Derek, I used the Celsius WG and MSM as directed and it really did a good job on the clover and oxallis. I could have used maybe 2 more gallons of the mix. What is your thought on using this mix again at this time or would it be better to wait until Spring?
I found the products needed on Ebay in a smaller quantity .

Thanks for your help!

Now that my bermuda has slowed down growing I am seeing a few areas that have bluestem. Is there anything that will kill this stuff off other than spot spraying?

You could roll with that. I have no issues there. Just want to make sure you have a good gram scale. Those need to be measured out precisely. 0.3 grams of MSM is like 10 pellets. It's a very little amount. You also have other options in St Aug specially with these cooler temps. Go with Image Southern or Atrazine. The hose end products are ok. But I would buy the concentrate and mix my own. Follow the label directs on the amount to mix. Add a little ammonium sulfate to the mix and a surfactant if the label says to do so.

Besides roundup there are no DIY products that will kill it. Spot spraying is your best option. I freaking hate bluestem.

If you've considered getting a backpack sprayer. HD deal of the day is a Chaplin 24v sprayer for $123.00. That's a good deal.

https://www.homedepot.com/SpecialBuy/SpecialBuyOfTheDay

And a solid manual pump model is the Solo 475-B Deluxe. Made in USA.

Derek, I replaced the hose and wand assembly with the "dfw wand" from TLF and have a few Teejets. This setup works great for me.

That DFW wand setup is really nice. I need to build one. I only use Teejets. Love them.

Good little reference for lawn idiots like me

More winter boredom has set in so I'm running numbers on lawn care for next year. Here's what I've come up with.

2022 Lawn Care Cost 5000sq feet
Granular Fert $60.00
Scotts GrubEx applied Early-Mid April at twice the bag rate $30.00

Everything else below I spray for the most part: Keeps my cost per 1000 way down.

Pre emergent:

Simazine/Prodiamine/isoxaben
Isoxaben $40.00 Yearly Cost
Prodiamine $4.00 Yearly Cost
Simazine $1.25 Yearly Cost

Fungicides

Scotts Disease EX. (this I still apply as granular as I just haven’t bought the liquid form yet)

Approx 3 applications a year $15.00 per app $45.00yr cost

Clearys 3336 $52.00 Yearly cost 3 apps per year

Eagle 20w $50.00 yearly cost 3 apps per year

Insecticides:

Not going to bother to itemize these as there are so many different kinds you can go with. For what I use my yearly cost is about $35.00

Post Emergent:

Not going to bother to itemize these either. There are a ton of them and I don’t use a lot and they are cheap. Yearly cost is $22.75 and that number is high.

Optional Products:

Iron/Micronutrients

Feature: $60 a year applied at 2oz per 1000 twice a week.

Elemental sulfur apps, growth regulators, misc products. $100 on the high side

Yearly cost. $500.00

So about $40.00 a month cost.

Notes: $500 a year is a little pricey. Though I am a bit more extreme than most. I could easily cut our Isoxaben, fudge on my fungicides, make some other adjustments to save cost. But at the end of the day I’m doing more than a service like Tru Green would do at a cheaper price.

Write up I did for the TFF. We can run this a thousand different ways. But a decent basic program.

This will cover the I-35 and I-45 corridor. Soils Dallas to San Antonio to Houston aren't that far off. East TX is where things start to change. Central TX might have more potassium, Houston might have more phosphorus. Without a soil test I'm not going to recommend a Phosphorus fert. Nitrogen is a give and Potassium is consumed pretty quickly as well during the growing season so we will go with those. .

Basic program. And I will take this 2 directions. This is going to be without getting a soil test done we’re going to go with just a high nitrogen fert like Scotts Southern Turf Builder.

Pre Emergent.

February 1st-15th. And August 15th-30th. Apply Lesco Stonewall, sold at Lowes at 3lbs per 1000sq feet. Water in well.

Elemental Sulfur. Helps fight your high soil Ph for nutrient uptake.

May 1st and August 1st. Apply 5lbs per 1000sq feet water in well. There are 2 brands. Martin sold at Lowes and Tiger 90 sold at Tractor Supply

Mid April apply Scotts GrubEX. This will do a couple things. It will not kill the grubs currently in the ground. It will kill the new grubs that hatch on the soil and try to enter into the ground. And if we get a Armyworm outbreak like we did this year it will control them too.

Fertilizer:

This is where I go off the rails a bit and the one time I don’t follow the label recommendations. And this is where I will go a couple different directions.

