That's common bermuda. I'd mow it as low as you can and bag and trash the clippings on the first mow to bag up any weeds/seeds. Then go up a notch if needed, but keep it as low as possible. Mow it two-three times a week, fertilize and water. Get the bermuda thick, lush and healthy. Worry about weeds later. Once you're maintaining it on a regular basis see what your weed pressure is, what weeds they are and take it from there. If you want to keep it budget friendly. The Texas Turf fertilizer at Walmart 30lb $14.00 is a pretty decent fertilizer for that price.

Perfect, thank you! How long would you keep that process going for.

Also, that picture was from the main part of the yard, the other part of the yard in question, is literally nothing but weeds at this point (i'm pretty sure). Is that still what you recommend for that area? Or would I be better off just to kill off all the weeds, and then work on getting grass reestablished there?

It's a process I would keep up full time with adjustments. It's covered in weeds but there is Bermuda under that canopy of weeds , I'm betting. Mow the hell out of it. Fertilize the hell of it with 1lb of N per 1000 now. Then back off to 1/2lb N per month through October. You can increase more N if needed. Using the Walmart 15-5-10 budget fert that would be 6.5lbs of product per 1000 now, watered in. Then 3lbs per K every 4 weeks. Let that rock the next 8 weeks and then see what you're dealing with. Mow the hell out of it. If you've got nothing to do, go mow it. Get your cultural practices down now which is Mowing/Fert/Watering. Then you go after weeds. Good cultural practices will solve a lot of your issues.

Here is a good and simple fert calculator. It's N based, so go with that.

http://agebb.missouri.edu/fertcalc/

And if that's the main part pic, that it way too high. Mow low and often. Thank me later.

Lawn 911 needed !

Two large areas of my front yard, and several smaller sections of the back, have gone way south on me.

I did a pre emergent
I have fertilized twice this year.
It looked good early, except I had small patches (scattered patches the size of a dinner plate) that did not come back in the spring. I applied the DiseaseEx at the curative rate.
A few weeds...used Derek's magic formula and spot sprayed.
Put stuff down for grubs about a week after Derek said I should have.

It seemed to be better...most of the bare patches seemed to start to fill in, but not all. I applied a second application of DiseaseEx to a smaller area.

I was traveling for work over the last two - three weeks, not paying attention to the lawn....spousal unit was mowing it, but did not say anything was wrong. Suddenly I notice there are two very large areas i the front yard look dead. This is basically the entire area that started out the year with the small patches that did not green up normally. Maybe 1/5 - 1/4 my front yard. 10% of my back yard.

When I grab a handful and try to pull it up, the grass breaks off above the ground. The roots do not come up.

We had 1.75" of rain a week ago. We had 1.5" about a week prior to that. I watered once between the rains and watered again Friday night.

This is what I've got. These are the edges of the area. There are also large areas of the yard that look great.




This sod was installed in April of last year...it almost drowned form all the rain. I battled fungus issues last year, but had it looking good by the fall.

We did have army worms bad last year. I sprayed and used granules and the damage to the sod part of the yard seemed minimal.

Have you checked for cinch bugs???

Thanks Derek for responding to a PM.
Does not seem to be chinch bugs. Looks like I used the wrong type of fungicide and I am watering at the wrong time. Off to Home Depot after work for another $150 of chemicals and then reprogram the sprinklers

Took over my neighbor's lawn. She can't handle doing it herself. She hired tru green for 2yrs and go no results. So I asked her if she would mind if I took over. I will kill the weeds and fertilize at no charge. She will have her mowing crew do the mow still handle that part. I am only doing the front yard which is about 2500sq feet. She has dallis, KR Bluestem, dollar weed and whatever else you can think of. Mostly bermuda with a little St. Aug mixed in as the main turf. Goal is to use herbicides that do not take an applicators license and residential lawn approved. So I am not using msma which would be an easier way out. Going to use the best(cheapest) fertilizer I can find. Which is Walmart Texas Turf 15-5-10 for about $15 a bag.

