This will be for a Ruger American Go Wild 7mm PRC

The only thing I don't know much about is the MRAD adjustments. I do like second focal plane best. This seems like a bargain with the 16% discount they have. I guess once I get it sight in dead on at 200 it will be okay. I heard 1 click is .37 inches... a little more than .25 inches. Basically 3 clicks is 1.21 inches I guess. Give me your thoughts please.

https://www.sportoptics.com/meopta-meosport-r-3-15x50-rd-1047491.html

I can't remember which one I have, but the glass is a lot clearer than a VX 3 Leupold.

That is what I have heard John. Thanks!

If you're not used to mils and folks you're around don't talk mils...don't do it. That's my opinion.

Example (and contrary to what anyone here will tell you this is how people not in "the game" or "non-operators" talk) - You missed 4.5" to the right or 6" high...think how fast you need to know that and how much "math" you have to do in your head to make that correction in mils.

In short, it's pretty much putting an American in a metric system at the blink of an eye you don't know the answers. We talk quarters not tenths....'Merica!

There are places for mil and that is, when you are in places where people talk and use mils.

Well said.

100% disagree

Forget inches. They have no part here.

Zeroing a rifle.

Shoot at paper at 100 yards. You see your bullet hole is .8 Mil high and .4 Mil right.

Dial the elevation knob down .8
Dial the windage knob .4 Mil left

Shoot again.

Missed a hog at 400 yards .5 Mil low and he didn't run off. Hold .5 Mil higher and shoot again.

The opposite of what Judd said. I use Mil scopes for everything, and he knows that. .22 lr to .300 Norma Mag and .338 Lapua Mag are the largest to date. 5 yards to 2500 yards has all been shot with Mil/Mil scopes.

A whole lot of people sell MOA scopes and buy Mil, but rarely the other way around.

100% Agree.

Agree, kinda. If you have no interest in shooting at any extended range and you’re not interested in learning that a moa and mil are a measurement of angle and not inches on a paper than moa is the way to go. Set and forget guys it’s king. Of course they both work for that. The inches thinking only gets you close if you’re shootings at 100 yards.

Basically I agree with JG but I definitely see the utility of moa like on an FX-3 fixed power scope for sub 200 yards.

Any of those dots are just a measurement of one kind or another. This makes sense to me. So I ordered it. I will study math which I am good at.

I just looked at the reticle. They are hamstringing anyone trying to use that scope.

As I've said before, it seems some optic makers do not have any shooters working there.

That is not really a Mil reticle.

I'll figure a way to make it work. I'm a hold over guy anyway. Not a dialer except on zeroing a scope.

Hey bobcat1

Be advised some Meopta marketing and reticle images are skewed funny.

I fancy a G4 reticle and saw the image when I bought my Meopta. Received the scope and the actual reticle is finer with the subtension spaced further apart (not really G4 in my opinion)

The scope itself is very nice I’m just not impressed with the reticle and marketing pics for it

I can post a pic if you want to see for yourself

That is my point. Those dumbasses made a reticle you can't do much hold over with. That scope you HAVE to dial.

If you're deer hunting with this set up:

Zero it for impact at 100, or 200 yards, whatever you're most confident in.
Shoot it at 300 & 400 yards, 3 shots each range, or until you're confident.
Record your drop on painters tape, place on the grip right behind action
Cover in clear tape
Hunt

You know the size of your target, from top line of back to bottom of belly, Y from ear to shoulder...........If you're shooting Hornady Precision Hunter 175 gr, you're looking at holding about 6" (200 yard zero) above your desired point of impact. For the price of one box of ammo you'll be ready.

It's not how I do it, but most hunters that practice with their set up do it this way with success.

youll be fine bobby

Wrong. He can be successful without dialing for what he will use it for. Wouldn't be my choice for a scope but my opinion doesn't change the price of eggs, neither does yours.

Tunnel vision.

Okay, I cancelled it and ordered this athlon. I know I can make this one work for me.

https://cameralandny.com/shop/athlo...%202.5-15x50%20-%20AHMR%20SFP%20IR%20MOA

i have FFP athlon. Decent glass, but reticle is too thick at top power.

Dials well

Good to hear! Here's the reticle on this scope.

