Share some of those special tip, tricks, suggestions, money saver, etc, you have picked up along the way.

1. CHANGING CALIBER AND RESETTING YOUR TRIMMER.
.

2. PRESOAKING TARNISHED BRASS

Because I have a single stage press. I will deprime and resize as many pieces as I can. I rarely leave once fired brass that hasn't been resized and deprimed laying in the drawer.

I'll trim, chamfer and deburr, and reprime all of it. Put it in the box it came in if it's once fired brass from ammo I purchased. I do have some brass that I purchased that came in a bag. I went to Academy and bought some of their ammunition carriers (50 round) to neatly hold the new brass that has been primed and is awaiting a load. I'll go ahead and put a label on it with the necessary information and leave the bullet, powder info, OAL, and date blank. That way when I know I'm about to have a day to go do some shooting I can load up what ever I need to experiment with or load up an already proven load to try at differnet ranges.

I've only been doing this for about 6 months now and love learning more about it. It is a bunch of fun.

Been considering doing this - I have a single stage as well but use two different primers so I would definately have to keep organized - gonna watch for ya'lls tips because I haven't been doing this long enough to offer any up

WHen using a single stage press. After brass has ben prepped and primed, I drop my powder charge and seat bullet befoer moving to the next piece. I never drop powder in multiple cases then seat multiple bullets. I have left powder out befoer.

When loading pistol ammo. I have a dowel rod that fits int the brass. When I get my powder charge right, I put the dowel into the brass and mark my level on the dowel rod. Then I check each piece after that to ensure I have not double charged any.

I started using spary lube for my rifle cases. This product really speed up the process.

Ronnie

I have heard using spray lubes on cases in a zip lock bag works good.
I have used mink oil boot wax and neuteral shoe wax (lanolin), and it also work very well if you apply by rubbing some on fingers.

LUBING RIFLE CASE NECKS:

I primarily resize with Lee Collet dies. With these dies it is not neccessary to lube cases thus I dont have to spend a bunch of time cleaning lube from cases. Also, I dont have to trim as often when sizing with the collet die. As a bonus, my groups tightened up.

And necks are not worked as hard (expand, resize, expand), Rounds are more concentric because they are sized around a dead center mandrel. They are some good dies.
Are you also using LFC dies on rifle loads?

PRINTING TARGET:

Yeah I built my own with Autocad.

THE BEST, LATEST, RELOADING DATA, AND MANUALs (FREE)

BRASS CARTRIDGE CASE WEIGHTS

Feel free to add to to the list.
Weights are average of mixed head stamp with primer.


DISCLAIMER: Above list is not my original work and was found on the internet. Citation to the originator would be given except that the exact same list shows up on multiple forums posted by different people. Kudos to whoever did the original. My own work confirms that 9mm, .40, .45, and .223 were all well within expected margin of error for these stated weights. Due to manufacturing variances found with different head stamps, the larger a sample size that is counted and weighed will yield results closer to a universal average. Due to the limits of my scale, I checked 10 random batches of 100 9mm and found they all weighed different amounts. I then averaged to a weight/thousand and found the stated 117/lb average to be accurate for a random mixed lot of 1000 9mm cases. Somewhat smaller batches of .40, .45, and .223 yielded very similar but not absolute matching results. I have not checked the entire list, but based on the ones I did check, I believe the weights listed are more than close enough for use when buying, selling, or trading brass to determine count/lb. or weight/thousand. I suppose I could have simply said Source: the Internet, but thought an explanation of how sample size can effect the resulting average weights might be helpful. Probably splitting hairs if considering 1000 case quantities but maybe not to all. Most of the time, a weight of only 10 or 20 averaged should probably get a close enough estimate for a person just wanting to get some reasonable idea when looking at buying brass by the lb. Most people selling or trading in bulk always throw in extras anyway but who the heck is going to count 1K-5K cases which is why bulk is often sold by the lb. YMMV ...Jon

Any more tips?

