Hahaha, its good to see you have a sense of humor. It'll go good around here.

surprised nobody has mentioned how easy it is to change the barrel on a savage incase you ever plan on changing the caliber

If a gun shoots bad, 9 times outta 10 its the shooter, not the gun.
I prefer remington.
Don't have anything against savage though.
Supposed to be great guns.
But the looks of savage just dont catch my eye.
Kinda like a moped. Gets better mileage than a truck and gets you there just the same, but really wouldnt you rather have the truck/remington?.

Whats the differnce in process with this?

Glad you want to start a personal attack ( see the forum rules). Anytime you want to shoot one of this ugly ares savages against one of my Remingtons just hollar. I never attacked anyone, but like I said life is to short to hunt with an ugly arse rifle! And sorry I didn't know it was any of your business, but I still have every Remington I have owned minus one I sold to a friend that needed a rifle. Glad to see your so knowledgeable about ugly arse rifles, by the way sounds like your wife understands quality un like yourself

Never changed on but watched a buddy do one in an hour in his garage. Has something to do with it having a barrel nut. Here is the procedure if you want to read it.

This month were going to show you how to re-barrel a Savage Model 110 bolt action rifle; one of the easier rifles to re-barrel. The techniques apply to the entire 110 series. All you need is a Barrel Vise (available with either steel or aluminum bushings) with the appropriate bushing for the barrel diameter that you are removing, and a Barrel Nut Wrench. By the way, this wrench works on both the old, round notch and new, square notch barrel nuts.

On the average bolt rifle, you establish correct headspace by lathe-turning the shoulder on the barrel. However, with the Savage, all you have to do is remove the firing pin and ejector from the bolt, insert a GO Headspace Gauge into the chamber, screw the barrel into the receiver until the gauge bumps up tight against the bolt face, tighten the barrel lock nut and you have a barrel that is set up to minimum headspace. Lets go through the steps, one by one.

First, completely disassemble the rifle, remove the bolt from the action, remove the stock, and, if you have a scope, remove it, too. You can leave the bases on; they shouldnt get in the way. Completely disassemble the bolt; make sure you remember how it came apart so you can reassemble it later.

Heres a quick rundown on how to take the bolt apart. Start by removing the rear bolt plug. Depending on the age of your rifle, it will be a large, standard screw slot, on later models it will be an Allen head. Remove the bolt handle, remove the baffle assembly, pull out the cocking piece pin, and remove the cocking piece sleeve followed by the firing pin assembly. Now, pull the bolt head off the front of the bolt. Remember how the washer comes off so you can replace it the same way. Next, remove the front baffle. Remove the ejector so when you are setting your headspace you dont feel the tension that it adds against the gauge.

Youre now ready to remove your old barrel. Slide the Barrel Nut Wrench down the barrel and onto the barrel nut. Clamp the barrel in your barrel vise and loosen the barrel nut with the barrel nut wrench. If your gun is old or rusted you may want to put some Kroil on the joint at the receiver and the joint between the barrel and barrel nut.

Reassemble your bolt without the firing pin or the ejector installed. Slip the headspace gauge into the bolt face and let the extractor hold it in place. Slide the bolt into the receiver and let the bolt handle fall into the loaded position. Screw the barrel nut all the way onto the barrel, followed by the recoil lug.

Next, start the barrel into the receiver and tighten it down until it just bumps� against the gauge. Check the recoil lug to make sure its locating protrusion is in the recess in the action. Work the bolt handle. You should feel a little resistance at the very bottom of the bolt stroke. If the bolt is tight all the way, unscrew the barrel slightly. If there isnt any resistance at the bottom of the stroke, tighten the barrel a whisker. When you get that slight resistance, your headspace is correctly set at the minimum.

Clamp the barrel back in the barrel vise. Tighten the barrel nut against your lug and receiver. Use a pretty fair amount of force turning the nut. Remember, you are bringing together four different pieces of steel. I like to snug it tight by hand, then whack it a good one with a rawhide mallet to put the final "oomph" on it.

Double check the headspace by making sure the bolt will close on the go gauge, this time without resistance. Put a piece of .001 or .002 shim stock between the bolt face and headspace gauge and again attempt to close the bolt. You should feel resistance or it may not close at all. That tells you that all is well in the headspace department.

After you re-assemble the bolt with all the parts, reassemble the rifle and scope, youre ready to head to the range with the rifle you just re-barreled yourself

You are being disrespectful, show me where I attacked anyone personally including you! Wanna hunt with ugly arse rifle go ahead, but until you figure out what you are talking bout with my rifles you should prolly figure it out, ask how my rifles shoot before you run your head

I'm not sure yet. That's why I'm asking everyone's opinions. This really is turning out to be all about personal preference, as is with most things. I'm hoping Vernon has a little range I could use to shoot both guns then have him mount my starter scope on it and I can be on my way to shooting paper really far away and learning more about long guns and long distance shooting.

