I put 13 good controlled hits of 110gr Controlled Chaos in animals last weekend and I’m not sure they lived up to the expectations the internet gave me.
I wont throw them away but I would be hard pressed to buy any more at their premium. I had 2 solid neck hits run off showing no immediate effect that I’m certain would have been drt with 135gr ftx or 130gr HHC, and probably the same with 150gr BTSP #2022 & 125gr TNT. Both had bled out and were buzzard tracked the following day and given a cursory examination for as long as I could hold my breath.
The female yote actually surprised me by her lack of immediate respect for being dead by the miracle bullet. She piled up about 10 yards from the boar that was shot a couple minutes earlier. Unfortunately she dove into a mesquite thicket & I couldn’t bribe my apprentice to go int and fetch her out of it because of its history of large nope ropes.
I’ve stacked another couple thousand TNTs but I was actually really impressed with the test loads of 110gr Vmax doing the same 2640ish FPS as the CC. The CC test animals exhibited 1 exit wound seen in the hog video. 120#+- boar shot low in the brisket at 25yds. The Vmax had exit wounds on most of its targets from 40-120# Boars and also performed above expectations on a 250+# boar that it hit high in the shield, pulverized a vertebra, and then passed through and exited the back side of the hog a few inches below the top of the loin.
I put 13 good controlled hits of 110gr Controlled Chaos in animals last weekend and I’m not sure they lived up to the expectations the internet gave me.
I wont throw them away but I would be hard pressed to buy any more at their premium. I had 2 solid neck hits run off showing no immediate effect that I’m certain would have been drt with 135gr ftx or 130gr HHC, and probably the same with 150gr BTSP #2022 & 125gr TNT. Both had bled out and were buzzard tracked the following day and given a cursory examination for as long as I could hold my breath.
The female yote actually surprised me by her lack of immediate respect for being dead by the miracle bullet. She piled up about 10 yards from the boar that was shot a couple minutes earlier. Unfortunately she dove into a mesquite thicket & I couldn’t bribe my apprentice to go int and fetch her out of it because of its history of large nope ropes.
I’ve stacked another couple thousand TNTs but I was actually really impressed with the test loads of 110gr Vmax doing the same 2640ish FPS as the CC. The CC test animals exhibited 1 exit wound seen in the hog video. 120#+- boar shot low in the brisket at 25yds. The Vmax had exit wounds on most of its targets from 40-120# Boars and also performed above expectations on a 250+# boar that it hit high in the shield, pulverized a vertebra, and then passed through and exited the back side of the hog a few inches below the top of the loin.
It's been awhile since I've shot any hogs with the 110gr CC, but as I can remember there were no failures to kill cleanly. However I have been shooting several hogs (23 over the past 3 weeks) with the 95gr CC and all but one was a DRT kill with barely a kick. One was poor shot placement and ran 40yds or so. Three of these were good sized boars and one a big sow.
This being said, if you shoot them in the center of the neck all 300 HAM'R suitable bullets except the 125gr FMJ will reliably kill hogs.
I should rephrase it to say I had higher expectations from reading a lot of internet stuff & seeing tons of Instagram videos where CC were used. It performed as the company advertising suggests with Limited pass throughs & excellent fragmentation.
I need to clarify that the 110gr CC didn’t really fail at anything. All the hogs that took one were collected within 50yds of where they were hit. It just didn’t excel at anything I that I was hoping it would and I feel through experience that most of those hits with my other proven bullets would have produced the same results. My big hope after seeing too many perfect IG videos was that neck or thoracic hits on runners would pile most of them up on the spot. It tore them up fine but a handful still made it into thick cover & 1 made it across a property line.
I was using these next to my son who was using the 110gr VMAX test loads and part of my bias that I see rereading my post is that the vmax performed so much better than I had expected. The vmax wounds at the same velocities were relatively devastating and the bullet appears to have remained intact as it exited. No Vmax we’re recovered. All passed through the neck with the exception of 1 that entered a downed hog through the sternum and exited 13” later through the abdominal wall.
2500-2300fps may be a real sweet spot for impact velocities for the Vmax projectile. We were only loading 1 or 2 rounds on the top of the mag because I was worried it would disintegrate on impact with bone or shield. Not the case in any of the test animals. I was nearly amazed that it pulverized that vertebra and exited intact on the larger hog we shot with it.
I have a question regarding POI change with different projectiles.
