Has anyone tried to build a mud motor ? Seen a lot of info online just wanted to no if anyone local in Dallas area has tried it?

yes, several

Delta Waterfowl got any pic's of the one's you have built?any pointers?

I thought about it but changed my mind. you can't make them yourself as cheap as you can buy one with a warranty.

Links you will need:

Discount Steel

Small Engine Supplies

Burden Sales

Mcmaster Carr

Robin Engines

Southwest Speed

Daves Motors

Tips:

Be patient and take your time.

Figure out what size motor you need, go up to the next size, if possible, 2 sizes. My motor is on a custom 11' Gator Duck Hunter, I chose a 11 hp electric start Robin for the long tail, it has a charger and has plenty of aftermarket hop-up parts for it. I can get 14.8 mph on a hand held GPS loaded with gear, but it has a 9hp Robin electric start powered surface drive now with neutral, which only pushes the boat a little over 11 mph with no motor mods and a belt reduction. I have new upper and lower pulleys on the way which should get me back to where I was without motor mods.

Determine required shaft length, and load. How much gear/weight will you be pushing.

The stronger you make it, the longer it will last.

Research mounts, I made my own mount, it is simple and rock solid, and no I will not post pictures.

You will need a good u-joint, do not scrimp here.

You will also need a thrust bearing/washer. I used 1 3/4" tubing with a 1/4" wall thickness, 3/4" drive shaft, and a Ron Hill 7x4 prop. My thrust washer is teflon specifically turned on a lathe and sandwiched between a bronze washer and the shaft housing behind the prop. It is quick and easy to replace, and lasts for a long time. This also puts all the thrust on the housing and none on the motor or u-joint.

I used (5) five 3/4" id x 1 1/2" od x 2" long bronze bushings turned to size and pressed into the 5 1/2' shaft housing and pinned with stainless set screws. I also cut an oiler groove inside the bushing and polished the 3/4" stainless drive shaft to prevent premature wear. There are 3 seals on the lower end of the shaft, and 2 on the upper to hold in the Amsoil 50w oil. There are 2 pillar block bearings on the upper end of the drive shaft, one on each side of the u-joint, to maintain shaft alignment and control torque.

I used a simple plate to mount the motor and upper shaft and a single 3/4" wide x 1/4" thick strap for upper support and a 3/16" thick x 15" long x 6" wide flat plate for the skeg.

For the tiller handle I used 7/8" aluminum tubing mounted in aluminum split lock collars welded on the motor plate. I used a bicycle style throttle for a Stihl weedeater and a simple water proof safety tether. I also used a push button starter button and a simple Kelsey-Hayes key switch.

The battery is a Odyssey 925 mounted on it's side behind the motor.

Longtails are old news, surface drives are where it's at, you get neutral, belt driven pleasure, less vibration and more looks.

Sorry if you want pictures, I will not post or email them. There are plenty of pictures on the net, just look.

Hmm, I have way less than what a factory built one cost, less than $700 on the Longtail and less than $1000 in the surface drive.

Hey DW, you got any pics of your work!!!!!!!

Would you like me to build it to? I guess the next thing, some chapter will want one donated........

The one I copied for my very first one:








You can buy the motors from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool for less than $150.

You can buy 20 horse longtails all day long for around $1000 or $1200. So with all the driving around time to get the needed parts-bearings , prop, the shaft ect. is not worth the extra money. If it is a money thing then you can't comeout ahead. Now if it is an accomplishment thing then by all means I see your point. I scrolled down and looked at the photos of the longtail you built and that is kewl. Looks like you did a fantastic job on it.

I got a 4 rivers duck boat w/ 5 hp Nissan . What I did was built a jack plate for it . I can run in as shallow water with no problems . If things really get bad just lift the motor up and things really get shallow running. It whole lot more simple and a heck of lot cheaper. Plus if you ever been on boats with mudd motor there hard to handle in tight places and my is not

Ha!! axe our panel of experts that pulled on it 5 or 6 times before they found the "start" switch!!!!!!!! And yes, my 13 ft pirogue been wanting one for awhile, cept our landowner is "no gas motors" on the new lease!

I can't help the FBT can't buy a clue.......

how much did it cost once the whole thing was done?

The last one I built, everything delivered to my door, less than $600 turn key including the new prop.

Maybe I need to rethink the thought process. That aint bad at all for what look to be a stout long tail.