I like it and use it, but they claim no need to clean off after sizing. I use denatured alcohol and a micro-fiber rag anyway. Here’s a pic of after 50 rounds cleaned with said rag. That goes into your chamber and is forced to the walls with high temp. Is your chamber unnecessarily dirty?

Chris, have you tried imperial sizing wax?
It’s amazing how little you use and it wipes off easily when your done sizing.
That one shot stuff makes a huge mess and you get it inside your neck..
not to mention case dents and deformities from too much lube!
I have a can of imperial from the early 2000’s that still has some left in it and have loaded 1,000’s of rounds with it.

I always tumble sizing lube off. Takes time, but prevents exactly what you're talking about.

Use one shot mostly these days. I see negative comments about it all the time, stuck cases, dents etc. leads me to believe some folks blame misuse on the product. They say you don’t need to clean but they didn’t say I would hurt if you did. I wear an old t-shirt when loading, but my mom cringes but I while off cases using the shirt as I size.

I think we know what you mean, Matt.

I hope so I struggle sometimes lol

I just use isopropyl and LLA for case lube. Oneshot went way up in price and availability for a while. Yes I clean cases after sizing. Reduces bolt pressure and case stretching.

I know what you're saying!!

Imperial or Hornady Unique is the ticket. Better yet, neck size only with a Lee collet die and you won't need any lube at all.

I have been using it for years,probably on my fourth or fifth can, never had a problem

Yeah, but what if you want accurate loads?

Good try but a swing and a miss.......been making very accurate ammo for about 15 years like that. It's not that hard.

Yep. Use a Redding body die, a Lee Collet neck die, and a Forster seater and you'll be hard pressed to do any better.

edit - ' isopropyl and LLA for case lube' error - RCBS lube and isopropyl, in a baggie and shake. No problem even for 308W FL sizing.

Neck sizing only is inviting a piece of brass to be wedged in a chamber. I've seen it twice. And I've told the owners you get to put the butt of your rifle on the ground and stomp on the bolt handle with your boot. One of two things is going to happen. The bolt is going to open, or the bolt handle is going to break off. I always enjoy the "number of years loading" answer. What really matters is the number of rounds loaded.

Many, if not most, competitive shooters size with a .002" to .003" shoulder bump. It retains the fire formed properties, it will chamber, it will eject.

Hornady One Shot has worked well for me. I bought some case lube off a Sniper's Hide member. It is pure lanolin you cut with alcohol. He was sizing .50 BMG brass and found that was the most reliable. It's been the best I've ever used.

What's laughable is you believing you're the only human on the planet that knows how to make accurate ammo. In spite of what your ego tells you it's not exactly rocket science to neck size your brass then chamber/eject them to make sure all is well. Give me a freaking break.

Hornady One Shot

Only thing I've ever used. Never cleaned them after sizing, never caused any issues.

Only thing I neck size is 300 wby but I’ve got many loadings on factory wby (Norma) brass never had the slightest of an issue.

I currently have One Shot and Hornady Unique on my bench. I also like Imperial Sizing Wax. All 3 work equally well for me. You will get dented shoulders with any of them if you use too much. You can stick a case with any of them if you don’t use enough. Once you find your groove you won’t do either if you are paying attention. I use One Shot most of the three because I find it to be a time saver loading batches of 50 or more.

It will never cease to amaze me that horror stories are shared about bad techniques, and there's always push back from those that say "it's the way I've always done it".

Go for it. Some people have to be run over by the truck themselves before they learn to look both ways before they cross the street. No skin off my nose.

I told my son, most fairly intelligent people learn from their mistakes. The truly brilliant learn from someone else's. Clearly we've got some around here that are not brilliant.

Lot's of mistakes are self inflicted. People who think they're brilliant, when they're not, is always amusing to me. Most of the people I know like that are about 5'7" in stature and dream of driving a 6" lifted 3/4T pickup.

Man would be nice if we could keep name calling out of it… but we can’t seem too. I’ve seen plenty of people mess up the process using FL sizing dies that wind up with ammo that doesn’t chamber.

JG have you ever neck sized and stuck a case personally?

I've never neck sized, because of the reasons I mentioned. It is all risk, and no reward.

But, I've been in the presence of over a million rifle rounds fired. Be them at my rifle range, rifle matches, and on hunts. Every time a case was stuck, the hand loader had been neck sizing the brass.

I was reloading for a tight chamber. With the die bottomed out, I still could not drive the shoulder back. I went as far as chucking that die in the lathe and facing a few thousandths off the end of the die

Your neck sizing pupil and all these other folks didn't know what they were doing, obviously. Some people apparently need to pay people like Chad to do it, or buy factory ammo. In any case, a semi retarded person should know he can chamber/eject his brass after sizing/neck sizing to make sure they work. My son learned that when he was 10 yrs old.

It is too easy to use this. 1.893" fired. Set a full length sizing die to make that become 1.891". It chambers, fires, and ejects.

And when I was using Hornady One Shot, it worked just fine.