I don't think anyone mentioned keeping a log
I feel that is the single most important thing to
do when you reload regardless of the kind of tools
or components you use
The fellow that showed me how to reload many years
ago said to keep a log and I'll always have something
to refer to if I had any questions come up about a batch
of ammo I loaded,or I could refer back if I came up with
a "magic" load,etc.
I didn't do it for a while until I caught myself on some
ammo I accidentally overloaded.
if I hadn't had a note to refer back to I might have injured
or killed myself or someone else.
You might load something that works great in your own
firearm that might work for someone else,or may be too
hot for another firearm,etc.

keep a log! ! !

I should make it clear I meant a WRITTEN log in
addition to whatever computer files you may have

I also put a slip of paper in the box of ammo with
load info regardless of outside box markings

I'll second that. I also color code my brass whenever I get new stuff. I just take a Sharpie and color them blue, black, or red. Then, everytime I load those, I make note of it in the log. That way, I know exactly how many times my brass has been loaded, no guesswork...

I have just been writing the number of loads on them with a sharpie - colors sounds more fun!

a Giraud Trimmer will drastically reduce your brass prep time. I can trim, chamfer, and debur 200 pieces of brass in 15 minutes taking my time.

Giraud Trimmer Wished I had one. Thanks and Keep them coming.

James, my favorite trick is to call you and ask.

Thanks for all the brass Dave. I still owe you a coffee.

Thumbling, Walnut, and Corn Cobb Media discussion

Only keep one can of powder on the bench at a time. I mixed win. 231 and 748 while loading 40 s&w. I threw the whole bunch away. Lesson learned.

Excellent Rule Ruined some powder myself.

Also: Alway keep your powder in original well marked container with lot number.

I have had an easier time sizing when I chuck up a bronze brush in a drill & polish the burnt carbon from inside of the fired case necks a little before lubing and sizing.

I used to have a lot more resistance when the expander ball came out of the neck, now they seem to be a lot easier and don't stretch when sizing. I also polish the expander ball, which helps, too.

I only load one caliber at a time. It may take me a couple days to do finish, but I take my time and make sure everything is exact. I'm NEVER in a hurry. So, if I know I can't get them finished in 2 consecutive days I'll wait till I can.

I use the label that comes w/ the dies as my reference chart and ususally only write the "pet load" on that label. I also write on the label the OAL, primer, powder and OAL case length and bullet used. I use RCBS dies mainly w/ a single stage Redding press.

I never run dirty brass thru my dies. I always tumble first. Unless, the brass was new and was only fired once. I see no need to tumble every time. Espically once fired brass. The shine normally goes dull after handling them thru the preping sequence or over time from being handled in the field. Just because it isn't bright doesn't mean it isn't clean.

I use Redding Wax or Lee case lube. I use as little as possible and wipe off the brass before the next prep step. I always put a small dap of lube on the inside of the neck also. I can usually get 3 unlube brass run thru the die till I need to lube again. It depends on if I'm FLS (full length sizing) or NS (neck sizing) the brass.

I then make sure each one of the brass fit in the action of the gun. If there is one tight one it is run thru the resizing die till it fits correctly or it is crimped shut w/ pliers and thrown away.

I then run a copper brush thru the neck, debur the primer pockets (only w/ new brass and only one time is needed thru the life of the brass) and then clean the primer pockets. I then only use a Lee case length guage and cutter to trim the brass to length. I've never used any other case trimmer that is as precise as this one. It takes longer, but it is well worth it to me. Then chamfer the outside first and then the inside.

I never trim the necks since I'm not needing precise neck tension. I'm a hunter and am wanting to get as much life out of the brass as I can. The only time this is beneficial is for match shooters IMO.

I then use a RCBS hand primer and prime all of the brass at the same time.

I may then wait till the next day to load the powder (usually don't have enough time to do it all in one day). I'll cover the brass w/ a clean towel for the next day.

I only use a digital scale for measuring powder and go to the exact weight everytime. Never used a powder thrower and feel that my time is worth more than hoping the powder is the same. I know it is w/ the scale. I then seat the bullet. I will take a measurement of the OAL and make sure it is exact. I take measurements after every 5 finished rounds. I usually store them in plastic shell cases, but do have some cardboard boxes that haven't fallen apart yet.

The most important thing about reloading is consistancy to me. If you're not taking your time the end result will show at the range. You may think it is the wind or something else, but it could be because you're off on the bullet depth seating or a couple tenth of a grain more or less of powder.