I prefer to apply more applications at lower amounts. Bermuda I’m going to target 0.5lbs of Nitrogen a month. St. Aug I’m going to go at 0.3lbs per month. +/-

So the Scotts Southern Turf Builder 32-0-10

First weekend of every month from April-October

Bermuda 2lbs per 1000
St. Aug 1lb per 1000

You will get a good 4 week response at those rates. If you're needing to push growth to fill in some bare spots you can increase those rates a bit.

Route 2. Holiday schedule. This is where I would follow the Scotts lable rate. The Scotts label rate is going to put down 0.9lbs of Nitrogen with 10% of it being slow release.

Easter
Memorial Day
July 4th
Labor day

The holiday schedule is what I have my boss on with the Scotts Southern as he wants to do the least amount of apps possible and he gets great results.

End of the year thoughts and plans for next year?

How did your lawn come out of the hard freeze from last year and preform? Did you push your lawn harder or less hard with fertilizers, weed killers, watering, and so on. If so with either way, what were the results. Good/bad things indifferent you will/won't do next year? Things you want and or planning on improving next year?

Me. I had an ok year. I got a new to me mower and was experimenting a lot on the different heights of cut with it. Did a July hard scalp and the lawn looked horrible for a couple weeks but bounced back nicely. I backed down on the fert and I could see a performance difference. Mine is bermuda 419 I assume with some patches of common mixed in. My ultimate goal will be to mark the common patches and kill it off and plug it with the 419 and have a more total coverage of it. May or may not get to it as the lawn will look horrible for a solid 60-90 days or so if I do. Other than that I plan to push it a lot harder next year.

I think I may try K-8 but I was very impressed with the 15-5-10 as my yard improved exponentially. My yard guy hated my azz so I consider that a success and the crepe myrtles bloomed bigger than they ever have

Do you do anything special to give the crepe myrtles a boost for the blooms?

Increase your fertilizer and kind of fertilizer. Depending on your area your soil could be deficient in Phosphorus. That's the middle number on the bag. You can use a 3-1-2 like Beez, or a 1-1-1 If you'll post your location I can probably tell more and make some fertilizer recommendations.

I'm just west of FW in the Aledo area, have never had any soil analysis done. I pretty much use your lawn method on my bermuda (once a month at reduced rate) and that works great for me! I usually just feed everything in the beds with Miracle-Gro (24-8-16) about once a month. Appreciate any advice!

I have no major issues with MG. If you want to continue to use that, that's fine. Though you might need to apply a little more and at wider area to make sure you're getting all the feeder roots. I think you should look at a product like Jacks 20-20-20 water soluble product for soil drenches. Your soil is probably well over 7ph which will lock up nutrients and not make them available for uptake. The phosphorus in jacks is readily available for root uptake. You can find it on amazon and a dealer locator on their site. Jack's is a Jr Peters company and used by tons of turf pros.

I would add a teaspoon or so of citric acid per gallon of solution you mix. This will acidify the solution a lot and help with uptake

What fert are you using on your lawn? I have 4 crepes and they bloom great. What I do is to make sure to spread granular around them every 2-4 weeks when I do the lawn. I honestly don't measure the amount I use. I just eyeball it and hand toss it. It's more than I apply to my lawn per 1000. I just kinda wing it. Crepe's are big feeders and can handle it.

https://www.jrpeters.com/jacks-classic

My crepes are in my st. Augustine at it really roared this year on 3-2-1. Nothing burned up and I hit the st. Augustine hard as the bermuda just really did not take it as well. I need to get a soil test done.

Trimmed up my lemon tree last weekend and decided to see if I can get the cuttings going to make some new trees.

Very nice. Our orange tree produced fruit for the first time this year. I was afraid I killed it by leaving it outside day one of the winter freeze in Feb.

Nice. I bought this one earlier this spring and got 6 nice lemons this year. I've read the improved meyer can produce year round. It's currently blooming like crazy and setting new fruit.

Wanting to get the yard in shape this coming year. Need a recommendation for a good soil test TIA

https://waypointanalytical.com/

I get the Complete S3M test.

They will have details for collecting samples. Also, see https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=7162.

I use Waypoint too. I don't like the S3M test because it is only a mehlich 3 extraction. The downside to a M3 test is it over reads Phosphorus if you have a high Ph soil like most of us do. If you do a M3 whatever your P number comes back at. Divide that by 3 and you will have a truer reading. A&M only does M3 test. Waypoint recommends if you live in TX is to do the SW1 test. They do an Olson method on P. Then they will run P again using the M3. They will show both results on the test. M3 is always way higher.

Good info, Derek, thanks.

Do you use Waypoint app? Not the most user friendly app there is but I like how they upload your results to it. Easy to keep track of. Love their quick turn around time too.