I prefer digital calipers for measuring shoulder bump and would also recommend folks to get a caliper jaw base to provide a stable platform for the case head to rest on. I also like to use Redding "S" Full Length sizing dies with neck bushings. The Redding "S" dies originated with a fella from San Antonio by the name of Speedy Gonzales, he shoots over at Dietz Range in the BR matches. The "S" dies are hard to beat, match up the neck bushing for how much neck tension you want and bump the shoulder about .002. I use Imperial sizing wax or Royal Case Lube, I think big cases like my 338 Lapua does better with the Imperial though. I always take out the neck expander on the sizing dies for my shooting match rifles and use a separate die for that, it is made by 21st Century and the expander floats to align itself up with the case.

The very same *just right* shoulder bump can be performed using a Redding Body die. Another way to a acomplish that is to use a .308 FL sizing die to bump the shoulder of a 7mm-08 case, for example. Many ways to skin that cat.

The Lee collet dies are hard to beat when it comes to straight necks. The case body just needs to be given the proper attention.

It is perfectly possible to screw up and load ammo which will not chamber no matter what equipment you choose. Gotta be at least as smart as your die set.

What the heck is that caliper/gauge apparatus? I've never seen that before, even when I was full length sizing. Too bad neck sizers can't use something like that. Looks cool though.

Amen to the LCD/Redding Body die (series B for the 6.5 PRC) setup, and good call on the .308 to neck size 7-08, and it does work like a champ. Question: Just found out after 15 years that neck sizing/body dies suck for accurate ammo, but am wondering if .002-.003 runout is any good or not? This is all assuming I can ever get any of my neck sized brass to chamber. Haven't fired a round in 14 years because of it.

Gee, I dunno. Maybe one of the guys who has one of those round thingies with numbers on it can tell us.

I don't know about this runout business. Isn't that when you put a bullet in a case thingie and put it on your table and it rolls off onto the floor?

Body die = another step...I've spent money out my nose making my process faster and more efficient...body die is not something I'd never be interested in. They make full length sizers that do both neck and body at the same time. Why would you want to run a piece of brass through a press anymore times than 1? You retired guys got all the time in the world but us working stiffs don't have any tolerance for that extra steps BS

S dies are great if used as intended, meaning you test neck tension to determine what tension that barrel/charge likes...and was designed to use on brass which is neck turned and with no expander. They can be used with the expander but they really promote donuts because they do not size the entire neck but instead about 3/4 of them. Speedy is a short range benchrest guy and it excels in that world...but those guys don't get a bunch of rounds on their brass, they are normally pushing boundaries and trash primer pockets in pretty short order. I would bet you less than 20% of the guys use a neck bushing sizing die (both neck and full length) for it's intended purpose, most guys just spend the additional money cuz it must be better. Sort of like the SAC dies.

.003 runout and I would be looking for a problem....002 is my limit on run out and yes I check until I am convinced it's within that...both concentricity and OAL. I don't need the training wheels that are on the caliper above...but it's not a bad idea, I just haven't bought one.

I say all of that to say...this is one of those areas where there is more than one way to skin this cat and no "right" way in my opinion...the target tells you the right way. I'm not talking about hitting steel at distance, I'm talking about shooting little groups. After all that is the measurement of accuracy and has been for years...short range br is and has been the accuracy gold yardstick. Lee collet die and a body die can do that...but it ain't for me, that is all I'm saying.

EDIT - As to less wiener measuring and to the OP's original topic. I use One Shot or Imperial and regardless, I wipe the outside of every single case. My washrag normally looks like hell because it's just the way it is haha.

Good post, Judd.

As far as dealing with cleaning a case for a particular step goes, I use a coin bag or whatever I have on hand---a large cotton sock will do, or even an old pillow case. I just put all the brass in it and give it a light dousing of 92% alcohol and knead it until I think the brass has had most of what offends me wiped off. I'll do this often before applying lube to a bunch of cases. I do the same to wipe off any sizing lube as well. When the bag you're using gets grimy, just wash it by hand in the kitchen sink and let it hang dry.

I like Imperial sizing wax and will use it when I have only a handful of brass to process, but I often use Hornady Unique in the tub when I have a lot of brass to process. I'll go ahead and apply some to the palms of my hands---it's gonna get everywhere anyway!---and pick up my brass six or eight or ten pieces at a time and roll them in my palms, then toss 'em in a small plastic tub. I lube all of them and then go wash my hands to avoid getting the stuff all over the press and other places I'd rather it not end up. It's fairly quick and very effective and the stuff is good for your hands anyway.

I have used aerosol lube products as well and they're fine as long as you adhere to the instructions. I just don't like all the overspray that ends up on loading blocks and other places.

Tool is kinda outside version of Wilson case gauge. Actually measure the H.S. With proper insert, measures/sets bullet jump to bore also.

The tool we are talking about is on the other end of the caliper...it gives it a wider flatter surface to measure against.

Thanks, I try RR and many times fail

RiverRider your method sure seems efficient, but I always try to keep my brass from touching. I don’t doubt I’m probably too anal about it though. Dinged necks freak me out. I automatically lube and resize the neck but still put them in the fowler pile because they have then been sized twice without annealing. I get to thinking my neck tension has to be all wrong at that point.

Judd mentioning the SAC dies reminds me that while I’m getting excellent consistency from mine, I’m not 100% sold on them. I still think it takes way too much pressure to size with it even though I’m doing minimal work to the brass. That problem could be compounded by the 419 press geometry. I don’t know.