Ive got an unbedded rifle that will shoot 1/4 MOA or less.

Today at, 3 pm I cold bored 600 steel then went 700, and 800. Wonder how that happened without bedding? My 7 Rem Mag is bedded, so I believe in it. But in OP's case he should shoot it after tightening the action screws and see what he gets.

IMO, bedding of the receiver is a last step measure to increase accuracy after all the other issues that can reduce accuracy. In other words, bedding gains a little extra that might not be available otherwise. But even with a bedded receiver, a rifle that has easier to correct and more common issues will not be accurate.

So in other words, you're both right. Bedding can increase the accuracy of most rifles, but many rifles, if setup correctly, don't require bedding to be plenty accurate enough to provide excellent performance.

Just my $.02, but most shooters, myself included, don't shoot accurate enough to get the extra performance created by a bedded receiver.

I seriously doubt I'm flinching or anticipating the recoil. I'm a pretty good shot and the trigger on this gun is good enough that I'm able to surprise myself with a smooth pull of the trigger almost every time.

Thanks everyone for the inputs. I'm going to get out later this week with the rifle now that the action screws are snug and I'll report back to let everyone know how it went.

Absolutely correct. Eliminate the other stuff first before screwing with bedding.

One thing about cleaning, though...some who we would like to believe are truly authorities say that jacket metal varies enough between manufacturers that you should clean all metal fouling out of a bore when you switch bullets. My opinion on that? None. BUT...don't buy into the assumption that just because someone else shooting an expensive hand-lapped barrel can get away without cleaning it for 500 rounds means that you shouldn't clean the barrel on your Model 70 for 500 rounds. You might find you need to clean well after 30 rounds, or 60 rounds, or 100 rounds...your call, you'll know. All barrels are NOT created equal. Don't buy into the notion that a barrel that fouls quickly can't be accurate, either.

I know that's directed at me. Although, I agree that not all barrels are created equal, and that some may want to be cleaned after 50, or 100, or 200, etc. The point is to make notes as to round count on the barrel, and how well it shoots with said round count. The notes will show when accuracy starts to fall off.

My 500 round round count was just an example of how a fouled barrel will shoot very well. Just an example, I should've clarified.

Thanks for the advice on cleaning. I've obviously been a little misdirected on that one. I'll start toning back the cleaning frequency.

Yes, I was hoping you would tell me of your cleaning methods. Most shooters over clean (or should I say, WAY over clean) their rifles. You should easily get 75 to 100 rounds at least before you need to clean the inside of the barrel. But, if I switch ammo (i.e.- powder or bullets) I will generally put a few cleaning patches on a jag to clean out the previous ammo residue and follow it up with a few fouling shots.

The OP stated that the rifle is not bedded!

A properly bedded rifle will never shoot worse! The fact that one thinks having an unbedded rifle is the way to go, is just hysterical!

If I take my barreled action out of the stock, that is bedded and reinstall my POA/POI will be damn near the same...your unbedded rifle...not even close.

This schit is phucking funny!

Tighten the hell out of them? Measure the twist rate?

Please explain the torque value of "the hell out of them". Also please list factory loads for the OPs rig that will not stabilize.

Nevermind. I'll do it for you.

1. It should be torqued to 40 in/lbs front and rear.
2. There are none.

As far as bedding either not being necessary, M70`s not having any known bedding issues or bedding after all else fails I don't recall ever reading such ridiculous assertions.

Anybody reading or posting know what bedding and free floating is for? Anyone actually done it?

If the OP is truly interested in owning a consistently accurate rifle do this:

1. Bed the rifle now or have it done. Make sure it's free floated properly. For a wood stock that would be in the .025 to .030 range.
2. Degrease base screws, reinstall with loctite and torque to 30 in/lbs.
3. Make sure mag box is not binding. If it is fix alignment and if necessary shorten bottom of mag box. This will be an issue and continue to be if you tighten the hell out of the action screws because wood will be compressed over time.
4. Degrease action screws, loctite and torque at 40 in/lbs. If the floorplate depth is incorrect bedding the FP is in order.
5. Reinstall your scope with the crosshairs perfectly perpendicular to the barreled action. If you do not your adjustments will be incorrect. On this very site I had someone tell me that it didn't matter if the crosshairs are crooked. One of the funnier things I've ever read.
6. Buy several brands of ammo in the preferred weight. Find the one you like best and pay attention to the lot number on the box. Buy as much as you need of the SAME LOT.
7. Adjust trigger to you liking. I'd recommend no less than 2.5 lbs as it's a hunting rig not a BR rig.

