) testing (mount alignment, distance, lens choice, etc).

Thanks for the new project ideas!

The recoil can be a problem with a 1.0 build. It also is not as good as a low light / night scope. The 3.0 version I built is a excellent day time scope as well and night time. The key is the 100mm lens and in my case the support bracket I made for the lens. Here it is mounted on the gun.

Was able to test recent mods. The first pic is a feeder at 75 yards.


This is a Target at 50yards.


The actual display is sharp, the lines are the pixels. When you view the display it is like looking at a led computer screen.

This is the same Target with my red led hunting light from NEBO.

I have been asked how the one shot sighting process works. We use the privacy zones feature in the menu system built into the camera to create the crosshairs, they are basically blacked out areas that are 1 pixel wide that run from Top to Bottom for the vertical and left to right for the horizontal. The process is to line up a shot on target then afterward move the crosshairs to where the shot landed (POI).

In this first pic the red dot is where the bullet landed to the right of the bullseye which is in blue. Notice the Vertical position is at 256/257


We first change to Privacy Zone 1/8. Then we move the right limit of zone 1/8 to the POI adding one pixel at a time to the block until the two edges split the Bullseye and the POI.

Next move the left limit to 1 pixel in front of the right limit and in the example the new line is at 297/298

Next change to Privacy Zone 2/8 and we move the bottom limit in a similar fashion from 152 to 155.

Next move the top limit to 1 pixel above the bottom making the horizontal line at 154/155

Note the number of crosshairs (Privacy Zones) varies between camera types. In the camera I am using I can have 4 separate sets of crosshairs. This is important because these scopes being handmade may not have perfect alignment with the trajectory of bullet. So you may have another pair of crosshairs off to one side at different distances. If you look at my prior post in the last pic there is another crosshair up above the target which is a hold over before I remounted and shimmed the scope. It does give us an Idea of how multiple cross hairs will work in the system.

Hope this helps.

The color exview is not as sensitive to IR as the bw one I listed. Just an FYI also the pinhole is a f4.3 which is not as sensitive as the standard lens which you get to pick either 2.8MM, 3.6, 4.3, 6,8,12, OR 16MM .

The effio-e board I am starting out with is only 480tvl so not quite as nice as the 700 or 770 line boards.

For what ever the reason it won't let me edit my original post. So here is a better parts listing.

CAMERA BODY $63.00
700TVL SONY Enhanced Effio-E 4140 CCD Box Camera ATR Auto Iris OSD
http://www.securitycamera2000.com/products/700TVL-SONY-Enhanced-Effio%252dE-4140-CCD-Box-Camera-ATR-Auto-Iris-OSD.html

MONITOR $20.31
3.5" TFT LCD Color Mini Monitor For Car Auto Rearview Monitor DVD VCR
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=m570.l3201&_nkw=3.5%22+TFT+LCD+Color+Mini+Monitor+For+Car+Auto+Rearview+Monitor+DVD+VCR&_sacat=0 LENS $72.87 2MCCTV 2M-5100A

PICATINNY TO 11MM $7.43
DOVETAIL 3/8" 11mm WEAVER PICATINNY 7/8" 20mm RAIL MOUNT ADAPTER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068YV38K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CAMERA TO PICATINNY $17.95
See Through Tactical Riser Off set Mount PICATINNY RAIL Scope Flashlight Sight [1/2" Riser Mount 8 slots]
Mounts to bottom of camera body
http://www.ebay.com/itm/See-Through-Tact...t-/221003118692

ILLIMUMINATOR $150.00 Not Pictured
Spot-On Hunting Lights T20 IR 940nm
http://www.spot-onhuntinglights.com/

ILLIMUMINATOR MOUNT $6.80
MODIFIED PICATINNY SCOPE MOUNT RAIL 13 SLOTS
Cut in half and attach to camera body to mount light
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tactical-Picatin...=item51b16d48c9

PIG TAIL $1.95
2 way Twin DC Y splitter Pigtail Cable
One leg goes to the camera the other to the monitor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111142203922

BATTERY $52.60
YABO 12v UPS Battery 9800mah Lithium Ion Battery for CCTV
http://www.amazon.com/Hiyadeal-Portable-...attery+for+CCTV

BATTERY POUCH $11.88
VISM by NcStar Stock Riser with Mag Pouch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OAAHTA/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

MONITOR BRACKET $4.00 Ace
Hardware 1/2" band Iron

4ea 8-32 1/2" cap screws $1.60
Attach camera to Picatinny Brackets

4ea 8-32 1/4" cap screws $1.60
Attach the monitor bracket to monitor and camera body

2ea 1/4-20 1/2" flat socket screws $0.80
Attach camera to Picatinny Brackets

1ea BNC to RCA adapter

1ea BNC 90 Degree Coupler

The shroud is custom made out of 16 gauge aluminum and a Hardwood block. If your going to attempt this build pm me and I will help you with the shroud.

Horn slayer,

I would love to pick your brain about this DIY night vision option. It's something I'm considering doing, but honestly know nothing about. Do you have a build write up for the 3.0 version?

Not really. I have a pretty good assortment of tools but it would be much easier and better if I had a Mill. I also have a pretty good knowledge of wood and metal work from my jig and fixture days. Do you have any background in the trades?

I'm a pretty good welder/fabricator, and have done it professionally for many years. I also do a fair amount of wood furniture.

The most difficult part of my version is mounting the picatinny mount to the camera body. I have not found a mounting base that doesn't require milling it flat, drilling mounting holes etc. The shield lens bracket is also pretty tuff because of the odd size of the hole and the tolerances.

I will say that the results are better than I expected. This weekend, I was able to sight it in at 50 yards with the first shot then hit within an 1.25" of the bulls eye at 100 yards with the second shot.

I was also able to field test the video and illuminator. I was able to easily see out to 200yards in great detail. The only issue I found is with the iris adjusting when an object is in front of the target like a tree limb or bush. There is a 1/2 second delay it seems before it adjusts the picture.

Nice write up!

This is cool stuff! Keep it up!

Any difference between ccd and cmos as far as NV is concerned. Seems like cmos might be a better option? (i.e. less battery drain)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-HD-700TVL-1...=item27d4e716c4

Battery consumption is not a limiting factor. Also, the camera has to have the ability to see IR and privacy zones to create the cross hairs. Most CMOS chips don't see in that range unless specifically designed to.

I am in the process of design and building Frankenstein 2. Frank 2 will be more compact and durable. I'm having a housing machined to make the unit more precise. Is anyone interested in cost sharing? I am looking for 3 or 4 others to split the machine work cost of the housing which is going to be made out of 1/4" wall 2 1/2" square tube. I plan to use a picatinny rail system so if you need something different we will have to discuss the details.

Would you recommend doing a manual iris then?

The autoiris is working pretty well.
Since I am making Franken 2, which is going to be pretty dang sweet, I am going to make my first unit into a handheld spotting scope. My new lens is a 10-120mm auto-iris. If your interested in building a Franken 2, pm me your email and I'll shoot you a drawing. I have a guy lined up to do the machine work on his 9 head turret workcenter. Here is the camera

Here is a drawing of the new housing that is precision made. It doesn't show the mount which in my case will be a picatinny. It is 6" long and made out of 2 1/2" Alum Tube 1/4" wall.