I've just recently started viewing this DIY forum and find it very interesting. In the past I've usually spent all of my time on the Waterfowl forum, but now that season is over, maybe I'll pull up a chair here and visit more often.

I saw a topic here about re-decking trailers and was surprised that few if any seemed to know how to get the last board or two in during a replacement without cutting the C-channel on the front or rear end of the trailer. Here are a few pic of my process a couple years back when we reconditioned a 16' car hauler trailer. I bought it new in 2004 and reconditioned it in 2011. I usually "waterproof" the deck 2X/year with a 50/50 mixture of diesel fuel and whatever cheap oil I have around. I'll even use old oil that I save from tractor or lawn mower oil changes. Despite that, the deck finally rotted out in year seven.















The first boards should easily slide into place by slipping them into the channels at an angle and forcing them into position with a hand sledge and small block of wood. I usually place 3 or 4 ten penny nails into the crack between boards to serve as a spacer for expansion/contraction later. Just keep moving them over as you install the next boards. Getting the last two boards into the two C-channels is fairly simple with a few blocks of wood and a hydraulic jack. Helps to have someone operating the jack (placed about mid trailer) while the other person bends the front end of the lumber down into the channel just as it clears. Then slowly letting the jack down will allow the last tow boards to slip right into place.

While all the old lumber was off, the metal under carriage was wire brushed as needed to remove rust and scale. It was then spray painted with Rustoleum black. The exposed metal parts of the trailer were coated with a zinc oxide paint. Wiring was repaired/replaced as needed with new rubber grommets added where the wire went through openings in the trailer frame. All new lumber was double coated with preservative before being installed.

That works just fine on long boards. Shorter trailers require a different technique.

Good info...thanks!

Did ya get much labor from the workers in the last picture?

Usually about the time I get to making some progress on something I look up and my working partner is nowhere to be found so a search party and but whipin is in order and they behave the rest of the day.

Snoopy ... when you get to be my age (72) and your two legged kids are long gone and living in other parts of the country, your 4-legged kids are not only your hunting buds, they become your 24-7 full time companions. And btw ... they are much cheaper to raise and far more appreciative of what you do for them.

Good info and great pics.

That is how I used to do it as well. But I also just use a long crow bar and lift up and slide it in place instead of having to get the jack out anymore. Both work really good with longer trailers. But When I do my smaller 5x8 trailers I have started to just replace with a sheet of steel and never worry about it again.


Walter

I have a little 5x8 trailer; could you elaborate on replacing with a sheet of metal?

I have a 20' trailer and have used the block and jack method illustrated here. The rough cut 2" x 14" oak is just too tough to get in. I ended up cutting the front hold down angle loose and putting the floor boards in place. Then laying the hold down angle back in place. Drill holes in the front angle of the trailer and the hold down angle for a couple of bolts. Now I can remove 2 bolts and get old boards out and new ones in place very easy.

Hint......

Watch where you put your fingers.......!


(Guess how I know?)

Well mine were 4x8 so I just got a plate of 3/16 steel and welded it in. since yours is five foot it would take a little more metal. But it is better in the long run as I never have to worry about it again.

Walter

11 gauge is plenty, I put it on my 16' over 10 years ago. 3/16" is sure heavy. Do not put down smooth! Tread plate is the only way.

In the summer I had to put a new floor in my 25' gooseneck. I researched every possbile floor I could install. I ended up calling Woods of The Mission in Sanger, and they mill telephone poles. They cut the entire floor for $308. That's a deal! Thus far is hasn't shrunk and hasn't swollen. I asked the main man there what I should treat the floor with a couple of years. He said "what do you want to treat it for? The EPA says this will last 17 years with no treatment."

They ought to be able to get you a 5x8 sheet of floor plate, I got one last week in smooth in that size.

I like those telephone poles. They do that in Bowie also. They worked good on my utility trailer, but are too soft for a heavy equipment trailer. I put them on my 35 ton lowboy and the dozer ate them up. It was back to Oak for it.

Good info!

I have a buddy here that mills old telephone poles for trailer flooring. It lasts forever, but I can see that a dozer would chew it up. If you do go with Oak, be sure it's White Oak and not Red Oak. Red Oak will rot very fast, due to the open grain. Trust me on that. And just for info, my buddy says that Elm is best for heavy service like dozers. The grain is all twisted and you just can't split it. It wears well, though I don't know how rot resistant it is.

Well, I imagine so. How bout some tread plate and it's over, forever? For regular duty its cost prohibitive, but you are definitely in the heavy duty application.

There's an saw mill in Tolar that cuts old railroad timbers (creosote white oak) for trailer floors.