And you know this will work for him based on what? E is considering a Mil based scope for some reason. And that reason could be for what the Mil scope was made to do, make hits precisely at distance.

That scope does not have a reticle made to make holds. It has a turret made to dial, but not a reticle to make holds. I can see it with my eyes.

See above.

@ J.G.

Saw above. He doesn't HAVE to dial.

See Below, my response to him earlier.
"If you're deer hunting with this set up:

Zero it for impact at 100, or 200 yards, whatever you're most confident in.
Shoot it at 300 & 400 yards, 3 shots each range, or until you're confident.
Record your drop on painters tape, place on the grip right behind action
Cover in clear tape
Hunt

You know the size of your target, from top line of back to bottom of belly, Y from ear to shoulder...........If you're shooting Hornady Precision Hunter 175 gr, you're looking at holding about 6" (200 yard zero) above your desired point of impact. For the price of one box of ammo you'll be ready.

It's not how I do it, but most hunters that practice with their set up do it this way with success."

I'd estimate that ethical shots on game made without dialing are 100x or more than shots that are dialed.

You are doing the Kentucky gravity method. And it is "close" but not at all precise. 6" at what range? Not a single human can hold exactly 6" at any distance. You may think you are, but you're not.

And we have tools available today where it does not have to be that way anymore.

I make precise elevation holds on animals many times a year. No time to dial, make a precise hold, and squeeze the trigger. 280 yards, right below the chin. That is quite a bit smaller target than 8" whitetail vitals.



And the O.P. jas already taken this to PM to cut out the noise.

Sometimes I would not have time to dial. LOL.

I get it, you are not capable of making a shot unless you have a pattern displayed on a screen in front of you to connect the dots.

You're wrong. I'm not doing "the Kentucky gravity method". It's not about what you or I can do. The 6" I stated was "about" and for 300 yards using the subject scope. I stressed being confident with his DOPE. The method you describe as Kentucky gravity would apply to all shots made without a mil reticle or dialing. Call it what you want but good, ethical hunters use it sucessfully. Myself, I'd dial it. But for the OP, his application and the subject scope, he doesn't HAVE to dial it, as you stated. Knowing your equipment, knowing your range, knowing the size of your target, it's what most hunters do as I described above.

Back before the proliferation of dial scopes when you had a duplex crosshair you could through range sessions, notes and lots of practice make shots on game further than most would or should shoot without taking the time and effort with whatever they are using even today.

Now days it is easy but in the in the 90s and early 2000s I was confident on deer size game to 500 yards with a duplex scope sighted at 200 yards as long as the wind wasn't crazy which still holds today the wind calls are the hardest part. I would go for my largest target the lungs and forget the brainstem shots but a shot through the lungs is just as lethal though not as fast. several deer and a couple pronghorns were taken cleanly with on shot in the 450 to 509 yards cleanly with one without dialing and with that scope you dial you better check because it didn't track accurately at all but stayed where you set it nicely. Without knowing what it would do i would not have attempted those shots.

These days almost all my shots are within 150 yards and most well under 100 yards so I am a set it and forget it man for my hunting. Shooting longer is still fun but not required for my hunting.

Absolutely right kmon. The first years of my big game hunting life was with a Leupold duplex reticle, whether it be a Vari X IIc, or Vari X III. I was using a 7mag, sighted 2.5" high at 100, and knew the reticle subtensions, and I killed game that way for 30 years. It isn't that hard, as you well know.

I'm just waiting for the "myself, my kids, and my cousins and their cousins have dialed more scopes and fired more dialed rounds in the past 5 years than you have your entire life" and nobody knows WTH their taking about but me" BS. Or getting challenged to some sort of target shooting competition BS.

Optics wise will put Meopta up against most though not in the Swaro/Leica category, but dang good for what I have used.

Exactly, that is what I described. With the subject scope, rifle and ammo I wouldn't hesitate to take a 400 yard shot on a good sized white tail buck without dialing. We shoot on paper at 100 and 200 yards. Shoot at steel, 8"Ø, at 300 and 400 yards. One of my hunting partners has a simple duplex reticle. Not a problem for him hitting steel at those ranges. Hunters have been, and are still doing it this way.

youll be fine Bobby

Yes Sir. I'll like it or not and if I don't I'll move it.