I see ~3" (left-up) POI shift from 125TNT (target load) to 135FTX (hunting load). Is that normal? How do you generally deal with POI shift? Choose a single projectile and stick with it? Write down POI shift and adjust your scope? How consistent POI across different environmental conditions (Temperature , Elevation etc)?
Of all of these random pop up online firearm and firearm accessory shops Battlehawk Armory has consistently impressed me the last 2 years. Not just on availability (most all share the same distributors), but price, and shipping costs/speed. https://battlehawkarmory.com/product/30-cal-308dia7.62mm-135-gr.-hp-500-rounds $304.69/1,000 shipped.
Keep HAM'Rin Away! Happy and safe reloading y'all.
I have a question regarding POI change with different projectiles.
I see ~3" (left-up) POI shift from 125TNT (target load) to 135FTX (hunting load). Is that normal? How do you generally deal with POI shift? Choose a single projectile and stick with it? Write down POI shift and adjust your scope? How consistent POI across different environmental conditions (Temperature , Elevation etc)?
There are a ton of variables here. Some barrels will shoot multiple loads to the same POI and some won't. I've had pretty good luck finding at least a couple of loads that will shoot within 1" of each another and usually just stick with these unless I'm doing bullet testing.
I've only seen a POI shift due to environmental change when going from NE TX at 350ft to out west at over 6000ft
Like the Meister above I’ve found that some of my loads fall reasonably within POI to others. Namely my perfect zero for my 125gr TNT has about 1” POI shift for my 110gr CC & 110gr VMAX.
The 135gr ftx and 150gr BTSP POIs don’t come close enough to use on game without rezeroing. Every couple weeks I’ll drop a couple zero confirmation shots when I’m sticking with the same primary ammo but if I’m Changing it up to something that falls more than an inch or 2 out of the mean group size at 100 I’ll zero to it.
IMO this is a woods gun. It’s not F class so I don’t keep a data book to dial back and forth. Even on my thermal’s saved zeros I’ll put a confirmation shot on a HDPE target when I’m swapping back and forth.
New to the Forum and new to the 300 HAM'R. finally stopped long enough to fairly evaluate this cartridge is based on wading through the comments, interaction, and experiences documented throughout this thread (all 73 pages). Aside from the math/performance being confirmed by numerous unaffiliated shooters, the one thing that won me over was Bill Wilson's active engagement with the members of this forum. The thread reads more like an organic interaction with Bill willingly participated, listened, and made adjustments to Wilson Combats barrels and ammunition in response to suggestions and requests from members. He has been approachable and responsive throughout, regardless of the number of times the same question has been asked. That's not something you see often and the fact that Bill has continued his frequent interaction over the course of this still running 2-year thread is something worth noting.
My search for case forming/conversion of .223/5.56 into 300 HAM'R provided minimal results, unlike the 300BO. Although the 300 HAM'R has been out for a couple of years, I am attributing the lack of broader engagement to bad timing...SAAMI approval quickly followed by a global pandemic and subsequent firearm industry panic/shortage tends to disrupt the best laid plans. Luckily, there is factory brass available from Sig and Starline at reasonably prices. However, some of the appeal of the 300 HAM'R over the 6.5 Grendel is the ability to be self-reliant and form cases.
I have done a fair amount of case forming from simple to complex, with the 300BO being fairly easy. At present, there is a very limited amount of information/videos on 300 HAM'R case forming. Based on what I have read the big challenge is reshaping the shoulder of the .223 donor brass into the neck on newly-formed 300HAM'R case. At the narrowest point (neck/shoulder junction on 223 case) the ID is somewhere in the 0.220"-ish, which will then be expanded out to .302"-ish Neck ID for 300 HAM'R. The amount of expansion decrease as the .223 shoulder widens to meet the case body (shoulder/case body junction). Annealing the .223 donor brass before "necking up" will improve the success rate of converting cases to 300 HAM'R.
Has anyone tried to do this on a progressive press? I was contemplating using a couple of neck expander mandrels as intermediary steps to gradually expand/open up the .223 shoulder before ultimately running it through the 300 HAM'R FL Sizing Die. By making each stage a smaller increment change there is less risk of splitting necks and it easier on the machine to simultaneously run multiple stages. Thoughts?
