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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: Dzhitshard]
#8065937
11/27/20 12:47 AM
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Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,230
Wilson Combat
Boar Meister
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Boar Meister
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,230 |
This thread has cost me a lot of money so far. . . and I'm glad I found it after being pretty underwhelmed with 300BLK terminal performance.
I got a Ranger 16" HAM'R upper assembled a while ago & stacked a solid 18+ hogs last weekend with the 125gr Pro-Hunter loads.
I got on the Holiday sale & ended up clicking on a 1-15 twist Protector 16" barrel on my phone instead of the 1-13 twist 16" Ranger I meant to order.
Has anyone experienced dramatic POI shift with a can on that light weight of a barrel profile?
When Running a 14 to18oz can Is it in my best interest to give this to my dad & order the Ranger profile barrel or will I be reasonably good enough for 2-3 shots on the Protector profile with a can of that weight?
Also, I've read this whole thread a couple times over the last 2 months but don't recall much specifics on the 135gr FTX loads. Has anyone had a successful load they'd like to share for that projectile? Hot-Cor & Pro-Hunter projectiles are rare as hens teeth right now but I have good access to nearly unlimited 135 & 150 FTX bullets. My main two rifles have Ranger 16" bbls and I've never noticed a significant POI shift as the bbls warm up. Load data for the 135FTX is on the web site, basically 2380-2400fps using CFEBLK
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: RSTX]
#8065945
11/27/20 12:57 AM
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Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,230
Wilson Combat
Boar Meister
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Boar Meister
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,230 |
FYI we have a big sale on bbls for Black Friday Do you have any recommendations on twist? I see that the website says 1-15" is the best all around. Would that be your choice for 125-135 grain hunting rounds? Edit to add: It looks like almost all of the barrels on sale are 1-13". Are they not selling as well? Unless you plan to shoot mostly 150gr a 1-15 will be fine and possibly more accurate with the lighter bullets than a 1-13. But like all barrels they often have favorite bullets/loads. I've got guns with 1-11.25, 1-13 and 1-15 and they all shoot very good with loads they like. The main reason we make the 1-13 is for 150gr bullets in sub freezing weather, some of the longer 150gr bullets "could" become unstable in extreme cold according to stabilization calculations. That said we have never had a complaint of a 150gr going unstable out of a 1-15 twist barrel. At the time we standardized on a 1-15 twist we were focused on 125-130gr bullets. SAAMI lists a 1-12 twist due to it being common in the firearms industry and most gun companies have 1-12 tooling. Bottom line both twists normally shoot well, especially with 125-135gr bullets.
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: Wilson Combat]
#8073176
12/02/20 07:15 PM
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Joined: May 2020
Posts: 58
eugenesan
Outdoorsman
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Outdoorsman
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 58 |
I need an advice regarding my 300HAMR barrel (Ranger 16.25", 1-13).
After shooting suppressed ~25 rounds (mostly 1st time fired converted LC brass), I am experiencing random "click no bang" with no signs of firing pin reaching the primer and a later failures to chamber. At that point, rounds that manage to fire are just spraying the target (when the barrel is clean they group just fine).
Swapping the bolt, charging handle and lower doesn't help. The only thing that helps is cleaning the chamber, which is completely black at that point (note, the rest of the gun stays relatively clean).
I have never experienced that much of carbon in chamber and lugs after only 25 rounds and if I did the guns would continue to work in that condition.
