Knew this theory, but I saw it come true with my handloads. FL Sized new .260 brass to book spec. Developed handloads. Reproduced said load for 300 rounds. Shot this load from 10 yards to 1000 yards and got good DOPE for the load/rifle/optic combo. The next time I went to size brass I measured the length to the datum of the shoulder since the brass flowed forward to fit my chamber. I reset my FL bushing die to bump the shoulders back .002" (two thousandths) reloaded the same recipe, same bullet, same powder charge, same primer, same seat depth.

Rifle/load combo made 50-75 more fps!

Shared this with a fellow competitor at a match and he said "oh yea on my .280 I reduce the load by one grain to acheive the same velocity as virgin brass.

FYI

A good thread on:
Setting Up Seating Depth

http://www.texashuntingforum.com/forum/u...pth#Post3312089

Thanks RiverRider

To make sure my beam scale is calibrated still, I use a match king bullet and zero it with that.

I'll take a 77 grain SMK and set my scale for 77 grains and zero it up with that by turning the foot, then adjust it for my powder load after zero without moving the scale.

I do my best to cross-check every load with at least one other manual. I've found start loads in one manual that listed as over max in another manual for the exact same powder and bullet weight. Also, it should be common knowledge, but never have more than one can of powder on the bench at one time. I ruined a 1\2 can of H4895 when I accidentally dumped a near-full powder measure of AA-2520 into it...

Hornady:
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Our new and improved calculator includes both basic and advanced features, allowing you to customize the shooting conditions to replicate your environment. Choose standard or metric, and enter the appropriate data to view your favorite load


Ballistics Calculator

Instructions

Our new and improved calculator includes both basic and advanced features, allowing you to customize the shooting conditions to replicate your environment. Choose standard or metric, and enter the appropriate data to view your favorite load.

Standard values are provided in the sight height based on the firearm type, but may be changed to match your setup. Default values are entered in the temperature and pressure spaces but can be changed. Once calculated, we offer a printable "cheat sheet" to tape to your firearm for quick reference.

http://www.hornady.com/ballistics-resource/ballistics-calculator?utm_campaign=TH-Ballistics%20Calculator%20Announcement&utm_medium=email&utm_source=newsletter&utm_content=GO%20TO%20THE%20CALCULATOR%20%3E

One powder at a time, visually inspect every powder charge and establish some rule for weighing the charge (every 5th etc.). The tighter your control over the process the more uniform your loads will be.

if you use them on bottleneck cartridges, just remember to double check that they will feed into your rifle before you go hunting. and they are mostly rifle specific[ must be used in the same rifle to keep headspace problems from biting you]

A Begineers Guide to Reloading

Thanks Scot good job.

Found this explanation on OAL. Whole sit is pretty good.

http://www.larrywillis.com/OAL.html

Good thread and read on the 223

http://www.texashuntingforum.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3413767/1

HEY...once the rounds are all loaded.....any of you use any oil or spray to keep them clean and shiny while stored?

no

Chrony Test Record
Cick here to download the Chrony Test Record Sheet

http://www.shootingchrony.com/manual_ChronyTestRecord.htm



HOW TO USE THE CHRONY TEST RECORD
Above is a filled in CHRONY Test Record to show how to record your own tests and how to evaluate them. Below of this page is a CHRONY Test Record which is not filled in. We suggest that this Test Record being used to photocopy as needed, and stored for future use.

To prepare your Test Record follow these steps: Enter your name, the date, your own test reference number, the cartridge and firearm used. Under ‘DATA’ write down the make of the bullet and its weight. If it’s a cast bullet put down the percentage of lead, tin, etc. Write down the cartridge case, the primer used and how much (in grains), the cartridge length and the kind of crimp it has.
Under ‘CONDITIONS’ fill in the time of day, the temperature, the location, the wind direction and speed, plus the elevation.

Now you are ready to do the test shots. Mark the velocity of each shot as you go, starting at the top left corner with shot 1. When finished, pick the HIGHEST VELOCITY and write an H behind it; put an L behind the LOWEST VELOCITY.

Add up all velocities and divide them by the number of rounds; this will give you the AVERAGE VELOCITY. The EXTREME SPREAD is the difference in speed between the HIGH and LOW Velocities. Enter those values. Now that you know the AVERAGE VELOCITY, you can work out the deviation from the average velocity of every shot (write down in space provided). Add up these deviations and then divide this sum by the number of rounds and you will get the AVERAGE DEVIATION.

The ENERGY CALCULATION is again just a matter of following the formula at the bottom of the Test Record. We are also providing space to enter the STANDAR D EVIATION but how to compute it can be found in the CHRONY instruction manual.