New to the Forum and new to the 300 HAM'R. finally stopped long enough to fairly evaluate this cartridge is based on wading through the comments, interaction, and experiences documented throughout this thread (all 73 pages). Aside from the math/performance being confirmed by numerous unaffiliated shooters, the one thing that won me over was Bill Wilson's active engagement with the members of this forum. The thread reads more like an organic interaction with Bill willingly participated, listened, and made adjustments to Wilson Combats barrels and ammunition in response to suggestions and requests from members. He has been approachable and responsive throughout, regardless of the number of times the same question has been asked. That's not something you see often and the fact that Bill has continued his frequent interaction over the course of this still running 2-year thread is something worth noting.
My search for case forming/conversion of .223/5.56 into 300 HAM'R provided minimal results, unlike the 300BO. Although the 300 HAM'R has been out for a couple of years, I am attributing the lack of broader engagement to bad timing...SAAMI approval quickly followed by a global pandemic and subsequent firearm industry panic/shortage tends to disrupt the best laid plans. Luckily, there is factory brass available from Sig and Starline at reasonably prices. However, some of the appeal of the 300 HAM'R over the 6.5 Grendel is the ability to be self-reliant and form cases.
I have done a fair amount of case forming from simple to complex, with the 300BO being fairly easy. At present, there is a very limited amount of information/videos on 300 HAM'R case forming. Based on what I have read the big challenge is reshaping the shoulder of the .223 donor brass into the neck on newly-formed 300HAM'R case. At the narrowest point (neck/shoulder junction on 223 case) the ID is somewhere in the 0.220"-ish, which will then be expanded out to .302"-ish Neck ID for 300 HAM'R. The amount of expansion decrease as the .223 shoulder widens to meet the case body (shoulder/case body junction). Annealing the .223 donor brass before "necking up" will improve the success rate of converting cases to 300 HAM'R.
Has anyone tried to do this on a progressive press? I was contemplating using a couple of neck expander mandrels as intermediary steps to gradually expand/open up the .223 shoulder before ultimately running it through the 300 HAM'R FL Sizing Die. By making each stage a smaller increment change there is less risk of splitting necks and it easier on the machine to simultaneously run multiple stages. Thoughts?
Welcome.
Converting 223 cases to 300 hamr is identical to converting to 300blk and many of us here done it. Just cut-off to 1.606, full size and trim. No need to do progressive neck expansion. According to data posted here, less then 2% of necks will crack and you can use cracked cases for 300blk. Also, first time it is recommended to use 10% reduced loads to perform proper fireforming.
Smoked Pork, First, you get an award for going back and reading all 73 pages of this thread!!! Your evaluation is spot on! Also, I agree with eugenesan. Overall the 300 HAM'R case really isn't very hard to convert, and in truth, I have never really noticed any change in performance between cases just formed and those that have been fire-formed. However, you do get a tad bit more interior space and the shoulder is a bit more "defined" on fire-formed cases. I use only Lake City brass when forming cases and seldom does one split. .
This is my first post. Never even heard of the 300 Ham'r until a few months ago. I got an 18" barrel in from WC 2 weeks ago, put it into an existing upper and started shooting it a week ago. I just finished the 73 page thread you are reading right now. It is encyclopedic and would take an average reloader 5 years to learn what is in this thread.
This forum is excellent. Drama and trolls are the mark of an inferior forum. And then there is Bill Wilson and Wilson Combat. I've never dealt with them before (Glock guy) but I am impressed beyond words with Mr. Wilson's dedication, risk taking and constant desire to improve his products. Such traits are unicorns in modern American businesses. WC sells the guns but also sells the ammo and components. It seems Bill Wilson thinks of customers as family and works overtime to provide all he can for his customers.
I love his transparent approach to shooting and reloading. Your typical reloading book leaves you with the impression that a 150gr bullet is just a 150gr bullet so set the length and load 'em up. In my 51 years of reloading that was always a sticking point with me because so many reloading sites will not share this important information. Yet Bill Wilson readily shares the why and why not in his decisions. I could not be more impressed.
The 300 Ham'r deserves to be the 30-30 of the 21st century. It is so well designed and easily does so much in the AR15 receiver that, IMO, it obsoletes any other cartridge in this category. There are way too many variable to predict the future but if ever there was a cartridge that deserved to sit on the top of the mountain it is the 300 Ham'r. For the many subtle and the many obvious things you simply cannot miss the fact that Bill Wilson is a modest genius.
I am still working up loads and learning the ins and outs of this cartridge. I plan to be ground hog hunting with it this fall and using it on hogs next year in TX (I live in PA).
