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Re: Refinishing a gun
[Re: Rick and Renee]
#1292599
03/08/10 04:35 AM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 110,840
dogcatcher
THF Celebrity
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THF Celebrity
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 110,840 |
Follow RonKaye's tutorial, a lot of work but the end result is fabulous. I use it on some of my high dollar special order calls and the reactions are great.
Combat Infantryman, the ultimate hunter where the prey shoots back. _____________"Illegitimus non carborundum est"_______________
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Re: Refinishing a gun
[Re: dogcatcher]
#1293304
03/08/10 05:10 PM
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 7,825
poisonivie
THF Trophy Hunter
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THF Trophy Hunter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 7,825 |
Lots of good advice on here. Can't wait to see the finished product.
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Re: Refinishing a gun
[Re: poisonivie]
#1293372
03/08/10 05:42 PM
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,597
Pointer
Pro Tracker
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Pro Tracker
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,597 |
I always found that Tru-oil built up too fast and was too thick and messy. I have done a job I could be proud of on several projects with thinner oil finishes like Tung oil. They turned out nice and have been quite durable. Good luck, Gary
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Re: Refinishing a gun
[Re: Downit]
#1293602
03/08/10 07:24 PM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,786
RonKaye
Pro Tracker
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Pro Tracker
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,786 |
Is it a good idea to put varnish over the oil? I wouldn't think that would be good. I Think which one you use would determine what type of finish you would want. Like, high gloss, satin, old flat, or antuiqe oil finish. You would use something different for each. I'm sure you get my drift. Applying varnish (or, for that matter, lacquer) over a piece that has been treated with Danish Oil is really no different than applying the finish over stain, with the exception being that the Danish Oil actually hardens the surface of the wood itself, rather than laying a hard layer on top of the wood. Failure to allow the Danish Oil to dry completely before applying the finish, however, can result in the oil bubbling up and ruining the finish. Using the blend of Danish / Urethane allows the semi-impervious mixture to actually soak into the grain more effectively than would straight urethane, thus producing a more durable finish, especially when followed by additional coats of the urethane. I strongly advise against using any of the satin, flat, or "antique" finishes. As noted previously, the additives put into the finish to cut the gloss also serve to soften the finish itself, leaving it more susceptible to damage and wear. If a satin finish is desired, it's better to use a durable exterior (UV-resistant) gloss finish, such as the Helmsman Spar Urethane, then to dull it somewhat with 000 or 0000 steel wool. That way, you get the more subdued final effect without compromising the durability of the finish.
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Re: Refinishing a gun
[Re: dogcatcher]
#1293627
03/08/10 07:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,786
RonKaye
Pro Tracker
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Pro Tracker
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,786 |
Follow RonKaye's tutorial, a lot of work but the end result is fabulous. I use it on some of my high dollar special order calls and the reactions are great. You're right about it being a lot of work, but its beauty will last for many years if done properly. IMO, it doesn't pay to take shortcuts on something you want to keep for a long time. And if the finish will stand up under saliva or sitting in a pocket on a call, you can imagine how well it will endure in the controlled humidity of a gun safe, or even against the occasional exposure to rain.
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