Looks like leaf cutter bees. They love roses. They do the same to my pepper plants.

japanese beetle

Fighting those on my cypress bushes, I think I’ve got them beat back there. I’ll have to double check the roses for them.

We have about a dozen oak trees, but only in the back and side yards. The front yard, which is over half the grass, does not have any trees

Nak I'm going to walk you through using a more professional product. I don't know what weeds you're targeting which would be helpful, but Celsius WG will cover most of them. And you can use it in this heat. It won't kill Dallisgrass or Sedges. But pretty good on just about everything else you're probably seeing right now. Don't freak out when you google it and see the price. There is a guy on ebay selling small quantities of it to make it more budget friendly. Just type Celsius WG into ebay and you'll see it. I'm assuming you're going to spot spray these weeds so that is the process I will discuss.

First. This is a professional product. You have to be able to measure and mix this exactly. I have seen people mix this incorrectly and screw their lawns up. It is not something you just willy nilly pour in a gallon sprayer add water and just go squirting.

This product works well on St. Aug as well for any of you that have it and read this.

What you'll need.
A good gram scale. $12.00 on Amazon.
Ammonium Sulfate(Nitrogen) You can get small bags on Amazon for like $15.00 I get a 50lbs bag of spray grade at the farm store for $18.00
Non Ionic Surfactant. SoAg is a good one. $12ish on Amazon
Spray dye. I would add this if you're going to do this over multiple days so you know where you sprayed.

Do not mow 2 days before or after applying. No rain or irrigation for 24 hours after applying.

If you have a ton of crab grass go 3.2 grams of Celsius. If not go 2.4 grams.
Using your gram scale. Put it on grams. Put a dixie cup on it and hit the tare button to clears it out. Add the appropriate amount of Celsius. And your good. The couple I've seen screw up is they used ounces and not grams. Huge difference.

Gallon pump up sprayer.
Add 1/2 gallon of warm or hot water.
Add 2 table spoons of ammonium sulfate. Mix well to dissolve
Add Celsius. Mix well to dissolve
Add dye if needed. Mix well
Add 1 tablespoons of surfactant. Mix well. Always add surfactant last.
Top it off to the gallon line with more water. Mix well.

You're good to go to spots. The weeds do not need a 5 second hose down. Literally just a squirt and go. A gallon mix should go a long way.

If you have a ton of Nutsedge. Get the 2 pack of Sedgehammer on Amazon for $25.00 add one pack of it when you you mix in the Celsius. Sedge Hammer has a surfactant built in. So if you add it drop your added surfactant to a teaspoon.

Easy peasy.

You can read the label here.
https://www.solutionsstores.com/amfilerating/file/download/file_id/3176/

What is chewing up my rose bushes and how do I kill it?

leafcutter bee, do you have a garden?

No, Payne. Just these rose bushes in the front of the house...

It's a pollinator, I can't tell you how to kill it...

I ain’t seen anything that liked DTE yet.

Thanks Derek.
We had a death in the family, so I was in Baltimore for a week. I'm just putting down the second round of DiseaseEx. The first treatment did wonders. Not only did it stop the progression, but there is green coming back in most of the spots already.

I'll hit the eBay guy for the Celsius WG. I've got a digital reloading scale and I've already got a partial bag of ammonium sulfate.

Love a fresh cut

Neighbors yard is greener

My yard always looks better a few days after it has been cut.

I have my bermuda looking good but somewhere along the way I think I let it get too high between cuttings....., now I'm stuck in the mode of cutting on the highest setting pretty much every other day. Cutting any lower and it looks scalped/dried out because it's so thick. Any tips or advice on getting back to a lower height without doing damage in this heat?

You may not like the locution. You have to continue with the high cuttings or cut it shorter and have green grass growing from the shorter cutting. It will take time.

Them boxes look like he77 in everybody's yard.

Generally, you cut it higher, then wait 24 hours and cut it at the next lower setting. You don’t want to be cutting more than about. 1/4 of the grass blade off during cutting. Basically, walk it back down over a a week or so. I tend to let mine get taller in summer months for water retention and weed suppression. Still looks nice, just a little, “furrier”.

If it was me I would go full throttle on it and do a major height of cut reset. Personally I don't like high cut bermuda. I would drop it down to the lowest or next to lowest setting and scalp the hell out of it. Bag and discard all clippings. Go with APF K8 or Lesco Texas Turf from HD. 3lbs per 1000 every two weeks and lots of water. It will look bad for 10-14 days and will be rocking after that. The next 3-4 weeks are the prime bermuda growing weeks. And remember. It's bermuda. Whatever you do it might look bad for 2 weeks but you're not going to hurt it. Bermuda is the alpha turf. Real mans grass.

Someone forgot to tell that to my neighbor’s St. Augustine that I keep having to stay on top of as it tries to conquer my Bermuda.

It happens everyday in my subdivision. There is a vacant lot with native Bermuda. The creep has started from neighbors on each side. It is tough enough to get by without watering.

What are you using to control the St. Aug in your bermuda.

Mostly mechanical removal as the runners come over the line. But I do have some MSMA left over and I have used that along the boundary if it gets too aggressive, or if I don’t stay on top of pulling it.

Nice. MSMA alone will do a good job. MSMA/Quinclorac mixed together and it's lights out.

It’s pre-emergent month. I’m going to put mine out August 28th. These do need to be watered in with 0.5” of rainfall or irrigation. So if you don’t have irrigation and if there is a high rain chance between August 21st and the 28th. Feel free to get it out ahead of the rain.

The two products I like the best. Prodiamine and Isoxaben.

Prodiamine sold as Barricade. It’s going to cover most of your grassy weeds and some of your broadleaf weeds. Prodiamine has a very long soil residual is one of the main reasons I like. It has done very well for me. Barricade you would want to apply 3lbs per 1000sq late August and mid February.

Isoxaben sold as Gallery. Not hard to find at most nurseries, farm stores. This covers a lot/most of your broadleaf weeds. You would want to apply it at 6lbs per 1000 same date as Barricade. Do not mix these products in the hopper at the same time to mix together. Spread them separately.

Isoxaben is expensive. Check local stores and see what their prices are then check some places online. Do the math on how much you will need. If the price doesn’t fit your budget that is completely understandable. Of the two products if you can only budget to buy one. Go prodiamine all the way.

There are other products out there. Some people like some people like Dithiopyr over Prodiamine. That’s fine. Lowes has a good Dith product. If your Lowes happens to have. I’ll link it below.

Lot of others out there. I’m just discussing the few I have used and had really good results with. If there is one out there that you’re curious about using we would be more than happy to discuss it here.

Barricade Pre-Emergence Herbicide | Nitrophos Barricade Granular Herbicide | Solutions Pest & Lawn (solutionsstores.com)

10885 Trinity G 11 x 19.5.pdf (fertilome.com)

Turf Gro 50-lb Pre-Emergent Crabgrass Control in the Weed Preventers department at Lowes.com