Last edited by Big Sam; 09/15/2112:51 AM.
"Group think" is not thinking. It is the lack of independent thought. It is a cancer of the mind.
I would like to hear your thoughts on subject of using 11.3" 300ham'r for hunting.
According to data posted 11.3" hamr has ballistics almost identical to 7.62x39. Many people use AK to hunt all over the world and 11.3" hamr is at least as good if not better.
The only issue is our broken laws which leave usage of rifle scopes on "large pistols" in a gray area and with recent ATF proposals may became illegal.
I know people use regular red dots but I am not comfortable with guessing the drop when shooting a living being. And then, I remembered that PrimaryArms make their ACSS reticles which support 7.62x39.
I am considering trying Holosun HS507C-X2 ACSS® Vulcan® or Holosun HS503G ACSS CQB. Any ideas or suggestions ?
P.S. SBR is not an option due to interstate travel limitations.
The SBR travel restrictions can be impossible to deal with or pretty easy to deal with. It depends on the state. NJ does not allow SBR's at all but most states do. So, for example, if you live in VA it is easy to get the 1 year "permission slip" to take your SBR to all the states where it is legal if you fill out and mail in the paperwork. It is done and must be approved on a state by state basis. As long as your home state allows SBR's and your destination state does as well, you are golden.
You can all make the 11.3" Ham'r into a pistol and convert it to an SBR (if your state allows them) if the law requires it.
"Group think" is not thinking. It is the lack of independent thought. It is a cancer of the mind.
On my 11.3" I went with the PA 3x Prism scope with the .300 BLK/7.62x39 reticle. I just got it mounted so I haven't had a chance to take it out in the field. I just couldn't bring myself to use a non magnified optic on it because the external ballistics so closely match that of a 16" 7.62x39.
My velocity should be right around 2300 FPS with 125 TNT's so with a 1" high at 100 yard zero that should line up the BDC reticle. Strelok confirms this but we'll see if that holds true.
I intend to take the 11.3" with me, along with the 18", when I go hog hunting in January. I think with careful bullet selection there should be no reason why it wouldn't be effective. I'd stay away from heavy bullets as they would start out too slow to expand reliably.
An 11.3" barrel that makes 16" AK velocities in an AR platform? We are truly in a new age.
I would like to hear your thoughts on subject of using 11.3" 300ham'r for hunting.
According to data posted 11.3" hamr has ballistics almost identical to 7.62x39. Many people use AK to hunt all over the world and 11.3" hamr is at least as good if not better.
The only issue is our broken laws which leave usage of rifle scopes on "large pistols" in a gray area and with recent ATF proposals may became illegal.
I know people use regular red dots but I am not comfortable with guessing the drop when shooting a living being. And then, I remembered that PrimaryArms make their ACSS reticles which support 7.62x39.
I am considering trying Holosun HS507C-X2 ACSS® Vulcan® or Holosun HS503G ACSS CQB. Any ideas or suggestions ?
P.S. SBR is not an option due to interstate travel limitations.
There has been a ton of discussion on this regarding hunting with the 11.3". Basically, it boils down to the muzzle velocity, ballistic coefficient, and minimal expansion velocity of the HAM'R Ammo/bullet you pick. There is a ton of muzzle velocity data for all barrel lengths in the pages of this forum. Personally, I think the 1000 ft-lbs yardage as a good max for what your specific HAM'R round is capable of. For the 135gr HAM'R Bonded, this sits right at 200 yards in the 11.3" barrel. Finally, the Rugged Micro in it's K config is perfect for this barrel length!!
I’ve shot hogs with the 11.3” using 125gr TNT (meh) 130gr hhc (thumbs up) and the 150gr Speer BTSP #2022 (2 thumbs up) from 25-100yds point and click with a 50yd zero.
If you can’t hit it in daylight at 150yds with a red dot seeing a target at 3x really isn’t going to help.
Don’t get wrapped in bullet weight = terminal performance. Bullets are like red head trophy wives and they all have their own personality given varying circumstances.:p Those 150gr #2022 out of a 16” left wounds like a 110gr controlled chaos on fairly similar size pigs at roughly the same distance. (Rapid expansion, large entrance on near side chest cavity and little to no exit) Out of a 11.3” they stayed together better and punched through fracturing multiple bones in both shoulders and shields leaving a decent exit.