What can be wrong with my setup? Is the barrel out of specs and allows too much gas into the chamber? The headspace is off somehow while the bolts I tested have been headspace checked using gauges in several 5.56 and 300blk uppers? Should I blame freshly formed brass being under sized? I have very limited experience with suppressed systems but there are some things you can answer that might help with diagnosing your problem. Buffer weight? Full weight bolt carrier? Adjustable gas block? What bullet and charge weight? Everything works fine unsupressed? Did the brass show any pressure signs? My thoughts are that the load isn't completely forming and sealing the chamber, leading to all of the excess crud and causing the bolt to have a weak cycle, which is causing the failures to chamber and not fully going into battery, which might be why you're not getting primer strikes on some rounds. If it's over gassed, the increased pressure in the system moves the bolt faster and can cause the bolt to bounce out of battery or to unlock too early. Increasing the buffer weight or using an adjustable gas block could cure this. Thank you for the reply. My setup consist of: Adjustable gas block, lightweight BCG, lightweight buffer and 10% reduced buffer spring. As you can see I am obsessed with weight and recoil ;-) and that combination functions flawlessly in several 556 and 300blk guns. Firing cycle is optimized for lowest gas volume that would cycle with brass ejecting at ~3 o'clock un-suppressed. When the chamber is clean, the gun and spent cases shows no signs of anything wrong (besides larger than usual deposits of soot on the cases which I assume is normal for most suppressed guns). Once the chamber becomes dirty, the rounds that failed to fire require force to be extracted an manual feeding (pulling and releasing charging handle) is required to feed the following rounds. Later on, I can't even force the cartridges into the battery using forward assist. I think my gas/buffer system is fine but something causing excessive gas blowback. Regarding the loads, I used freshly converted LC-20 brass and powder charges corresponding to middle charge minus 5% which depending on the projectile is ~25gr+-0.3. Also, factory loads and my loads with factory brass function perfectly fine and some of the spent cases look cleaner but not always, go figure... Measure the OD of your loaded ammo at the neck, my guess is your LC-20 cases have a neck wall thickness that's too thick. We've ran into this is various brands and lots of 5.56 cases. Hello Bill, I followed your advice and took measurements of wall thickness and OD of several loaded and fired cases. Here are the results:
Caliber Bullet Case Powder Charge # Neck OD Neck Wall State
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300H Hornady 135gr FTX WC_20y CFEBlk 26.7 3 0.333 0.0105 Fired
300H Hornady 135gr FTX WC_20y CFEBlk 26.7 3 0.328 N/A Loaded
300H Hornady 135gr FTX WC_20y CFEBlk 0.00 3 0.3283333333 N/A Factory Loaded
---
300H Speer 125gr TNT LC_19y CFEBlk 25.3 3 0.3316666667 0.011 Fired
300H Speer 125gr TNT LC_20y CFEBlk 24.8 3 0.3285 N/A Loaded
300H Speer 125gr TNT LC_18y CFEBlk 25.1 3 0.328 N/A Loaded
---
300H Accura 120gr SP LC_18y CFEBlk 25.2 3 0.33175 0.011 Fired
300H Accura 120gr SP LC_20y CFEBlk 24.8 3 0.3319166667 0.01091666667 Fired
* WC = Wilson Combat 2020 brass (SIG?), LC = Lake City 5.56 2018-2020
Unfortunately I don't have enough experience to determine if something is wrong with my loads. Could you please take a look at the data? The only idea I have at the moment is that maybe I should avoid using Lee Factory Crimp die as a final stage or adjust the crimp level. Do you crimp the factory ammo? On average my loads' OD even for new factory cases is ~0.0003" lower than factory ammo. Thanks.
