Just woke up from a long nap in the blind Looks like I have service (for now) and nothing is moving, so here is a quick update on the arrow tuning. You might think I’d went straight to bed when I dragged in from work last night, but no. I set up my targets to 35 yards, lit them up, and shot the 300 spine arrows with 100 grain inserts. They fly just as good as the 670 grain 250 spine arrows. I never made it to bed, I shot and shot and shot for about 2 hours just to verify everything and learn and confirm my poi with these 518 grain arrows. Then packed my stuff, and by the time I got done with that it was 3:45 AM and time to head to the woods.

I am not sure what happened. For starters, the large whisker biscuit probably made a instant difference. I shot the heck out of my bow this week, I’m sure my technique has gotten better. And I am fairly certain the string is stretched and my new bow is good and broke in now, it pulls noticeably easier and smoother. Maybe that just goes back to all my practice.

It’s crazy considering we nearly topped out the whisker biscuit adjustment at the shop, he shot my bow too and it left him scratching his head. That’s what it took to fix the paper tear. 30” 300 spine GT shafts. 112 grains up front including inserts. I could do no better with the same arrow 100 grains heavier in the nose when I got home, I only raised the rest even further to try to group the bare shafts or broadheads/field points together.

Switched out the whisker biscuit and I just had the 250’s on hand, shot the crap out of this bow every night and got her dialed in. Even if all I had was the space inside the tractor I just focused on driving that arrow perfectly straight into the block.

Bare shaft tuned at 15 one night, then at 20 yards couple nights later. Now my rest is near the very center of the range of adjustment, vertically and horizontally. Sighted her in and I can FINALLY see the housing of my sight in my peep the way I am supposed to. Shot out to 30 yards night before last and finally 35 yards last night at home.

At about 20 yards my 300 spine 518 grain arrow groups right in there with the 670 grain railroad spikes, about 2” high and centered. At 35 yards, my 518 grain arrow hits no more than 6” low vs the 670 grain arrows dropping by as much as 13”.

Despite the 120 grain difference in weight, both of these arrows are right around 17% FOC. If I swap the luminoc for the ultra light gold tip nocks on the “heavy load”, that drops my weight to just over 650 grains but boosts my FOC to about 19.5%.

I went from not able to group anything other than the exact same arrows, to putting bare shafts with field tips, fletched broadheads, fletched field tips, and arrows with completely different spines and weights in the same group. All by switching out the rest, making very small deliberate adjustments, and shooting the hell out of the bow. Like literally, every free moment I have had for the past work week I was slinging arrows.

It took me most of my spare time over the past two weeks to get here but it was worth it. I feel so much better knowing my bow is running or rather my arrow is flying like it should. Plus the 670 grain load gives me a max range of about 25 yards on my single pin sight, now I have 35 yards plus a little bit of room to fudge my hold over. Big difference! I still have more confidence shooting the heavy arrow in certain situations.

I keep the heavy arrow on the nock where the shots will be short and opportunity limited, so I can shoot deep in the V and break bone on a quartering shot. I keep the mid weight arrow on there the rest of the time.

Another benefit, unexpected, my arrows are definitely penetrating deeper in the target and they are harder to pull out. Shooting a Blackout-rebadged The Block. Great target.

Bryan,
I didn't read all the responses, but I read enough to say that kmon11 is right on the money. If the bow is dialed in tune-wise, or even if it's not, shooting form is still usually the most significant contributing factor. I don't shoot too much anymore (wish I had time), but when I was doing this religiously every day and setting other friends and customers up, the most significant factor, no doubt was shooting form. By nature, the two things I saw as the most common issues:

1. Wrist handle rotation - every shooter has a natural tendency to impart torque into the bow to turn the string away from their body prior to, during, and after the shot, it's how our body counters the force from pulling the bow back and is natural. It's a small amount, but it's there. Typically, to counter that, I used to teach people to place the center of the grip more on the meat of the thumb instead of the crotch of the hand and focus on deadening the wrist at this point, let it relax and maintain center through the whole shot.
2. Anchor point - I see a lot of current shooters, even 3D shooters, squeeze the string into their cheek. This creates an oscillation much like releasing with fingers, just not as significant. I barely touch the string on my cheek. Absolutely no pressure. It makes a HUGE difference in broadhead flight. Barely noticeable, if at all, with field points.

Lastly, I'd say this. There are aerodynamic principles that can't be broken. I always fletch my own with my Bitzenburger in a helical. Right now, I'm using Bohning Blazer vanes, which are fine, but I think if I were to redo things, I'd go back to something that worked out really well 25 years ago for me, prior to Blazers even being out, and that's four lower profile target vanes. They have less wake and turbulence, but having four of them ensures a firm hold on the rear of the arrow. Secondly, in concert with that, I strictly use relatively long 2-blade fixed heads. They have the most favorable aerodynamic properties, and steer the least of anything to include many mechanicals. My poison of choice is the Magnus Killer Bee, which is just the ventless Stinger. It has less drag than the Stinger with the vents and is much quieter as a result. It will zip through anything, and as a result, bleeds VERY well.

