1.5 grass height as directed per MSMA 6 plus label. It says 1.0 to 1.5 inch but 1 inch seems awfully low. Texas A&M has an article that says 4-6 weeks after first application to hit it again. I am currently inside that window. On a plus note, my Bermuda is starting to fill the bare spots.

4-6 is right. 1" isn't that low. I'm currently at 3/4" I have 2 mounds of Dallis that popped up about 6-8 weeks ago. I haven't treated it. Just mowing it, just to watch it. It's running out of steam. I can go 5 days without mowing and it will barely be above the bermuda height. My neighbor is covered in it and he's at like a 2-2.5" mow height. His Dallis will be s foot tall in 5-7 days.

That said. A Dallis infestation would drive me insane. I would be out there brushing it, spot spraying or just blanket app Gly on it. An app of gly isn't going to kill bermuda. It will yellow it, but it will come back pretty quickly. Specially if you spoon feed it 1/4lb of nitogen like Ammonium Sulfate every week and water it in immediately. My neighbor by accident grabbed a bottle grass killer instead of weed killer and blanket sprayed his whole yard. Needless to say it looked a tad toasty. It was hilarious. He was having a huge party in like 5 weeks. We put down about 2lbs of total N over the 5 weeks. Watered the hell out and by party time couldn't hardly tell what he had done. I'll have to find the pics.

Poor fella! Lol

Any of you covered up in army worms? Thankfully I don't have any(yet) but I have never seen them this bad. They are everywhere this year.

Yep, thankfully we took them out with liquid Sevin. 2 years ago we came back from the lease to find a brown leafless yard from them.

I applied Bifen LP when I heard they were showing up. No problems so far.

I did make a run to my deer lease yesterday N/W of Stephenville and saw a few costal fields that were hit pretty hard.

Currently fighting Bermuda mites in my Tif 419. Applied DELTAGUARD GRANULES and sprayed with ABAMECTIN .15 three days ago. I am going to spray every 7-8 days and bag all clippings to try and get them under control.

What's making you think it's mites on that? I don't see any witches broom signs(like rose rosette looks.) Or lime green colors of growth. Looks a lot more like a fungus like Dollar spot or another.

After looking online and several lawn websites, this was my best educated guess. I posted pictures on Southern lawn syndicate website and someone said it looked like Bermuda mites and kind of pointed me in that direction. I have not put my grass under a microscope and actually seen any mites though. Could I treat it for both without harming my grass? Propiconazole is used to treat dollar spot and could be sprayed.

I sent your pics to a university turf director I know. He said it could be the very early stages of mites. But he said he didn't think it was mites either and looked more like a fungus just from the 2 pics and not seeing it in person. No problem treating for both. Good idea to do. Prop with work. You'll see some stunted growth where you spray the prop as it is a growth regulator as well.

Early in the morning walk your lawn when there is a dew on it. If you see what looks like a lot of spider webs. That's the early stage of dollar spot.

I’ll start checking lawn tomorrow Thanks

Well, I have checked my lawn the last 2 days and found nothing that looks like spider webs or fungus of any kind. Really heavy dew this morning also. Gonna keep an eye out for it though and let you know if it shows up.

I would go ahead and get your disease preventions out anyway. Depending on the coming weeks weather conditions. You'll probably start to see more diseases.

https://www.greencastonline.com/tools/pestoutlooks.aspx

maybe some on here can give me some advise on a mountain laurel that appears healthy about 2 weeks ago, the there was some of the lower leaves turning brown, to appears dead ... all in about 2 weeks. this little sucker survived the winter blast back in Feb. and was looking great up until 2 weeks ago. Any idea what happened to it?