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: dlrz71]
#8073348
12/02/20 09:43 PM
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Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,230
Wilson Combat
Boar Meister
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Boar Meister
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,230 |
[/quote] Measure the OD of your loaded ammo at the neck, my guess is your LC-20 cases have a neck wall thickness that's too thick. We've ran into this is various brands and lots of 5.56 cases.[/quote] Hello Bill, I followed your advice and took measurements of wall thickness and OD of several loaded and fired cases. Here are the results:
Caliber Bullet Case Powder Charge # Neck OD Neck Wall State
---
300H Hornady 135gr FTX WC_20y CFEBlk 26.7 3 0.333 0.0105 Fired
300H Hornady 135gr FTX WC_20y CFEBlk 26.7 3 0.328 N/A Loaded
300H Hornady 135gr FTX WC_20y CFEBlk 0.00 3 0.3283333333 N/A Factory Loaded
---
300H Speer 125gr TNT LC_19y CFEBlk 25.3 3 0.3316666667 0.011 Fired
300H Speer 125gr TNT LC_20y CFEBlk 24.8 3 0.3285 N/A Loaded
300H Speer 125gr TNT LC_18y CFEBlk 25.1 3 0.328 N/A Loaded
---
300H Accura 120gr SP LC_18y CFEBlk 25.2 3 0.33175 0.011 Fired
300H Accura 120gr SP LC_20y CFEBlk 24.8 3 0.3319166667 0.01091666667 Fired
* WC = Wilson Combat 2020 brass (SIG?), LC = Lake City 5.56 2018-2020
Unfortunately I don't have enough experience to determine if something is wrong with my loads. Could you please take a look at the data? The only idea I have at the moment is that maybe I should avoid using Lee Factory Crimp die as a final stage or adjust the crimp level. Do you crimp the factory ammo? On average my loads' OD even for new factory cases is ~0.0003" lower than factory ammo. Thanks. [/quote] My loads in new Sig mfg cases measure from .328-.330 depending on the bullet loaded and whether it's a Starline or Sig case and/or brass or nickel plated. Most are .329" I've never had any luck with the Lee FC dies, I only do a light taper crimp using a .300BLK taper crimp die. The spec for the chamber ID of the neck should be .334" and this has never changed from day one. However if your barrel was chambered at the end of the lifespan of a reamer it could be as small as .333"
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: Wilson Combat]
#8073410
12/02/20 10:29 PM
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Joined: May 2020
Posts: 58
eugenesan
Outdoorsman
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Outdoorsman
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 58 |
Hello Bill, I followed your advice and took measurements of wall thickness and OD of several loaded and fired cases. Here are the results:
Caliber Bullet Case Powder Charge # Neck OD Neck Wall State
---
300H Hornady 135gr FTX WC_20y CFEBlk 26.7 3 0.333 0.0105 Fired
300H Hornady 135gr FTX WC_20y CFEBlk 26.7 3 0.328 N/A Loaded
300H Hornady 135gr FTX WC_20y CFEBlk 0.00 3 0.3283333333 N/A Factory Loaded
---
300H Speer 125gr TNT LC_19y CFEBlk 25.3 3 0.3316666667 0.011 Fired
300H Speer 125gr TNT LC_20y CFEBlk 24.8 3 0.3285 N/A Loaded
300H Speer 125gr TNT LC_18y CFEBlk 25.1 3 0.328 N/A Loaded
---
300H Accura 120gr SP LC_18y CFEBlk 25.2 3 0.33175 0.011 Fired
300H Accura 120gr SP LC_20y CFEBlk 24.8 3 0.3319166667 0.01091666667 Fired
* WC = Wilson Combat 2020 brass (SIG?), LC = Lake City 5.56 2018-2020
Unfortunately I don't have enough experience to determine if something is wrong with my loads. Could you please take a look at the data? The only idea I have at the moment is that maybe I should avoid using Lee Factory Crimp die as a final stage or adjust the crimp level. Do you crimp the factory ammo? On average my loads' OD even for new factory cases is ~0.0003" lower than factory ammo. Thanks. My loads in new Sig mfg cases measure from .328-.330 depending on the bullet loaded and whether it's a Starline or Sig case and/or brass or nickel plated. Most are .329" I've never had any luck with the Lee FC dies, I only do a light taper crimp using a .300BLK taper crimp die. The spec for the chamber ID of the neck should be .334" and this has never changed from day one. However if your barrel was chambered at the end of the lifespan of a reamer it could be as small as .333" Thanks for replying. My barrel is probably from the first batch of 1:13 Ranger 16.25" and I suppose the ID of the chamber is 0.334". It looks like freshly converted cases expand to 0.331" while factory cases expand to 0.333", can those 0.002" cause significant gas seepage into the chamber? Also, since my loads are dimensionally almost identical to the factory cases and easily pass case gauge, what can I check next?
