Wood stove install question

I am going to install a wood stove/heater in my metal shop. The shop is not insulated. I want to run the chimney pipe through the wall and then up on the outside so I don't have to go through the roof. Thoughts and advice please. Pro's and cons of doing it this way? All help is appreciated.

Will work ok, just going to be harder to clean pipes with a 90 degree elbow. Which you are going to want to do regularly to prevent creasote (spelling)! Build up in pipes. Be nice if you could incorporate a clean out at elbo. Sure it could be done, just never have seen one. I agree, no holes in roof if possible! Just my

agree ... my wife's uncle and one of my best friends lost their homes to wood burning stove exhaust pipe fires due to build up of creosote. Instead of using 90° elbows, use 45° and clean regularly.

We had them in weekend cabins in the woods for years run that way. Remember in order to draft correctly you need to terminate the pipe above the crest of the roof.

I had to insulate the metal roof in my old shop after I added a wood burning heater. The roof would sweat so much that you would think it was raining inside.

Had a camphouse with them like that for over 20 years. Mud dobbers were by far a way bigger problem than any kind of other build up in the pipes.

Heat a 50 x 50 shop with one and run pipe thru wall and then up along outside.
Never had any problem with creosote but only burned very dry oak and mesquite in it.

My grandparents had A wood burner I their kitchen. The sove was on the inside wall with the pipe run across the ceiling to the outside wall. Grandpa said the extra pipe added more heat to the room. I still have that old Sears potbelly stove. This was back in 1953.

Have two stove pipes through the wall.

Periodically fill that stove full of bois d' arc. It'll burn out any creostote inside the pipe.

Did that one year, with it 20° outside. Stove full of bois'd arc, stove ticking inside the shop. Step outside and look at the top of the stack, and nothing but mirage was coming out, no smoke at all. That's whatcha call getting full burn.

I was just about to say ask JG, but again, he comes through. Hes a firefighter.

Get off the couch, put your hands on some things, figure them out, and maybe you'll learn something. Because clearly you cannot learn via someone telling you.

If you go w a 90, keep in mind you have to get a draft so mounting the top stack I wonder about I’m sure it’s been done but I’d like to see the mount

We have one in our home but it runs due north up thru roof and is mounted up there with a high temp rubber boot. Which seemed like a good way to me

I have done this now in three metal wall workshops, each time through the wall for the same reason you want to. Vintage woodstove to boot this last time around. Chimney goes up above the peak height. Draws like a champ...plenty of 'Bodark' [Osage Orange] around the place to burn during the cleanup at the end of each season. Bonus for woodworkers is it makes very nice tabletops, but it's very hard on blades and fasteners....First thing I cut on my sawmill was a huge Bodark limb with a crotch. Pic of the stove before any piping was added...I went out through the wall at the 5' mark with a 6" wall fitting.

Here's the stack...have two 90s...one inside and one outside with four guide wires on the stack outside...hasn't moved in three years of winds up to 60mph gusts.

Thanks for all the information. Finally got the ok from my insurance company to install it.

Old School. The one on the left was purchased in the early 70’s and could rock some heat. The one on the right was purchased in the late 90’s. Both have since been retired.

You can also buy a t for the 90° turn which has a clean out on it.

I went with the tee's instead of 90's and it worked out great for cleaning after each season. JM