I don't use the app. Yes, they are fast and good pricing as well.

So you send the sample to CA? What's the cost for the S3M? I really don't want to fill in a bunch of info only see it's cost prohibitive.

I send mine to TN. S3M is $16.50.

Ok, cool. Thanks a lot.

Yes. Make sure to send it to TN. Like MM mentions the S3M is $16.50 and the SW1 is like $25ish. I'm sure they've had a price increase on them for this year, like anything else. Make sure you're collecting your soil samples correctly. Follow Waypoint guide or A&M guide. There are also tons of YT's on how to collect samples. Stay away from My Soil YT's test kits and samples and you'll be fine. When I get time tomorrow, I'll fill out a sample sheet and post it to help walk you through it. Pretty simple process.

Appreciate the help.

Jimbo what is your turf and location? GP or Moran? Square footage? Trees, or more sun?

GP. Maybe 1500sq ft fescue in the front and 500sq ft St Augustine in the back. Mostly full sun.

Wow. You're like the only the 3-4th person I've talked to running fescue in NTX. Small square footage. Should be able to dial you in easily and cheaply.

https://www.waypointanalytical.com/SubmittalSheets#

Click on Tennessee. If you want the SW1 click on the Western Soil Sample Submittal Form. If you want the S3M click on Soil Sample Information Sheet. Put your soil in a ziplock and mail/ups it and the form to the address in the top right. Within 24/48 hours of them receiving it they will call you for CC info. They will email your results and upload them to the app if you use that shortly after payment.

Here is how to collect soil samples. It's not necessary to pull samples from your backyard or flowerbed. Just pull them from your front yard and you'll be good to go. You can get soil probes on Amazon for $12-25. Or just use a shovel. Make sure to use the soil that is about 4" below the surface.

https://www.waypointanalytical.com/...t-AF1SoilSamplingforHomeLawnsGardens.pdf

I have no idea why I said fescue, guess it's really Bermuda.

Perfect. You'll want to run 2 different programs for the front and back. In the front with St. Aug you will run to run less nitrogen, make your fungicide apps are on point and pay close attention to what herbicides you use. The bermuda "party in the back" you can go a bit more full throttle. Once you get your test back we can see what you need to do. Test just the front for the St. Aug for show. Tayloring it to the bermuda will be easy. And if you want it to look great this year. Be prepared to mow your azz off. Good cultural practices of mowing, watering and proper fertilizing will get you where you want.

Cool beans, thanks again Derek.

Is it too early for Poa Annua to be growing? I had it last year pretty bad. I bought a push mower with a bagger last winter and bagged my grass all year instead of using my ZTR. I mowed and bagged it @ less than an inch last march trying to get a jump on keeping the seeds out of my lawn. I also put out my Prodiamine pre-emergent and got it watered in before germination this past fall (9-8-21). I have absolutely no weeds or grasses of any kind that are growing in my Tiff 419 right now. Is it too early or did my gameplan work.

It's Poa season but I haven't seen any of it yet. My neighbors and my moms backyard is typically covered in it and no signs of it year. I'm thinking the warm Oct-December we had has it delayed. I think we'll see it in Feb. I am seeing Rescuegrass and have been for awhile, so the warmth didn't delay it. Great job getting the Prodiamine out. That will help a lot. Push your dates up a little. You want to target August 15-20th and February 15-20. Lesco Stonewall is the currently the best priced granular Prodiamine on the market that I've seen.

I actually have a little bit of Poa that came up on the west side of my driveway, but it is not a part of my lawn that I spray or applied Prodiamine to last fall. It's been there for a while but isn`t growing or very green since we have had zero rain . My lawn has absolutely no Poa present so far. I almost know that it was growing pretty good by this time last year.

Nice. I went back through my photo album after you mentioned it. My neighbor was covered in it in March. This was like March 23rd. I had scalped about 3 weeks prior to this pic. All the green spots on the right is his Poa. I'll watch it closer this year and see what happens.

with the upcoming ice storm later this evening (at least in central TX) and lows projected down into the upper teens ... what needs to be done, if anything, for rose bushes? we have about 9 knockout bushes and 7-8 other rose bushes ... need to cover?

A lot of pre-emergent talk lately. A few threads on it. Good to see. Here is the lowdown. The 3 big dogs are Prodiamine, Dithiopyr and Pendimethalin. IMO Prodiamine is the best on the market. Great spectrum of weeds controlled and a very long soil residual. Dithiopyr being second and Pend bringing up the tail end. Trade names are (Prodiamine) Stonewall, Barricade. (Dithiopyr) Dimension, (Pendimethalin) Scotts Halts, Lesco PRE-M. Yes I know Neil Sperry recommends Dimension, Halts and a couple others. And that's fine. I'm not sure why he doesn't recommend Prodiamine. It's newer technology so maybe he's not as familiar with it as he's more old school. I might call in and ask him. Anyway. If you have used those products and like them great. We'll cover it. The above mentioned is more for grassy weeds like crab, and dallis, But they cover broadleafs too. A much better broadleaf is isoxaben aka Gallery. But it's so damn expensive and broads are easy to kill we leave it out of the program/discussion.