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: eugenesan]
#8073456
12/02/20 10:54 PM
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Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,230
Wilson Combat
Boar Meister
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Boar Meister
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,230 |
Thanks for replying. My barrel is probably from the first batch of 1:13 Ranger 16.25" and I suppose the ID of the chamber is 0.334". It looks like freshly converted cases expand to 0.331" while factory cases expand to 0.333", can those 0.002" cause significant gas seepage into the chamber? Also, since my loads are dimensionally almost identical to the factory cases and easily pass case gauge, what can I check next? [/quote] Your 135FTX load is certainly hot enough for a good case/chamber seal, I'll bet it's well over 60k PSI. What's your velocity on this load? Anything over 2400fps from a 16" is too hot. Do you have the same tight chambering problem if you shoot some of our factory ammo? I've never seen an issue like this, like most of the serious night hog hunters on this thread I run my guns filthy and just keep cleaning the chamber and lubing the BCG with no malfunctions. Personally I do this regiment every 30-40rds The BCG pictured probably hasn't had the bolt out of it in over 500rds, I just wipe it down and squirt more lube in/on it and I can't remember ever having any kind of malfunction. I do run all nickel cases in my suppressed guns, but this is mainly because I keep them loaded all the time. If you shoot several shots and leave the gun loaded with brass cases the cartridge will be pretty much welded in the chamber a week later due to the corrosion from the ammonia moisture.
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: Wilson Combat]
#8073537
12/02/20 11:45 PM
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Joined: May 2020
Posts: 58
eugenesan
Outdoorsman
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Outdoorsman
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 58 |
Thanks for replying.
My barrel is probably from the first batch of 1:13 Ranger 16.25" and I suppose the ID of the chamber is 0.334". It looks like freshly converted cases expand to 0.331" while factory cases expand to 0.333", can those 0.002" cause significant gas seepage into the chamber?
Also, since my loads are dimensionally almost identical to the factory cases and easily pass case gauge, what can I check next?
Your 135FTX load is certainly hot enough for a good case/chamber seal, I'll bet it's well over 60k PSI. What's your velocity on this load? Anything over 2400fps from a 16" is too hot. Do you have the same tight chambering problem if you shoot some of our factory ammo? I've never seen an issue like this, like most of the serious night hog hunters on this thread I run my guns filthy and just keep cleaning the chamber and lubing the BCG with no malfunctions. Personally I do this regiment every 30-40rds The BCG pictured probably hasn't had the bolt out of it in over 500rds, I just wipe it down and squirt more lube in/on it and I can't remember ever having any kind of malfunction. I do run all nickel cases in my suppressed guns, but this is mainly because I keep them loaded all the time. If you shoot several shots and leave the gun loaded with brass cases the cartridge will be pretty much welded in the chamber a week later due to the corrosion from the ammonia moisture. My 135FTX loads (in factory WC cases) leave the barrel at 2459fps while identical factory loads factory are at 2450fps. My "fire forming" loads utilize 125TNT and Accura 120SP bullets and those leave the barrel at ~2300fps and require ~25gr of CFEBlk (Lot #5), maybe that is to low? My bolt never looked as dirty as yours ;-) In fact my BCG looks pretty clean (with only small amount of carbon at the front face of the bolt) by the time first round fails to load. If I swap the BCG with a clean one, the rounds still refuses to seat. In my case almost all fouling is in the chamber and barrel extension area. Usually by round 20 the barrel extension is completely black and I start having random issues seating rounds (both factory and converted cases). By round 50 I have to clean the chamber and barrel extension to continue shooting. Now, I mostly shoot "fire forming" loads and only a few loads in factory cases. Unfortunately I don't have enough factory cases to see if the problem persist with factory cases and you are currently out of stock ;-( P.S. Since the barrel in question is my first Stainless Steel barrel, I wonder if my cleaning regiment and supplies might cause fouling to "stick" to the steel surfaces since nitrated and anodizes surfaces remain relatively clean. I use Hornady OneShot gun cleaner/lube to remove the fouling and after that I lube contact surfaces using small amounts of Weapon Shield.
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: eugenesan]
#8073555
12/02/20 11:58 PM
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Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,230
Wilson Combat
Boar Meister
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Boar Meister
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,230 |
I use Hornady OneShot gun cleaner/lube to remove the fouling and after that I lube contact surfaces using small amounts of Weapon Shield.
Do you use a tight fitting nylon chamber brush? I brush the chamber out well with a nylon brush and then finish with a cotton patch. I don't use any cleaner or solvent.