Congrats on getting it figured out Bryan.

Now that you have and shooting good it doesn't take much shooting to stay that way in my experience just do not go too long between. With one tuned good most of the time it is us the shooter that can become the issue. Just a few shots a day or two a week (practicing with purpose like it is the biggest buck you have ever seen as the target, picking a tiny spot and hitting it) goes a long way in keeping myself in tune for shooting basics and not letting bad habits creep in to the shooting form.

Mcdil good post and observations Wrist aka grip and anchor point are usually what I would get guys to change that came in with what they thought was a bow gone out of tune when it was the shooter

Bryan a straight flying arrow will always penetrate better since all the energy from the arrow shaft (weight) is applied directly behind the tip and very little shaft drag on the target be it archery target or game.

Good luck this season guys. I haven't seen any to pull the string on yet but will keep trying. Going to breakout the recurve, the Rib that I broke ahs healed and rarely feel it any more so will see if I can get back into form with it in time to hunt with it this year

Bryan,
Now that the bow is all tuned up, it’s time to tune up your mind. About a month before hunting season, I quit shooting groups. I go out with one arrow, shoot it, and quit for at least a few hours. It may be a waste of time for you but for me, it keeps me aware that I’m only going to get one chance on an animal and it has to count. It also helps your ability to shoot a bow “cold”. You may be able to put 10 arrows in a 2” target but when hunting, only the first one counts.

I really appreciate y’all. You guys nailed it. It may seem kind of childish, but when I make an observation I require confirmation from others that know, in order to build my confidence.

I figured out how to keep my bow inline on the follow through, based on my grip when I draw, so that when I relax my left hand the bow and my wrist are in line with the bones in my arm, in a straight line. To maintain forward pressure instead of dropping to the left when I release the string. Mostly on the meaty part of the palm . I also barely touch the string to my nose. My anchor point is to make a fist and put the top knocker of my index finger right in the crook behind my chin, in front of my ear. Brad taught me that, at Midwest Archery. I rarely throw one out left or right anymore, but when I do it’s only a couple inches off from the center. Inside my limited range my arrows are very accurate!

I adjusted my sights to strictly shoot with the heavy arrow because I shoot no longer than 30 yards. I don’t need the range of the lighter arrow and I don’t want to learn to shoot two arrows. But I might need that power. I worry about deer jumping the string, and hitting them in the spine. The way it is set up now, I can shoot one shot each at 10, 15, 20, 25, and 30 yards and the highest impact is about 4.5” above the center. Lowest is about 3.5” below center. That’s with 670 grains There are almost always two arrows dangerously close together when I shoot groups at varying distance like this but I haven’t broken any arrows this way (yet).

Also, my bow used to torque right with a loaded quiver. Shooting a single pin with slider, it had two posts to hold my quiver out away from all the hardware. I hack sawed all that crap off of it and nocked the burrs off with a file, and colored the bare metal with a sharpie. I can still adjust the sight, and I am dialed in. Best of all my quiver mounts tighter in to my bow and I now I can shoot it well with a loaded quiver I really like it this way, never planned to use the slider anyway.

Last night I started practicing with a single shot at 30 yards. I love Ted Nugent, I don’t care what anybody says. I listen to the Hunt Music album almost every day on the road, so I am trying to learn to shoot one perfect arrow every day. Pretty consistently hitting 3” low and center @ 30 yards holding on center. My goal is to learn the required holds to put the arrows dead center at any distance.

Picked up some of the “adder” small game heads, that you use with a field point. I keep two in my quiver. They have so much drag, my arrows fly no more than 2” above center out to 20 yards, that’s about as far as I’d risk slinging an arrow at small game. I guess that’s about perfect for small game hunting. I only hope that they are effective enough to stop my arrows in the animal.

Also snagged an Ameristep turkey blind for setting up in the brush. I will probably get another, since they are so small. But they are also light and handy. I keep picking up little pieces of gear here and there, I think I have spent over $1k on deer season this year. I have never bought so much crap for hunting season in the past, but I keep buying stuff. I know a bunch of gear isn’t necessarily going to make me a better hunter. I think I might have a problem.

Bryan,
That's great to hear! I'm glad we were all able to help you. It's so nice to see arrows, especially broadhead tipped ones shoot like nails! Been a long time since I've spent any time helping someone with a bow. I need to get back at it, to include helping myself, lol.