Started it May 21st. This is what it looked like. I applied 1lb of actually Nitrogen per 1000sq feet via the TX Turf to get the Bermuda and St Aug as healthy as I could before applying herbicides.






Two weeks later June 3rd I applied herbicides. This is 3 days after application. You can see the Bluestem and Dallis turning purple.



This is yesterday June 13th, Pretty much looks like I hoped it would. Herbicides are really doing work. Going to need another application around July 1st for a clean up. I think a few weeks after that app I should have the weeds under control and will focus on pushing fert to get the bermuda or St Aug to fill in. Waiting for the weeds to die off good so I can see how much of each is there before I decide which turf type I will cater to.

Derek, what did you use to kill the KR Bluestem without killing the grass.

TPACK. A mixture of Revolver, Celsius and MSM with a MSO surfactant. And it's working better than I expected. Revolver is the boss in that mix but needs some kicker to get that A. Sticker shock on Revolver and Celsius is real. Revolver is needed if you have a lot of KR or Dallis. Bottle of any or those will last you a long time if not forever pretty much. Don't spend the money on Revolver unless your have too. On your lawn and you spraying and it's clean. Celsius, Certainty, MSM should be your jam for summer.(no high temp restrictions). Anytime you're looking to split a bottle of this or that let me know.

Dr Fert Squirter:

Got my RX filled at Lowes and dossed about 20,000 sqft of sod with 8 bottles of Bio Advance Fungus Stuff

Sprinklers reprogrammed to water half the yard in the morning, starting at 4:00. The other half the yard goes tomorrow morning at 4:00.

Going with twice a week with 40 min each zone. According to my water bill last year, that gets me close to 1" per week.

Gonna fertilize again this weekend, with the 13-13-13 stuff.

The lawn care bill sure adds up with 20,000 sq ft of turf and another 20,000 of native stuff (just twice a year fertilizer and bug killer on that).

I seem to remember you saying the spraying instead of granular could save money. Is it worth me gearing up to apply liquid stuff for this size yard? If so, what size tank do I need for managing 20,000 sqft at a time?

Nak. You got a lot going on. At 20K I would probably buy a Northstar towable and do some mods and outfit it with Teejets. Plenty of youtubes on it. I'm still a huge fan of granular and squirt ferts. I like granular NPK. You can find some good and cheap ones sometimes like the Walmart one I posted. It's pretty good for $15. Foliar, you can run NPK, fungicides, herbicides, pesticides at a fraction of the price. You can't be willy nilly about it and your measurements and calibration have to be on point. But take Prodiamine pre-emergent as an example. What you would save spraying it vs granular would pay for the sprayer in 1.5yrs tops. I pretty much add a 1-1-1 fert to all sparys or a 1-0-1.It might be a low amount, but it's there.
;
This goes for anyone with irrigation You need to monitor each zone and not go off a water bill or the 10 minutes a zone theory. They are all different. I have 8 zones on 5k and some are 5 minutes and some are 50. Get 3-4 of the same rain gauges and place them in a zone. Run it for 20 or 30 minutes and see what the gauges read. That will let you know how long to run the zone. I like to run it and apply 1/2" of irrigation at a time, twice a week with this heat, starting at 4am. I'm a Tuesday and Saturday schedule right now. I'll adjust that if and when we get any rain.

Fresh cut and edge wanted to do it before it go too hot but man was it wet and thick from the dew. Had to dump my clippings bag 6 times to get it done.

Awesome.

Haha much appreciated sir!

I'm like a entitled brat that just got his drivers licenses, so daddy bought him a Ferrari for passing the test.


Based upon enablement from Derek, I purchased a 30 pull behind sprayer with a boom, to tow with the ZT.

Filled it with water and covered the ~20K of turf and a idle and about half stick...maybe 2 - 3 mpg. About 18 gallons of water. Now I have info to work with.