We run a tight chamber to cartridge spec (basically a match chamber for ultimate accuracy) so 50rds suppressed may be too much??? I'm not sure I've ever shot more than 40rds without brushing out the chamber, usually every 30rds or so.
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: Wilson Combat]
#8073581
12/03/20 12:15 AM
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Joined: May 2020
Posts: 58
eugenesan
Outdoorsman
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Outdoorsman
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 58 |
I use Hornady OneShot gun cleaner/lube to remove the fouling and after that I lube contact surfaces using small amounts of Weapon Shield.
Do you use a tight fitting nylon chamber brush? I brush the chamber out well with a nylon brush and then finish with a cotton patch. I don't use any cleaner or solvent.
We run a tight chamber to cartridge spec (basically a match chamber for ultimate accuracy) so 50rds suppressed may be too much??? I'm not sure I've ever shot more than 40rds without brushing out the chamber, usually every 30rds or so. I use brass brush and cotton patch. When I finish cleaning all parts of the barrel look as new. Maybe you are correct and what I see is normal especially while fire forming brass. I wonder what other people can say on subject. Am I the only one who attempted to shoot suppressed 50 converted rounds without cleaning?
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: eugenesan]
#8073646
12/03/20 12:52 AM
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Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,230
Wilson Combat
Boar Meister
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Boar Meister
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,230 |
I use Hornady OneShot gun cleaner/lube to remove the fouling and after that I lube contact surfaces using small amounts of Weapon Shield.
Do you use a tight fitting nylon chamber brush? I brush the chamber out well with a nylon brush and then finish with a cotton patch. I don't use any cleaner or solvent.
We run a tight chamber to cartridge spec (basically a match chamber for ultimate accuracy) so 50rds suppressed may be too much??? I'm not sure I've ever shot more than 40rds without brushing out the chamber, usually every 30rds or so. I use brass brush and cotton patch. When I finish cleaning all parts of the barrel look as new. Maybe you are correct and what I see is normal especially while fire forming brass. I wonder what other people can say on subject. Am I the only one who attempted to shoot suppressed 50 converted rounds without cleaning? DJ please chime in here, I know you shoot a lot of suppressed rounds
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: dlrz71]
#8073992
12/03/20 05:21 AM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,818
djones
Veteran Tracker
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Veteran Tracker
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,818 |
as far as rounds between cleaning... my hunting buddies and i have spent over 100 rounds in a night, many times, and one or more mag dumps are usually involved. knowing that could happen, i always try to clean my gun before hand. that always entails a chamber cleaning. sometimes i would brush and patch the barrel but not much. i'm usually cleaning it right before a hunt and i'm anxious to get going.
my bolt is utterly disgusting. i wipe it off and oil it as well as the carrier, inside and out. lastly i clean out the barrel extension with a qtip. the barrel end is easy. the hard part is the backside where the bolt lugs engage. i break off the end of a qtip and use small needle nose pliers to hold the qtip almost inverted to clean the area where the lugs engage. if you've never cleaned it, you'll be shocked at how much grunge is there. if that's not clean, my bolt will not lock up reliably. the bolt lugs get some weapon grease. that may be why that area is so grungy.
letting the ammonia out of your chamber is a great tip i learned from bill right here. before, my chamber would be so corroded that i wouldn't be able to eject my loaded round after the hunt was over. usually i'd have to pull the mag and shoot the last round out.
also, if the rear of the bolt or the inside of the carrier have built up carbon, i eventually get that out. as usual, the right tools for the job make it easier.
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: Wilson Combat]
#8074033
12/03/20 12:00 PM
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Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 119
SDTurner
Woodsman
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Woodsman
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 119 |
I use Hornady OneShot gun cleaner/lube to remove the fouling and after that I lube contact surfaces using small amounts of Weapon Shield.
Do you use a tight fitting nylon chamber brush? I brush the chamber out well with a nylon brush and then finish with a cotton patch. I don't use any cleaner or solvent.