Follow the published recipes to the "T"

http://www.texashuntingforum.com/forum/u...ion#Post1245373

I should've wrote in my post that I wash my hands just before handling the primers. I use to use latex gloves, but laxed from this step to just making sure my hands are free from oils from the case lube. I try not to handle them, but every once in awhile one flips over in the (RCBS hand primer) tray.

If you resize .30-06 brass to 8x57 Mauser, try using a bandsaw to trim about 1\4" off of the necks and deburr the cases before running them through the sizer. this saves a LOT of trimming afterward plus, it makes sizing much easier. I made a wood fixture that holds 10 cases at a time and used my rip fence on the saw to speed up the process, but my fixture got left out in the rain (long story) and warped so bad I had to scrap it. I'm good on 8x57 cases for now, so I haven't replaced it yet, when I do, I'll post pics and specs.

Never stop mid process for a distraction. Not to visit with neighbor, take out trash, or anything. It's too easy to loose track of what you were doing. Finish what you start.

If loading multiple pistol rounds on a single stage press, deprime all your brass in a single shot, take a lee auto prime in the house with your brass; in the air-conditioning reprime all your brass in comfort. If you feel o.k. doing it, I also use a 50 rnd. loading tray and my Little Dandy to drop powder on all my single stage stuff immediatley following priming, then return to my bench to seat bullets and crimp rounds.

If you have multiple handguns in the same caliber, invest in a Lee Factory Crimp, guaranteed to chamber in any handgun you run. Best money I've spent so far! seriously

Use a dryer sheet (Bounce works) wrap around powder container on your powder measurer. I use tape or usually ribberband to hold inplace.

dryer sheet for what may i ask

dryer sheets keep the static electricity down and help to prevent the powder from sticking to the inside walls of the powder tube.

Twist requirements to Stabilize bullets

I put a small mark on the neck and shoulder of each case. As I run the cases thru the different stages, I line up the mark facing the same way. This way, if there is any slight misalignment, all the cases are the same. I load them in the rifle with the mark facing up.

I have a Ruger target rifle in 223 and a T/C Contender w/14" barrel in 223. Different loads & powder of coures. I use regular brass for the Ruger and nickle plated brass for the T/C to keep them seperated during loading and shooting.
At the range I always lable my targets with the load I am trying: firearm, powder type, grains & primer. When I get home with the targets I put this info into a log. Always keep a log.

Always clean your firearm ASAP. I run a patch through the bore soaked in solvent at the range before I leave.

I hadn't heard of the Lee collet dies. That would vastly speed up the process. Is there any downside to them?

I am not new to reloading I just haven't done any for 13 years. My question is in that time have powders changed? I need to start reloading again and wonder which powder would be best for .357 and .45 long colt

Terry,
Welcome to THF
Powders manufactured test and try to maintain a constant standard. The variations from lot to lot is held to very close tolerances in burn rates. Lot of the loading manual have been lawyerized and charge reduced to protect manufacturers. Also there have been several newer powders added with better stability to heat.

For the .357 and .45 Colt loads you can get the latest from the powder manufacturer table by going to the links listed above.

New to Reloading, want to get started, here are some good tips and video that should help.


Accurate Reloading



Misc Reloading

I like to polish my brass with steel wool while I have it chucked on my drill, gets it shiny without much work

What do you use to chuck it in the drill without damaging the brass?

I use an unprimed case for my powder trickler, fill it 3/4 full of powder, tilt slighty and roll between fingers. Great inexpensive way to trickle powder onto scale one granule at a time.

Lee makes a stud and shell holder for your drill

That's exactly what I use, cheap and effective

After about four reloads on my mag pistol cases I put them in a metal 2 gallon bucket filled with lime and put them in the oven @ 350 for 45 min, then turn the oven off and let them cool down. Take the bucket to my shop and let it set over nignt, next day dump it out and separate the brass from the lime and clean. This anneals(sp) the necks and stops them from splitting.

