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Another fence question #6797581 06/19/17 01:45 PM
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So "if" I decided to build my fence using drill stem fence pipe and used galvanized welded wire and attempt to weld it to the top rail and post? Welding galvanized is a bugger. How would be a better way to attach the wire to the steel? Use a different wire in my mig welder? Also a good "easy" way to notch the posts for the top rail?


Re: Another fence question [Re: GLC] #6797613 06/19/17 02:09 PM
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If you want to cut your own saddles, use a template:



They also make pre-cut saddles you can buy. 2 7/8" thin wall will sleeve over 2 3/8, so you just buy the saddle and weld two spots instead of one. Looks similar to this:


I honestly don't know if you can weld the wire (unless you're talking cattle-panel thickness) without burning through it.


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Re: Another fence question [Re: GLC] #6797627 06/19/17 02:20 PM
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First, don't buy galvanized welded wire. Welded wire is crap. Buy wrapped wire.

No, you will not weld it to the fence. You'll burn through it. Buy a roll of 14 ga. hot wire, and use it as a tie wire. Pair of lineman pliers and some time is all it'll take.

Buy a saddle jig. Since you won't be doing this all the time, it's probably not worth buying one that clamps to the post and works as a torch rest. The red jig pictured is for scribing with soapstone. Mark the bottom valley of the saddle line 3/16" higher than the bottom of the jig. Those are built where you'll have a gap in the bottom of the valley, if you follow the line exactly.


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Re: Another fence question [Re: GLC] #6797630 06/19/17 02:23 PM
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buy some small chain (with the heavier links), cut some in half, string wire, weld link over wire. if you want the wire to not slide in the links then while it is hot from welding strike it a couple of times with a good hammer and flatten it.

for your saddles, buy the precut as they will save a lot of time for ya.



Last edited by hopalong; 06/19/17 02:26 PM.


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Re: Another fence question [Re: GLC] #6797693 06/19/17 03:26 PM
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Cutting the saddle is easy after you get the theory down. I eyeball the top pipe size and cut a vee about the same width and about 1/3 the depth of its diameter in the post top. I like to have a 2' pipe stub to use as hammer to pound the vee to shape while it's hot. Stick welder ties it all together. After you do the first one or two, it's easy.


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Re: Another fence question [Re: GLC] #6797694 06/19/17 03:26 PM
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Guess I can probably just burn all the line post and cut saddles with a torch. Any idea about the pre-cut saddles? Price? Where to get?

Wow, just priced the saddles, almost as much a a post. Guess it will be a torch.

Last edited by GLC; 06/19/17 03:28 PM.

Re: Another fence question [Re: GLC] #6797703 06/19/17 03:30 PM
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Check the local high school for a welding class. They'll show you. It ain't rocket surgery.


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Re: Another fence question [Re: GLC] #6797708 06/19/17 03:33 PM
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DIY forum

Re: Another fence question [Re: Cast] #6797717 06/19/17 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted By: Cast
Check the local high school for a welding class. They'll show you. It ain't rocket surgery.


Grew up on a farm and did take shop. Been fabricating off and on for 40 years. Have a stick, mig and a torch but not a plasma for nice cuts. Just always looking to see if anyone has any short cuts. I don't enjoy re-inventing the wheel.


Re: Another fence question [Re: Chunky Monkey] #6797718 06/19/17 03:43 PM
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DIY Forum -Yep, that is probably where I should have went first.

Last edited by GLC; 06/19/17 03:45 PM.

Re: Another fence question [Re: GLC] #6799938 06/21/17 05:35 PM
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I have a Klutch Plasma 375i 230V 40 Amp. Bring the pipe up here and you/we can get it cut. Just an option.


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Re: Another fence question [Re: GLC] #6799973 06/21/17 06:07 PM
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It really doesn't need to be a pretty cut. They look the same once welded up.


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Re: Another fence question [Re: GLC] #6800361 06/22/17 12:05 AM
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if you are cutting them with torch try this.

take a pc of flat that will cover the end of pipe, cut a circle to id of pipe, cut in half, tack a pc of angle to the half, use as template to mark posts.

they will come out better and are much easier to cut with soapstone lines.



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Re: Another fence question [Re: GLC] #6800377 06/22/17 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted By: GLC
Just always looking to see if anyone has any short cuts. I don't enjoy re-inventing the wheel.


