No financing. Brand new. I hate to haggle over price, I’m not the haggle type. How much you save by haggling anyway?

Also, what if you buy 2 vehicles from same dealer, get a better deal? That is a possibility. Also got vehicles to trade in with the new ones, I cannot be bothered selling the old vehicles to retail individual buyers either.

Sounds like you are going to make a car salesman very happy soon.

I’ve fallen into the same mindset.

I deal with people who I usually have done business before. They tell me what they can do on a vehicle and if it’s a good time or better deals will come up.

I negotiate the new car first and then discuss the trade.

You can find better deals sometimes in a vehicle that has been sitting on the lot for awhile, end of year deals, etc.

All depends on what you’re looking for and what your need is.

I’ve ordered the last few so it’s just what the price is.

I’m probably going to get on his nerves, sells people like to haggle. My plans is to ask for a price, let them know I’m not going to haggle, shop different dealers/makes, and go with best option. Buy from existing inventory.

Thats my plan, got a better idea?

Easy answer to the question: Call David Dryden at Platinum Toyota of Texoma. We have bought two Camrys from him in recent years. I had everything done by phone before leaving home, with one of those transactions being a trade. We were in and out as soon as he showed my wife how to do everything on that "screen" I guess you call it these days.

Deal with the either the Fleet Guy or Internet Sale Manager, I wouldn't waste my time with a salesman off the floor.

Of course don't discuss how you will pay until you have the deal completed

Some places if you use the fleet sales manager he will just take the check from you and you will be done

If you use the internet sales manager they will still try to send you thru fiance where they will try to tack on BS like undercoating, paint protection, etc.

If you know exactly what you want you can get a lot done over the internet. Send an email to all your local dealers detailing what you want. They'll have the internet sales email on their site.

From there it's a lot easier to negotiate. Give them all a chance to beat the lowest quote you get. It's a lot easier to haggle when you aren't in their dealership on the clock.

That's all you gotta do. In 2008 and in 2016, I negotiated new trucks over the phone. Here's what I want, here's what I'm willing to pay for it. I am not going to waste my time at dealerships. In 2008 I bought from Glen Polk in Gainsville. He called when the truck was at the dealer. I drove over the next day, and was out of there in 10 minutes. In 2016, I bought from Hoyt in Sherman. I went into Hoyt, signed the papers, put my money down, and the next day they brought the truck to my house.

My son's 1/2 ton burned up. Buying new, the guy I bought my 3/4 ton from wouldn't give him the time of day. Internet sales manager worked his butt off and sold my son a new truck. IF, I ever buy new again, that's the way I'm gonna try.

I think it all depends if the vehicle you want is a popular seller or not. Also i think the best buy tips are not hard and fast rules year after year. Too many variables change the buying power to be consistent every time.

One example right now dealers could care less if you pay cash vs finance. They say they get there money either way. I was in the market for a tacoma for a year until i finally bought a used one 4 months ago. Buying new was an option. Paying cash was my purchase power, or so i thought. Also trying to buy a new leftover tacoma when the new generation hit the market failed to get me any deal

You can reach out 300-500+ miles to various dealers if you like. That's what I've done for the past several vehicles. It was pretty much all done when I got there. I spent more time with a service person training me on the vehicle.

Also I walked in with my own pre-approved financing.

They will be popular. New truck, F150, TRD, …New car, Honda, Toyota, their top sellers..

After brief introduction, I handed the internet quote to the finance manager and politely stated that if the final number does not match this highlighted out the door price, then I will be departing. It was good to get that out of the way immediately. None of them seemed to be very happy about that but it's business.

Let your fingers do the walking.

Internet does save a lot of time

If you want zero haggle and an okay price, a lot of places you may already be a member of have pre-negotiated discounts with manufacturers. Costco, AAA, etc. You can go check their website, fill out a form or two, and take it to the dealer. You can usually do better but that's quick and easy. The company I work for gets employee pricing with all car manufacturers, so I usually go through that as a start. If that discount is more than the dealership wants to go, then they'll try to make up for it on the trade....you're just essentially pushing the fight somewhere else.

My experience on my last few purchases has been that they are willing to go cheaper if you finance than if you pay cash. They get kickbacks from the finance company/banks on every loan they sell. Sometimes it's a couple hundred dollars and not worth the hassle and I'll just pay cash, but I've seen the difference as high as $1000 and I'll finance it and then pay it off when the first payment comes. The dealership doesn't care if you do that, they've already got their money.

Way back in the day I found 3 identical trucks at 3 dealerships in the state. I got all the internet sales folks on a group email and told them to start bidding. They kept trying to drop the other 2 and talk to just me but I'd just add the others back in. One bailed out pretty quick but the other 2 actually got pretty competitive and I got a great deal on the truck.

Costco will provide a price on the vehicle of your choice with a dealer that participates in their program. I have done this on two new Toyota purchases. The price they provided was lower than dealerships other than the Costco referred dealership would do. You may be able to negotiate that price down some, but it tends to be pretty firm. The only real negotiation is your trade-in value which usually can be negotiated up from their initial offer.

I'd like to see the stats on how many people are late making car pmts these days. At these rates, the only way the fin co makes much money is by collecting fees. You gotta collect a lot of fees to get to $1000.

The last two new cars I have purchased have been most online. I determined exactly what I wanted, including color. I find a VIN for a vehicle that matches what I want and send it to every deal within 100 miles.
I make it clear that I want a drive out price and when I come to pick it up, I will walk if anyone tries to upsell me anything.