Whatever pre emergent you like is fine. Prodiamine being the longest soil residual(longest lasting), Dithiopyr being second and Pend the least. I'm going to keep this simple. As regular DIY, home owners we want to make the least amount of applications as possible(besides fertilizer). Gives us more garage beer time. This I agree with when it comes to pre emergent. Easily to forget about those apps. Specially when Neil says make an app now and another 100 days from then as a kicker. He's right but ain't nobody got time for that.

Check the product you like and what the max per year rate is. It's on the lable. If it's Prodiamine which I will pic. Get the total per year which is 5.05 per 1000. Divide that by 2 and do Feb 15th and Aug 15th. If it's Dith divide it by 3 and do Feb 15th, May 15th, Aug 15. If it's Pend divide by 4. Stay on a yearly religious schedule and you'll like your results.

Yes. There will be weeds that will break the barrier. It's not 100%, but very effective. Stay on it guys.

Why are there two phosphorus readings that are different? What are optimal numbers for this report?

Two different testing methods. The first one with the 4ppm is done with what is called an Olsen test. In high Ph soils like most of TX the Olsen test is the most accurate for measuring P. They use the M3 (Mehlich 3) test for B, S, Fe, Mn, Cu, Zn on the above report. M3 also test P so they put that on the bottom to show you what the M3 showed. Which you can see is a lot higher and almost always is. The above is a Waypoint SW1 test. If you use Texas A&M they only do a M3 across the board. So when you get your results divide the P by 3 and you will have a more accurate P number.

Haven’t seen estimated rain amounts yet. If you don’t have irrigation getting your pre emergent down before next Wednesday and letting nature water it in is probably your best opportunity

Finally got my test results back, but not what I was expecting. Have been applying a 32-0-10 with iron or similar fertilizers 2-3 times per year. It took me 3 seasons to finally learn that Nitrogen drives the bus. 10,000 sq. ft. Tifway 419 new sod was laid on 10-19-2017 / new construction. Soil amendments I have added yearly are Andersons Humic DG @ 40 lbs. per year. Pennington fast acting Gypsum,30 lbs. per 5,000 sq. ft. per year, last 3 years. Applied to only half of the lawn with poor drainage. Applied an organic fertilizer/ organic matter(AKA Snake Oil) from TSC. I applied this last spring only. Lawn has improved every year. I let the weeds get out of hand the first year due to no Pre-Emergent, but it has improved every year since and 100% bagging last year is paying off now.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...ick_id=3881517957&clickId=3881517957

Pretty standard TX soil test. High Ph, Calcium, Mag. That’s a M3 test on Phosphorus so divide that by 3 and it puts you a 2ppm. Don’t worry about the N on the test. The iron on your test is not plant available. With a soil Ph well over 7 the iron is bound up in the soil and not used. Sounds like you were using Scotts Southern Turf Builder. 3 apps a year of that at bag rate will give you a little under 3lbs of actual nitrogen per 1000. Which for Bermuda is a pretty low amount. At a minimum I would be looking to target 4lbs of N per year. I’m not a fan of bagging clippings but that is your call. If bagging I would pump my N number up significantly. Ditch the humic and gypsum. Talk to your local farm/feed store or independent nursery. See if they can get MAP (Monoammonium phosphate) 11-52-0 or DAP (Di-ammonium Phosphate) 18-46-0. Preferably MAP as it has a slight acidifying effect which is what you want. Either of those along with Ammonium Sulfate and Elemental Sulphur is your friend. So your program would look something like this.

April 1st Ammonium Sulfate(AMS) 2.5lbs per 1000 – 5lbs of Elemental Sulphur per 1000
May 1st MAP or DAP 2lbs per 1000
June 1st AMS 2.5lbs per 1000
July 1st MAP or DAP 2lbs per 1000 – 5lbs of Elemental per 1000
Aug 1st, September 1st, October 1st – AMS 2.5 lbs per 1000 and on September 1st do 5lbs of Elemental per 1000

I’m being pretty conservative on the nitrogen amounts. 2.5lbs per 1000 is giving you 0.5lbs of actual N per 1000. If you’re bagging I would increase that. If you wanted to go to 0.75lbs of N that would be 3.5lbs per 1000. If you’re going to apply a higher amount like that it would really be better if you split it into two applications a month 1st and 15th. This is 100% fast release nitrogen so make sure to water it in well.

Realistically you could run the above the next two years. Retest and see where your P/K numbers are at and probably be able to switch to a 3-1-2 program like a 15-5-10. MAP/DAP will be your toughest product to source. I’m pretty sure BWI is a distributor or those so your local store should be able to get it. AMS is easy to find. $20ish per 50lbs bag. Your local store can easily get it from APF. Elemental can be found at most Tractor Supply’s. Tiger 90 is the brand. If they don’t have it Lowes stocks the Martin brand. Same product, but the Tiger 90 is filtered better so the prills are more uniform.

I know the above seems kinda complicated and a PITA. I totally get it. That’s your best approach. If you want to take a more easy and lazy approach which I would understand. You could go with a product like APF 13-13-13 which is a mostly Ammonium Sulfate based nitrogen source which is what you want. Your app rates will be a little different, but the dates the same. You’ll also want to stick with the elemental app rates and dates.