Ser your posts to a string 6" to 1' off the ground to get the fence in line. You need a minimum height sticking out of the ground. Let em run wild on top. Once they're set, pull a string for the bottom of top rail, where you want the height to be. I won't get into the long process of making it roll perfect with the ground. Go to each post and soap stone a line on the post where the string hits. Remove the string. Use the flat edge of that red saddle jig pictured previously to move the soap stone line around to center of the post looking down the fence line. 1/8" below that line is where the valley of the saddle jig goes. Mark it. Cut with a torch. Lean the torch 45 toward the direction of the cut, start at the hip of the saddle working down to the valley, go all the way around.

Next.

Literally, I've build miles upon miles of pipe frame since 1996, and this is how it's done. Except I use a Shur Kut clamp on saddle jig.

000 torch tip to cut. 1/8" E6010 or E6011 to weld. No plasma, no MIG. Neither will reach far enough, and the MIG won't work in the wind.

Last edited by FiremanJG; 06/22/17 12:29 AM.

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Re: Another fence question [Re: Chickenman] #6804952 06/26/17 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted By: Chickenman
I have a Klutch Plasma 375i 230V 40 Amp. Bring the pipe up here and you/we can get it cut. Just an option.


Really appreciate that, Don't quite know the timeline on our house. Once that happens I may touch base with you.


Re: Another fence question [Re: J.G.] #6804959 06/26/17 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted By: FiremanJG
Originally Posted By: GLC
Just always looking to see if anyone has any short cuts. I don't enjoy re-inventing the wheel.


Set your posts to a string 6" to 1' off the ground to get the fence in line. You need a minimum height sticking out of the ground. Let em run wild on top. Once they're set, pull a string for the bottom of top rail, where you want the height to be. I won't get into the long process of making it roll perfect with the ground. Go to each post and soap stone a line on the post where the string hits. Remove the string. Use the flat edge of that red saddle jig pictured previously to move the soap stone line around to center of the post looking down the fence line. 1/8" below that line is where the valley of the saddle jig goes. Mark it. Cut with a torch. Lean the torch 45 toward the direction of the cut, start at the hip of the saddle working down to the valley, go all the way around.



Next.

Literally, I've build miles upon miles of pipe frame since 1996, and this is how it's done. Except I use a Shur Kut clamp on saddle jig.

000 torch tip to cut. 1/8" E6010 or E6011 to weld. No plasma, no MIG. Neither will reach far enough, and the MIG won't work in the wind.


Then maybe you need a refresher course at my place? grin

Are you saying to stick weld it not mig?

Probably going to invest in a post hole digger for my tractor, drill holes part way, then drive posts partway just to get them to stand up and correct height, don't know if it would be better to put the top rail on first to verify nice and neat straight line and weld and then concrete or set posts in concrete first and then put on top rail, risk a little squiggly line? Still pondering, most of this I will be doing it myself as usual. Oh forgot, will be 5 foot tall with wrapped wire not welded wire. up

Last edited by GLC; 06/26/17 09:20 PM.

Re: Another fence question [Re: GLC] #6805232 06/27/17 01:06 AM
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Gotta stick weld it outdoors.

Pull your first string about a foot off the ground, point A to point B. Use a measuring wheel to spread the posts out every 8', using ground marking paint where your anger bit goes. Your ground paint "dot" should be on one side or the other, about 3" horizontal away from the string. Leave the string, need a helper to keep it off the auger bit, drill the holes.

Clean out the holes with a PHD, if needed.

Throw the posts in the holes, leaned away from the string.

Spread out concrete at each hole.

Set the side of the posts up to the string, and level at the same time. This is the trick to a straight fence.

Like I said, you only need a minimum height. When we set posts they're all over the place, on top. Once they're set-up hard, pull a string at top rail height, Mark the posts, and cut them into saddles.
Don't cut corner posts, or gate openings into a saddle, leave them standing up. When you start toprail at a corner or gate post, saddle the top rail, and run it horizontally into the post. At every other junction the top rail is sitting on top of the line posts. At those corner or gate posts, once the top rail is tacked to them, cut the post off above the top rail, with a flat 90 cut. Weld down a dome cap, or a flat cap, whichever you prefer.


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Re: Another fence question [Re: GLC] #6805275 06/27/17 01:32 AM
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Appreciate it, sounds like a plan.


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