"The illiterate of the 21st century will not be those who cannot read and write, but those who cannot learn, unlearn, and relearn."

-Alvin Toffler

Millions of animals were easily killed way before this Alvin Toffler ever existed.

Arrogance, the personality trait whereby a person has an obnoxiously elevated sense of self-worth. An arrogant person is the one who acts as if they’re superior, more worthy, and more important than others. Therefore, they tend to disrespect and put others down.

Unlearn that you have to dial the scope that you stated “You HAVE to dial that scope” if you don't want to be included in Alvin Toffler’s definition.

I wouldn't own an moa scope on a centerfire rifle if you gave it to me. I could never remember any kind of windage adjustments or quickly do calculations if wind isn't exactly what I had memorized. It's an unnecessary handicap.

Sighted in a rifle for a buddy last night for a hunt today with his moa scope. There's no difference in MOA vs Mils - measure and dial. 2 shots. The difference is in windage calculations. If someone said "you missed 3" low and 8" right" and the target was 165 yards away, what good does that do you? You're going to hold what? How many MOA is that? Quick. Until we start thinking in MOA and Mils instead of inches, none of it really does you any good for quick scope corrections. If you're punching paper, as long as your reticle and your dials are in the same units, it doesn't matter. Usually if someone says "you're a foot high", you just hold a foot low as best you can judge. You're not dialing or using the reticle for that. But if you're trying to compensate for inconsistent wind for your first shot at a target, mils is just easier.

Slow brain and a fast mouth.

Go back to where I looked at the reticle, and look at the reticle yourself. It is junk.

Tell Bobcat to hold 1.5 Mil, 2.0 Mil, 2.5 Mil and the reticle will not allow it.

You are wasting your time with a few Fudds around here.

Ssshhh….the hunters are talking. You don’t have to hold in those values. And, you don’t have to dial that scope as you incorrectly stated. That is bad advice. Hunters can hunt with that scope and make ethical, clean shots on game.

Im not disappointed in this thread, I knew it would deliver!

The OP asked about a scope, he is buying scope, not using a scope he already has. I would think that one would want a reticle that can offer an advantage over a basic duplex since you are already making a new purchase. No Tremor or Horus needed, just simple sub tensions. I used a duplex for over 20 years, and had success, but there is no way I can pull off a shot with one and be as precise as I can with one that has sub tensions. Putting a bullet within 1” of my aim point on a deer at 350 yards is much better than guessing and putting it within 6”. Give yourself every advantage you have when possible.

My freezer is full of wild meat, that I killed. Same as every other year.

You don't have to have those values if you enjoy missing, gut shooting and/or taking guesses at being "hopefully close enough".

O.P. started a thread about a Mil scope. Since you do not know anything about them why don't you shh and sit down?

O.P. started a thread about a Mil scope and also preferring to make holds. That scope will not make Mil holds. The photo of the reticle clearly shows it. You do not know about Mils or MOA, yet you keep replying.

Even when we all agree that scope sucks

Some of you need to get a room and just get the leg humping over with

@J.G.: You're having trouble with reading comprehension and identifying the dynamic topic and context.

Not only are you wrong about having to dial the subject scope, you're wrong in your assertion that "you enjoy missing, gut shooting and/or taking guesses at being "hopefully close enough"." if you do it differently. Hunters make ethical shots on game in mass by knowing their DOPE and using a duplex reticle. I never stated to do anything that would lead to taking a shot and "hopefully being close enough". I stated the opposite. Learn your equipment, know your dope, be confident, know the size of your target and range.....all in my response.

I gave a response on how to use the subject reticle, which wasn't a mil reticle, so my response wasn't dependent on your assumption of my lack of knowledge on Mil. You don't know what I know, own or use.

I don't continue to reply on the subject of Mils or MOA, which you assume I know nothing about. I continue to reply because you gave bad advice when you stated that to use the subject scope, you have to dial it. He's a hunter, wanting to know how to use the scope for hunting that doesn't have a reticle with holds of any type. That was the topic, and my solution was relevant.

You are often wrong, but never in doubt. You should cut your losses and admit that you were wrong. But unless you have changed, you'll continue to make personal insults, have your customers dog pile on me and eventually the thread will be locked.