If I had to guess it would be drainage and soil conditions. Could be the drainage underneath isn't good and the roots stayed water logged. But your bigger issue is soil conditions. You being in the Austin area I bet your soil Ph is 7.5-8.2. That's not good for Laurels. Laurels, Azaleas and many others look great at the nursery only to plant them and they look horrible and/or die within two years. The reason. High soil Ph. They need acidic soil. Soil Ph under 7. Closer to 6 and they will do well. With a high soil Ph the nutrients they need are bound up and not available to them. You'll need to amend the soil with a lot of peat moss, elemental Sulphur, pine bark mulch. When you hand water add citric acid to your water to lower the Ph of the water and to help acidify the soil. Foliar sprays of micronutrients and a balanced fertilizer with you nitrogen source being Ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate would be the way to go. Before you buy and plant anything always look it up and see what soil conditions it needs.

hmmm, the soil was all hauled in via my dump trailer from a nursery, their superior soil blend. likely 2-2.5 feet deep sitting on virtually solid limestone underneath, then topped with hardwood mulch after this Mountain Laurel was planted about 6-7 years ago. This all transpired very quickly, like it was sprayed with chemicals. I guess I am going to have to figure out how to get a soil sample tested around here??? never done that before, any recommendations on how to go about getting the soil tested?

is there any chance this could be resurrected to survive?

I had sunflowers attack my Elaeagnus. Both survived the ice storm, didn’t even drop their leaves, sunflowers grew in the middle of the plant maybe 2 feet tall, but be is trying to come back and one is most likely dead. Damn sunflowers are brutal on plants.

You can scrape the bottom bark and see if there is still green and see if it's still alive. You can also send in a tissue sample to Texas A&M and they can analyze it and tell you if it was a fungus/disease that has damage or killed it. http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/files/Forageweb2.pdf


Soil test are easy. Do the #2 test for $19.00 takes about 10 days for them to email you the results. Prepay for it online. Link shows how to collect samples. Not to get too nerdy but they do a M3 extraction for their testing. For soil Ph's over 7 a M3 test will read Phosphorus too high. So if you get your results back and your Ph is over 7. Divide the P by 1/2 and that will be a more correct reading.

http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/files/websoilunified2021.pdf
https://secure.touchnet.com/C21490_ustores/web/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCTID=11534

well, I am pretty sure I figured out what happened to my Mountain Laurel ... as there are a number of other trash trees, scrubby brush and other things in that general area that have also started turning brown to almost dead.

a few weeks back our water softener had an issue and drained a bunch of water out when it was trying to regenerate, there was a valve failure in the garage, that flowed a bunch of water & potassium (instead of salt, on a aeration septic) that left 1/2 thick residue in the garage, and down the driveway that I suspect went thru the drains in the driveway curb directly in line with the area that pretty much everything is dying. I just noticed all the other plants turning brown yesterday morning on our way to church.

Interesting. Was it Potassium Chloride?

I think so ... it's the other type of stuff used in water softeners when on an aerobic septic system instead of salt.

Per google it is Potassium Chloride that is used. Which is actually a very common potassium source used in fertilizers. But it has a very high salt index. So using a lot of it would be about the same as pouring salt on your plants. If your plants roots are in that drain pipe or if that drain pipe has holes in it and leaches out where the root system could uptake it that would make since. And your drain pipe is probably deep enough where it's below the grass roots. If not you would have seen a good turf burn as well. Originally I thought these were in your back yard. But the way I read it now this is outside of a fence type area/road side. And it killing some trash trees and shrubs. Herbicide drift would not be out of the question.

Potassium chloride is a salt, and I can tell you from experience that a solution with heavy salt content soaking into root zone of shrubs and trees will cause damage like that. If you think the browned out shrubs and trees are in line with where the salt water ran off I think you have your answer.

Derek, this Mountain Laurel was planted on the side of our driveway where we back out from the garage. This area was very steep off into a ravine slightly to the west where I hauled in fill soil to plant the Mountain Laurel and a TX ash. The red arrow indicates the approximate location of the mountain laurel. The water softener is in the garage, and when the valve failed, it dumped a lot of water saturated with the potassium chloride out the north most garage door, down the slopped driveway to the curb along that side of the driveway, directly in the path of the mountain laurel. there are also small 1" wide gaps built into that curb to allow water to run thru along the length. One such gap is also directly in line with the mountain laurel ... I have no idea just how much of the saturated water was dispensed, but it left a good 1/4 to 1/2 inch layer of residue the depth of the garage and down the driveway to the curb.

It was only last weekend on our way to church that it hit me that might be the cause as I saw a bunch of other native trash trees / brush beyond (west) the mountain laurel was turning very brown as well.

That makes sense. With decent winter rains it should leach out through your soil. Do the #4 soil test at A&M around mid March. The #4 will do the basic soil test plus check soil Salinity and give you a good idea if you're clear to replant.

You have a nice place.