We run a tight chamber to cartridge spec (basically a match chamber for ultimate accuracy) so 50rds suppressed may be too much??? I'm not sure I've ever shot more than 40rds without brushing out the chamber, usually every 30rds or so. I've run 200 to 250rds in my 11" gun suppressed in a practice session with no reliability issues at all. Obviously, the bolt and chamber area is nasty, but as Bill said, you just keep it wet and it keeps running without issues.
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: dlrz71]
#8074046
12/03/20 12:23 PM
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Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 422
Dzhitshard
Bird Dog
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Bird Dog
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 422 |
I'm sitting at 170+ rounds with no cleaning of any sort, every shot suppressed with minimal lube when it was assembled new. I assembled my upper with a factory new WC Ranger barrel, an old Obama era gun run DSG coated BCG I had laying around & milspec carbine spring with standard buffer.
The ammo count is close to a 50/50 mix of WC factory 125 PH brass cased ammo & hand loaded TNT pills & Sierra PH pushed with 28.4gr CFE BLK mainly to see how CFE works since it's a new powder to me. It kills pigs but it's on the border of nasty & the top 5 rounds in my mag are always green & salty when I download. I plan on cleaning the gun at 200 & then will resume the weekend bolt/chamber wipe down & occasionally snake the tube.
She has been very reliable so far but doesn't want to seat without the forward assist when I draw the bolt slightly back and let it go after doing a tactile chamber check (in the dark) I've had 2 brass cases get gummy in the chamber overnight but they hand extracted & fired later.
I've never been a nickel case fan but for the reason Bill mentioned that's the route I'll go after I burn through all the brass case ammo I have.
Is this problem upper in question home assembled?
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: dlrz71]
#8074070
12/03/20 12:54 PM
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Joined: May 2020
Posts: 58
eugenesan
Outdoorsman
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Outdoorsman
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 58 |
@djones, @SDTurner, @Dzhitshard Thank you for chiming in.
@Dzhitshard Yes, the upper in question is custom built but I have no reason to suspect any of the components since they all function perfectly in 556/300blk configurations and replacing the components does not help, except the upper it self but what can be wrong with the upper which I lapped (both front face and the shaft)?
It seems like you guys tend to use factory or already "fire formed" cases while I am experiencing issues with shooting suppressed 25+ of freshly converted LC cases.
I am trying to figure if someone else attempted to "fire form" brass while suppressed and managed to shoot more than 25-50 rounds without issues.
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: dlrz71]
#8074212
12/03/20 02:37 PM
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 291
Graycard
Bird Dog
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Bird Dog
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 291 |
My setup consist of: Adjustable gas block, lightweight BCG, lightweight buffer and 10% reduced buffer spring. Honestly if it were my rifle I'd go to a mil spec bolt carrier, spring and carbine buffer. After that I'd adjust the gas without the suppressor until I had reliable lock back on an empty magazine then add a bit more for reliability's sake or go with a non adjustable gas block. Go fast parts are fun but if a gun's not reliable it's just an expensive paperweight. And the Ham'r doesn't recoil all that much. I have no desire to offend anyone, but my thinking goes along with ShadowFast1. Every time another non-standard part is added to the mix things change. Long before I would be worrying about the case neck being too thick, I would be wondering about the timing on the rifle. You can not change part "A" without it affecting part "B", "C", and "D". You changed the design of three parts of the "operating system" and are trying to compensate that with a adjustable gas block? Good luck. First, to solve any problem you first need to reduce the variables. Go back to "standard" parts (I would suggest all from the same maker, such as Wilson Combat) and factory ammunition. At that point you may discover you no longer even have a problem. Then you can add in your handloads following the data listed on Wilson's website. Basically you are doing one change at a time and that helps you discover what the problem may be. At that point add in the suppressor.
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: eugenesan]
#8074315
12/03/20 03:43 PM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 19,979
Judd
#1 Creedmoor Fan
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#1 Creedmoor Fan
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 19,979 |
I am trying to figure if someone else attempted to "fire form" brass while suppressed and managed to shoot more than 25-50 rounds without issues. I have not...at $30 per 100 cases, it's not worth my time to make cases from other brass. The WC brass appears to be pretty good brass too, I've stuck to my original 100 cases to see how long the primer pockets would last...I've got 4 firings on most of it and they are still holding pretty tight. Good luck, stuff like this is aggravating to attempt to figure out. I do agree with Greycard, changing one variable at a time will help significantly.