I wouldn't think of me so much as illiterate.... Maybe stubborn and lazy... Not illiterate at all. #1 I live within my means and buy the best I can to do a certain job. I'm not going to shoot matches or precision. I'm gonna kill deer, pig, or coyote etc. out to 500 yards or less. I like flat shooting calibers that take a lot of the hold over and wind out of it. 22-250, 25-06, 7mm PRC. I'll stick with those the rest of my life most likely.


At least I found out I might have a problem with the Meopta scope, corrected that by selecting a Athlon scope. Not worried about Athlon scope at all. I know MOA scopes. If I was retired and well off, I would go learn about Mil Mil scopes and how to use them.

At 67 I'll probably just stick to what I know. I've made plenty of high wind adjustments and never had to take a second shot that I can remember to kill a deer out to 432 yards. I can shoot and have used simple duplex scopes all my life. Mostly 3-9x50mm Leupold Vari x2.

I wonder how I can do with this MOA reticle with all the MOA dope from a ballistic chart? I bet even better.

Illiterate was not directed at you. You are trying to be literate, clearly by moving forward with a scope type that has been widely available for well over 20 years.

All ballistics calculations base trajectory from the same parameters.

Caliber
Bullet Weight
Ballistic Coefficient
Muzzle Velocity
Sight Height (measure center of the scope tube to the firing pin, with the bolt face right under the elevation turret. You'll be 1.8" ,1.9", 2.0" 2.1" somewhere in there.
Zero distance. And I zero everything at 100 yards, because you can get it perfect, with no real worry about what the wind is doing.

Then when the calculator has the field for elevation corrections, you plug in MOA. When the calculator has the field for wind corrections, you plug in MOA. Then go shoot those distances to confirm or deny those corrections. If the calculator and what you really shot, DOPE (Data On Previous Engagement) do not match, almost always you can adjust your Muzzle Velocity only, and get the calculator and the DOPE to line up. It is called, "truing the calculator".

But unlike some wood heads around here, you have exact places to hold on the reticle. Not just a long thin line with an educated guess to go by.

On the reticle you have, the bottom of the red portion is 10 MOA.

The calculator might say
200 yards 1 1/4 MOA, so hold the target (animal) at that value, below the center of the reticle
300 yards 2 1/2 MOA
400 yards 5 1/2 MOA
500 yards 8 MOA

You can leave your elevation turret on "0" and hold those values, if you prefer to hold.

I bet you’re right.

I love this reticle

I do too Buzz!

I like the floating center cross. That is a nightmare for wind holds. Where is 10 MOA? Why are we using MOA when mils is superior for just about the only thing you use a reticle for anyway?

MOA or MIL, it is still an angular measurement just in different measurement systems.

I would bet about every MIL guy on this thread has something on their rifle that is measured in MOA. It is a set it and forget it thing but still a MOA measured piece.

I never understood having scopes with MOA adjustment and MIL reticle but many manufactures must have. Guess it is their thought for transitioning people to MIL but if you are going to transition go all the way, why confuse people even more.

Bobby, I think you will be fine with your chosen scope.

My scope rings are mounted on a 20 moa Picatinny rail. Such a pain having to convert from moa to mil. Anyway, guilty, you busted me. Of all the things to bring me down!

20 MOA ÷ 3.43 = 5.8 Mil

Thanks, J.G.. I have a mil rail, no longer moa. On EGW's site it is misgendered as moa.

mil reticle and moa adjustments were done by engineers who didn't understand shooting.

He'll be fine with the scope he has, but definitely spend some time learning the subtensions on the reticle because the lack of labels is very confusing to me and I've been doing this for a while. And while trying to memorize the subtensions, he's also going to be forced to memorize weird MOA wind hold values and be able to quickly multiple and divide them. You absolutely can do anything on an MOA scope that you can do on a MIL scope...it's just an unnecessary difficulty thrown into the mix.

Mil-Mil was designed so shooters can hit a life saver at 50 yards. Mil-moa was designed by engineers that like to shoot the center of a life saver at 50 yards without breaking it.

