Will a slider sight or high quality stabilizer help more with stability? I have a cheap stablizer and 3 pin sight on my current rig.

I would play with a heavier/longer stabilizer. Honestly if you have a good rest and a stable bow you can tape a toothpick to the riser for a sight and it would work fine.

I have a 7 pin sight with a floater and would be fine with the same setup and a 3 pin trophy ridge up to 40 or 50 yards.

how far do you practice, and how far will you kill a game animal? If 30 and under is answer then no.

Might invest in a slider sight to practice longer distances, but if you cant practice past 40 regularly then there is a valid argument to save your money, until you can practice at distances that require the site and counter weight

I agree with Bobo. Stabilizer at shorter distances doesn't make much difference unless you're target shooting. If your struggling at 30 yards it's probably not the site or stabilizer. It's something in your draw cycle. If you're shooting at longer distances then a stabilizer will surely help. A sliding pin helps a lot if you are shooting varied distances and have time to adjust. I've hunted the desert with a two pin slider, which worked fine from a tree stand but wasn't adequate on spot and stalk. An animal may move from 30 to 50 and now you're holding for elevation rather than having a third pin. Also, with a slider those extra pins are moving as a gang so you have to account for that when you move it to longer distances. If you do get a multi pin slider, shoot those secondary pins at different yardage and different settings so you know your drop.

I have stabilizers but rarelly ever hunt with any except an old one about 4 inches long that you cannot buy anymore but it sure dampens vibration/noise a lot which is why I use it. Don"t need it though to kill deer at 40 yards and in though.

Toothpick will work but have not seen it but have seen straight pins stuck into a block of wood that was glued to the rizer. Worked good enough for that old man. He killed deer with it using a flipper rest. Was in the 80s though

I can just tell you in my experience, the difference between a $25 sight and a $80 sight was literally, the price i paid for it. Until I got a CBE Tactic Micro. Micro clicks are a game changer.

Tight spot quiver say what you want about the rediculous price, mounting my quiver tight to the riser improved balance and stability and actually dampened the noise on the shot. Getting an adjustable stabilizer made me want to get a side bar to match. All the little things you can add for stability are worth it, if you put in the time on the range.

If you can’t shoot a decent group out to at least 40 yards you probably won’t notice the difference spending money on all that stuff.

I run a spot hog 3 pin Tommy Hogg. My bottom pin is my dialing pin. Its micro adjustable, and has 2&3 axis adjustments

I archery elk predominantly so the 30,40, 50 covers me from 0-60 pretty easy. If i need further its an easy dial.

on whitetails I run 20,30,40
on pronghorn and jan mule deer I run 35,45, 55

I practice at home from 5 to 60 , and shoot 110 when ever I can

I wonder how the archery world would adjust if we had to go back to shooting compound bows with wheels, using actual pin sights ( not fiber optic threads ) and flipper or prong-type rests? Can’t forget aluminum arrows either.

Easton 2317 Arrows how could I ever forget. Man you are taking me back to when I was just a pup. I remember how happy I was when the whisker biscuit came out. I sure hated those 2 prong flip rests. Me as a kid could never keep that damn arrow on there during draw. Don't get me started on the sights. Needing 2 pairs of pliers to adjust each pin individually.

no thank you. But I do shoot FMJs… a stretch I know but thats as close as im going back to brass painted pins

I shot those throwback FMJ's for a while that looked like the old aluminum arrows. Just didn't like the heavy arrow setup myself.

I actually have one of those old bows, well loaned right now to a neighbor down the street. 1983 PSE Nova wheels, steel cables, brass sights you do need 2 pair of pliers to adjust and the old snake prong sights but the string change is simple. Killed a few deer with that old bow. It was a step up from recurve in speed but not by that much. 1918 AL arrows for me with it, realized early on get a skinny arrow stiff enough and get better penetration since getting those to fly straight is a bit of a juggling act, much like a recurve.

He has his son that is in Archery in the schools program shooting it. Even those crude sights and rest is a step up from a Genesis bow if nothing else speed and power.

I7

Two of my favorite releases. Bottom one is from the early 80s a Hotshot release made in Rockwall TX

When I first saw the whisker biscuit I thought it was the greatest thing ever. Didn’t matter if it chewed up fletchings.

I shot a tiger tuff prong rest. Hated that thing.

I will take a Hill style longbow and some cedar shafts, and a 90 grain Magnus 2 blade. Thanks

I know guys with decked out, top end bows who shoot six inch groups at 20 yards on a good day. I know guys who shoot $3000 rifles with $2000 scopes who can't shoot a 2" group at 100 yards off a bench rest or hit a deer where they should off the blind window frame.
A good shooter who practices regularly can take low end equipment and get the job done every time. A mediocre shooter can have the best set up possible and he will still be a mediocre shooter.
You want to be better??? Shoot more and more often.

I met a guy like that at the local pro shop. Targets out to 60 plus yards yards and his 20 yard groups were like 9” with occasional flyers missing the rinehart 18-1 i let him use so we could use the full length if the range.

It was his first time shooting his bow all year, literally the weekend before opening weekend. “What do ya’ll think about that?” “I think that 20 yards is your absolute max and you really should practice more before you wound a animal”. Got his feelings hurt lol.

And you know we would have tried to help him but he kept insisting his sights were off. I tried to explain, you don’t fire one shot and then make adjustments when you can’t shoot a group. He was a hard headed fellow. And a farm kid with a few kills under his belt. He knew how wrong he was i have no doubt.

I had exchanged numbers with him before and planned to hunt together or help drag each others kill out when the time comes. But after than experience i blocked his number. I can’t deal with someone that shoots like that and rebukes correction.

I'm a shop shooter for my local range. It gets busy the weekend before bow season. But most of the people getting ready are in about three weeks before season starts, or three weeks before they leave for elk camp. I really need to try to get them out on the 3d range. At least to get some elevation practice. The two weeks before opening day, the two days before Christmas and the first few days after are the days I try to be there to help.

Also, the week after opening day when bow problems show up.

The guy that regularly wins SOY in my division in Texas ASA shoots a 15 year old bow. Shoot what you know and know what you shoot.

A longtime guide out west told me to practice at 100 yards to hunt the desert. That will get you comfortable at 70.

Yes I'm rambling and this is off topic. But I'm old so...

Happy Birthday you old goat

Thanks. I'm officially now a burden to society.