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next years build
#6026815
11/13/15 04:32 AM
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 443
eddie4529
OP
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OP
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 443 |
Planning on building a 6.5creedmoor bolt action setup next year any ideas on rifle manufacturers to look at rifle budget 1000 optics will have a separate budget
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6026856
11/13/15 05:21 AM
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,206
Korean Redneck
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I hate to be the one who says it but if by "built" u mean something semi custom with like an aftermarket barrel, then your budget just not make it as far as you think. I'm a beginner to longer distance shooting with a semi custom bolt rifle and here's what I concluded
Scenario 1: tikka It will get u best rifle set up by merely switching out the barrel. At best I would think if u find even a used tikka at $500 then you're doing really well. FYI a bunch of folks on this forum like tikka as build base because it has a great factory trigger and action. After that even the most budget friendly barrel is about $200, something like a Shilen, or more for higher quality barrels. If u find a gunsmith to chamber and install a barrel for $250 then I think you're doing pretty well. Now u have a great action with a good barrel and a subpar factory stock. Not to mention taxes and shipping and any other hidden fees.
Scenario 2: savage Get u the cheapest savage u can find with an accutrigger, probably even around $400 if u look hard enough. A decent stock with a full aluminum bed for about $200. Shilen sells a pre-chambered and threaded barrel for savages for $400. A savage barrel switch is very easy for a gunsmith. U may even be able to sweet talk someone on this forum to do it for u. This option gives u a better stock but not as good of an action as compared to option 1.
IMHO don't even go down the Remington 700 path if your serious about a $1k budget.
I basically have option 2 with a slightly higher starting budget In a 308. If I had to do it all over again, I'd go option 1 and save up for a stock in the future. Although finding a donor tikka at $500 is getting harder and harder everyday. Just my 2 cents. Good luck.
Last edited by Korean Redneck; 11/13/15 05:28 AM.
I'm a dude who likes long barrels!
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6026866
11/13/15 05:39 AM
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 22,716
BigPig
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Just what KR said. Savage is a good start. Your budget will greatly limit you
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6026869
11/13/15 05:49 AM
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 443
eddie4529
OP
Bird Dog
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OP
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 443 |
I mean 1k for the rifle as it is aside from what ill be adding such as barrels stocks and optics
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6026876
11/13/15 05:59 AM
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 443
eddie4529
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Bird Dog
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OP
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Posts: 443 |
rem 700 was actually what i was thinking
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6026894
11/13/15 06:59 AM
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Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 728
TxHunter80
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You can buy a stainless 700 action for around $400. I have started there a couple times. There is no need to buy a complete rifle if you will butcher it for a build.
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6026961
11/13/15 12:20 PM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,219
dee
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Best deal for a 700 is used or when academy or Wal-Mart run the adl on sale which is usually around 370.
"A vote is like a rifle; it's usefulness depends on the character of the user" Theodore Roosevelt
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6027023
11/13/15 12:59 PM
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,777
P_102
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When you say "build", what are you trying to accomplish...hunting gun, long range target gun? I bought a cheap Rem. 700 ADL, put a timney trigger in it, new stock and had a local 'smith' do his 'accurizing' package, (true the action, lap the barrel, etc.) and ended up with a 1/2 inch shooter (the gun, not me)....total cost just about $1000. Have invested more since then but nothing to do with accuracy....So, what is your goal with this build?
You might want to look into Rem's new offering (788?), very inexpensive but supposedly very accurate. Best part is they added a Savage type barrel nut.
P_102
Last edited by P_102; 11/13/15 01:18 PM.
Do not trifle in the affairs of dragons, for thou art crunchy and taste good with ketchup.
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6027037
11/13/15 01:08 PM
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 443
eddie4529
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Bird Dog
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Posts: 443 |
Accuracy, gonna be getting into longer range shooting this upcoming year
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6027070
11/13/15 01:25 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 672
glb1955
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You might think about using a Tikka action. I should be getting mine back from Horizon here in the next couple of weeks. Saw it yesterday and they are doing a great job. Bought the rifle on GB, had it sent to Horizon and they took care of the rest. g
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6027077
11/13/15 01:29 PM
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,777
P_102
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2 other things to keep in mind.....Chad and JG Fireman, best money you will ever spend.
P_102
Do not trifle in the affairs of dragons, for thou art crunchy and taste good with ketchup.
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6027102
11/13/15 01:48 PM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,499
charlesb
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I hate to think about spending all of that money - and winding up with a Remington.
But - as long as it's not my money, and it's not me that winds up with a Remington, I guess that is the main thing.
Kind regards, charlesb
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Re: next years build
[Re: P_102]
#6027103
11/13/15 01:48 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 41,206
J.G.
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Thank you Chris.
OP, go Tikka.
Right out of the box it will shoot very tight with the right hand load. It is the smothest cycling hardest ejecting mass produced action on the market IMO. I've had many Savages and I am done with them. The Tikka's stock, while not extremely stiff will still keep the barrel free floated, even on a bipod. You do not have to have a heavy barrel for a rifle to shoot tight. The heavy barrel is for high round count in a short time. The thin barrel will shoot just as well, but for less rounds in a short time. So you may need to pause to allow it to cool. I've worked up loads for Tikka 243, Tikka 7mm-08, and now Tikka .300 Win Mag, all unmodified rifles, and all shot less than 1 MOA.