Some dealers will not respond (they know they will not be completive). Some will ignore what you want and send ad pricing on whatever they have. A handful will be serious.

For both of those purchases, a dealer recommended by The Car Pro show beat the pants off the others. We bought the wife a new Kia Shortage this year and the differences in pricing was almost $2,300 between highest and lowest.

When I bought my Taco, I walked out of the chosen dealership because they started on the aftermarket packages. I was not off the lot before they called me back and offered another $400 off If I would come back.

stay strong lots of BIG discounts out there now. 2025's are on their way and the dealers need to move inventory badly. Tell them what you'll pay and stick to it. Dont fall for "add-ons" F those.

If you have the title on your trade, selling to an individual is no problem. Meet them at their bank, sign it over. Roll any taxes into your asking price.

oh yea, dont tell him you are paying cash. If you finance, you can negotiate this too.

Some Food for Thought on Buying a New Car - Along the journey, I’ve done some analytics along with internet sales and service AI bot builds for the auto industry, along with a few dealers and dealer groups, and while I can’t share specifics, I can offer some general advice. It’s important to understand that dealers often make more money on the back end of a deal than on the front end, so being a cash buyer might not always work in your favor. In fact, signaling that you intend to pay cash usually limits the kind of deal you’re offered, as sales managers typically are required to hit a specific gross margin per vehicle.

Breaking Down the Front end and Back end

• Front end: This is what the dealer earns based on the vehicle's cost from the manufacturer and what you pay before financing and insurance (F&I).
• Back end: This includes profits from financing, insurance, GAP coverage, aftermarket add-ons, warranties, and any trade-ins.

Salespeople are often just cogs in a bigger machine. Most of them receive a small, fixed transaction fee regardless of the final sale price. Their main role, along with internet sales bots, is to qualify you as a buyer and ensure the dealership hits its gross margin target. As soon as they hear certain qualifying words, they put you into a specific transaction route. With 8 million people now in DFW, they know someone else will always walk through the door.

Consider the Big Picture

When negotiating a deal, think beyond the sticker price:

• Taxes: Are you better off trading in your current vehicle to reduce sales tax, or selling it privately?
• Opportunity Cost: Could your cash work better for you elsewhere if you can secure zero or very low interest on financing?

Because of the back end profits, sometimes financing can actually lead to a better deal. You might consider financing and then paying it off after a few months, but be cautious of any early payoff penalties. Financing could also be a strategic move if you’re looking to build credit for a family member, like a daughter.

Personal Experience with Financing

I only finance vehicles when I get zero or near zero percent interest, or when it makes for a better overall deal. Rich overlords borrow trillions each year from the Bank of Japan at near zero interest and put into the US market and US assets so think outside the box when it comes to free money. Also don't forget about my post about following the JPY as an indicator for the next market crash.

The one back end item I always opt for with new personal vehicles is the longest extended factory warranty possible—because I tend to keep my cars for much longer than most. I try to negotiate this upfront, knowing it’s something I want. This is usually a high-margin item for dealers, so there’s often room to negotiate.

Hacking the Car Buying Process

To get the best possible deal, you need to understand the above so you know how the dealer operates. Here's a hack: When negotiating, don’t show all your cards upfront. Instead of leading with the fact that you’re a cash buyer, start the negotiation as if you’re open to financing. This keeps the dealer engaged and may lead to a better overall price on the vehicle, since they’re hoping to make money on the back end. Once you’ve secured a solid deal, you can then decide whether to follow through with cash or financing with the option to pay off the loan early, provided the terms allow for it without penalties.

Another tip: Research the typical backend products (like warranties or GAP insurance) that you're likely to be offered. Decide in advance what you might actually need and negotiate those items upfront as part of the overall deal, rather than as afterthoughts in the finance office.

By hacking the car buying process this way, you can better control the transaction and maximize your savings. Eventually bots will take over much of this process so enjoy the experience with the sales guy as it might be the last time you ever do it -

Good Luck and Enjoy the New Rides!

Got an unsolicited text from dealer wanting my 19 F350 for a trade in yesterday. Replied not interested.

I`ve used Truecar.com several times and save me quite a bit of money. Fill out the information and they email, text and call you with many offers. I`ve had the call me in less than 10 minutes before. My advice it to ignore all of them for at least a week or two unless you just get a hell of an offer. I had one salesman text and call me for 3 months before I reached out to him and finally bought a vehicle from him. The deals will usually get better because each salesperson thinks you are negotiating or at least talking to another dealer if you aren`t answering the emails, texts or phone calls.. Also see what Carvana, Carmax or one of the other internet dealers will give for your trade. Dealers can find that information out also and they will know you aren`t just a tire kicker. I had several unsolicited dealerships email me with offers in 2023 after contacting Carvana and Carmax. I used that as leverage to get 1000 more on my trade last year.

On my last new vehicle I got 13% off a 53K vehicle by haggling in person.

If anybody would know this guy does, he buy's lots of stuff

I go in and tell them to make me an offer. If I think it is fair, I will take it (so maybe they left $$ on the table). If I think it is too high, I will walk (so they priced it too high). I tell them I negotiate all day and don't want to do it in my personal time. I had a salesman tell his manager this one time and it totally seemed to blow his mind. He told me that's the way things work in this business.