Headed to get a new custom length driveshaft in the morning.

Here's a decent photo of the MOOG front end kit we installed.

Going to lengthen the driveshaft 1.25" to compensate for the lift.

Here's the list of things to repair next

Stealing line has a bad fitting or a leaky hose, drives fine now but still fixing it. There's a line in a loom behind this one in the photo you can't see, leaking down onto the stead box.


Front passenger axle bearing is leaking


Door pins are next, both front doors

All the pics of stuff you are posting that you fixed and my lack of free time to do any of it.

Do yourself a favor, and get rid of the boots on the shocks. They can actually hold water and promote rust/corrosion. If you're gonna keep it in sand and rocks, then leave them on. But if you're gonna be running in mud or especially deeper wet stuff, then get rid of them.

Lots of good work going on there though.

I hear ya

I knew of quite abit of broken/not functioning correctly things but I'm almost at my budget and still need to fix the things posted above, exaust leak, door skin and mount led bar. No one makes a led door seal door mount for anything older a 2002, grr

I could be in $1200-$1600 cheaper but I'm putting the best stuff on it instead of low end or mediocre stuff

No kidding, never thought of that

Thanks it's been fun , bad thing is I'm a perfectionist..that means stuff cost more lol

I got the weather tech floor mats, not impressed with the front or back seat mars at all for what I paid. Just got the rear liner in yesterday so I'm anxious to see how it fits/looks. I'll be sending the others back

Well it's the first time I have driven it with it balanced and aligned with a straight drive shaft.. Not to bad but she still needs work, the transmission may be one of the weaker spots

Cody, that seal for your front axle leak will cost about $5:00 or less, will take about a minute to change..... after pulling the wheel, hub, cv shaft and such, not a hard job, just takes a little while, a few tools, and some mechanical knowledge, which from your posts, you have, so will not be a problem for you. Once you get the cv axle out of the way, the axle can be "popped" out with a screw driver or pry bar as its just held in with a snap/clip ring.

P.S.....nice looking toy and ride.

I had the cv shaft out during the front end rebuild and should have fixed it then but didn't know it needed it

The tranny needs rebuilt really bc of a hesitation/lope in 4th or 5th gear 62-66mph

First quote was $1800

I was going to rebuild the worn yoke on the front driveshaft but am putting it on the back burner. I'm getting into the trany and engine work now am have near zero exsperiance there

Was thinking of getting some for mine what don't you like about them. I really like the ones in the wife's Tacoma

The ones I got look just like a cheap walmart set, no contours, deff not molded to the floor, they are just flat cheapie. The rear cargo liner is 5' and molded, looks and works great!

Just picked up new door pins, fuel pump, axle seal and fuel filter

I'm going to have to figure out the power stearing line that leaking, not sure if it's a high pressure line or just a return line

Dang door pins are kicking my a.. this am, keep breaking the cheap bushings

I had to replace all the power stearing lines on my older chevy, it was pretty cheap and really easy.

Had a buddy that had a book on rebuilding the 700-R4 Likely what that one has. He said it wasn't too hard just time consuming nit picky and had to buy some tools, but the book took you pretty step by step though it. May be something to look into.

The pump isn't leaking just the line

It shouldn't have a 700r4, I would bet it has a 4l80e being a 99. That 700r4 tranny is junk

Unless its a 3/4 ton I bet its a 700 r4. I put mine through HELL, shifting on a little more than the role, power breaking it more miles than I can count with a trailer including a 30 foot camper on a 1/2 ton pickup and mine never missed a beat in total 265k miles. All I did was follow the maintenance specs in the manual. I even pulled the boat in OD which was supposed to be a no no.

Maybe wrong, looks like it may have a 4l60e

1/2 ton should be 4L60E
3/4 ton should be 4L80E
In that year range

Thats right varminter, I thought it was a 3/4 ton for some reason. As for the 700r4, they are weak compared to a turbo 400 tranny chevy used to make. I don't like any of the autos though, I would rather have a 4 or 5 speed, especially in a 4x4

It has a the 4L60E. I'm quite confident the tranny is good, I believe the fuel pump is junk. Got a new one but just filled it up a few days ago so I'm just putting around town when I need to in it to lower the level so I can pull the tank to access the pump. Got a fuel filter to swap as well. Still haven't gotten the door pins on the passenger door yet

Just me but I don't like pulling fuel tanks. I would cut a hole in the cargo floor to access the fuel, then weld some flanges on it with holes drilled in it to bolt back on. Put some rivet nuts in the floor and weatherstripping to seal it. Then cover it back up with the carpet. Maybe a little redneck, but I don't like extra work if I don't have to do it.

By the way its looking good

LOL, so you'd rather spend 2+ hrs. to modify the truck so that it will only take you 1 hr. to do a job that currently takes 1 1/2 hrs and only has to be done every 5-10+ yrs.? Just messin' with ya, I've been wrenching for almost 30 yrs. and despise pulling fuel tanks unless I have a lift...

nice burb