Don't let your ears hear what your eyes didn't see, and don't let your mouth say what your heart doesn't feel
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: eugenesan]
#8074426
12/03/20 04:57 PM
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Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 422
Dzhitshard
Bird Dog
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Bird Dog
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 422 |
@djones, @SDTurner, @Dzhitshard Thank you for chiming in.
@Dzhitshard Yes, the upper in question is custom built but I have no reason to suspect any of the components since they all function perfectly in 556/300blk configurations and replacing the components does not help, except the upper it self but what can be wrong with the upper which I lapped (both front face and the shaft)?
It seems like you guys tend to use factory or already "fire formed" cases while I am experiencing issues with shooting suppressed 25+ of freshly converted LC cases.
I am trying to figure if someone else attempted to "fire form" brass while suppressed and managed to shoot more than 25-50 rounds without issues. It was late when I posted. I should have prefaced asking if you've proofed the upper with a known good ammo source or components prior to jumping into attempting to convert your own brass. I'm sure if you're jumping into Fire forming your own brass you're likely pretty confident with the erector set upper assembly. I've assembled a lot of uppers and I've made more than one mistake on assembling gas systems over the years, even with known good, reused equipment. I've seen a handful of gas block alignment issues that produced non typical symptoms. Excessively dirty chamber on a Whisper was one of them. Its very likely there's an anomaly with your brass production but it's nice to have all the variables out of the way before chasing that. Best of luck. I'll be keeping an eye out for your resolution in case I have to ever resort to converting brass.
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: eugenesan]
#8074865
12/03/20 09:18 PM
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Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 422
Dzhitshard
Bird Dog
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Bird Dog
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 422 |
@djones, @SDTurner, @Dzhitshard Thank you for chiming in.
@Dzhitshard Yes, the upper in question is custom built but I have no reason to suspect any of the components since they all function perfectly in 556/300blk configurations and replacing the components does not help, except the upper it self but what can be wrong with the upper which I lapped (both front face and the shaft)?
It seems like you guys tend to use factory or already "fire formed" cases while I am experiencing issues with shooting suppressed 25+ of freshly converted LC cases.
I am trying to figure if someone else attempted to "fire form" brass while suppressed and managed to shoot more than 25-50 rounds without issues. Disregard. I re-read & see you are apparently only talking about this issue when you FIRE FORM brass & have not specifically said you've had the issue after you've formed and reloaded it afterward. Good luck.
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: dlrz71]
#8077002
12/05/20 01:16 PM
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 512
DavidK
Tracker
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Tracker
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 512 |
Few hogs and yotes with the 135 Sierra, didn't have any Hornadys. Ended up with 12 hogs, 8 coyotes, 1 raccoon and 1 deer this trip. 16" 300 HAM'R with Wilson Combat Whisper suppressor. Had to freehand the hogs in the field.
Last edited by DavidK; 12/05/20 01:20 PM.
Wilson Combat Pro Staff
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: eugenesan]
#8077105
12/05/20 02:38 PM
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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 56
OneK
Outdoorsman
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Outdoorsman
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 56 |
@djones, @SDTurner, @Dzhitshard Thank you for chiming in.
@Dzhitshard Yes, the upper in question is custom built but I have no reason to suspect any of the components since they all function perfectly in 556/300blk configurations and replacing the components does not help, except the upper it self but what can be wrong with the upper which I lapped (both front face and the shaft)?
It seems like you guys tend to use factory or already "fire formed" cases while I am experiencing issues with shooting suppressed 25+ of freshly converted LC cases.
I am trying to figure if someone else attempted to "fire form" brass while suppressed and managed to shoot more than 25-50 rounds without issues. I have never shot anything but LC brass. Thousands of rounds and reloaded it several times. I've never had any malfunctions because of being suppressed with LC brass. I clean my rifle every couple of months but mostly just add more grease and oil to the carrier. Every round has been suppressed and I've never fired it without the suppressor. I really have not had any issues because of the brass. My rifle is piston operated so my combination of buffer and spring will not be of any value to you. Disclaimer: I also hunt with DJ so I can't be too smart!