I'm new to reloading, and I'd just like to say thanks to you guys for all the advice, tips, and info on the subject. I look forward to being able to contribute in the future, but in the mean time, I'll probably be posting some more questions. Thanks, Gary

Link to Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers' Institute (SAAMI). Good link with useful ingormation for standardized cartridges.

http://www.saami.org/

As always use caution when working up loads especially near the Do Not Exceed loads. This especially holds true when working up loads in cold weather, some components are more trmperature sensitive than others, and a load that is safe in Winter might be over pressure in the Summer.

Trick I use to neck size my rifle brass once fired and formed to my gun is to smoke my brass using masking tape. Once smoked
back up your die and work it down just off the shoulder. You can visibly see the ring off the brass shoulder very clearly.I use this method when a black magic marker is not handy to me.
works good.

reloading blocks can get expensive. I take a 2x4 and a sharp drill bit and drill holes slightly larger than the casing and about 1/2 way thru the wood. Using a 2x4 it still fits under the powder drop. Just an idea...

Best bolt action gun reloading tip ever= Lee collet neck size die.

Never shoot handloads that you are not 100% sure of........Like handloads that you might have got in a gun trade.

54 grains of IMR 4350 is sweet for a 130 in a .270 win
54 grans of IMR 4895............... not so sweet.

Accidents happen

Cabela's Fort Worth

Reloading Class Ever Sunday.
Look toward bottom of events:
http://www.cabelas.com/retail-stores-fort-worth.shtml

Two from a total newb so take them with a grain of salt:

1. I've taken to spinning my purchased (unknown) once fired brass like Lake City 7.62x51 brass in an electric drill as I inspect them. The lee shell holder for Lee's cutting system has a drill bit shank. If I don' like the way a properly seated piece of brass spins, I put it to the side. Maybe I'll mess with them someday, maybe I won't.

2. I do all my trimming, chamfering and deburring over a paper plate.

Excellent writes by THF members.

Single stage!

I use multi-colored case trays and move "right to left" and then "left to right" for each step. Never do more than about 25 at one time. Example:

Raw fired cases on the left > size & deprime > put on right.

Size & deprimed case from right > trim > put on left.

So on & so on........

Also, I powder & trickle each case by hand and immediately set the bullet. Time consuming but I know each case has powder.

(Will also mention my screw up - Once had a fan running in the shop across the room and wasn't paying attention. Air current was running by my balance scale and causing it to read light. I didn't catch this until at the range and noticed a possible over pressure (case examination). Immediately stopped went back, pulled all bullets, and checked load. When fan not running load was over max.......gun was OK) The little things will get ya!!

Once your media gets dirty what do you do? I went to Walmart and bought a Tide laundry bag. The mesh is fine enough to keep the media inside. I wash and dry it with some old jeans or towels to protect the bag. I put one regular scoop of laundry soap and a quarter cup of dish detergent in the wash. I have used media up to six times. Be sure to safety pin the zipper closed. It will come open and your wife will be mad. After washing and drying recharge with your fav formula and get back to pulling the handle.

Cartridge Case Capacities
http://kwk.us/cases.html

Cartridge Pressure Standards
http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/...e_Standards.pdf

Manufacturer (or in some cases the maker of the cartridge case, or distributor of the loaded ammunition, or a using activity, or other meaning.
http://cartridgecollectors.org/headstampcodes_bottom.htm

Tip for reducing bullet run out:

Set your bullet as ussual but then turn the case 1/4 turn and then run it into your press a second time.

I've found that when I do this simple little trick I can reduce run out from .004 - .005 down to .001 - .002.

Exterior Ballistics and Barrel Harmonics

Precision Ballistic Coefficienet Estimator

Ballistic Calculator

Thanks doveshooter;
Ballistic information
http://www.ballisticstudies.com/

.....

To change full lghth. dies to neck size, I was always told to set
them down on a nickle and lock adjustment..Seems to work every
time...re: Irving Reed Ackers..Durys Gun Shop...Don Dial Pipe
Creek, Tx

223 load information, good reads and info

http://www.6mmbr.com/223Rem.html

http://www.shootingtimes.com/2011/01/04/ammunition_st223_120606/

I have worked with Lyman "nutcracker" and the old Lee hammer type dies up to the point of now owning two Dillon progressives. Got involved in casting my own bullets, tried swaging, have sized brass down and filled it out, pulled bullets, loaded for accuracy and for maximum power loads, wildcats, AI, etc etc. Only say that to clarify this isn't my first rodeo.

