Please keep disabled hunters in mind in your blind design.

I have to stick to a basic design due to manufacturing reasons, therefore I can't mass produce blinds that are 7 foot tall, have 3 different height windows or wheelchair accessible doors.

Once I get up and running, I will be able to do custom orders however

4x4 too tight,,,,at least 4x6

Overwhelming opinion is a 4x4 is too tight.

What about a 5x5?

5x5 is good but 4x6 is a better fit width wise for big guys or two people.

Carpet or foam the inside so touching a wall doesn't sound like a gong

Now your talking, with the 5x5 you'll be able to offer internal shelves and other options that the 4x4 just didn't have room for. Do you have a shear and bender big enough to handle sheets this big?

I need more than a 4x4 blind. Too small for me. I am usually hunting with my kids and I like a bit more depth than that. 5x5 is much better. If not than 4x6 will work with a window on one short side about 9" wide and 18" tall and with a piano hinge(can't forget about us bowhunters). Carpet on the wall and floor and insulated would make it very nice. A shelf in each corner would be nice. It would be even better if one or two of the shelves were cut for a rifle stand and have a buckle strap hold them in place. Maybe a plate on the floor to help hold them there too. A vent on the roof for those warm days would be good too. Make a good one and I would be interested to see them and very possibly purchase.

4x4 too small. 4x6 would be better in that many of us have blinds to take kids on a positive hunting experience where we're not constantly having to shish them whenever they want to talk and their not freezing to death on those cold windy days.

Myself, I would like a design that is not too heavy to strap on my Polaris Ranger so I can put it on a ridge that would be impossible to get a trailer to and I don't have the luxury of having a tractor.

I think a adjustable shelf under the windows would be great. I like to put my blinds 200+ yards away from the feeder, so many shots are uncomfortable for hunters not used to taking shots more than 100 yards. A shelf with adjustable height would allow us to use a sandbag wedge to make shooters more comfortable and confident taking longer shots.

Glass windows are a must. Plexiglass is impossible to clean and glazes up from the sun pretty quickly. Must be insulated and quiet.

You might want to consider using a design of a 2x2 frame, 2x4 framed and treated floor with plywood decking. Corrugated tin skin with foam board insulation. 45 degree angled veranda starting at the roof top down to the top window height. This doubles as a great storage space very accessable right above the shooting window. This design has lasted 8 years for me and looks like the day I set it up except the paint slightly faded.

Also light enough for 2 men to load in a pickup bed or strap to a Polaris Ranger.

An easy way to tie them down so when you want to move the blind it is not an all day event.

Anything with a 4 in it is a problem. It doesn't allow foot room.

Ill take a 5x5 over a 4x6 even with two people

5 x 7 would be good size for two hunters. Some insulation/sound deadening on the walls would be good as well. Windows with shooting rests are nice.

I've read all the replies. I personally like 4xwhatever blinds. (4x5, 4x6) so it will lie down between the wheel-wells of a pickup. For seats, I use bost seats mounted to a Power Pole with the base mounted to the floor. The seat can raise or lower with the pull of a lever like an office chair. I have some mounted on "off-set" type seat mounts. The off-set lets it swivel out and you can always get on target 360 degrees. I slao happen to like blind spots in the stand to "hide behind." I run my windows to 4" from the corners all the way around.

I will echo what others have already said... Window placement. When you are building/designing these, actually get inside and sit in a comfortable position and see how difficult it is for you to get a gun out the window, see what you'd be looking at, get a good cheekweld, etc. I would kill for a blind that didn't make me bend into a figure 8 to get a proper shot off.

4X6 minimum

a buddy of mine builds metal stands for their companies ranch. They specialize in RIE building used in industrial plants. so its like building smaller version of one of them. However when it comes to the relocating his building they are built almost like a skid. They have to big rectangular pieces of tubing, like frame rails, that stick out past the blind. they have precut 2-3 holes in them, you can simply hook a chain and drag them anywhere you want to go. These blinds are heavy, they are metel panels with 3" void filled with foam. They also use real slider windows. all you need is a satelite receiver and tv, you'd be good to go.....

5x8 is awsum size,,,but, will wear ya out playing musical chairs, I have 3 office chairs in mine with plenty of room. Mr buddy heater isnt in the way. The awning over the front windows is a great place to store backpack, extra propane bottles or whatever.

Idk of its posted yet, but add a shelf you can put a 2x4 on to rest your elbow, like using a shooting bench.

I think the reason MOST blinds started out at 4x4 was because of 4x8 sheets of plywood, a 5x5 would result in loss of material. You won't have that problem. Make them at least 5x5. JMHO.

we have 4x6 blinds and they are more comfortable to hunt out of than a 5x5 with two people .

there is plenty of foot room

I have a 5x5 and a 4x6. The leg room in the 5x5 is nice but with me and 2 boys inside its not wide enough. It can be done just not much elbow room. I hunt a lot now with my boys and the 4x6 works better. 5x6 would be perfect IMO. I can build a blind for $400-$500. The main issue for me buying a blind would be what it cost. It could be the nicest blind ever built but if it's too expensive Im out. Do you have a ball park figure on what these would cost?

I'm betting a lot of 4 x 4's get sold because that is all some folks can afford. The cost is all they can consider.

I have a metal 4 x 4 and rarely set it because I hate it. It's too small. In the spring, summer and fall it is too dang hot. The metal just absorbs and transmits more heat....and mine is insulated.

The idea that the heat escapes when you open the window/s is not exactly correct. It does to some extent, but is trapped above the window height. A vent or vents along the ceiling helps a lot.

If you insist on metal, then drop the metal floor idea. Use metal for bracing/support, but use 3/4" marine plywood for flooring. Water doesn't get on the bottom much at all. Mine looks like new after 6 years. The wood is much quieter.

You mentioned "legs 4" off the ground". If I understand that right, the blind will be 4" off the ground. I wouldn't like that. Good place for a snake to live.

Metal blinds are heavy. I'm fixin' to move it again and I dread it. I'll never have another one.

I like my 4 x 6's and 5 x 7's in plywwod. I run by and spray or roll them with paint every so often. They have lasted well....and at a much lower cost. Problem is, a lot of guys are lazy and won't keep them painted and sealed properly.

I hope these thoughts help with your decisions.

If you do a bow blind:
A bow blind needs to be 7' tall. I have a 6' 6" one that now has the imprint of the upper pulley of my bow in the ceiling. I had to stand up for a shot.
Also 5' is good. Pulling a bow back in a 4' blind ain't happin' unless you are a kid or small.
I like the idea previously mentioned about a lower shelf, about a foot below the windows. That keeps hand movement out of the windows.

If you do decide to incorporate any plywood or other types of porous materials, I highly recommend coating them with THIS or something similar. I've been using it on all types of stuff including deer blinds and it really seals up nicely. Will also improve overall structural integrity and helps dampen sound.

pee hole with mini septic tank