Pictures are of a Browning A5 12 ga. Shotgun. I purchased this gun from a member knowing it would be a project. As explained to me this gun sat in a safe for 20 years before I purchased it.
Problem is I can't get the tang screw out to take the stock off. I took it to a reputable gunsmith locally, and he spent 3 hours trying to get the screw to move.
He used heat, impact screw driver even made a special tip to get a better bite on the tang screw. All it did was bend the driver tip. I know the small screw next to it has to be removed to get the tang screw out.
Any suggestions would be appreciated, or if someone skilled in this issue would like to take a go at it, I can get the gun to you.

Thanks

Not something I would attempt myself, but I wonder if someone skilled with a drill press could drill right down the center of it without messing up the stock. Then just replace the screw

Drill it or weld it sounds like where you’re at.

I know what I would do.

TIG weld a hex nut to that infernal flat head screw, impact it out, and then throw the screw as hard as I could into the scrap trailer.

try a manual hand impact style driver(https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...p;_nkw=manual+impact+driver&_sacat=0 )after a long soak in penetrating oil(https://oards.com/best-penetrating-oils-for-rusted-bolts/)

Sounds like your at the time to get nasty part

But first, drop some penetrating oil on it little by little for a few days, if that don't work...game on

If it cause the stock to get too messed up, buy a replacement...is what it is sometimes

Just a guess but I'm thinking there's a reason behind those two screws (#69) and the one next to it being so close together. Perhaps one must be removed before the other. The diagram appears to show the neither of these two screws mate with anything so perhaps one is only used to secure the other. It would be kind of like when one bolt is tightened against another to secure them both.

Again, just a guess but if my reasoning is correct, it's the smaller screw that must be removed first.

I know you probably did this, but did you try tightening it first?

You can't get to the threaded end of the screw/bolt to put any penerating oil on it.

And yes, the little screw is removed (set screw) to try and get the tang screw out.

Who has a TIG Welder that is versed in this issue?

I've had good success using a creative and safe combination of hot and cold before getting out the heavy artillery.

Take a wet wash cloth and put it in the microwave to get it hot.

Wrap the hot rag around the tang for a minute or two to get both wood and metal is expand slightly. You might even do this twice to get more heat and expansion. I'm not talking about so much heat the wood will swell but just enough to create expansion for the next step.

Take the corner of a cube of ice and apply it to the screw for a few seconds to get it alone to cool quickly, then see if it will break loose. Some have used the refrigerant in canned air to achieve the same purpose but ice is more simple and safe IMO.

Note the thread depth of #69. You're not getting any oil that deep. I bet there some type of thread locker on the threads.

JG's suggestion is best.

Yep, need someone to TIG weld a bolt to the screw, any takers?

So the smaller screw came out but the bigger one, with all the marks on it, is still stuck? Last time I had a similar problem, but not a fine firearm and a few marks were OK, I used my dremel to make a bigger and deeper slot for a larger screw driver.

Yes the little one comes out before the big can. Gunsmith did make a larger driver bit and modified the slot to get a better bite on the screw.

I was looking in the toolbox and came up with this monstrosity lol. Can put 100+ pounds of torque on it. Have no clue if it would work, but if you want to bring it over when you come pick up your signs we can definitely try it out.

Kyle, I'll try anything at this point.
Thanks,

I think a TIG Welder and a very hard bolt welded to the screw is the answer.

How good are you drilling holes with the Dremel? Do you have access to some liquid nitrogen?
A small hole drilled thru most of the screw, drip some LN2 into the hole, and any rust or threadlocker will release. Used to remove a lot of bolts from old equipment that way.

Have you tried what Hetman suggested? I've used one on several occasions (including a stuck choke tube) to remove stubborn fasteners. You might also put a soldering iron on it for a while to see if that will transmit enough heat to make a difference.

Not yet.

I believe the slots on a lot of the Browning screws are a lot narrower than normal. I had to buy special bits to fit into the slots when I worked on an A5 I had. You may need those to go with the impact driver idea.

You should. Get the one Klein makes. The downward blow of the hammer keeps it from slipping and turns counterclockwise a bit with each thump. I got one for work and it worked so good I bought myself one. https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-70220-Reversible-Impact/dp/B000936R6E
Made right here in America.

How does the gun shoot ?

All this work for a screw , it’d have to be a fine shooting shotgun…

I can.

What's the diameter of that screw head?

Reading is hard.