I chose not to use the 11.3 in the field much anymore because there is a significant muzzle blast penalty compared to a 16” no matter which of the several suppressors I use. I spent a handful of years crawling out of doors and hatches with 24”-16” guns daily. The 5” difference between a 11.3 & 16” isn’t going to matter much if you’re not hunting out of a Geo Metro sized rig. $0.02
I joined the forum just because of this thread. It's great to see so many knowledgeable folks working on this. I've got a couple locals that swear by the Ham'r, and I've been unimpressed with the blackout so far, so I'm making the bold leap to the ham'r. Although it is a slow leap. Cannot find an 11.3 barrel in stock anywhere, or any of the recommended 30 cal bullets. stupid pandemic, politics, and ammo crisis. But I got dies, so while I wait for items to come in stock I'll start making brass and keep shooting the sbr blackout and the full sized grendel. (although if I'm being honest, most of my shooting is with a suppressed marlin 1894 shooting subsonic rounds. what a hoot)
For my first question: has anybody found a good method for trimming brass? I know WFT has a timmer, but it's spendy. I use the simple lee trimmer in a drill and was thinking about trying to find and modify 30 herett guide, but those are thin on the ground as well.
I am waiting for my dies to come in. From my experience forming 300BO, neither the Lee trimmer or the WFT are going to be the ideal solution. Even with the longer case of 300 HAM'R, there is too much brass to remove by either trimmer. The WFT will square up the case mouth fairly quickly, but it doesn't chamfer the mouth. Whereas, the Lee Trimmer will square the case mouth very slowly, but it will chamfer inside & outside the case mouth. After a couple of thousand 300BO, I realized that I needed a faster way to remove the majority of the brass... WFT chucked in a lathe wasn't fast enough. A more efficient way that is relatively inexpensive... Harbor Freight chop saw and a cut-off jig (Ebay). After this initial rough cut you might need to knock down a burr along newly cut case mouth before sending the it through the 300 HAM'R FL Sizing die. You can use manual chamfer tools to knock off any burrs or you can run the cut cases through a wet tumbler (steel pins). The steel pins make quick work of removing any burrs with minimal effort by you. Run the cases through the 300HAM'R FL Sizing Die and then trim/chamfer to final length. The chamfer improves bullet seating. For bulk ammo I just loaded 300BO cases without any additional chamfering after the wet tumble.
On the budget-friendly side this is another option: Lyman Case Trimmer Station (more flexible than WFT) and a K&M chamfer tool. Lyman Case Trimmer and K&M Chamfer tool
yes, harbor freight chop saw for the initial cutting. It's the post sizing final trim that I am stuck on.
I have tried quite a bit of gear...trial by owning. If I didn't already own a WFT for 300BO, then I would buy the Lyman (YouTube video link in my earlier post) for a couple of dollars more and be able to trim to length almost any cartridge. You can always use an expensive case trimmer/lathe commonly used by competitive shooters, such as LE Wilson, Sinclair, or mini-powered lathe like 21st Century. How much do you want to spend
I think the bigger challenge is chamfering the case (inside and outside). I have Giraud trimmers for other cartridges and they are the cat's meow. I wish I had spent the $500 on Giraud's dedicated bench top powered trimmer unit. Giraud's offers a Tri-Way Trimmer $100 (stand-alone that you attach to a drill) for 300BO. However, due to different case geometry (wider at shoulder/body), I am not certain that 300 HAM'R will fit in the 300BO model. The other option is the Lee Trimmer with the optional power adapter to use a power drill so no more carpel tunnel from cranking the coffee grinder handle. The least expensive option is the manual chamfer and deburr tools from Sinclair, K&M, Lyman, Hornady, etc.
Based on volume, I would prefer a tool that has option to attach to a drill, and even better if it will do both cuts at same time.
I’ve shot hogs with the 11.3” using 125gr TNT (meh) 130gr hhc (thumbs up) and the 150gr Speer BTSP #2022 (2 thumbs up) from 25-100yds point and click with a 50yd zero.
If you can’t hit it in daylight at 150yds with a red dot seeing a target at 3x really isn’t going to help.
Don’t get wrapped in bullet weight = terminal performance. Bullets are like red head trophy wives and they all have their own personality given varying circumstances.:p Those 150gr #2022 out of a 16” left wounds like a 110gr controlled chaos on fairly similar size pigs at roughly the same distance. (Rapid expansion, large entrance on near side chest cavity and little to no exit) Out of a 11.3” they stayed together better and punched through fracturing multiple bones in both shoulders and shields leaving a decent exit.
