If you're not used to mils and folks you're around don't talk mils...don't do it. That's my opinion.

Example (and contrary to what anyone here will tell you this is how people not in "the game" or "non-operators" talk) - You missed 4.5" to the right or 6" high...think how fast you need to know that and how much "math" you have to do in your head to make that correction in mils.

In short, it's pretty much putting an American in a metric system at the blink of an eye you don't know the answers. We talk quarters not tenths....'Merica!

There are places for mil and that is, when you are in places where people talk and use mils.

If you're not used to mils and folks you're around don't talk mils...don't do it. That's my opinion.

Example (and contrary to what anyone here will tell you this is how people not in "the game" or "non-operators" talk) - You missed 4.5" to the right or 6" high...think how fast you need to know that and how much "math" you have to do in your head to make that correction in mils.

In short, it's pretty much putting an American in a metric system at the blink of an eye you don't know the answers. We talk quarters not tenths....'Merica!

There are places for mil and that is, when you are in places where people talk and use mils.

This will be for a Ruger American Go Wild 7mm PRC

The only thing I don't know much about is the MRAD adjustments. I do like second focal plane best. This seems like a bargain with the 16% discount they have. I guess once I get it sight in dead on at 200 it will be okay. I heard 1 click is .37 inches... a little more than .25 inches. Basically 3 clicks is 1.21 inches I guess. Give me your thoughts please.

https://www.sportoptics.com/meopta-meosport-r-3-15x50-rd-1047491.html

Well said.

100% Agree.

Forget inches. They have no part here.

Zeroing a rifle.

Shoot at paper at 100 yards. You see your bullet hole is .8 Mil high and .4 Mil right.

Dial the elevation knob down .8
Dial the windage knob .4 Mil left

Shoot again.

I just looked at the reticle. They are hamstringing anyone trying to use that scope.

As I've said before, it seems some optic makers do not have any shooters working there.

That is not really a Mil reticle.

I'll figure a way to make it work. I'm a hold over guy anyway. Not a dialer except on zeroing a scope.

That is my point. Those dumbasses made a reticle you can't do much hold over with. That scope you HAVE to dial.

That is my point. Those dumbasses made a reticle you can't do much hold over with. That scope you HAVE to dial.

Tunnel vision.

i have FFP athlon. Decent glass, but reticle is too thick at top power.

Dials well

Wrong. He can be successful without dialing for what he will use it for. Wouldn't be my choice for a scope but my opinion doesn't change the price of eggs, neither does yours.

Tunnel vision.

@ J.G.

Saw above. He doesn't HAVE to dial.

See Below, my response to him earlier.
"If you're deer hunting with this set up:

Zero it for impact at 100, or 200 yards, whatever you're most confident in.
Shoot it at 300 & 400 yards, 3 shots each range, or until you're confident.
Record your drop on painters tape, place on the grip right behind action
Cover in clear tape
Hunt

You know the size of your target, from top line of back to bottom of belly, Y from ear to shoulder...........If you're shooting Hornady Precision Hunter 175 gr, you're looking at holding about 6" (200 yard zero) above your desired point of impact. For the price of one box of ammo you'll be ready.

It's not how I do it, but most hunters that practice with their set up do it this way with success."

I'd estimate that ethical shots on game made without dialing are 100x or more than shots that are dialed.