No matter what I get now, I'll probably end up with one of each at one point or another along the way. I've always enjoyed, and been pretty good at, hitting targets at far distances, I've just never had the interest in it to spend anything on it until now so I'm going to see how good I can get at it.

I will start off by saying I dont own either but have shot both, I just prefer a different rifle maker but BMD have you ever shot a savage or are they to ugly for you to even pull the trigger on one? Just curious to see your opinion of how the savage felt and possibly what model or caliber it was that you shot if you can remember

Really Everytime.

I have shot a savage in 22/250, and 30/06. They shoot ok, not really knocking the way they shoot. They shoot no better than Remington as claimed above, I have a tendency to customize a rifle where they shoot better than any factory rifle and I wouldn't spend an extra dime on a savage. If money is same the Remington will be worth more just do to action alone being worth $350. The first thing I am gonna do is trash factory Tupperware stock, have trigger worked or changed out and rifle bedded into a good stock, and you would lose your arse spending money on savage. I don't care for their trigger at all, rather have worked x mark trigger. The savage shoots fine usually, I just can't get past how ugly they are. Want my opinion I have voiced it strongly, u don't buy an ugly arse rifle and enjoy it

Again, YOU are the one being disrespectful as you were earlier to myself.."blah, blah, blah...and on and on about looks" - which have NOTHING to do with the performance of the rifle!! YOU are the one that needs to read what you posted (and what I posted for that matter - an actual bit of information) and then form an actual informative answer without talking down to anyone that has a different opinion than you.

By the way, are you wearing matching earings and bracelets while you shoot your pretty guns??

And, as i wrote, which you obviously didn't read or understand -- I have both and NEITHER is ugly. The savage is more accurate and the rem is a nice rifle, however i would probably choose the savage since i don't have the time or inclination to have to upgrade a rifle that I just bought so it will perform well.

More personal attacks from the newbie. Any time u would like to shoot and see how the pretty rifles shoot, hollar. I assure u you will throw rocks at the savage on just performance. Maybe u could put earring and bracelet and pretty up that ugly arse rifle you are so proud of.

Nor the knowledge that's evident!

Getcha popcorn ready!

So instead pay more for a rifle that you will end up customizing so much it looks nothing like the original? Lol sounds rational.

I can't say anything bad about Remington 700 as I have never owned one, and I can't afford to purchase a Remington 700 and drop an extra $7-800 into it to make it pretty and shoot better, but my Savage 110 in .243 has killed a lot of deer, and unless I pull the shot, hits exactly where I aim it. I don't understand this whole line of "its an ugly arse rifle" I don't think the 700 with a synthetic stock and a 111 with a synthetic stock look that entirely much different.

Look at actions, they are cheap!

anyway, i have no idea what you last post meant...have you read anything I wrote?
I have both, so, your reasoning is way off. I recommended he fire BOTH and decide.
You just talked about how pretty your remingtons are....i don't need to pretty up any of my guns, i just care how they perform their job.

Have a nice evening and be sure to look pretty tomorrow, I know it's important to you.

How can the action alone be worth $350 when you can get the whole rifle (ADL) for $349.99 at Academy?

And by the way the savage needs a trigger job as well, the stocks are Tupperware on savage as well as Remington which needs to changed to decent stock and both should be bedded? So where is extra expense? The savage action won't bring near what Remington will, lot easier to pick up used stock for Remington than a savage so what's your point and who said anything about $600 or $800 ?

That's what makes it a steal for $350, u can sell any Remington action for $350 with bottom metal. Don't believe me watch the classifieds at 24hourcampfire.com people buy the rifles at academy and sell barrel for $50 as a take off, sell stock for $45 to $50 and then use action to build customs regularly.

I will and rest assured they will still out shoot your ugly arse savage. Merry X-mas.

I was mostly just giving you a hard time, I know you have some very, very nice guns based on the 700 action....especially the Kampfeld or is it 2 Kampfelds (yes deep down I do hate you a little bit, jealousy is an ugly thing) I can't remember. I could care less which one people like more, or even which one he buys. I also have no doubt any of your guns could outshoot mine, I'm not delusional....at least they better, because if I got a better group with my $300 Savage you'd never hear the end of it.

And if you cared about performance you would know exactly what I am talking about, but I can see u don't.

Oh, but I do and the savage is a more accurate rifle out of the box, period! Note, previously I said it was probably more accurate, since all I have to go on is mine and the information available online....which, of course could be accurate or not.

I also have a browning and a winchester rifle....all perform well! But, the most accurate is a savage.

Maybe, it's you that doesn't care for performance?

As a matter of fact, my shotgun of choice is an old rem 1100....never jams and shoots dove loads just as well as turkey loads!