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6027158
11/13/15 02:16 PM
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 443
eddie4529
OP
Bird Dog
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Posts: 443 |
Thanks ill look at some tikkas, that was my intention on the post finding other options, i had already ruled out the savage all together dont like them too much the one i have doesnt shoot too well compared to my ruger american where i can get 1moa and its a cheap rifle
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6027208
11/13/15 02:40 PM
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,206
Korean Redneck
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When it comes to 700 vs tikka, the value is just always with the tikka.
Regardless of what anyone says, you have to do something with a 700 trigger; at the very least a tune up from a gunsmith u can trust for $50 all the way up to a $220 jewel trigger. Even little things like the bolt release. People pay money, I being one of them, to have a side bolt release on a 700 when it's the standard for tikka.
Yes there are more options with 700 in terms of aftermarket parts, but then again the tikka aftermarket parts selection only seems to be growing exponentially. After my built savage 308 and 700 that been modified, my next rifle (the one eventually plan on going full out and getting a chassis and higher end barrel) will most definitely be a tikka.
I'm a dude who likes long barrels!
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6027263
11/13/15 02:57 PM
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 868
Txhillbilly
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If you want to build it yourself then go with a Savage. No gunsmith is required, and depending on the components used, it will shoot with the best of them. Tikka and Browning have the smoothest actions out of the box hands down, a Savage action is rough when new but will smooth out in a short amount of time after being worked, but will never be as smooth as the Tikka or Browning action.
I build all my rifles off Savage actions,and all of them shoot extremely good.
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6027307
11/13/15 03:13 PM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 35,138
Brother in-law
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Tikka ctr , only problem is they aren't in 6.5 creed unless they added it
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6027352
11/13/15 03:32 PM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,499
charlesb
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I've had good luck with Savages, the only real drawback I see with them is the ejection never seems to be what I expect. If you cycle the bolt properly they eject just fine, but I'm one of those Ya-hoos who likes to open the bolt slowly at the bench and catch the empty. When I try that with my Savage, the brass winds up back in the action again, as often as not.
Other than that though, the Savages are outstanding. Easy to work on, and the ones I've tried have been quite accurate. A Savage is definitely the way to go if you like to experiment with different cartridges and barrel types without having to buy an entire new gun every time. On my second try at swapping and headspacing barrels on a Savage, it all happened in less than twenty minutes. - My first try took almost twice as long, because it was my first time and I was triple-checking every step as I went along.
I am totally ignorant about Tikkas, have never even picked one up and looked at it.
Lately I've been quite impressed with the Howa or Weatherby Vanguard. These are not the best thing if you are planning on switching barrels though, because some 'gunsmiths' are too stupid to set up a lathe for metric threads - so they diss the Howa action, one of the best push-feed actions on the market when the real problem is a rather unprofessional laziness and ignorance on their part.
With a competent gunsmith though, a Howa has a lot to offer, including the strongest recoil lug arrangement that I have ever seen. (It's got an actual buttress.) The Howa action is a bit heavy compared to most others, but there's a good reason for that. They are massively strong with a nice flat bottom that will not try to squirm around so much under recoil and torque.
I've heard a lot of good about the Tikkas though and if the guys who know their stuff recommend a Tikka, then you are not going to go wrong with one of those, I would bet.
The main thing is that when the time comes, you remember to post a few pictures here, for us.
Last edited by charlesb; 11/13/15 03:41 PM.
Kind regards, charlesb
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Re: next years build
[Re: charlesb]
#6027427
11/13/15 04:04 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 41,206
J.G.
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The Savage will eventually fail to eject no matter how hard you run the bolt back. I've replaced about 4 ejector springs in two Savages. After the roll pin is driven out I had to grab the ejector with needle nose plies and pull it out. Then had to hook the ejector spring with a pick and pull it out. An ejector spring should shoot out of the bolt once the roll pin is driven out and punch removed. Nope, Savage puts an ejector spring that is too small, and aparently the wrong type of steel. Call Savage for a new spring and they won't send you one unless you are a gunsmith. They can suck it!
800 Yard Steel Range Precision Rifle Instruction Memberships and Classes Available
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6027433
11/13/15 04:09 PM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 39,568
redchevy
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I bet most any of the big names discussed would produce a more than adequate rifle. Doubt accuracy would be the defining factor for any of them.
It's hell eatin em live
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Re: next years build
[Re: J.G.]
#6027464
11/13/15 04:24 PM
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 868
Txhillbilly
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The Savage will eventually fail to eject no matter how hard you run the bolt back. I've replaced about 4 ejector springs in two Savages. After the roll pin is driven out I had to grab the ejector with needle nose plies and pull it out. Then had to hook the ejector spring with a pick and pull it out. An ejector spring should shoot out of the bolt once the roll pin is driven out and punch removed. Nope, Savage puts an ejector spring that is too small, and aparently the wrong type of steel. Call Savage for a new spring and they won't send you one unless you are a gunsmith. They can suck it! Sorry to hear you had bad luck with 2 Savage rifles ejector springs. I've got 7 rifles with Savage actions and have never collapsed an ejector spring on any bolt head. There are several places that you can buy replacement parts from if Savage won't sell them, and numerous places that make and sell springs in heavier compression weights.