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: dlrz71]
#8078269
12/06/20 03:18 PM
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Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 20
hill.brandonj
Light Foot
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Light Foot
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 20 |
I’m late to the party. But at least I’m here!!! Upper on the way and lower build in progress right now. One question I have is , will H2 buffer in a 16” build work well for me. I will run it supressed Let’s say 50/50. Maybe more.
Thanks in advance!!
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: hill.brandonj]
#8079180
12/07/20 11:58 AM
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Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,230
Wilson Combat
Boar Meister
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Boar Meister
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,230 |
I’m late to the party. But at least I’m here!!! Upper on the way and lower build in progress right now. One question I have is , will H2 buffer in a 16” build work well for me. I will run it supressed Let’s say 50/50. Maybe more.
Thanks in advance!! Welcome to the group I run standard buffers and 37 coil chrome silicon flat wire springs (WC #TR-FWBS37) in my guns, both suppressed and unsuppressed with no issues. We've never seen a need to run heavier buffers with this caliber. However if your going to run suppressed 50% of the time you might consider an adjustable gas block because the gas port size will be proper for non-suppressed use.
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: dlrz71]
#8079535
12/07/20 04:16 PM
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Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 20
hill.brandonj
Light Foot
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Light Foot
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 20 |
Awesome. Thank you for the advice! I haven’t been this excited over a new gun/caliber build since my Grendel almost 11 years ago.
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: dlrz71]
#8080605
12/08/20 05:11 AM
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Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 422
Dzhitshard
Bird Dog
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Bird Dog
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 422 |
Has anyone loaded the Speer 150gr SP #2023 with success?
I grabbed them thinking they were part number #2022 from the recommended list but noticed I was off a number a few days later when I shuffled the boxes on the bench.
I can't find specifics on the Speer site & I wasn't sure if the ogive was located in the same place as the #2022 so I could use similar charge & COAL data. With parts being unobtanium right now I'm not real excited about being a lab monkey.
I also found some OLD Remington 150gr RNCL that may be worth a shot later next year if things are still as bleak as they seem now. On the really off chance anyone has successfully worked something up for them I'd be interested to hear about it.
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Re: WILSON COMBAT 300 HAM'R
[Re: dlrz71]
#8081878
12/09/20 03:05 AM
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Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 63
IRUAK88
Outdoorsman
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Outdoorsman
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 63 |
Howdy from GA Y`all! I've read this forum over and over and finally took the plunge into the World of the HAM`R! On 10/25 when Shop Wilson Combat had the sale, I swooped 2 - Ranger 16.2" 1:13's for a Twin KP-15 build. Just minutes after I got notified Midway had the Lee Die sets in and grabbed a set. Pretty darn excited to say the least. I've loaded for several large frame .30cal gas guns for years, as well as .223/5.56. I never jumped on the 300blk band wagon because I never intended to shoot anything suppressed and personally don't see how Sub-sonic hunting could be humane/ethical on deer beyond 50-75yd without head or neck shots. (Not trying to offend anyone, just my personal perspective)
I'm sure I'll ask plenty of questions that I haven't already found an answer to here, as I finish my rifles and begin reloading for them.
@Dzhitshard Take this for what you will: Back on March 1st I scored 3,500 Speer #2023's for 11¢ ea, using gun.deals to find the cheapest retailer and used the Speer/RCBS rebate.. I load and shoot a lot of them in .308. One of the best bang for your buck bullets out there. I just made a HAM`R modified case and using Hornadys OAL case Gauge I repeatedly measured 2.406/2.407" OAL on the 2 New barrels touching the lands.. YMMV on your exact chamber cut, but magazine length should be fine. Since I've yet to reload for HAM`R and don't have any #2022's to compare OGIVES.. I can't offer much more help.I looked at quickload but they have the #2023's listed as .960" when mine measure 1.046" so that was of no help either.. I would like to think they are very similar and or the same, one just being a boat tail.
Happy & Safe, Hunting, Shooting, and Reloading to all!
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