I have had an easier time sizing when I chuck up a bronze brush in a drill & polish the burnt carbon from inside of the fired case necks a little before lubing and sizing.

I used to have a lot more resistance when the expander ball came out of the neck, now they seem to be a lot easier and don't stretch when sizing. I also polish the expander ball, which helps, too.

I only load one caliber at a time. It may take me a couple days to do finish, but I take my time and make sure everything is exact. I'm NEVER in a hurry. So, if I know I can't get them finished in 2 consecutive days I'll wait till I can.

I use the label that comes w/ the dies as my reference chart and ususally only write the "pet load" on that label. I also write on the label the OAL, primer, powder and OAL case length and bullet used. I use RCBS dies mainly w/ a single stage Redding press.

I never run dirty brass thru my dies. I always tumble first. Unless, the brass was new and was only fired once. I see no need to tumble every time. Espically once fired brass. The shine normally goes dull after handling them thru the preping sequence or over time from being handled in the field. Just because it isn't bright doesn't mean it isn't clean.

I use Redding Wax or Lee case lube. I use as little as possible and wipe off the brass before the next prep step. I always put a small dap of lube on the inside of the neck also. I can usually get 3 unlube brass run thru the die till I need to lube again. It depends on if I'm FLS (full length sizing) or NS (neck sizing) the brass.

I then make sure each one of the brass fit in the action of the gun. If there is one tight one it is run thru the resizing die till it fits correctly or it is crimped shut w/ pliers and thrown away.

I then run a copper brush thru the neck, debur the primer pockets (only w/ new brass and only one time is needed thru the life of the brass) and then clean the primer pockets. I then only use a Lee case length guage and cutter to trim the brass to length. I've never used any other case trimmer that is as precise as this one. It takes longer, but it is well worth it to me. Then chamfer the outside first and then the inside.

I never trim the necks since I'm not needing precise neck tension. I'm a hunter and am wanting to get as much life out of the brass as I can. The only time this is beneficial is for match shooters IMO.

I then use a RCBS hand primer and prime all of the brass at the same time.

I may then wait till the next day to load the powder (usually don't have enough time to do it all in one day). I'll cover the brass w/ a clean towel for the next day.

I only use a digital scale for measuring powder and go to the exact weight everytime. Never used a powder thrower and feel that my time is worth more than hoping the powder is the same. I know it is w/ the scale. I then seat the bullet. I will take a measurement of the OAL and make sure it is exact. I take measurements after every 5 finished rounds. I usually store them in plastic shell cases, but do have some cardboard boxes that haven't fallen apart yet.

The most important thing about reloading is consistancy to me. If you're not taking your time the end result will show at the range. You may think it is the wind or something else, but it could be because you're off on the bullet depth seating or a couple tenth of a grain more or less of powder.

Follow the published recipes to the "T"

http://www.texashuntingforum.com/forum/u...ion#Post1245373

I should've wrote in my post that I wash my hands just before handling the primers. I use to use latex gloves, but laxed from this step to just making sure my hands are free from oils from the case lube. I try not to handle them, but every once in awhile one flips over in the (RCBS hand primer) tray.

If you resize .30-06 brass to 8x57 Mauser, try using a bandsaw to trim about 1\4" off of the necks and deburr the cases before running them through the sizer. this saves a LOT of trimming afterward plus, it makes sizing much easier. I made a wood fixture that holds 10 cases at a time and used my rip fence on the saw to speed up the process, but my fixture got left out in the rain (long story) and warped so bad I had to scrap it. I'm good on 8x57 cases for now, so I haven't replaced it yet, when I do, I'll post pics and specs.

Never stop mid process for a distraction. Not to visit with neighbor, take out trash, or anything. It's too easy to loose track of what you were doing. Finish what you start.

If loading multiple pistol rounds on a single stage press, deprime all your brass in a single shot, take a lee auto prime in the house with your brass; in the air-conditioning reprime all your brass in comfort. If you feel o.k. doing it, I also use a 50 rnd. loading tray and my Little Dandy to drop powder on all my single stage stuff immediatley following priming, then return to my bench to seat bullets and crimp rounds.

If you have multiple handguns in the same caliber, invest in a Lee Factory Crimp, guaranteed to chamber in any handgun you run. Best money I've spent so far! seriously

Use a dryer sheet (Bounce works) wrap around powder container on your powder measurer. I use tape or usually ribberband to hold inplace.

dryer sheet for what may i ask

dryer sheets keep the static electricity down and help to prevent the powder from sticking to the inside walls of the powder tube.

Twist requirements to Stabilize bullets

I put a small mark on the neck and shoulder of each case. As I run the cases thru the different stages, I line up the mark facing the same way. This way, if there is any slight misalignment, all the cases are the same. I load them in the rifle with the mark facing up.

I have a Ruger target rifle in 223 and a T/C Contender w/14" barrel in 223. Different loads & powder of coures. I use regular brass for the Ruger and nickle plated brass for the T/C to keep them seperated during loading and shooting.
At the range I always lable my targets with the load I am trying: firearm, powder type, grains & primer. When I get home with the targets I put this info into a log. Always keep a log.

Always clean your firearm ASAP. I run a patch through the bore soaked in solvent at the range before I leave.

I hadn't heard of the Lee collet dies. That would vastly speed up the process. Is there any downside to them?

I am not new to reloading I just haven't done any for 13 years. My question is in that time have powders changed? I need to start reloading again and wonder which powder would be best for .357 and .45 long colt

Terry,
Welcome to THF
Powders manufactured test and try to maintain a constant standard. The variations from lot to lot is held to very close tolerances in burn rates. Lot of the loading manual have been lawyerized and charge reduced to protect manufacturers. Also there have been several newer powders added with better stability to heat.

For the .357 and .45 Colt loads you can get the latest from the powder manufacturer table by going to the links listed above.

New to Reloading, want to get started, here are some good tips and video that should help.


Accurate Reloading



Misc Reloading

I like to polish my brass with steel wool while I have it chucked on my drill, gets it shiny without much work

What do you use to chuck it in the drill without damaging the brass?

I use an unprimed case for my powder trickler, fill it 3/4 full of powder, tilt slighty and roll between fingers. Great inexpensive way to trickle powder onto scale one granule at a time.

Lee makes a stud and shell holder for your drill

That's exactly what I use, cheap and effective

After about four reloads on my mag pistol cases I put them in a metal 2 gallon bucket filled with lime and put them in the oven @ 350 for 45 min, then turn the oven off and let them cool down. Take the bucket to my shop and let it set over nignt, next day dump it out and separate the brass from the lime and clean. This anneals(sp) the necks and stops them from splitting.

I'm new to reloading, and I'd just like to say thanks to you guys for all the advice, tips, and info on the subject. I look forward to being able to contribute in the future, but in the mean time, I'll probably be posting some more questions. Thanks, Gary

Link to Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers' Institute (SAAMI). Good link with useful ingormation for standardized cartridges.

http://www.saami.org/

As always use caution when working up loads especially near the Do Not Exceed loads. This especially holds true when working up loads in cold weather, some components are more trmperature sensitive than others, and a load that is safe in Winter might be over pressure in the Summer.