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Re: next years build
[Re: J.G.]
#6027499
11/13/15 04:45 PM
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,200
dawaba
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The Savage will eventually fail to eject no matter how hard you run the bolt back. I've replaced about 4 ejector springs in two Savages. After the roll pin is driven out I had to grab the ejector with needle nose plies and pull it out. Then had to hook the ejector spring with a pick and pull it out. An ejector spring should shoot out of the bolt once the roll pin is driven out and punch removed. Nope, Savage puts an ejector spring that is too small, and aparently the wrong type of steel. Call Savage for a new spring and they won't send you one unless you are a gunsmith. They can suck it! I lost the tiny extractor piece about 25 years ago on the only Savage bolt gun I've ever owned. Savage did send me a new extractor (gratis) and it was easy to install, but this was many years back. The extractor was held in place by a little spring and detent ball. The way the extractor and ejector are fixed to the bolt face is rinky-dink, even for a rifle whose hallmark is cutting corners to save a buck. FWIW, I've always been suspicious of the extractors on Remington 700s too. They also look rinky-dink to me, but they seem to hold up just fine. If I want to save money on a rifle, I'll go the Howa route, or perhaps the Ruger American.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple.....and wrong." H. L. Mencken
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Re: next years build
[Re: Txhillbilly]
#6027514
11/13/15 04:53 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 41,206
J.G.
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The Savage will eventually fail to eject no matter how hard you run the bolt back. I've replaced about 4 ejector springs in two Savages. After the roll pin is driven out I had to grab the ejector with needle nose plies and pull it out. Then had to hook the ejector spring with a pick and pull it out. An ejector spring should shoot out of the bolt once the roll pin is driven out and punch removed. Nope, Savage puts an ejector spring that is too small, and aparently the wrong type of steel. Call Savage for a new spring and they won't send you one unless you are a gunsmith. They can suck it! Sorry to hear you had bad luck with 2 Savage rifles ejector springs. I've got 7 rifles with Savage actions and have never collapsed an ejector spring on any bolt head. There are several places that you can buy replacement parts from if Savage won't sell them, and numerous places that make and sell springs in heavier compression weights. Yeah, every other aftetmarket supplier I could find were all sold out. I wonder why? One bolt had 2700 rounds on it. The one I still have has 3000 on it and currently is on its' third ejector spring which is also worn out. As a comparison, one Tikka action I have has 1000 rounds on it and still ejects like it did when it was brand new. The other Tikka has 700 rounds on it and still ejects like it was brand new.
Last edited by FiremanJG; 11/13/15 04:56 PM.
800 Yard Steel Range Precision Rifle Instruction Memberships and Classes Available
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Re: next years build
[Re: dawaba]
#6027528
11/13/15 04:59 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 41,206
J.G.
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The Savage will eventually fail to eject no matter how hard you run the bolt back. I've replaced about 4 ejector springs in two Savages. After the roll pin is driven out I had to grab the ejector with needle nose plies and pull it out. Then had to hook the ejector spring with a pick and pull it out. An ejector spring should shoot out of the bolt once the roll pin is driven out and punch removed. Nope, Savage puts an ejector spring that is too small, and aparently the wrong type of steel. Call Savage for a new spring and they won't send you one unless you are a gunsmith. They can suck it! I lost the tiny extractor piece about 25 years ago on the only Savage bolt gun I've ever owned. Savage did send me a new extractor (gratis) and it was easy to install, but this was many years back. The extractor was held in place by a little spring and detent ball. The way the extractor and ejector are fixed to the bolt face is rinky-dink, even for a rifle whose hallmark is cutting corners to save a buck. FWIW, I've always been suspicious of the extractors on Remington 700s too. They also look rinky-dink to me, but they seem to hold up just fine. If I want to save money on a rifle, I'll go the Howa route, or perhaps the Ruger American. It is still the same design. And I've also been sceptical of it. I've also had and seen plenty of Savages that are difficult to get into battery. The bolt ends up getting double stroked to get a round in the chamber, common occurance. I've also had the same attitude toward a Rem 700 extractor, but they seem to hold up. Tikka is a robust hinged extractor. A far better design over Savage and Remington.
800 Yard Steel Range Precision Rifle Instruction Memberships and Classes Available
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Re: next years build
[Re: eddie4529]
#6027609
11/13/15 05:50 PM
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 868
Txhillbilly
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I do agree with you on the Sako (Tikka) being a better action, the Europeans have always put quality before quantity in everything they build. I started playing with Savage rifles in the 90's because I shoot LH most of the time and prefer LH actions. Before that the Winchester model 70 was my choice, it just cost me a lot more because of the need of a gunsmith for barrel swaps. I've never been a fan of Remington, but if I find a cheap used LH I might try one with a Criterion barrel/barrel nut.
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