How to keep scope from moving in rings

I think my scope has moved in the rings about 3/16" since I mounted it 200-300 rounds ago. BUT, if it has moved it has moved back toward me. I would think scopes would move forward under recoil -- is that always true?

After the season, I want to move it forward because it's a .300WM and I'm always flirting with scope wounds. What's a good way to ensure it doesn't move? Locktite on the body, double sided tape?

what rings are you using? i shoot a 300 win mag with mark 4 rings on my vortex never had any issues.. i torque it to specs

Leupold one-piece mount and Leupold rings. I didn't have a torque wrench for the hex head bolts, so just tightened "very tight". It may NOT have moved, but I seem to recall putting the scope as far forward in the rings and it would go, and now it isn't that far forward -- but, it's been 2 or 3 years, so I could be wrong about that.

some dont like locktite but i use it on my base screws and ring screws. i use the blue locktite not the red.

never used locktite on the body just the screws.

I use it on the screws, too. But I was thinking it might work on the body as well.

has the POI shifted?

I couldn't say as I've re-checked the zero many times during that time period.

Huh? Sorry that doesn't make sense to me? When you shoot it does the POI change?

John Barsness has recommended putting a strip of electrical tape between the ring surface and the scope body. It makes no difference which side gets the tape stickum. Then torque the ring screws to around 20" lbs, or whatever the manufacturer says.

Oh, you mean does it change within a shooting session? No.

I'll try the tape trick, thanks! And, I think I'll get a torque wrench, too.

Do your rings only have one screw on each side of the scope tube, or two? So is there four cap screws total, per ring?

I use the low hold Locktite mounting base to action, and cap screws to rings. And have had to disassemble them a year later, or more, and was able to get them apart. However all my cap screws use Torx heads, so I have a great deal of surface area of tool to fastener.

Options:

Try the tape trick
Use the Locktite
Yes, get a F.A.T. wrench no matter what.

If that doesn't fix it,

Lap those rings, or
Replace those rings with better rings.

There are rings on the market that if someone goes to lap them, they lose their warranty, becaust they were machined so well in the first place that they didn't need to be lapped.

There's just one screw on each side. These are the std. rings.

Had one that the scope shifted for sure on, not sure why and was years ago but the tape trick worked on it. That was on my first scoped rifle and scope. Scope was on that rifle over 15 years with the tape before I changed it out, never shifted or lost zero after putting the tape on.

You still have the food stand up on 206 on the weekends, if so and I make it out Saturday will swing by for some ribs and bring the fat wrench with if you want.

kmon1 - I think you have me confused with someone else, as I've never owned a food stand and don't even know where 206 is, but I appreciate the offer. I've already ordered a F.A.T. wrench off of Amazon.

Hey replied to that and was thinking Scruboak when I responded. Pain meds were just kicking in about that time.

Fat wrench is a good tool