My tip, don't loan your equipment to anyone, no matter how sorry you feel for them, what type of sad story they tell, how much you want to help them. I once loaned two of my manuals out to the son of a friend, years of notes and load data, and never received them back. If you want to give someone money to help them so be it, just don't loan things.

Stuck Fired case.

Make sure stuck breach is not causing jam.

Find a Radio Contol Hobby shop and get a piece of 3/16 or 5/32" music wire. It comes in 36 inch piece. Music wire is extremely hard and stiff. Pull back on bolt or remove recoil spring while:
Just let rod slide or drop down barrel and hit cartrdige. This should knock it lose. Your not going to damage rifleing sliding rod down barrel.

Now you have a fits most all tool ($2) for next time it happens

If case is stuck really hard, put the rod in barrel and measure it and add 3inchs. Use a grinder or cut off wheel to cut rod and dress both ends square. Wrap some electrical tape around rod where it is near end of barrel to keep from damage crown /rifleing. Add a washer to protect crown. Then use 6 to 8 oz ball peen hammer to tap end of rod while pulling back on breech, and tap case out.

X2
Got one for 22-250, and one for 300 Win Mag

Great reads guys. A co worker of mine makes his own rounds.. ill be sure to print off a few of these for him

Here are some good explanations about using the Lee Collet Dies

Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhTUgytUGnM&feature=relmfu



Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgHR43TN5Zk&feature=relmfu

Knew this theory, but I saw it come true with my handloads. FL Sized new .260 brass to book spec. Developed handloads. Reproduced said load for 300 rounds. Shot this load from 10 yards to 1000 yards and got good DOPE for the load/rifle/optic combo. The next time I went to size brass I measured the length to the datum of the shoulder since the brass flowed forward to fit my chamber. I reset my FL bushing die to bump the shoulders back .002" (two thousandths) reloaded the same recipe, same bullet, same powder charge, same primer, same seat depth.

Rifle/load combo made 50-75 more fps!

Shared this with a fellow competitor at a match and he said "oh yea on my .280 I reduce the load by one grain to acheive the same velocity as virgin brass.

FYI

A good thread on:
Setting Up Seating Depth

http://www.texashuntingforum.com/forum/u...pth#Post3312089

Thanks RiverRider

To make sure my beam scale is calibrated still, I use a match king bullet and zero it with that.

I'll take a 77 grain SMK and set my scale for 77 grains and zero it up with that by turning the foot, then adjust it for my powder load after zero without moving the scale.

I do my best to cross-check every load with at least one other manual. I've found start loads in one manual that listed as over max in another manual for the exact same powder and bullet weight. Also, it should be common knowledge, but never have more than one can of powder on the bench at one time. I ruined a 1\2 can of H4895 when I accidentally dumped a near-full powder measure of AA-2520 into it...

Hornady:
TRY OUR NEW & IMPROVED BALLISTICS CALCULATOR
Our new and improved calculator includes both basic and advanced features, allowing you to customize the shooting conditions to replicate your environment. Choose standard or metric, and enter the appropriate data to view your favorite load


Ballistics Calculator

Instructions

Our new and improved calculator includes both basic and advanced features, allowing you to customize the shooting conditions to replicate your environment. Choose standard or metric, and enter the appropriate data to view your favorite load.

Standard values are provided in the sight height based on the firearm type, but may be changed to match your setup. Default values are entered in the temperature and pressure spaces but can be changed. Once calculated, we offer a printable "cheat sheet" to tape to your firearm for quick reference.

http://www.hornady.com/ballistics-resource/ballistics-calculator?utm_campaign=TH-Ballistics%20Calculator%20Announcement&utm_medium=email&utm_source=newsletter&utm_content=GO%20TO%20THE%20CALCULATOR%20%3E

One powder at a time, visually inspect every powder charge and establish some rule for weighing the charge (every 5th etc.). The tighter your control over the process the more uniform your loads will be.

if you use them on bottleneck cartridges, just remember to double check that they will feed into your rifle before you go hunting. and they are mostly rifle specific[ must be used in the same rifle to keep headspace problems from biting you]

A Begineers Guide to Reloading

Thanks Scot good job.