I chose not to use the 11.3 in the field much anymore because there is a significant muzzle blast penalty compared to a 16” no matter which of the several suppressors I use. I spent a handful of years crawling out of doors and hatches with 24”-16” guns daily. The 5” difference between a 11.3 & 16” isn’t going to matter much if you’re not hunting out of a Geo Metro sized rig. $0.02
My intention with the 11.3" .300 Ham'r is not primarily hunting. I am only taking it hunting to test the optic and bullet combination I've chosen for it. Likely after I take an animal with it I'll go back to the 18" for all my hunting.
Since it's not designated for hunting I'd like it to be more versatile in the field. I might shoot at targets up close or at targets 400 yards away. For that I decided some magnification would be beneficial. Since the 11.3" gives identical drop to the 7.62x39 an optic with a BDC in it was an easy choice. The PA 3x was in my budget for now but eventually I might switch to an LPVO.
Having a little magnification is helpful for me in that during lower light parts of the day, early morning or after sunset, I can more easily identify if a hog or a deer is coming out of the brush or if it's some other critter toying with me.
Your point is well taken, not all 150 grain bullets are made equal and some would work just fine, but in the world of limited supply that we live in they can be hard to find. If you've got them and they work for you in the 11.3" go for it.
Originally Posted by greyling
yes, harbor freight chop saw for the initial cutting. It's the post sizing final trim that I am stuck on.
I tried the Lee Quick Trim die and just wasn't getting very consistent lengths out of it. More likely that's my lack of familiarity with it. I removed the chamfer blades and that seemed to help a bit.
I also ordered a WCT(World's Cheapest Trimmer) off of eBay to try. The problem with it is that the body of the trimmer needs a fully formed shoulder to rest against to get a consistent trim. Sometimes the trimmer would pop over the shoulder and destroy the case. I have no doubt that it would be fine on fully formed cases though.
If you get your rough cut length close enough, then there's not much to trim off after sizing. I rough cut to 1.625" and that leaves only a few thousandths to shave off for final length, which I do on a Lyman Universal case trimmer. Once you get into a rhythm it goes pretty fast. And the Lyman gives me very consistent lengths.
I think the bigger challenge is chamfering the case (inside and outside). I have Giraud trimmers for other cartridges and they are the cat's meow. I wish I had spent the $500 on Giraud's dedicated bench top powered trimmer unit. Giraud's offers a Tri-Way Trimmer $100 (stand-alone that you attach to a drill) for 300BO. However, due to different case geometry (wider at shoulder/body), I am not certain that 300 HAM'R will fit in the 300BO model. The other option is the Lee Trimmer with the optional power adapter to use a power drill so no more carpel tunnel from cranking the coffee grinder handle. The least expensive option is the manual chamfer and deburr tools from Sinclair, K&M, Lyman, Hornady, etc.
Based on volume, I would prefer a tool that has option to attach to a drill, and even better if it will do both cuts at same time.
I ordered the 300BO Giraud trimmer pilot (I have the desktop trimmer) thinking it would work, no dice...the taper on the BO case make it where the Hamr won't go do into it deep enough. Quick call and conversation with Doug...I sent it back with 3 pieces of sized brass...now I have a Giraud trimmer pilot.
Full disclosure...I'm not making brass...Wilson's brass is so cheap and when I went this route they rarely didn't have brass so I ordered a few hundred. So I've only trimmed using my pilot an not done any brass converting or forming.
Good luck and maybe this will help someone.
Originally Posted by Phil Robertson
Don't let your ears hear what your eyes didn't see, and don't let your mouth say what your heart doesn't feel
![[Linked Image]](https://texashuntingforum.com/forum/pics/userpics/2021/09/full-65935-309702-20210803_073428_1612x1209.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](https://texashuntingforum.com/forum/pics/userpics/2021/09/full-65935-309703-20210907_221139_1612x1209.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](https://texashuntingforum.com/forum/pics/userpics/2021/09/full-65935-309704-20210828_212005_1612x1209.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](https://texashuntingforum.com/forum/pics/userpics/2021/09/full-65935-309705-20210906_215020_1612x1209.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](https://texashuntingforum.com/forum/pics/userpics/2020/12/full-3-269524-2044.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](https://texashuntingforum.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/23953/filename/IMG_2983 (2).jpg)
