I need some design ideas for a permanent, above ground, duck blind. I would like to keep the materials simple, like 2x4s, 2x6s and plywood. I�m thinking 4 man with room for 2 dogs � maybe 2 platforms for the dogs.

The blind will be located at waters edge in some woods.

All suggestions and ideas appreciated! Especially photos!

JP, in order to really convey a workable design, I'm going to need to check out said area that you plan on emplacing this "blind" (just to ensure there are in fact ducks at this location)

Ok, seriously, Cappy has a great setup, along with a couple others..Good luck

Don't worry Rick. By the time you get back, I'll have the duck bind set up and the duck boat will be finished. If hunting is slow at the blind, we'll jump in the boat and go find another spot.

Right now we have masses of green heads, wood ducks, buffleheads and a mixed bag of many other species.

Here is a post from Cappy. Good luck with it!

http://www.texashuntingforum.com/ubbthre...d66d#Post445327

Very cool blind, but not what I am looking for. This blind will be in a wooded area and the floor will be a foot or two off the ground.

How many would be hunting at one time on any given day? Do you intend to stay late where you would need essentials such as a cook stove for coffee and bisquits. You have to give us some info.

3 people most of the time, but I may build it large enough for 4 - a shelf to hold shells and incidentals and maybe even 4 gun holders. No need for a cook stove or other stuff like that. The cabin is about 150 yards from the blind. Either room for 2 dogs inside, or 1 or 2 platforms with cover.

I may go with something removable in front - possibly a frame for ghillie material.

I tell you JP I would go with a 16 foot. 8foot divided by 3people and two dogs just aint enough. 8 feet per divided by three is 2.6 per person. At 16 foot you get five foot per person and yopu can bring more people when you want to.
So far as blind hunting I am a fan of a fall away door that when closed is angled back over the blind. I am going to draw a rough sketch and see if I can post it to here.

lets see

Alright JP looking at the drawing the two rectangle squares would be hinged to the blind at the bottom only when closed they hit a stopper in the blind. They are in a closed position now, when you push them they fall towards the front of the blind out of the way of the shooters and surprised Mr. Greenhead. Use tar paper and shingles on the roof and treated wood on the floor. Big heavy fence posts buried in the ground will lead to the rest of the construction.

for the outside put a message out on the forum and ask people to sae their old materrial for the grass boat blinds. After a few years they dry rot and have to be replaced. You can jus staple it to the blind and you can use what ever is around the blind and stack it up.

The fall away doors are just any old scrap metal such as angle iron, conduit what ever you can find. Weld the freme and then weld in either a cattle panel or regular hog wire. Feed corn stalks or any natural material back and forth through the holes in the wire and wire tie it in. You can see out but they can't see in. Just a slight push and away it goes.

The roof in the rear is essential for the rainy days. You can sit on the bench in the rear of the blind and the rain will stay off of you pretty well.

If you want a detailed measurement sketch I can do that as well. Are you south or north Texas? If your close I can come and help you. What I like to do above the dog exit door is to cut a window where only their head will poke through. It won't bother the birds and it keeps them from breaking, you know how they get bad habits while your attentions are elswhere. When you ready for them go you open their door and send them.

That's about what I am looking for. Here's my only opinion/question ... I like standing to shoot. Your blind looks like you are shooting from a sitting position. I'm not totally against sitting and it may be the best solution, but I want to consider all the options before I build.

Actually no. you sit until you get some birds working and then stand up to throw the door and shoot. The blind should be 16 foot by 6 or seven foot deep. Plenty of room to stack gear, dogs and standing up. Oh it is as tall as the tallest hunter, unless you don't like the tall hunter.

Oh and while we are at it, be sure the roof has some sort of pitch to the rear so the water will run off and not fill in underneath the shingles. If rain water can get in under the shingles it will rot the substrate.

It might keep you safe from monster attacks but if your wife is on the rampage your on your own. That was some funnuy stuff right there threecurl.


Oh JP when did you come to the duck hunting darkside? I didn't know you were a quack smacker. If you don't want us to tell anyone we will keep it a secret.

WAL1809-

I'll send you a PM when we are ready to build. Will probably start in 3-4 months.

Not a problem. If you need help with the biuld process I have air hammers chain saws ect. I will be looking forward to the PM. I love building blinds, it passes the time of the off season.

We got a crew and tools to build it. If you came to the site in east Texas, all you would have to do is point.

In the meantime I will draw a detailed blueprint for you. I aint good at pointed though I will have to get in there and help.

Here are a few of the one that I built on my lease...

24' long
6' tall
8' deep

J.J.

4'x12' 3 man, 2 dawg blind. Rear entry door for hunters, front door for dawg access to the water. 2X6 floor covered with 3/4 ext ply, 2X4 stud walls covered with 5/8 ext ply. All wood was treated then given 2 coats of exterior latex.

Floor


Back wall



Front wall



Pre-assembling in barn and painting



Hauled to site in sections, set in place and assembled before brushing



This is a 4X8 blind built essentially the same way. Pic illustrates 4X4 corner posts buried 36" deep and set in quickcrete. The blind sits in 4-5" of water during season. The 2X6 floor frame is attached to the posts and leveled before attaching the 4 wall sections that are pre-fab'd. Concrete blocks support the floor section in the front and back centers.



Way too many other things I could tell you about the construction and assembly so just ask if you have any questions.

Thanks for the photos. Lots of good ideas.

JP you should also check out John Wester's on the water blind, it has a pull-in dock for the boat, all covered in live cane, looks great.

I believe he has already POACHED some ideas from it..lol