Found this explanation on OAL. Whole sit is pretty good.

http://www.larrywillis.com/OAL.html

Good thread and read on the 223

http://www.texashuntingforum.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3413767/1

HEY...once the rounds are all loaded.....any of you use any oil or spray to keep them clean and shiny while stored?

no

Chrony Test Record
Cick here to download the Chrony Test Record Sheet

http://www.shootingchrony.com/manual_ChronyTestRecord.htm



HOW TO USE THE CHRONY TEST RECORD
Above is a filled in CHRONY Test Record to show how to record your own tests and how to evaluate them. Below of this page is a CHRONY Test Record which is not filled in. We suggest that this Test Record being used to photocopy as needed, and stored for future use.

To prepare your Test Record follow these steps: Enter your name, the date, your own test reference number, the cartridge and firearm used. Under ‘DATA’ write down the make of the bullet and its weight. If it’s a cast bullet put down the percentage of lead, tin, etc. Write down the cartridge case, the primer used and how much (in grains), the cartridge length and the kind of crimp it has.
Under ‘CONDITIONS’ fill in the time of day, the temperature, the location, the wind direction and speed, plus the elevation.

Now you are ready to do the test shots. Mark the velocity of each shot as you go, starting at the top left corner with shot 1. When finished, pick the HIGHEST VELOCITY and write an H behind it; put an L behind the LOWEST VELOCITY.

Add up all velocities and divide them by the number of rounds; this will give you the AVERAGE VELOCITY. The EXTREME SPREAD is the difference in speed between the HIGH and LOW Velocities. Enter those values. Now that you know the AVERAGE VELOCITY, you can work out the deviation from the average velocity of every shot (write down in space provided). Add up these deviations and then divide this sum by the number of rounds and you will get the AVERAGE DEVIATION.

The ENERGY CALCULATION is again just a matter of following the formula at the bottom of the Test Record. We are also providing space to enter the STANDAR D EVIATION but how to compute it can be found in the CHRONY instruction manual.

Many oils are "penetrating" and will eventually kill the priming compound if you put it on a loaded round. I've reloaded for around 50 years and that has always been a no-no. They shouldn't need anything sprayed on them after they are reloaded, keep them in a cool temperature constant, dry environment and they will last for many years. I still shoot rounds I loaded in the early 70's in the .38 cal and have never had a misfire.

Have ample reloading supplies on hand for ammo shortages.

Used ammo trays such as what 50 round 40 cal. pistol ammo comes in makes good loading blocks.

Tying It All Together: 10 Steps To Precision Handloads

10 steps to Precision

Bullet Concentricity & Related Issues

from another thread I started with general miscellaneous thoughts.


Another thread made me think this might be a helpful thread to start for the more experienced to help share thoughts and tips for others to keep things safe.

Please share whatever general thoughts and wisdom have been learned through time, that are not necessarily obvious from the reloading manuals.

Look at manuals as a rough guide, and make sure to thoroughly understand the warning signs of excessive pressure.

Look for data points in common.

Do not assume that a manual load is "conservative" and leaves room for error. Every rifle is different.

Some rifles will take loads well above the published maximum load very comfortably, and some cannot go anywhere near the maximum load published.

Every barrel and chamber cut is its own animal and has its own unique characteristics.

Each lot of powder, primers, and bullets will have their own unique characteristics.

When buying a new batch of powder, reduce and work back up to find the correct new load.

This variance is one reason a chronograph is so very handy, and a good safety tool.

With a new lot of powder, drop down and work back up to the optimal velocity, then go with that load.

The previously measured average velocity is usually a good indicator of the optimal load when working up a load with a new lot of powder.

Start low, and work back up to the desired velocity.

Having said that, this is why I like to buy larger amounts of powder from the same lot, so I do not have to keep tinkering to maintain accuracy, or worry about the safe range for a load.

Also, all loads will increase pressure (and thus velocity) as ambient temperatures increase, and decrease as ambient temperatures decrease.