Many oils are "penetrating" and will eventually kill the priming compound if you put it on a loaded round. I've reloaded for around 50 years and that has always been a no-no. They shouldn't need anything sprayed on them after they are reloaded, keep them in a cool temperature constant, dry environment and they will last for many years. I still shoot rounds I loaded in the early 70's in the .38 cal and have never had a misfire.

Have ample reloading supplies on hand for ammo shortages.

Used ammo trays such as what 50 round 40 cal. pistol ammo comes in makes good loading blocks.

Tying It All Together: 10 Steps To Precision Handloads

10 steps to Precision

Bullet Concentricity & Related Issues

from another thread I started with general miscellaneous thoughts.


Another thread made me think this might be a helpful thread to start for the more experienced to help share thoughts and tips for others to keep things safe.

Please share whatever general thoughts and wisdom have been learned through time, that are not necessarily obvious from the reloading manuals.

Look at manuals as a rough guide, and make sure to thoroughly understand the warning signs of excessive pressure.

Look for data points in common.

Do not assume that a manual load is "conservative" and leaves room for error. Every rifle is different.

Some rifles will take loads well above the published maximum load very comfortably, and some cannot go anywhere near the maximum load published.

Every barrel and chamber cut is its own animal and has its own unique characteristics.

Each lot of powder, primers, and bullets will have their own unique characteristics.

When buying a new batch of powder, reduce and work back up to find the correct new load.

This variance is one reason a chronograph is so very handy, and a good safety tool.

With a new lot of powder, drop down and work back up to the optimal velocity, then go with that load.

The previously measured average velocity is usually a good indicator of the optimal load when working up a load with a new lot of powder.

Start low, and work back up to the desired velocity.

Having said that, this is why I like to buy larger amounts of powder from the same lot, so I do not have to keep tinkering to maintain accuracy, or worry about the safe range for a load.

Also, all loads will increase pressure (and thus velocity) as ambient temperatures increase, and decrease as ambient temperatures decrease.

So, make sure to keep notes on the temperature when working up loads and checking them on the chronograph.

Also, this information can be plugged into some of the ballistic software and it will account for temperature changes affecting ammo velocity.

Even the Hodgdon "Extreme" powders change with changes in temperatures, just less than some others.

When working up a load in cooler weather, keep it well below max as a safety margin for when the temperatures heat up.

The safest loads are those worked up in the highest temperature that will be encountered.

Back off of that load by at least 0.5 grain to leave some margin for error, or at least a full 1.0 for the really big rounds like the 338 Lapua, RUM's, or Weatherbys.

Ammo sitting in the sun can heat up to dangerous levels if the load was worked right up to the edge of maximum.

One of the commercial load standards that I have heard is that ammo should be safe to 150 degrees as a safety margin to allow for ammo sitting in the sun.

A slower powder and fuller case for the round and bullet weight generally will be less prone to a high pressure spike than a faster burning powder.

For "magnum" rounds, whatever that term means, try to keep the case on the fuller side to avoid pressure spikes.

Also, changes in COAL can change pressure characteristics. A bullet seated farther from the lands can reduce pressure, jammed into the lands increases pressure.

However, seating the bullet deeper into case also can increase pressures. Bullet seating depth is a variable unto itself for pressure considerations.

Only change one variable at a time when working out loads. I generally start with the bullets 0.010" off of the lands as a starting point.

Then, I work on testing powder charge weights. That usually will result in a good working load.

If that does not give a good working load, then, I will take the powder weight that gave the best results, and using it as a constant, test changes in seating depth.

Big case capacity rounds are not the place to download. If the recoil is too much, go to a smaller round. Reduced power rounds are a specialty load unto themselves.

Also, buy and regularly use "check weights" to check scales. The results can be very surprising and a big wake up call. Also, they improve consistency of charge weights, and thus, consistency of the load.

As soon as you see ONE load that shows pressure signs, stop! Do not keep going working above that load.

A reliably safe load that is slower is ALWAYS better than a faster load right on the outer limits. Sooner or later that load right on the edge might reach around and bite back.

Buy a collet type bullet puller. When working up loads, it will be needed for the rounds leftover. There have been at least a few reports of the inertia hammer type pullers causing unintended discharges.

Also, the collet bullet pullers leave the bullet in very good shape and do not dent the tips.

Always wear glasses of some sort when shooting. Anything is better than nothing. Gas will blow back sooner or later, it is a when, not if.

Anyway, just some general random thoughts to hopefully help.

Take a dryer sheet and drop it in your media each time you tumble. Dryer sheet will collect all dust and debris from media. When done remove sheet and throw away. I have been using the same batch of media for about 6 months now and have tumbled approx. 6000 rds and only had to add about 2 cups to keep my tumbler at about 1/2 to under 3/4 full.

Switch to ss media and don't look back.

A set of check weights for your scale is a good investment

Leviathan Armory

I use a 1/2 countersink bit in a drill to remove crimp from military brass.