10 MOA is at each end of vertical and Horizontal of the "floating" red cross. It looks like each line is 2 Moa to me...

Meopta makes great scopes.. had several

I think you're right.

As long as you know where it is, you'll be fine. Wind holds are a bit harder with MOA, but it overall looks like a pretty nice scope.

I think mil-mil and moa-moa are more about keeping one system in your mind and the reticle and the turrets functioning with the same calculations. Mil reticles with MOA adjustments is more about marketing/sales than engineering. We always had these MOA adjustment models, they just put a mil dot reticle in there to sell them better. That is why almost all the low end scopes have moa adjustments and a mil reticle. Funny with all the 3-9x scopes or etc, with mil reticles that are only true mil at 10x lol.

For sure the mil-mil reticle/adjustment comes from this line of thinking, and it is what snipers use for the most part. You can estimate range in mils and adjust in mils and hold for wind in mils. Less math, quicker results.

Reticles- i prefer a duplex or a cross hair. Leupold fine duplex is the #1 best all purpose reticle and gives you all the reference you need for holds out to any reasonable range. Maybe i am way behind the times lol. Duplex reticles are making a come back though thank God.

Meopta are fine scopes.

My DG coupon-receipt worth

One more thing- if I was in a contest to thread a bullet through a hole in a life saver -without hitting it- as far away as possible, i would pick a Leupold fine duplex, second focal plane scope with all the magnification i could get. Something like a 20x EFR. Just saying.

My, this thread has gotten windy.Meopta has made quality glass for eight decades. Have supplied glass for many companies Zeiss for one. I have several Meopta scopes. Non turret. I am a hunter. Will not shoot a whitetail beyond 150 yards and that is realistic. That is the only game animal I hunt. Use a 6.5 x 47 that does not bring enough power at much longer ranges. Think it would be interesting to ring steel at long range if I were younger and more motivated. Be realistic guys. You hunters are putting way to much scope on your rifle. Delusions of shooting at range. Please just don't unless you have the time and dedication to learn it well.

Hunting hogs and coyotes is still hunting.

I've shot 100:1 of them to Whitetail, Mule Deer, Elk, Pronghorn, Axis, ect.

Over 100 coyotes from 5 yards to 540 yards to date.

Over 100 hogs from 5 yards to 700 yards to date.

One must have the right scope to make those far shots.

^When you have slain thousands of varmints but don’t want to deal with the trolls trying to call you out^

Not all hunters want to limit their range to 150 yards. I'm a hunter that dials when the shot conditions dictate that it is necessary. As you state, it is interesting to ring steel at long range. We do it to verify our equipment so that we don't take unethical shots. The first time I dialed on an animal and killed it my hunting opportunities opened up in a big way. I've dialed on deer, hogs and coyotes (330-550 yards) 100's of times. Most of the time I hold. I don't know what you consider "way to much scope", but if you want to stretch things out beyond 150 yards ask here. You'll get some good advice based on your requirement.

delusions are thinking every one hunts over a corn pile @ <150 yards, and/or with excessive cover/blind


Realistic is knowing your limits are only your own.

I used to think like you. But my eyes were opened for me.

Meopta is introducing a new line of rifle scopes for hunters this year.

You get to do stuff like this:

This was after a 330 yard shot on a coyote. Dialed it, held dead on with a duplex reticle.

I thought Meopta rock solid until they did like many and wanted a larger market. Then you get the [censored] products at a lower price. Not unlike Husqvarna buying Poulan, they now have a “this is not what I wanted line, Optika” to grab the masses at an acceptable price. I’m not mad, their profits have to be up with more sales at a lower margin. Of course long term they have hurt their brand permanently. I’ll still buy Husqvarna made in Sweden but not Canada and Meopta made in the eastern block.

I have a Meopro 6X scope and the glass is crazy good. I was disappointed to see them discontinue the Meopro scopes,

think they replaced them with the Meopta 2

I think the Optika series was just an extension of the Meopro line---or at least it WAS for a time...I don't know about now. I have several Optika5s, and they are marked "Meopro." I never owned any of the older Meopro line so maybe the Optika series is not the same as the older ones, but I like these Optika5s just fine. I think they are every bit as nice optically as any VX-3 Leupold offered and maybe better. The adjustments work pretty well, too.