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Issues with Heavy Hitch Tooth Bar
#8322765
07/16/21 01:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,052
Kevin_M
OP
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,052 |
So I recently purchase a Heavy Hitch Tooth bar(off Ebay) and it basically falls off any time I go to dig or uproot a tree. The seller refuses to do anything to help me so I was wondering what the best way would be to secure it to my bucket? I was thinking about pulling out the set crews and bolting it to the bucket and was also considering welding it to it. The downside to welding it would be that it would be permanent and back dragging would be a bit more sloppy . Any thoughts?
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Re: Issues with Heavy Hitch Tooth Bar
[Re: Kevin_M]
#8322787
07/16/21 01:50 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 42,878
J.G.
THF Celebrity
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THF Celebrity
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 42,878 |
Drill, and bolt with 1/2" or 5/8" grade 8 bolts.
The bucket, and the tooth bar might be medium or high carbon steel, which may make drilling the holes difficult. If that is the case, you can do what's called a local heat, right where you need the holes. That will involve an oxy-fuel torch. Hold the torch where you need the hole, soak it until the steel is yellow hot, and hold it yellow hot for 5 more seconds. Once you remove the torch place some scrap plate steel over the spot you heated. Let it cool as slow as possible. Done correctly, this will anneal the steel, which is breaking down the carbon and iron bond, making it softer.
If you successfully get your holes made, I would do end, end, middle, then between end and middle on both sides, for a total of 5 bolts. Bold heads on the bottom, nuts on the top. So the bolts would be upside down pointing toward the sky. If the nuts were on bottom, you'll get them packed with dirt, making it more difficult to get them off.
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Re: Issues with Heavy Hitch Tooth Bar
[Re: J.G.]
#8322791
07/16/21 01:54 PM
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,836
Big_Country01
Extreme Tracker
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Extreme Tracker
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,836 |
Drill, and bolt with 1/2" or 5/8" grade 8 bolts.
The bucket, and the tooth bar might be medium or high carbon steel, which may make drilling the holes difficult. If that is the case, you can do what's called a local heat, right where you need the holes. That will involve an oxy-fuel torch. Hold the torch where you need the hole, soak it until the steel is yellow hot, and hold it yellow hot for 5 more seconds. Once you remove the torch place some scrap plate steel over the spot you heated. Let it cool as slow as possible. Done correctly, this will anneal the steel, which is breaking down the carbon and iron bond, making it softer.
If you successfully get your holes made, I would do end, end, middle, then between end and middle on both sides, for a total of 5 bolts. Bold heads on the bottom, nuts on the top. So the bolts would be upside down pointing toward the sky. If the nuts were on bottom, you'll get them packed with dirt, making it more difficult to get them off. This. Just bolt it to the bucket.
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Re: Issues with Heavy Hitch Tooth Bar
[Re: Kevin_M]
#8322811
07/16/21 02:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,052
Kevin_M
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Posts: 1,052 |
Sounds like a plan. I've going back and forth on the best way. Thanks for the info gents!
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Re: Issues with Heavy Hitch Tooth Bar
[Re: Big_Country01]
#8323730
07/17/21 03:55 PM
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 62,600
BOBO the Clown
kind of a big deal
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kind of a big deal
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 62,600 |
Drill, and bolt with 1/2" or 5/8" grade 8 bolts.
The bucket, and the tooth bar might be medium or high carbon steel, which may make drilling the holes difficult. If that is the case, you can do what's called a local heat, right where you need the holes. That will involve an oxy-fuel torch. Hold the torch where you need the hole, soak it until the steel is yellow hot, and hold it yellow hot for 5 more seconds. Once you remove the torch place some scrap plate steel over the spot you heated. Let it cool as slow as possible. Done correctly, this will anneal the steel, which is breaking down the carbon and iron bond, making it softer.
If you successfully get your holes made, I would do end, end, middle, then between end and middle on both sides, for a total of 5 bolts. Bold heads on the bottom, nuts on the top. So the bolts would be upside down pointing toward the sky. If the nuts were on bottom, you'll get them packed with dirt, making it more difficult to get them off. This. Just bolt it to the bucket. 3x, Id be tempted to tack weld too.
Bottom line, never trust a man whose uncle was eaten by cannibals.-Sen Joni Ernst
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Re: Issues with Heavy Hitch Tooth Bar
[Re: J.G.]
#8323784
07/17/21 05:12 PM
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Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1,589
Poppa
Pro Tracker
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Pro Tracker
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1,589 |
Drill, and bolt with 1/2" or 5/8" grade 8 bolts.
The bucket, and the tooth bar might be medium or high carbon steel, which may make drilling the holes difficult. If that is the case, you can do what's called a local heat, right where you need the holes. That will involve an oxy-fuel torch. Hold the torch where you need the hole, soak it until the steel is yellow hot, and hold it yellow hot for 5 more seconds. Once you remove the torch place some scrap plate steel over the spot you heated. Let it cool as slow as possible. Done correctly, this will anneal the steel, which is breaking down the carbon and iron bond, making it softer.
If you successfully get your holes made, I would do end, end, middle, then between end and middle on both sides, for a total of 5 bolts. Bold heads on the bottom, nuts on the top. So the bolts would be upside down pointing toward the sky. If the nuts were on bottom, you'll get them packed with dirt, making it more difficult to get them off. nice!
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