If you want an accurate rifle variables have to be eliminated at the beginning. If that's not logical I don't know what else to say.

BR shooters do the listed and more before shooting one round down the tube. They don't shoot, tighten, shoot, loosen, bed the action, shoot different bullet weights, tighten, hold their mouth a certain way, tighten ring screws, hyperventilate, etc.

Consistency from the get go is the key. Do anything else and you'll be best friends with your local hair club for men.

Eliminate the other stuff first before screwing with bedding.

That's my sentiment as well. While a rifle with a bedded receiver and with no other mechanical issues will never shoot better, even a bedded rifle with other issues will never be accurate.

Increasing cylinder compression will be of little consequence if one of the pistons has a hole in it.

Most modern factory sporters will group from 3/4 to 1 inch without touching the bedding. It might only be with one bullet weight but they will. I have a 30/06 that doesn't particularly like 150 and 180 grain loads but will shoot 3/4 inch 3shot groups with 165 gr Federal Premium. More important then group size the cold bore shot is dead on the second shot is about a 1/4 high it's the third shot that opens up the group. It all depends on what you want in accuracy remember even a pronghorn has a 15in X 15in vital area.

So what you two (nsmike and Texas dan) are saying is don't mess with it until you have exhausted everything else first?

What a load of crap! Karnis leads you two to water yet you won't drink. I'm sure all the long range shooters do it just like you two numbnuts....start wit a properly bedded rifle and all the other adjustment will fall into place.

Just admit you haven't a clue of what you are talking about, it is the first step to recovery. ..

Fail.

Fail.

Why are you so sure that a rifle that has loose action screws is also improperly bedded. I bet the OP gets his groups down under 1 1/2 inches by tightening them. I expect he can shave another 1/2 in off by finding a bullet the rifle likes. If you want smaller then perhaps you need to have a rifle built from scratch because a lot of factory spec barrels won't shoot smaller then 3/4. While your at it explain how Fireman JG's unbedded rifle shoots 1/4" groups.

14 lb rifle with a barrel like a truck axle in a light recoiling caliber. Oh and it won't average 1/4". Occasionally maybe. Bet it's a 6mm or 6.5 of some kind.

Speculating won't make a rifle shoot better. You obviously haven't worked on a rifle with anything but a screw driver purchased at the local box store.

If it shoots "good enough" without bedding then it doesn't need to be bedded. If it doesn't shoot "good enough" without being bedded then maybe it does.

What is "good enough"?

That's up to the shooter. MOA, minute of vitals whatever your chasing. I personally don't own a bedded rifle that I know off and mine all shoot good enough for me, I'd bet probably not for some though.

I don't want to jump into what already sounds like mud slinging but with this post Karnis is right, there is a lot that goes into all of this, thats why customs are expensive, attention to details and good components.

Reminds me of this classic photo!

Karnis Bed's every rifle for me before I even start

so true it hurts!

Few people realize how little margin of error it takes to increase group size by 1/4". The answer is approximately .001" from the line of sight. That 1 thousandth of an inch. Quadruple that amount and you have 1" at 100 yds. That's why bedding is important along with properly tightened screws that do not stress an action and erectors assemblies on scopes that are spot on and repeatable.

Now think about people that say they routinely shoot MOA with a hunting rifle. Maybe. But it certainly isn't simply attributed to tightening the hell out if some action screws.

Bedding should be done upfront why wait a bedded rifle never shoots worse. :smh:

I guess I'm one of the unlucky ones. The only bedded rifle I have shoots .75". That's worse than all my stupid unbedded factory rifles.