So, make sure to keep notes on the temperature when working up loads and checking them on the chronograph.

Also, this information can be plugged into some of the ballistic software and it will account for temperature changes affecting ammo velocity.

Even the Hodgdon "Extreme" powders change with changes in temperatures, just less than some others.

When working up a load in cooler weather, keep it well below max as a safety margin for when the temperatures heat up.

The safest loads are those worked up in the highest temperature that will be encountered.

Back off of that load by at least 0.5 grain to leave some margin for error, or at least a full 1.0 for the really big rounds like the 338 Lapua, RUM's, or Weatherbys.

Ammo sitting in the sun can heat up to dangerous levels if the load was worked right up to the edge of maximum.

One of the commercial load standards that I have heard is that ammo should be safe to 150 degrees as a safety margin to allow for ammo sitting in the sun.

A slower powder and fuller case for the round and bullet weight generally will be less prone to a high pressure spike than a faster burning powder.

For "magnum" rounds, whatever that term means, try to keep the case on the fuller side to avoid pressure spikes.

Also, changes in COAL can change pressure characteristics. A bullet seated farther from the lands can reduce pressure, jammed into the lands increases pressure.

However, seating the bullet deeper into case also can increase pressures. Bullet seating depth is a variable unto itself for pressure considerations.

Only change one variable at a time when working out loads. I generally start with the bullets 0.010" off of the lands as a starting point.

Then, I work on testing powder charge weights. That usually will result in a good working load.

If that does not give a good working load, then, I will take the powder weight that gave the best results, and using it as a constant, test changes in seating depth.

Big case capacity rounds are not the place to download. If the recoil is too much, go to a smaller round. Reduced power rounds are a specialty load unto themselves.

Also, buy and regularly use "check weights" to check scales. The results can be very surprising and a big wake up call. Also, they improve consistency of charge weights, and thus, consistency of the load.

As soon as you see ONE load that shows pressure signs, stop! Do not keep going working above that load.

A reliably safe load that is slower is ALWAYS better than a faster load right on the outer limits. Sooner or later that load right on the edge might reach around and bite back.

Buy a collet type bullet puller. When working up loads, it will be needed for the rounds leftover. There have been at least a few reports of the inertia hammer type pullers causing unintended discharges.

Also, the collet bullet pullers leave the bullet in very good shape and do not dent the tips.

Always wear glasses of some sort when shooting. Anything is better than nothing. Gas will blow back sooner or later, it is a when, not if.

Anyway, just some general random thoughts to hopefully help.

Take a dryer sheet and drop it in your media each time you tumble. Dryer sheet will collect all dust and debris from media. When done remove sheet and throw away. I have been using the same batch of media for about 6 months now and have tumbled approx. 6000 rds and only had to add about 2 cups to keep my tumbler at about 1/2 to under 3/4 full.

Switch to ss media and don't look back.

A set of check weights for your scale is a good investment

Leviathan Armory

I use a 1/2 countersink bit in a drill to remove crimp from military brass.

Look up "Trim It". Never even seen a Giraud but have heard they are high dollar. Trim it is about $100 plus each caliber die of about $20. Can be used with battery power drill motor or a small drill press works great.

I keep track of ammo used in each bolt action rifle. And only do Neck Resizing. Semi-auto rifles require Full Length Resizing
https://www.chuckhawks.com/neck_vs_full_resizing.htm

In cold weather, insert a dryer sheet into the powder bottle on your shotshell press to help insure a better powder drop.

you have answered my ? about priming brass and let sit stored, was wondering if it would deteriorate.

Reloading supplies and components thread. Thanks to GSD331

https://texashuntingforum.com/forum...loading_supplies_and_compone#Post4235924

Single stage press here, just do brass prep in batches. I keep a jug of cases primed for each cal, but no more than 100 ea. Keep track of stages of brass prep - deprime/clean/lube/size/expand/prime/flare. Easy to forget where you were, if you prime last, cases will be ready.

Since we all have such hectic lives these days and have a tendency to get in a hurry and forget what was last done to spent brass ,write down info on a sticky that was preformed and store with brass. The next time you decide to continue you’ll no we’re you’ve left off.