Filled tank with 15 gallons and dumped in 3 1/2 gallons of the only liquid turf fertilizer they had at tractor supply (6,000 sqft/gallon application rate) ....plus 8 oz of blue dye, which was supposedly going to help me tell what I had covered and what I did not.

This beat the heck out of the walk behind spreader, where the end result was nowhere near the application rate intended (Usually about half,so I had to cover the yard a second time, and still got strips of green).
Blue dye was not so good. I could not see it at all on green grass. It was visible on the areas that are brown from the fungus I am fighting. Finished up with less than a 1/2 gallon left, which was perfect for hitting the corners, where the boom sprayers did not get to.

@DereK
So what is the preferred liquid magic and where do I get it from? Russel Feed does not stock anything. Tractor Supply only had one option that was straight fertilizer, and it was $25/gallon (still less than half the cost of granular), If I'm going to do this monthly, I need to buy in bulk or by the case.

Oh Yea....now both my white and orange Brittany's have iridescent aqua feet. How long will it that the to wear off?

In general granular is a lot cheaper than liquid. Might night seem that way by marketing and a general glance of the label. You are paying a lot of money for water and a little bit for fertilizer. You will be better off buying a water soluble granular and tanking mixing your own. What Tractor Supply product did you use? I'll run some cost numbers for you on that product vs a popular water soluble product.

Blue Dog

Does that make him a Democrat?

Blue Dog




I bought the sprayer for weed control and fungicide. I picked up the liquid fertilizer to try out the sprayer with. Now that I have tried it, it seems better than spreading granular.

Gordons Triple 10 is what I put out. One of the neighbors is using it and thinks it is doing a good job,

The application rate was listed as 1 gallon per 6000 sqft, but that calculates out on only putting 1/5# nitrogen per 1000 sqft/application. Does not sound like much... What application rate should I be shooting for, if I'm going to fertilize monthly during the growing season?

If there is a good water soluble, please point me toward a good water soluble product

Going to using Peters Profession 20-20-20 water soluble vs Gordon’s 10-10-10 1 gallon liquid.

Peters 25lb bag on DMO is $65.00

1gal Gordon’s at TSC is $25.00

Rule of thumb when spraying is 0.10lbs of Nitrogen per 1000, Up to 0.20lbs if your are using a high carrier volume of like 2gals per 1000. 0.10lns of N per 1000 and your safe to leave on the surface. If you spray 0.20 with a low carrier volume of 1gal per 1000 you need to irrigate soon after spraying as you do run a chance of leaf burn. All that said.

Peters: .10lbs of N per 1000 takes .5lbs of product per 1000. That comes to a cost of $1.30 per 1000sq feet.

Gordons: .10lbs of N per 1000 takes 12fl ounces per 1000. That comes to a cost of $1.86 per 1000sq feet

This is an application I would make twice a month during the growing season. 1st and 15th of each month would be a good timeline.

$0.56 per 1000 savings doesn’t seem like much. But you add that over a large square footage over a growing season and it adds up. Then look at the label of Peters vs Gordon. Much better NPK sources in the Peters and has mircos added and it’s cheaper.

I haven't shopped around for the Peter's to see if it's cheaper anywhere else. You can also check your local Site One or Ewing and see that they have. You could stop by there and get prices and what the actual product is and I should be able to look it up.

Thanks Derek

You Da Man!!!!

Not bad for the summer heat.

Not bad at all. I was blessed with .70 inch of rain yesterday for the first time in almost 2 months. Gonna give my well as rest few a few days.

Lowes has a ton of their Lesco granular on clearance. Specially their Stonewall and Dimension pre emergent. Most of the ferts are too. Downside is online will show you the price but doesn't tell you what stores are running the clearance so you physically have to stop by and look. Worth a quick pop in if you're close to one.

https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=lesco

Loaded up on the clearance sale. Got Stonewall at $11.53 a bag and the opened bag for $6. Got the Lesco 20-5-10 for $15.98.. If you buy 5 bags you get an extra discount. Got all but one bag of each that I'm keeping sold to the neighbors.